R1100RT won't start in gear

[jacksdad63]

Hi again, just got on the road after giving my RT a full service and front brake rebuild.

I disconnected the side stand cut out the day I got the bike, just cut and joined the 2 wires coming from the side stand switch. Bike started in first gear no problems.

My driveway is sloping a little so I leave the bike in gear then just pull in the clutch to restart, but today it won't start unless in neutral. Must be the clutch lever cutout switch: can I just cut and join the 2 wires again? 

Note...I'm 60 now and have always had bikes with no such 'safety' switches fitted! I can't recall starting a bike in gear, we just knew to check for that green neutral light every time, plus I automatically pull in the clutch lever every time I start the bike 

For me, one less part to fail is a good move so I'd rather bypass it, if not I'll have to replace it I guess?

Thanks again, Mike  

[jacksdad63]

I've just looked up the part. Switch 61311459565, just the switch...£60.69  

 

I think a delete job will be needed...

[szurszewski]

4 hours ago, jacksdad63 said:

can I just cut and join the 2 wires again? 

yes - doing that will eliminate the switch from controlling the circuit. of course, you might die because of this (or at least maybe tip the bike over?), but, as you say, you haven't died yet so as long as you keep paying attention this probably won't be the thing that kills you. 

[Hosstage]

We survived just fine with no safety switches for many years, and that was when we were young and dumb. My current bikes never had safety switches, from the factory. Neither has been on the ground yet.

I'm pretty sure Jacksdad will be just fine. He's a rebel!

[Hosstage]

1 hour ago, szurszewski said:

yes - doing that will eliminate the switch from controlling the circuit. of course, you might die because of this (or at least maybe tip the bike over?), but, as you say, you haven't died yet so as long as you keep paying attention this probably won't be the thing that kills you. 

Wait, more sarcasm? I missed it the first time! 🙂

[Jim Moore]

Yep. two yellow (IIRC) wires in a sheath. Cut 'em, strip 'em, and twist 'em together. Every oilhead I've ever owned has ended up with this mod.

[jacksdad63]

Done! I'm sure I'll survive, thanks for your kind concerns all the same  

I've just always depressed/pulled in/operated any clutch control on anything I've operated, just the way we were taught all those years ago: in the Dark Ages (or 1970's even) these idiot protectors just didn't exist, so I guess thats why I'm still here 

[szurszewski]

10 hours ago, Hosstage said:

Wait, more sarcasm? I missed it the first time! 🙂

 

Oh man - this is tough! I'm not actually sure if that counts as sarcasm. The *tone* was certainly tongue in cheek, but factually the words are all true - it certainly *could* kill someone, but so could, you know, riding a motorcycle. Hey - maybe someday the bike builders will still make and sell bikes but there will be a safety device that simply prevents us from riding them. (Perhaps that's was Lucas was trying to do back in the day.)

[Hosstage]

I know a few people over the years that have hit the starter while the bike is in gear and it lurched forward into the garage wall, denting up the front fender.

Like jacksdad I always pull my clutch handle when starting, unless I am absolutely sure it is in neutral. Even then, I don't 100% trust it and usually pull the brake handle when starting, just in case.

I have a friend that went to start his HD, standing next to it, hits the button, the motor caught instantly and the bike took off dragging the side stand, as they lock when deployed on Harleys until lifted off the stand. He immediately did a couple of hop steps and jumped on it like John Wayne hopping on a running horse. He about had a heart attack but got it under control. He brought it back around and his little nephew said it was the coolest thing he'd ever seen.

Uh, yeah, I meant to do that...

[jacksdad63]

Today I thought I'd oil the clutch cable, it looked a bit dry. You cannot just pull the lever in and disconnect the cable like a normal (Japanese) bike..oh no, the cable end is slotted instead, so I pulled the cable a bit and the end came off. Gave the cable lots of light oil, then went to reconnect, but...the cable didn't reach through the clutch lever mount any more. So I thought I'd pull it to operate the clutch, grab cable inner with pliers and feed back through and refit the cable end/drum bit. 

Pulled on the cable and out came about 6 inches of inner...yes, its disconnected itself from the other end. Then I tried to move the bike, its on the main stand and due to the uneven ground, so are both wheels. And its now stuck in first gear and I can't push it off the stand....

[szurszewski]

Those cables aren't really meant to be lubed - they sheath is teflon lined and some lubes/oils can make that lining swell and restrict the cable. You should keep the barrel at the lever end lightly lubed so that it can rotate freely in the mount and not flex the very end of the cable. 

 

It's possible to get to the other end of the cable without removing any/many parts of the bike, but it's a bit of trick.  When you say main stand, do you mean the center stand? Like, both wheels are not on the ground? You should be able to rock the bike, or the rear wheel if you are on the center stand, while pulling up on the shift lever and get the bike back into neutral. 

 

 

[jacksdad63]

Hi, thanks for the comments, I got the bike into nuetral and movwed, them refitting the cable end was easy, just had to remove the side fairing. 

The cable isn't lined, after 25 years its likely been replaced a few times, this one is a pattern part no doubt: and the clutch is now much lighter after being oiled. You can oil teflon lined cables but must use the correct oil, I'd imagine the stuff sold specifically as bike cable lube will be safe.

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, jacksdad63 said:

Hi, thanks for the comments, I got the bike into nuetral and movwed, them refitting the cable end was easy, just had to remove the side fairing. 

The cable isn't lined, after 25 years its likely been replaced a few times, this one is a pattern part no doubt: and the clutch is now much lighter after being oiled. You can oil teflon lined cables but must use the correct oil, I'd imagine the stuff sold specifically as bike cable lube will be safe.

Evening   jacksdad63

 

If the clutch cable is a BMW OEM cable it then is lined, some sort of teflon or nylon.

 

Do not use any cable lubricant that uses a petroleum type carrier as that will eventually soften the liner & cause the cable to drag. 

 

Using oil or cable lube will make it feel smoother (for a little while until the liner gets soft).

 

I typically use the older Tri-Flow with  Teflon but that is becoming very  difficult to find as the new Tri-Flow is different but still WAY/WAY better for the cable liner than oil or cable lube. 

 

If you have already oiled the cable then you can just live with that until the cable gets ratty feeling again then replace the cable, or I have had some luck with spraying WD-40 into the top of the cable using a rubber hose to seal to the outer casing  (I use a couple of different size rubber hose pieces pushed together to get it to clear the cable barrel. Then once flushed thoroughly blow the cable out with moderate compressed air to dry it.

 

Then once dry inside flush it again with Tri-Flow. The Tri-flow (especially the older with Teflon) will really smooth the clutch pull out & protect the cable liner.