Having Trouble Removing The #2 Oxygen Sensor 2012 R1200RT

[freetime2247]

Ok, need a little advise here! After completion of the annual service with the GS911 connected I got an O2 fault on the #2 cylinder. I ordered a new O2 sensor and a 22mm wrench to make the necessary swap. However, after removing the right side cowling I noticed that unfortunately the bolt holding my aftermarket right foot rest would not loosen. Since, I have been unable to remove this bolt I cannot remove the O2 sensor since there is not sufficient room for the wrench to fit over the sensor.

My next move is to disconnect the exhaust and lower so that I can gain enough clearance to get my wrench over the sensor.

Anyone every have a similar occurrence? Is there another way to gain access to the sensor without dropping the exhaust? Any ideas on how I might be able to remove to bolt holding the foot rest? Seems over the years its like its welded on. I'm assuming that it turns left to loosen. 

[Hosstage]

Can you get a vise grip on that bolt and wiggle back and forth to try to get it loose?

Edit: Looking the picture again it seems you may have tried that already. A little heat might help.

[freetime2247]

Haven't tried the heat yet.

[DakarTimm]

Respectfully ,put the WD40 back on the shelf . Kroil or P.B. Blaster is the type of fluid that is more suited to the task at hand . 

From here ,it appears the foot rest  bolt had a metric allen wrench used instead of a Torx wrench .It might be the other way around .

Either way ,I would focus on getting the bolt freed and replaced . Otherwise it's just another problem waiting for you down the road..so to speak 

Everyone seems to have their own favorites ,when it comes to screw extractors . 

While you are working on the stripped exhaust bolt ,keep dousing the O2 sensor with the oil pentnetrant .They work given time 

Edited June 9, 2023 by DakarTimm
wrong description

[freetime2247]

I'll try the penetrating oil. No exhaust nuts or bolts have been touched yet. However, the foot rest T30 in the picture is still frozen. 

[jdub53]

A good old fashioned impact driver along with heat and penetrating oil stands a good chance of breaking that bolt free.

 

https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/impact-driver-set/p/surebilt-impact-screwdriver-set-5-piece/529289_0_0?spps.s=2890&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:19489353547&&CATARGETID=120054150001289963&CADevice=m&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4ukBhAuEiwA0zQxk2Ww8yGG0zc9HtlceFwS3_kC8vzKF51uANl-OlvVHkBsHJ1rtq2oExoCzHUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I still use mine from the '70s when required, with good effect. Good luck.

[MikeB60]

Did you look a the function of the O2 sensor on the GS 911? Just because it threw a code dosent necessarily mean it's bad or that the sensor is the problem. 

[dirtrider]

23 hours ago, freetime2247 said:

Ok, need a little advise here! After completion of the annual service with the GS911 connected I got an O2 fault on the #2 cylinder. I ordered a new O2 sensor and a 22mm wrench to make the necessary swap. However, after removing the right side cowling I noticed that unfortunately the bolt holding my aftermarket right foot rest would not loosen. Since, I have been unable to remove this bolt I cannot remove the O2 sensor since there is not sufficient room for the wrench to fit over the sensor.

My next move is to disconnect the exhaust and lower so that I can gain enough clearance to get my wrench over the sensor.

Anyone every have a similar occurrence? Is there another way to gain access to the sensor without dropping the exhaust? Any ideas on how I might be able to remove to bolt holding the foot rest? Seems over the years its like its welded on. I'm assuming that it turns left to loosen. 

Morning freetime2247

 

Unless you can get that footplate bolt out you are probably going to have to work around it, or just drop the exhaust system. 

 

You are probably going to need heat & a hex (or torx) driver slightly larger than the seized bolt socket (drive it into the bolt head with a hammer) ,  or as Hosstage mentioned possibly a GOOD set of vise grip pliers (butcher pliers).

 

Forget about any penetrating lube helping as that seized bolt is blind on one end & sealed by being tight with a washer  on the other end so penetrating oil (no matter how good) can not get to the threads).  Just keep in mind that if penetrating oil was that good at penetrating sealed fasteners then why does it stay in the can & not pernitrate right through the container?????   Once you can break it free THEN penetrating oil can get in there to help but not with it still tight & sealed. 

