Fuel tank pump filter rebuild, review, observations, and questions

[gmcjetpilot]

REF Pic Below (new stuff on left old right)

 

I bought the beamer boneyard tank fuel pump/ filter hose kit. It comes with nylon hoses. I'm will use those not 30R10. Apparently this was what is used on 2005 and later BMW's? Do they have good service in history? They provide 4 pieces: 2 long accordion tubes and 2 short pieces. The short pieces are very stiff and require heat I assume to get on the nipples. Any comments or experience with these? Beemer BY says goid service history.

 

Some of the plating has worn off the backing plate, especially where the O-ring goes and also where the hoses slip on. I'm gonna remove the corrosion but is there anything else I can do, corrosion prevention, paint?

 

Comment: I rebuilt this 7 years ago when I had a fuel tank leak around the O ring. There was a horror story going on with the hoses and wiring so I replace those. Wiring came out great. Soldered on aircraft grade mil spec tefel insulated wire. The hoses are OK except vent hoses. The fuel lines I installed 7yrs ago wete 30R10 with stainless steel "U-turn". See picture below. If I did not have the nylon I'd get more 30R10. It's not that expensive in that size. However going to use what kit has.

 

"U" turn tube, stainless steel DIY, pretty proud of it. Of course stainless steel holds up well. The downside is you've got 2 extra connections & 2 extra clamps. Does that accordion nylon tube work?

 

REVIEW: The beamer boneyard fuel pump / filter / hose kit is good, at about a 180 bucks. If you went ala-cart on all that stuff you might be able to save a few bucks, might not. BMW pump price is too much. I needed everything it comes with, O rings, hoses, clamps, pump, filter. PLUS pump vibration damper and sleeve. The pump rubber/plastic damper was GONE. Literally sitting in bottom of my tank in chunks, disintegraI'd. I needed every piece in this kit no waste. Also clamps fit smaller nylon fuel lines due to thinner wall thickness. RECOMMEND.

 

NOTE: Vent tubes do not come with the Beemer BY kit. Cheapest was $56 at local BMW dealer spl order, for 1 meter to make 2 tubes, just. O bought it there. $62 with tax. They cut it long. I got over a meter length. 1M = 39 inches and got about 43".  Fortunately they gave me more. The Min length for vent tubes by my calculations / experience is 19.5 inch. This provided min slack for removal. An extra inch or 2 is nice. There is a joke there bit I shall refrain.

TYGON vent tube. I put those on 7 years ago and they were still intact. However they were as stiff as a board and getting them off required me to cut them. You could flex them and straighten a little but not much. Now that I know nylon might work could I use them for vent tubes? Anyone source this tube in 5mm, use for vent with success? It may be too stiff, not suitable for the vent tubes that have to snake around the tank. I bet people delete all that stuff, and vent direct from filler vent. You would have to be cautious and under fill.

[gmcjetpilot]

The new pump to fuel outlet nipple is 1/4" longer.

 

How do you get hose on?. The supplied tube is crazy stiff and also does not easily slide on. It needs to be heated. 

 

The bottom of pump does not slide in and needs to drop in. 

 

Help?

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, gmcjetpilot said:

The new pump to fuel outlet nipple is 1/4" longer.

 

How do you get hose on?. The supplied tube is crazy stiff and also does not easily slide on. It needs to be heated. 

 

The bottom of pump does not slide in and needs to drop in. 

 

Help?

Evening   gmcjetpilot

 

Personally I don't use that convoluted plastic hose in the BMW fuel tanks as I use the OEM submersible whenever possible. 

 

You will probably have to shorten one or both legs of that  convoluted plastic hose to get a good bend with proper clearance. 

 

Usually when I use that type of plastic convoluted plastic hose I dip the end that I'm installing in boiling water as that softens it & allow easier installation.  

[gmcjetpilot]

On 4/20/2023 at 5:05 PM, dirtrider said:

Evening   gmcjetpilot

Personally I don't use that convoluted plastic hose in the BMW fuel tanks as I use the OEM submersible whenever possible. 

