2014 RTW 100,000 mile service

[hefy_jefy]

My 2014 RTW is coming up for its 100,000 mile service.  All servicing apart from the initial 600 and 6,000 has been done by me, including brake flushes.  Very few problems, couple of batteries, three low beam bulbs(!) a clutch switch and a right fork seal.  The valve clearances did need some adjustment at 12,000 miles but since then they haven't changed. I have a GS911 and at each service I log everything from cold start to radiator fans starting, I see no signifacnyt differences between the data from the bike at 12,000 miles and the latest logged data.  My basic question is whether there are some extra items that I should look at?

 

1. The engine always sounded clattery even when new (Ted Porter assured me it was OK) and I have a feeling it might be just a bit more clattery now.

2. I have never touched the valve timing and since I think the guys at BMW probably do a pretty good job I don't see any reason to mess with that?

3. I am rather old (74) so I gave up hard riding some years ago, but I still do long rides, I doubt I would notice if there was anything wrong with the suspension but I do load the bike down on a long run.

4. Would a dose of Techron be a good idea? (for the bike, not me)

 

I want to do at least one more ride to Alaska,

Any advice is most welcome.

Geoff

[Skywagon]

I have a 2014 bought new and the 8th one in USA. I am thrilled to see your report at 100k/miles. I’m at 30k and the bike still feels new. Techron will help clean injectors and fuel system, but if you’ve been using good gas and no issues.. probably not necessary. If you use it follow specs. I use Chevron and Texaco gas so Techron is in my fuel. 

[Dave_in_TX]

Most long life antifreeze is good for five years or 100k miles so even if it isn't a listed item, it's due for replacement.

[Cap]

I think the spec for the brake fluid has changed since you bought your moto... the latest recommendation is to use LV (low viscosity) DOT 4 fluid. 

 

If you have been following the factory service procedures, you may never have dropped your final drive to inspect your rear CV joint.  Many of us will inspect and re-lube that joint every 12k or so.  I think that at 100k, you might want to pull the driveshaft completely, and inspect and lube both ends.  That requires fussing with the forward boot, which means you will need to replace the proprietary zip-tie.  I would be very interested to see a picture of your CV joints after 100k miles, if you have never serviced them.  If you haven't done so already, check out the Boxflyer YouTube channel for his excellent videos on the full service procedure.

 

With respect to cam timing, I have yet to see a bike that was set properly after about 10k miles.  I think that there is some initial wear during the first few thousand miles, and the cams shift somewhat. 

 

With respect to "clattering,"  yes they all do that, sir.   However, I find that if I set my valves near the tight spec, the engine runs smoother and with less clattering.

 

Cap

[hefy_jefy]

Thanks everyone, the service is due in about 3,000 miles and I will report back.  Seems the coolant change and the final drive grease might be good.  Although that final drive spline while it might not look too good doesn't actually slide during normal operation.  But cleaning the whole accordion boot area and checking the UJ sems a good idea.

[ADulay]

Your reading on the valves is pretty close to what I had on my 2014RT when it went over 100,000 miles.

 

I would do the 6000 mile oil changes but had the dealer do the 12,000 mile maintenance per se.

 

I always asked and looked at the valves and they NEVER needed to be touched. 

 

As I was one of the first to get the model and a relatively high mileage rider they used my bike (and one other) to basically set the base as to what to look for in other RTs and the like coming on down the road for maintenance.

 

The bike got taken out by a white mini-van at a stop sign.   Wanted to repair the bike but the damage was extensive so I got the next bike that came into the dealership last year.

 

The "hard sell" went like this. . . . . .

 

Dealer: "Andy, I've got two bikes coming in tomorrow.  One black, one white."

 

Andy: "I'll take the white one."

 

And that's how you buy a new bike!

 

 

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[hefy_jefy]

On 5/15/2023 at 6:04 AM, Cap said:

I think the spec for the brake fluid has changed since you bought your moto... the latest recommendation is to use LV (low viscosity) DOT 4 fluid. 

 

If you have been following the factory service procedures, you may never have dropped your final drive to inspect your rear CV joint.  Many of us will inspect and re-lube that joint every 12k or so.  I think that at 100k, you might want to pull the driveshaft completely, and inspect and lube both ends.  That requires fussing with the forward boot, which means you will need to replace the proprietary zip-tie.  I would be very interested to see a picture of your CV joints after 100k miles, if you have never serviced them.  If you haven't done so already, check out the Boxflyer YouTube channel for his excellent videos on the full service procedure.

 

With respect to cam timing, I have yet to see a bike that was set properly after about 10k miles.  I think that there is some initial wear during the first few thousand miles, and the cams shift somewhat. 

 

With respect to "clattering,"  yes they all do that, sir.   However, I find that if I set my valves near the tight spec, the engine runs smoother and with less clattering.

 

Cap

So I bit the bullet and took a look at the CV joints.  I have to say that despite the excellent video by Boxflyer it was a battle, I also had the issue of the drive shaft pulling out of the gearbox, you MUST push that back before you can drop the final drive.  I may have to replace the rubber "accordion" had to make a wooden tool to help push back the embedded plastic tags.  After all that the actual splines were fine (see attached).  My advice is that unless you have done a lot of off road stuff or ridden in wet (flooded) conditions this job may not be worth the effort.  Different of course if you are a "deep mud" rider on a GS!!!

Geoff

[Stiggy]

Here's another vote for the value of a cam timing check after 12,000 miles (or more.) My 2017 was (IMO) way out of spec (stretched chains?) and once reset, the feel of the motorcycle was quite noticeable. Smoother and more responsive I believe..

(If it's made on an assembly line, who knows how close to 'dead on' a line worker is going to put the cam timing anyway? Close enough?)

[hefy_jefy]

I will be looking at that at the valve timing at next service, still have a couple of thousand to go.  This, and the coolant check was a "extra" since no regular (6,000 or 12,000) BMW service calls for them.