09 RT-Any recommendations to rebuild final drive?

[Jeffrop]

Well, my FD is toast (lots of play at hub at 12 and 6, so assume this is trashed bearings) but no oil leaks visible. 62000 miles on the clock.  Gear Oil changes and driveshaft lube are done on schedule. 

New ones are $2700 (gulp). Not sure if I want to go the used route since the existing condition would be a complete unknown, unless there was some serious documentation.

 

Has anyone rebuilt the FD successfully?  Any shops or individuals you would recommend?  I live in the Atlanta area but would willing to ship to the right rebuilder.
Thanks in advance for any help and guidance.

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, Jeffrop said:

Well, my FD is toast (lots of play at hub at 12 and 6, so assume this is trashed bearings) but no oil leaks visible. 62000 miles on the clock.  Gear Oil changes and driveshaft lube are done on schedule. 

New ones are $2700 (gulp). Not sure if I want to go the used route since the existing condition would be a complete unknown, unless there was some serious documentation.

 

Has anyone rebuilt the FD successfully?  Any shops or individuals you would recommend?  I live in the Atlanta area but would willing to ship to the right rebuilder.
Thanks in advance for any help and guidance.

Morning  Jeffrop

 

How much play (measured  at the rim COLD)  do actually have? 

 

BMW spec is up to 1 mm of movement (cold final drive). 

 

In any case if you have excess play then probably all it needs is a new crown bearing & seal.  The bearing & seal replacement is easy but it's removing & re-installing the splined rear wheel flange that takes some specialized tools & expertise. 

 

Your  local BMW dealer has probably done a number of rear flange removals as that was part of the rear flange recall so they should have the proper flange heater & installation tools plus should be fairly practiced at doing it. 

[wallyging]

Anton Largiader in Charlottesville, VA, has an excellent reputation for rebuilding final drives. His website gives a good description of final drives and what can go wrong. I had him do a preemptive service on the FD on my 2004 R1150GS because oil analysis showed excessive amounts of aluminum and steel particles. If I remember correctly, he found the pinion bearing was loose on the shaft and replaced the shaft and bearing, and also replaced the big bearing and seal. He is very careful about shimming the cover correctly.

[Jeffrop]

DR-there is about 3.1mm of play measured at the 6 o’clock position.  I have an appt with local BMW dealer for 7/13 and will discuss the crown bearing issue with them.

 

Wally-thanks for recommendation.  Depending on dealer finding, may give Anton a call.

 

thanks!!

[dirtrider]

2 minutes ago, Jeffrop said:

DR-there is about 3.1mm of play measured at the 6 o’clock position.  I have an appt with local BMW dealer for 7/13 and will discuss the crown bearing issue with them.

 

Wally-thanks for recommendation.  Depending on dealer finding, may give Anton a call.

 

thanks!!

Morning Jeffrop

 

3.1mm of movement at the wheel rim is too much, sounds like a crown bearing issue. If you can feel a rough bearing sort of growl or abnormality in the foot pegs when rolling real slow the yo need to have it looked at fairly quickly.

 

On a smooth surface (parking lot or little used smooth road)  I usually run the motorcycle up to about 20 mph, then pull the clutch lever in & quickly shift into neutral, then flip the kill switch off to kill the engine, then coast to a stop. Listen for a bearing growl and pay attention to the foot pegs for a growl or buzz in the foot pegs as the motorcycle coasts slower & slower.

 

On some the bearing will just wear looser but still have decent balls, of others the bearing will become loose with pitting & spalling on the bearing balls & race groove. On the 1200 hexhead the bearing preload is not shimable like the earlier 1100 & 1150 motorcycles were.    

 

Yes, do talk it over with the dealer, did you have the wheel flange recall done? OR has the wheel flange recall been done? 

[Jeffrop]

Morning DR,

Yes definitely a growl at slow speeds, and can feel vibration in the pegs while coasting with engine off and in neutral.  First felt this a few days ago when I went out driveway and turned onto street (see FYI, below). Immediately thought this is not normal and turned around after a 0.1 mile ride😱. On center stand, and spinning wheel by hand, can also hear and feel this noise/grinding/rough rotation.
 

When I had the fuel pump recall done last year, the service dept did say all recalls had been done, so assume that included the flange recall but will verify with service on 7/13.

 

FYI-appointment was originally made for a diagnostic/error code for “brake failure” light staying on; always before, it would turn off after starting to roll.  Using your recommendations, checked fluid level (ok) and turned key on, no engine start, and used front brake only but rear wheel rotated freely.  Using rear brake pedal only, wheel stopped immediately. Once I get the error codes, will likely give ModuleMasters a call. 
 

As always, thanks for the help and advice

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Jeffrop said:

Morning DR,

Yes definitely a growl at slow speeds, and can feel vibration in the pegs while coasting with engine off and in neutral.  First felt this a few days ago when I went out driveway and turned onto street (see FYI, below). Immediately thought this is not normal and turned around after a 0.1 mile ride😱. On center stand, and spinning wheel by hand, can also hear and feel this noise/grinding/rough rotation.
 

When I had the fuel pump recall done last year, the service dept did say all recalls had been done, so assume that included the flange recall but will verify with service on 7/13.

 

FYI-appointment was originally made for a diagnostic/error code for “brake failure” light staying on; always before, it would turn off after starting to roll.  Using your recommendations, checked fluid level (ok) and turned key on, no engine start, and used front brake only but rear wheel rotated freely.  Using rear brake pedal only, wheel stopped immediately. Once I get the error codes, will likely give ModuleMasters a call. 
 

As always, thanks for the help and advice

Afternoon Jeffrop

 

That sure sounds like the crown bearing going out, that should be looked at as soon as possible or at least don't ride it far until it is looked at. 

 

On the brake problem,  that sounds like an internal pressure switch issue (not replaceable at home). But a fault code (dealer or GS-911) would give you a good idea on where to look.