Heated grips replacements

[jacksdad63]

Hi, my 1998 1100RT has the usual broken RH heated grip.

Can I buy an aftermarket set such as Oxford touring, and just fit both grips to the original brown/black feeds? I don't need the multi-level outputs these replacement kits offer, some have 6 temperatures...I'd never tell the difference!

Can the standard 50 and 100% switch work with the non standard types? I'd assume they will work and just have 2 heat outputs, which is all I'll ever need, but I have a niggling thought that there may be some sort of electronic gadgetry waiting to destroy the new grips. 

Anyone done this, if so what make of grips were fitted?

Thanks, Mike

 

[Miguel!]

Amazingly, my 2001 R1100RT didn't come with heated grips or the switch (hard to believe it was optional!). I was able to find the OEM 2-position switch and OEM heated-grips grips on eBay. It took me a few weeks to figure out the wiring but all the connectors and wires were on the bike already even tho the grips and switch were not.  I posted about my heated grip adventures on this forum if you need it. It was a bit tricky. A long-time independent oilhead mechanic told me to get the OEM grips because his impression was that most of the after market grips were not nearly as warm. I've no regrets using the OEM grips. I just looked a there are OEM grips on eBay. 

 

Best

Miguel

[jacksdad63]

The RH heated grip/element is available from BMW, part # 61312315222 

l

list price £122

I get a bit of trade discount but its still expensive, a full aftermarket touring kit is around £60, so relacing both grips and splicing them into the bikes wiring seems the best option. 

Surely the new ones will work, they will just get one of two different voltage to get the two heat settings?

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, jacksdad63 said:

Hi, my 1998 1100RT has the usual broken RH heated grip.

Can I buy an aftermarket set such as Oxford touring, and just fit both grips to the original brown/black feeds? I don't need the multi-level outputs these replacement kits offer, some have 6 temperatures...I'd never tell the difference!

Can the standard 50 and 100% switch work with the non standard types? I'd assume they will work and just have 2 heat outputs, which is all I'll ever need, but I have a niggling thought that there may be some sort of electronic gadgetry waiting to destroy the new grips. 

Anyone done this, if so what make of grips were fitted?

Thanks, Mike

 

Morning Mike

 

A can't exactly answer your question but can help explain it in more detail. 

 

The stock heated grips have a 3 position switch (just a simple switch that selects different output positions. One position is off, one position selects direct 12v (solid wire)  to the grip heaters, the last position selects a separate  (1.9 ohm resistor wire) between the switch & the grip heaters. That resistor wire is what gives you the partial grip heating. 

 

So an aftermarket grip heater will work at 100% on high, so if it's high (full 12v) heat output somewhat matches the stock grip heater then it will feel the same on high. 

 

On the low setting, that depends, as the resistance & heat output of the aftermarket heated grip. It might not match the OEM heated grip due to a load difference on that factory resistor wire.  

 

You also need to make sure that any aftermarket grip heaters match your BMW factory throttle tube  diameter. 

 

One other note: you might look at your original grip heater as it might just have a broken wire going to the grip heater. If it is broken in an accessable place you can simply re-solder it.  

[jacksdad63]

Thanks DR, you've just explained exactly what I was getting at!

I'm halfway through fixing the original grip, I remember seeing the brown wire poking out of the handlebar when I fitted the 'cruise control' from my old K1100 (thats just a screw that fits onto the switch housing, and is a friction stop against the throttle tube, straight swap).

I've peeled back the rubber grip and found the black wire so now I just need to solder on new wires and re-route back through the handlebar.

The wires don't go out there, they fit in the slotted bit.

The switch is only working in the upper position but I'm getting 12.8V at the wires so I'm assuming thats full power,  bothe grips get nice and warm so I'm happy!

I'll test the switch when I get round to it, maybe replace it if its faulty 

[dirtrider]

27 minutes ago, jacksdad63 said:

Thanks DR, you've just explained exactly what I was getting at!