 EDIT I got it and I used all the nylon stuff that came with the kit. For the U-turn I could use my stainless steel piece but I didn't have any hoes that fitted it's a little bit bigger diameter. So I used the convoluted tube and it seems to work OK. The problem I had with the fuel pump I solved by cutting the tube short so I could slide it up and get the pump in. I use the little gas as lubricant. It was not too bad sliding it down over pump nipple. Mount all this in tank soon.. I hope I get vent lines correct. Anyone have diagram?

[King Herald]

9 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

 EDIT I got it and I used all the nylon stuff that came with the kit. For the U-turn I could use my stainless steel piece but I didn't have any hoes that fitted it's a little bit bigger diameter. So I used the convoluted tube and it seems to work OK. The problem I had with the fuel pump I solved by cutting the tube short so I could slide it up and get the pump in. I use the little gas as lubricant. It was not too bad sliding it down over pump nipple. Mount all this in tank soon.. I hope I get vent lines correct. Anyone have diagram?

 

I don't think the vent lines orientation matters as they both go out the bottom to fresh air.

I've just ordered the materials to do my in tank stuff, but I forgot to order the U tube rubber, so I may externally mount the fuel filter. It's something I've thought about in the past. 

 

Gives a little more fuel capacity too.

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

 I hope I get vent lines correct. Anyone have diagram?

Morning gmcjetpilot

 

If you still have the factory Evap can then the vent/ fuel ring hose routing is very important as you don't want the fuel-filler-ring water draining into to Evap canister.

 

If you don't have the factory Evap can installed (Evap can removed) then hose routing doesn't really matter as they both exit to atmosphere behind the riders R/H foot peg,   -- BUT! -- The pass-through fitting going through the fuel pump pass-thorough plate for the filler cap drain will probably be corroded inside due to the moisture entering & sitting in that fitting.  So typically I hook the actual tank VENT hoses to the least corroded pass-through fitting & hook the filler-cap-drain hoses to the most corroded pass-through fitting (after verifying that pass-through fitting is open & not corroded shut)

[gmcjetpilot]

On 4/22/2023 at 5:29 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning gmcjetpilot

 

If you still have the factory Evap can then the vent/ fuel ring hose routing is very important as you don't want the fuel-filler-ring water draining into to Evap canister.  YES I DO HAVE CAN

 

 [SNIP]  -- BUT! -- The pass-through fitting going through the fuel pump pass-thorough plate for the filler cap drain will probably be corroded inside due to the moisture entering & sitting in that fitting.  So typically I hook the actual tank VENT hoses to the least corroded pass-through fitting & hook the filler-cap-drain hoses to the most corroded pass-through fitting (after verifying that pass-through fitting is open & not corroded shut)  GOOD ADVICE SEE NOTE BELOW

My vent line pass throughs are corrode,  but not too badly. I am glad you all mentioned it. I noticed corrosion and it is typical / normal (not good just normal).  I' gave them extra attention, clean inside & out, inspect and squirt of WD40 inside tubes. I am going to just go stock for now leave the can. If the vent starts to leak.... YIKES...   

 

I just found out the two vent/drain lines outside tank, on their way to the charcoal can, along frame rail, hose with "X" is vent  (Tank Vant/Dran/Fuel Lines ). Everyone knew that I am sure. I didn't. Found thread circa 2019 below. A BMW Sport Touring  member "dirtrider" has great info. Hummm, Thank you, and everyone, 

 

I am going into the shop today. Fingers crossed I'll get "Fritz" (yes named bike) running soon. No rush at this point. I will leave the fairings off to clean it.  I still have to install new brake lines and pads, bleed and flush. First get tank on, fuel, get him running. 

 

 

NOTE WHERE DOES ALL THE FUEL TANK HARDWARE & OTHER HAEDWARE GO TO RETIRE?  Rear single asymmetric mount of tank on frame has 6 or 7 parts:  Bolt, nut, flanged rubber bushing, two flanged metal sleeve inserts, rubber washer. (1 ) of the (2) flanged metal sleeves was missing along with rubber washer? Hummm. Talking to a friend and BMW bike owner, he had similar experience of parts running away. Call to local BMW bike store had replacement parts by end of week with  $25 less in wallet. Timing mark cover (plastic "snap in" plug / cap ) was missing when I did valves. New genuine $8 BMW plastic cap problem solved. Putting that timing cap on is a pain. 

