Valve Adjustment???

[JZ67]

Out for my first ride on my new new to me 06 and it seems like it is labouring in all gears between 3k and 5k rpm.  It seems to level out somewhere between 5k and 6k rpm and the power feels there but lacks power in lower rpm.  Do you think this needs a valve adjustment?

 

Bike has 69k km (42K miles)

 

From a full stop, she has great and smooth power through all the gears and I cannot feel any loss of power but while in motion I am experiencing what I noted above.  

[Ponch]

What gear do you have it in? These bikes like to live between 4-6k rpm. That said, there could be a lot of reasons. What maintenance has been done and when? How's the gas in it? A lot of CFs don't like to put premium in these bikes. They do run better with higher octane. How old is the gas?  When were the spark plugs done? Air filter? Valve clearance check? 

[JZ67]

16 minutes ago, Ponch said:

What gear do you have it in? These bikes like to live between 4-6k rpm. That said, there could be a lot of reasons. What maintenance has been done and when? How's the gas in it? A lot of CFs don't like to put premium in these bikes. They do run better with higher octane. How old is the gas?  When were the spark plugs done? Air filter? Valve clearance check? 

I get this sensation in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. 

 

I bought it used from a non BMW dealer and don't have a service history. There is about 3/4 tank and I don't know what kind of fuel or how fresh it is. 

 

I can pull the plugs and air filter and take a look. 

[Ponch]

3 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

I get this sensation in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. 

 

I bought it used from a non BMW dealer and don't have a service history. There is about 3/4 tank and I don't know what kind of fuel or how fresh it is. 

 

I can pull the plugs and air filter and take a look. 

It's that's the case, go through the bike like it was getting  12k and an annual, which is to say, completely. Really, at 42K, it's due for a service. 

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, JZ67 said:

Out for my first ride on my new new to me 06 and it seems like it is labouring in all gears between 3k and 5k rpm.  It seems to level out somewhere between 5k and 6k rpm and the power feels there but lacks power in lower rpm.  Do you think this needs a valve adjustment?

 

Bike has 69k km (42K miles)

 

From a full stop, she has great and smooth power through all the gears and I cannot feel any loss of power but while in motion I am experiencing what I noted above.  

Morning JZ67

 

Lots of reasons from being somewhat normal, to a stick coil not operating correctly, to low octane gasoline causing the knock sensors to pull spark advance out, to possibly needing a TPS re-learn, to an air restriction in the air filter, to a throttle body cam cracking issue, to ????????????

 

Probably start your search by doing a new TPS re-learn (see below) 

 

Then next, run your fuel tank almost dry then re-fill with a top tier premium gasoline.  

 

Then see how it runs. 

 

You might also do a throttle body plastic cam inspection looking for cracks. 

 

It doesn't sound like valve adjustment problem but it never hurts to check them on a BMW motorcycle with an unknown service history.

 

Does it feel like flat spot in the acceleration?-- If so there was a BMW service bulletin on the 2006/2007 1200RT for a power flat spot but it was in the upper cruising range, high gear at 70 mph+. The power slump was way more noticeable when using lower octane gasoline. 

 

 

                  -----1200RT  TPS re-learn procedure-----

 

*Disconnect the battery cable lead to the battery's positive post for about 3 minutes.
Then 
*Reconnect the positive lead to the battery's positive terminal.
Then
*Switch on the ignition. (do not start engine)
Then
*Without starting the engine, fully open/close the throttle once or twice so that the control unit of the BMW engine management system can register the throttle-valve positions.
Then
*Switch off the ignition.

That's it__

[JZ67]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Morning JZ67

 

Lots of reasons from being somewhat normal, to a stick coil not operating correctly, to low octane gasoline causing the knock sensors to pull spark advance out, to possibly needing a TPS re-learn, to an air restriction in the air filter, to a throttle body cam cracking issue, to ????????????

 

Probably start your search by doing a new TPS re-learn (see below) 

 

Then next, run your fuel tank almost dry then re-fill with a top tier premium gasoline.  

 

Then see how it runs. 

 

You might also do a throttle body plastic cam inspection looking for cracks. 

 

It doesn't sound like valve adjustment problem but it never hurts to check them on a BMW motorcycle with an unknown service history.