 

Another thing that MIGHT work is to use a proper o2 sensor off-set socket, I can't tell from the pictures but it looks like a good offset o2 sensor socket might just sneak in between the foot plate & the o2 sensor. (might take a little grinding of one side of the offset socket). Those o2 sensor sockets are usually around $10.00- $15.00 at your local auto parts store. 

 

 

[freetime2247]

Well I was able to remove the O2 sensor. After many squirts of the WD40 and several days, it came right out. Unfortunately, I haven't been so lucky with the foot peg torx 50 bolt. I was able to loosen the bolt and move the foot peg assembly up and down which allowed enough room to access the O2 sensor. However, the bolt is striped and it won't budge with my vice grips. Next, I'll try a Irwin Bolt Extractor.  

[dirtrider]

30 minutes ago, freetime2247 said:

Well I was able to remove the O2 sensor. After many squirts of the WD40 and several days, it came right out. Unfortunately, I haven't been so lucky with the foot peg torx 50 bolt. I was able to loosen the bolt and move the foot peg assembly up and down which allowed enough room to access the O2 sensor. However, the bolt is striped and it won't budge with my vice grips. Next, I'll try a Irwin Bolt Extractor.  

Morning freetime2247

 

If you can't budge it with vise grips then be EXTREMELY careful using a Irwin Bolt Extractor. Those extractors are not meant for seized bolts as they are very brittle so snap off easily (THEN, you REALLY have problems).  

 

Best way is to weld a nut on that seized bolt (the welding heat & the nut usually allows easy extraction) but another method is to just drill the bolt head off then remove the foot plate,  you can then possibly use some penetrating oil on the exposed bolt with thread access. Once you heat the bolt, that expands the bolt & surrounding area, so spraying penetrating oil on while it is cooling allows a little of the penetrating oil to be pulled in due to the temperature change as it is cooling. 

 

Of ALL the removal options available, personally I would put  a Irwin Bolt Extractor 10 places below the bottom of the list. 

 

If twisting on that full sized bolt & the larger diameter bolt head didn't budge it then why in the world would a smaller diameter very brittle screw extractor work????????

 

If you manage to break that screw extractor off (most likely you will) then about your only option is welding a washer/nut on,  or blowing the broken hardened screw extractor out with very precise torch work. 

[Hosstage]

If it still moves a bit you could try some penetrating oil, screw it in and out, more oil, keep trying to wiggle it in and out. But as mentioned by dr, your next move may be welding a nut on it. If it breaks, it then becomes a drill and tap exercise, still better than breaking off that extractor in it.

[freetime2247]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning freetime2247

 

If you can't budge it with vise grips then be EXTREMELY careful using a Irwin Bolt Extractor. Those extractors are not meant for seized bolts as they are very brittle so snap off easily (THEN, you REALLY have problems).  

 

Best way is to weld a nut on that seized bolt (the welding heat & the nut usually allows easy extraction) but another method is to just drill the bolt head off then remove the foot plate,  you can then possibly use some penetrating oil on the exposed bolt with thread access. Once you heat the bolt, that expands the bolt & surrounding area, so spraying penetrating oil on while it is cooling allows a little of the penetrating oil to be pulled in due to the temperature change as it is cooling. 

 

Of ALL the removal options available, personally I would put  a Irwin Bolt Extractor 10 places below the bottom of the list. 

 

If twisting on that full sized bolt & the larger diameter bolt head didn't budge it then why in the world would a smaller diameter very brittle screw extractor work????????

 

If you manage to break that screw extractor off (most likely you will) then about your only option is welding a washer/nut on,  or blowing the broken hardened screw extractor out with very precise torch work. 

 I was going to use one of these instead of drilling.

[dirtrider]

2 minutes ago, freetime2247 said:

 I was going to use one of these instead of drilling.

Afternoon freetime2247

 

That looks to be for hex-head bolts, I don't see how that would work on a cap-head bolt?