 

QUESTION I want to know. There must be a place where all the missing parts go to hang out? Is my tank hardware and timing cover having a party somewhere? Ha ha

 

[dirtrider]

Quote

 I am going to just go stock for now leave the can.

Afternoon  gmcjetpilot

 

You might want to rethink this one. Having a functioning Evap can is a good thing for the environment as escaping hydrocarbons are a major emission. But it isn't always a good thing on the older BMW 1100/1150 motorcycles.

 

On the old 1100/1150 BMW's those Evap cans are a frequent cause of fuel system problems as the carbon inside turns to mush over the years then that carbon crap gets sucked into the fuel tank during fuel tank venting while riding.

 

A plugged Evap can can allow the sides of the plastic fuel tank to suck in & crush the fuel gauge sender tube. 

 

Or, that carbon mush that gets sucked in can plug fuel filters, plug the pump intake sock, & the fine carbon can even plug the very fine screen in the top of the fuel injectors.  

 

If you do decide to remove the Evap can & terminate the vent to behind the riders R/H foot peg (like non-US BMW bikes) then be sure to cut the exit end to have a 45° cut to it can't suck road water into the fuel tank while venting in wet road conditions. 

In fact that 45° cut should even be done if you keep the Evap canister functional. (there was a BMW service bulletin on this). Road water entering the Evap can during purging or venting is the most prevalent way the carbon media turns to mush.  

[gmcjetpilot]

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon  gmcjetpilot

 

You might want to rethink this one. Having a functioning Evap can is a good thing for the environment as escaping hydrocarbons are a major emission. But it isn't always a good thing on the older BMW 1100/1150 motorcycles.

 

On the old 1100/1150 BMW's those Evap cans are a frequent cause of fuel system problems as the carbon inside turns to mush over the years then that carbon crap gets sucked into the fuel tank during fuel tank venting while riding.

 

I have no idea what condition the can is in.  I am RE-THUNKING-IT.  There is another thread and videos with information. Thanks a million. Can you even buy a charcoal canister new? I shutter to think.

 

dirtrider your TIP on blockage was right on. It is almost as if you did this before.  Both could pass air when I blew into it. One felt slightly restricted. I took some drill bits and worked them by hand in ID of the pass thru tubes. I blew compressed air though the hoses, and puffs of rust dust came out the other end. The restriction was gone, both flow free. Ran safety wire in as well to get around into the bend in metal passthrough tubes. It made no difference. I think they are sound. I will blow WD40 in there to slow the corrosion down. 

 

PS I want it to be known I shall never consider removing Federally mandated pollution devices from any of motor vehicles I now own or may own in the future. For the record. 

[dirtrider]

Quote

I have no idea what condition the can is in.  I am RE-THUNKING-IT.  There is another thread and videos with information. Thanks a million. Can you even buy a charcoal canister new? I shutter to think.

Afternoon  gmcjetpilot

 

A new Evap can from BMW is about $180.00. 

 

E-Bay usually has a few but most are probably no better than yours might be. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmcjetpilot]

On 4/23/2023 at 1:28 PM, dirtrider said:

Afternoon  gmcjetpilot

A new Evap can from BMW is about $180.00. 

E-Bay usually has a few but most are probably no better than yours might be. 

 

 

If you were to remove the Evap can for maintenance / replacement it it would like this pic below.

 

I put the TANK back together, put it on, threw 2 Gal of ethanol free regular in.  I know primum fuel but shy about ethanol. Under light load regular will do. Connected the lines. Pushed the start button, two rotations of crank, a pop, than one rotation, IT STARTED RIGHT UP TO A STEADY IDLE. 

 

I still have to take tank back off, change brake lines, pads, bleed/flush. Then engine oil/filter and trans/drive fluids, then put tank back on, put fairings back on, to call it a complete job. YEAH IT IS RUNNING. 

 

WARNING:  I had screw clamps (not worm gear clamps) for inside of tank lines. When they are clocked in a certain way the can cause interference against tank inner surfaces. First the upper filler did not seat and align with holes.  I corrected that by moving one of the clamps. Then the fuel pump/filter plate was not lining up well. Again a clamp on one vent lines was interfering. I got spring hose clamp. No issue.