 

Does it feel like flat spot in the acceleration?-- If so there was a BMW service bulletin on the 2006/2007 1200RT for a power flat spot but it was in the upper cruising range, high gear at 70 mph+. The power slump was way more noticeable when using lower octane gasoline. 

 

 

                  -----1200RT  TPS re-learn procedure-----

 

*Disconnect the battery cable lead to the battery's positive post for about 3 minutes.
Then 
*Reconnect the positive lead to the battery's positive terminal.
Then
*Switch on the ignition. (do not start engine)
Then
*Without starting the engine, fully open/close the throttle once or twice so that the control unit of the BMW engine management system can register the throttle-valve positions.
Then
*Switch off the ignition.

That's it__

Thank you for the input.  I bought the bike from a Harley Davidson dealer and they admitted that they don't know BMW's very well but their service tech was apparently very BMW fluent.  They said they did a valve adjustment and I am waiting for confirmation from them on that.  

 

It had very little fuel in it when I looked at it and near a full tank on delivery.  I will ask if they filled with regular fuel but I suspect they know that they should be using higher octane fuel.  

 

It does feel like a flat spot but it happens at lower speeds than 70 mph and carries on at higher speeds as well.  Does it seem weird that this does not occur from a full stop and only on moving acceleration?

[dirtrider]

12 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

Thank you for the input.  I bought the bike from a Harley Davidson dealer and they admitted that they don't know BMW's very well but their service tech was apparently very BMW fluent.  They said they did a valve adjustment and I am waiting for confirmation from them on that.  

 

It had very little fuel in it when I looked at it and near a full tank on delivery.  I will ask if they filled with regular fuel but I suspect they know that they should be using higher octane fuel.  

 

It does feel like a flat spot but it happens at lower speeds than 70 mph and carries on at higher speeds as well.  Does it seem weird that this does not occur from a full stop and only on moving acceleration?

Morning JZ67

 

Do that TPS re-learn then ride it for while, maybe put a little Techron concentrate in the the fuel tank  (not too much just follow container directions) as Techron is a great fuel system cleaner that can help out on fuel injected motorcycles that have sat around unridden for a long time.  

 

It it keeps acting up then you will probably have to address that (might need a GS-911 or get it on a dealer computer). 

[JZ67]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Morning JZ67

 

Do that TPS re-learn then ride it for while, maybe put a little Techron concentrate in the the fuel tank  (not too much just follow container directions) as Techron is a great fuel system cleaner that can help out on fuel injected motorcycles that have sat around unridden for a long time.  

 

It it keeps acting up then you will probably have to address that (might need a GS-911 or get it on a dealer computer). 

It definitely sat longer than just the winter months and my previous R1150RT always felt a little sluggish coming out of storage but not quite like this.  Once I cleared the first tank on my oilhead it always performed better.  

 

I located a used GS-911 and the seller says the registration can be transferred.  Maybe I will jump on that.  

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

It definitely sat longer than just the winter months and my previous R1150RT always felt a little sluggish coming out of storage but not quite like this.  Once I cleared the first tank on my oilhead it always performed better.  

 

I located a used GS-911 and the seller says the registration can be transferred.  Maybe I will jump on that.  

Morning JZ67

 

I located a used GS-911 and the seller says the registration can be transferred.  Maybe I will jump on that.  --  Unless it is an exceptional deal on the GS-911 then make sure that it is the newer red W-Fi version GS-911.  The older (outdated) yellow GS-911 will do some things but not nearly as many as the newer red Wi-Fi GS-911. (especially if you want to trap live data while riding)

 

The live data trapping is a BIG asset in finding engine issues like your power sag issue. The BMW electronics do not trap that many riding malfunction faults that are not actual full failures. 

[JZ67]

Brought the bike back to the selling dealer and they diagnosed it as clutch slip which seems to fit.  They are sorting it out. 

[Ponch]

42K is a little low mileage for clutch slippage. Usually the engine revs and it doesn't increase in speed. Further, it's a dry clutch and you might smell it. IDK about a HD dealer diagnosing a BMW. The other thing is, a clutch job on that bike is like $2500. 

[JZ67]

I wasn't dialed into it fully but the engine revs about 1k rpm before any increase in speed.  

