Fixing sun faded luggage rack mounts

[Kilohertz]

Hello all,

 

Finally warm enough to get the bikes out for the summer and I am ready to go for my first ride today on the R1100S. I waxed it all and checked all fluids etc. but in my cosmetic work, noticed that the saddle bag mounts have gone white over the winter.  They almost look like Fiberglas/composite but not sure. Just wondering what you recommend for cleaning/refinishing them to look black again?  Could it be as simple as a coat of ArmourAll or ? (which I haven't owned for years)

 

Cheers

 

[TEWKS]

I’ve never tried this but he makes it look easy. 
 

Probably a safer option. 

 

[Skywagon]

I use this.  If it doesn't get me where I want, I use ATF....yep...automatic transmission fluid - an old vinyl top cure from the 70's  The meguiars works pretty darn good.  Just make sure you have some clean cloths to wipe it in really hard.

 

[Kilohertz]

Thanks guys,

 

Cool, lots of options. That heat gun trick looks like a great idea but I'd have to remove the racks first, wouldn't want to melt stuff around it. I'll try ATF first on a small spot as I have it in the shop, if not trip to town for one of the "modern" products.

 

Thanks!

 

cheers

[9Mary7]

Vaseline works well too.

[jacksdad63]

I've tried just about every trick thought of, I used to own a used car sales business and faded black and grey plastics were a nightmare!

Most tricks and tips just didn't work, or quickly returned to the original worn out look. Heat is a classic, looks good for 5 minutes, trick. The fading or break-down goes deep into the material, you apply lots of heat and all looks good...but it soon breaks down, the 'cure' is superficial, nothing more. 

Same with every sort of oil, from ATF to used engine oil...very temporary. I then tried the most expensive spray on stuff, that actually dissolved the surface and did work, but after a few weeks...the damage worked back through the new surface.

In my experience, the best thing to use is dye. Don't try to sand off the old surface, you'll just make a mess, simply pile on that black/grey dye! Clean the part with IPA, apply several coats then buff or polish following the product instructions. You will need to re-apply every few weeks but its the best solution I've found, after 40 years of trying 

[TEWKS]

A good body shop will know enough to put a flex additive into a nice gloss black spray job. I bet that would last a couple of years. 

[Hosstage]

2 minutes ago, TEWKS said:

A good body shop will know enough to put a flex additive into a nice gloss black spray job. I bet that would last a couple of years. 

Yes, but the ones that are fading are just molded plastic with the color molded into the plastic, no paint like color match bumpers.

[dirtrider]

37 minutes ago, Hosstage said:

Yes, but the ones that are fading are just molded plastic with the color molded into the plastic, no paint like color match bumpers.

Afternoon,

 

Painting using a flex agent (flex agent might not be be needed on that rigid part) that would definitely make it look decent, but that is a lot of prep work & the plastic prep + primer + paint + painter is very expensive. Probably a lot more than a good used rack form E-Bay.

 

The dying isn't a bad idea but I have dyed a lot of plastic parts (no motorcycle parts though) & getting an even color with a smooth look is not easy, especially if the part needs sanding or other prep as that changes the way the dye is absorbed into the plastic in those areas (dying works fairly decent on small parts with an even surface). I usually dye plastic in boiling water with the dye in the boiling water (I typically use Ritt dye) but some light colors do not come out looking very good  & black looks more gray (blackish/brownish/gray).

 

E-Bay is probably the best option if price is an issue__  Click here >>>>>>>>             https://www.ebay.com/itm/234539921231?epid=1111821215&hash=item369bab2f4f:g:XB0AAOSw9bRidAkX&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0E3fTXAh60T%2BsTp8aHiLaB2sJU4JDYgv4LslfI9DIOXkxJ2%2B%2FaU3KkfmCi1heHRhXYT%2B2udv60DyvFzMCIFRR1DSAl1JevJcIxxKaqpxppqK3Q0EdQm3p5KxSTJB3IXoNA%2F86Nngs86h%2BCI2dPw70mu3EznAAZq0FhfjPjHB7qayys463F83PWBlGoryivE%2BLSHpIRigZfX8%2FN5uUc2x2aE6vznFq5ZwUMQHRSE5pRMCg3S13gdqyIUkxlBo4IE81X4GaxIvGnQ0H8KwqQjtfPU%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8bljbeOYg

 

 

[Hosstage]

I wouldn't have a problem trying to rattle can it. What's the worst that can happen? It looks like hell? A little primer, a little paint. Prep work consists of wiping off the dust and fingerprints with a dry rag. Alcohol rag if you want to get fancy.

5 hours ago, TEWKS said:

A good body shop will know enough to put a flex additive into a nice gloss black spray job. I bet that would last a couple of years. 

I see now that's what you were getting at, painting the fade.

[Kilohertz]

Thanks for all the excellent ideas guys, I tried rubbing some ATF on it yesterday and the one spot that I applied it to looks good it’s back to black. I’ll leave it for a week or so and see what happens if I’m going to paint it I don’t want to have the whole thing covered in oil ha ha.
 

cheers