I'm halfway through fixing the original grip, I remember seeing the brown wire poking out of the handlebar when I fitted the 'cruise control' from my old K1100 (thats just a screw that fits onto the switch housing, and is a friction stop against the throttle tube, straight swap).

I've peeled back the rubber grip and found the black wire so now I just need to solder on new wires and re-route back through the handlebar.

The wires don't go out there, they fit in the slotted bit.

The switch is only working in the upper position but I'm getting 12.8V at the wires so I'm assuming thats full power,  bothe grips get nice and warm so I'm happy!

I'll test the switch when I get round to it, maybe replace it if its faulty 

Afternoon Mike

 

The only way you can get a meaningful voltage measurement is with a grip load on the circuits.  Open circuit on both high & low will probably measure about the same voltage because your meter doesn't put enough load on the circuit to effect the resistance.   

 

 

[jacksdad63]

The upper switch position is 100%, that's working, both grips warmed up really quickly. The lower position is 50%, the wiring diagram for the switch shows a feed from fuse F7, and 2x outs, one black and one orange, Thats what I can see anyway! I'm not the best at electrickery....

I'd expect to see a resistor or suchlike on the 50% side but no, unless its inside the switch? I've got the highest setting working now so I'm happy, didn't cost me a penny!

If I find a cheap switch I'll try swapping it, got a few months before heated grips will be needed I hope 

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, jacksdad63 said:

The upper switch position is 100%, that's working, both grips warmed up really quickly. The lower position is 50%, the wiring diagram for the switch shows a feed from fuse F7, and 2x outs, one black and one orange, Thats what I can see anyway! I'm not the best at electrickery....

I'd expect to see a resistor or suchlike on the 50% side but no, unless its inside the switch? I've got the highest setting working now so I'm happy, didn't cost me a penny!

If I find a cheap switch I'll try swapping it, got a few months before heated grips will be needed I hope 

Morning Mike

 

That orange wire is a 1.9 ohm resistor wire, it parallels the black wire. The switch connects 12v to either the black wire for High (100%), or connects 12v to the orange resistor wire for Low (about 60%).  

 

[jacksdad63]

Most likely the switch then? I'll have to remove the dash inner again then! Just removed to swap the 12V power socket to a marine cig lighter type, easy enough to do.

Thanks again D.R. 

[dirtrider]

19 minutes ago, jacksdad63 said:

Most likely the switch then? I'll have to remove the dash inner again then! Just removed to swap the 12V power socket to a marine cig lighter type, easy enough to do.

Thanks again D.R. 

Morning Mike

 

Or the orange wire.

 

With the switch on high see if you have voltage 10v-12v on the orange wire AT THE SWITCH, if not then suspect a broken or compromised orange resistor wire between the switch & the grip-end splice of the orange & black wires. 

[jacksdad63]

I'll get it off and test it first, one day! Just got the starter motor off, going to have a play with it. Its pouring rain and hot like the tropics, awful riding weather

[dirtrider]

23 minutes ago, jacksdad63 said:

I'll get it off and test it first, one day! Just got the starter motor off, going to have a play with it. Its pouring rain and hot like the tropics, awful riding weather

Moring Mike

 

On a jammed starter, in a lot of cases it is the starter drive metal shield that comes loose & that can stop the starter from working. 

 

 

[jacksdad63]

Thanks again,  didn't find anything that would cause the throw out to stick, it did it just the one time so maybe was just a bit dry. 

I did find the loose magnet though and apart from the problem with the (non-genuine brand) brush retaining spring, was a very easy job, much more so than any other bike I've ever owned/worked on! Only done a few hundred miles but loving the ride position, and the weather protection as its rained almost nonstop since buying, bad even for northern England!

Bike is still misfiring at 2-3000rpm but I'm waiting for the injector upgrade kit before I get back with more cries for help....