[Ponch]

You might want to check the fluid level of the clutch reservoir. As clutch wears the level rises and it can cause the clutch not to fully engage. Dirt Rider can elaborate. Again, these are HD people. 

[JZ67]

Thanks Ponch, I'll check the clutch fluid. 

 

I did not say the HD dealer was going to fix it, they said they would sort it out which may include sending it to a BMW dealer for service. 

 

They do have a tech that is very familiar with BMW as well. 

[JZ67]

On 4/11/2023 at 5:54 PM, Ponch said:

You might want to check the fluid level of the clutch reservoir. As clutch wears the level rises and it can cause the clutch not to fully engage. Dirt Rider can elaborate. Again, these are HD people. 

Hey Ponch, I pulled the clutch reservoir cap and it seems pretty full of fluid.  I do not see a min/max line though...could I have missed it? 

[dirtrider]

Evening JZ67

 

 

 

  

[Ponch]

29 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

Hey Ponch, I pulled the clutch reservoir cap and it seems pretty full of fluid.  I do not see a min/max line though...could I have missed it? 

 

Dirtrider can confirm, but it shouldn't be completely full. I looked at the manual and if you can't see the marks, it's probably too high. There are high and low level marks. The shop manual says for the fluid to be at the low mark with a new clutch. My guess is that this maybe the source of your clutch issue if you can't see the marks. If you have a clean syringe, you can remove some. Check it with the bike on the center stand and bars straight and level. The min/max lines are in the front of the reservoir and there's not a huge difference between them. 

[JZ67]

1 hour ago, Ponch said:

 

Dirtrider can confirm, but it shouldn't be completely full. I looked at the manual and if you can't see the marks, it's probably too high. There are high and low level marks. The shop manual says for the fluid to be at the low mark with a new clutch. My guess is that this maybe the source of your clutch issue if you can't see the marks. If you have a clean syringe, you can remove some. Check it with the bike on the center stand and bars straight and level. The min/max lines are in the front of the reservoir and there's not a huge difference between them. 

Thanks Ponch, I'll take a bit out and see if there are markings present. 

 

Do you really think removing fluid will help the clutch issue?

 

[Ponch]

5 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

Thanks Ponch, I'll take a bit out and see if there are markings present. 

 

Do you really think removing fluid will help the clutch issue?

 

It might if high fluid is causing the problem. The thing is, if left too long, the clutch might get hosed. 

[JZ67]

15 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening JZ67

 

 

 

  

Thanks dirtrider.  Your message didn't show up on my mobile device.  I really appreciate this image.  The fluid is sitting about 1mm below max line right now.

 

I am smelling something burning and can only assume it is the clutch.  I have never burnt out a clutch before so I don't know what is smells like.

 

I will say that this bike is far more comfortable and nimble than my 03 R1150RT though and I want to ride it.  Not sure what kind of riding I can do until it goes in to get this fixed.  

[dirtrider]

1 minute ago, JZ67 said:

Thanks dirtrider.  Your message didn't show up on my mobile device.  I really appreciate this image.  The fluid is sitting about 1mm below max line right now.

 

I am smelling something burning and can only assume it is the clutch.  I have never burnt out a clutch before so I don't know what is smells like.

 

I will say that this bike is far more comfortable and nimble than my 03 R1150RT though and I want to ride it.  Not sure what kind of riding I can do until it goes in to get this fixed.  

Morning JZ67

 

The reservoir needs to be REALLY overfilled to effect the clutch operation (like fluid spills out when cover is removed).

 

A burning clutch smells just like burning brakes (if you have ever followed a truck with a dragging brake).

 

The problem with a burnt clutch is it never gets better only worse until total slippage then no forward drive. 

 

Usually the clutch gets burnt from improper use (lots of slipping), or there is an oil leak at rear of engine allowing oil to get on the clutch friction surfaces causing slippage. 

[JZ67]

7 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning JZ67

 

The reservoir needs to be REALLY overfilled to effect the clutch operation (like fluid spills out when cover is removed).

 

A burning clutch smells just like burning brakes (if you have ever followed a truck with a dragging brake).

 

The problem with a burnt clutch is it never gets better only worse until total slippage then no forward drive. 

 

Usually the clutch gets burnt from improper use (lots of slipping), or there is an oil leak at rear of engine allowing oil to get on the clutch friction surfaces causing slippage. 

That's interesting. I noticed oil on the bottom of the engine but not a lot and not a real mess, like someone didn't clean well after an oil change. I wonder if it needs seals and not a clutch. 

[Ponch]

I think there are two seals that can cause problems there. One is what I call the rear main seal. Basically the crankshaft seal. The other I think is the balancer seal. I've heard of those leaking or seeping. In any case, if the clutch went bad because of them, more to do on a clutch replacement. I mean, if it were me, I'd replace all the seals in there if I had to do the clutch anyway regardless of why the clutch went bad. I'd only want to be in there once. 

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

That's interesting. I noticed oil on the bottom of the engine but not a lot and not a real mess, like someone didn't clean well after an oil change. I wonder if it needs seals and not a clutch. 

Evening  JZ67

 

If your clutch is slipping (and has been slipping) then it needs a new clutch regardless of the oil leak. But if it has an oil leak that effected the clutch then that THAT also needs to be repaired or it will ruin the new clutch.

[JZ67]

On 4/11/2023 at 7:49 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning JZ67

 

Do that TPS re-learn then ride it for while, maybe put a little Techron concentrate in the the fuel tank  (not too much just follow container directions) as Techron is a great fuel system cleaner that can help out on fuel injected motorcycles that have sat around unridden for a long time.  

 

It it keeps acting up then you will probably have to address that (might need a GS-911 or get it on a dealer computer). 

Hi Dirtrider, 

 

I see this GS-911 on Twisted Throttle.  New for the same money as the used one I found locally.  This is what you are referring to, correct?

 

https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/electronics/canbus-diagnostic-tools/hexcode-gs911-wifi-enthusiast-with-10-pin-connector/

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

Hi Dirtrider, 

 

I see this GS-911 on Twisted Throttle.  New for the same money as the used one I found locally.  This is what you are referring to, correct?

 

https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/electronics/canbus-diagnostic-tools/hexcode-gs911-wifi-enthusiast-with-10-pin-connector/

Evening JZ67

 

That one will work & has support with updates.  Personally I like the OBD-2 version with 10 pin adapter cable better as the OBD-2 will take you into the next water cooled up BMW era. That 10 pin will also work with a reverse adapter cable. With a 2'-3'  adapter Cable that allows hooking up the GS-911 then reinstalling the seat so you can trap data while riding. 

 

Go here & read about the GS-911 versions__      https://www.hexcode.co.za/

[JZ67]

UPDATE.

 

Bike is back at the dealer having the issue sorted.  I learned the tech working on the bike is Motorrad trained.

[JZ67]

Another update. 

 

Thanks to this thread and contributing members (dirtrider and Ponch) I was able to speak intelligently enough to alert them to potential root cause and they did find an oil seal leaking and will be replacing them. 

 

Thank you good folks for your time and community commitment. 

 

Joe 

[JZ67]

It's fixed!  Only chance to ride was commuting in the rain with traffic so I haven't had an opportunity to stretch her legs yet.  

I really loved my 03 RT, I affectionately called her "The Porn Star" because she would do everything I wanted and a bunch of stuff I was too bashful to try.  I am hoping the new girl delivers the same experience. 

[Ponch]

What exactly did they do?

[JZ67]

17 hours ago, Ponch said:

What exactly did they do?

Ponch, they replaced all the clutch components and seals.  They showed me the old parts and pictures of the job.  

 

They advertise their used bikes as rigorously inspected and ready to ride.  That was not my experience but they did own the entirety of the issue and fixed it.  I am very pleased that I won't have to worry about this issue.

 

Enjoying your YouTube, BTW.  

[Ponch]

11 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

Ponch, they replaced all the clutch components and seals.  They showed me the old parts and pictures of the job.  

 

They advertise their used bikes as rigorously inspected and ready to ride.  That was not my experience but they did own the entirety of the issue and fixed it.  I am very pleased that I won't have to worry about this issue.

 

Enjoying your YouTube, BTW.  

Just wondered what happened. If they did everything, you should be good for quite a while. My only advice is check out the DIY section in the Hexhead section on the BMW MOA forum. Lots of good tutorials there to get you started and beyond that is a treasure trove of information here. Good luck with the bike and thanks for the comments. 

[JZ67]

1 hour ago, Ponch said:

Just wondered what happened. If they did everything, you should be good for quite a while. My only advice is check out the DIY section in the Hexhead section on the BMW MOA forum. Lots of good tutorials there to get you started and beyond that is a treasure trove of information here. Good luck with the bike and thanks for the comments. 

 

I have checked out some stuff and figure I will probably need to replace the plugs.  Just received the coil removal tool so I will be tackling that soon.  

[JZ67]

Went out for my first ride yesterday and did about 140 miles.  Bike really likes being in a higher RPM range compared to my R1150RT.  

 

Although this bike is much more comfortable to ride, it just seems like something is off when I compare to the R1150RT.  I can't put my thumb on it.  It pulls through the gears well with plenty of power so I'm not really sure what to make of it yet.  Maybe I just need more seat time.  The previous owner put on a tinted wind screen and I really don't like it much - would prefer an OEM clear screen if anyone has one.

 

Pulled the plugs when it cooled down.  They seem to be in good shape.  

 

[dirtrider]

15 minutes ago, JZ67 said:

Went out for my first ride yesterday and did about 140 miles.  Bike really likes being in a higher RPM range compared to my R1150RT.  

 

Although this bike is much more comfortable to ride, it just seems like something is off when I compare to the R1150RT.  I can't put my thumb on it.  It pulls through the gears well with plenty of power so I'm not really sure what to make of it yet.  Maybe I just need more seat time.  The previous owner put on a tinted wind screen and I really don't like it much - would prefer an OEM clear screen if anyone has one.

 

Pulled the plugs when it cooled down.  They seem to be in good shape.  

 

Afternoon JZ67

 

How do the lower plugs look? Those are usually a lot darker. 

 

 

[JZ67]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon JZ67

 

How do the lower plugs look? Those are usually a lot darker. 

 

 

Good afternoon,  dirtrider. 

 

I didn't pull the bottom plugs as I ran out of time. I'll pull them first chance I get. 

[JZ67]

On 5/7/2023 at 2:56 PM, dirtrider said:

Afternoon JZ67

 

How do the lower plugs look? Those are usually a lot darker. 

 

 

Good evening, dirtrider.

 

You are correct.  The bottom plugs are a lot darker and both were a bit wet with fuel with the left side (photo) being more wet.  Not sure if this is a symptom of a bigger problem or just gravity. It might be worth noting that I did do the TPS relearn and did not restart the bike since.  Could that be why the plugs are wet?

 

I suspect that while I have the tupperware off that replacing all the plugs would be a good idea.  Is there a recommended replacement? 

 

 

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, JZ67 said:

Good evening, dirtrider.

 

You are correct.  The bottom plugs are a lot darker and both were a bit wet with fuel with the left side (photo) being more wet.  Not sure if this is a symptom of a bigger problem or just gravity. It might be worth noting that I did do the TPS relearn and did not restart the bike since.  Could that be why the plugs are wet?

 

I suspect that while I have the tupperware off that replacing all the plugs would be a good idea.  Is there a recommended replacement? 

 

Morning JZ67

 

I wouldn't say that is normal but it is not unusual for the lower plugs on a hexhead that has been started a number of times without any high speed riding, and/or idled a lot,  or just ridden around locally. 

 

Most of what you see is oil that gets past the piston rings at shutdown then migrates to the lowest part of the combustion chamber. Due to the motorcycle leaning left when on the side stand the left side lower spark plug is usually worse than the right side lower plug.  

 

Your 2006 1200RT uses the NGK DCPR8EKC, those devils are expensive but are proper for your motorcycle.

 

Personally I either use the OEM if I have a set available or use the the NGK DCPR8EKP. 

 

The NGK DCPR8EKP are very similar to the stock DCPR8EKC dual electrode plugs only with a bit different (and better according to my NGK rep) electrodes. 

 

Do be a little careful in buying cheaper name brand spark plugs  (notably cheaper than the going price from a reputable source)  as there are a number of Chinese counterfeit spark plugs floating around at a reduced price & definitely at a  reduced quality.   

 

About the only time you can get a good reading on the lower plugs in a 1200 Hexhead is after a long ( hundred mile +) high speed freeway run. Even then, just park the motorcycle on the center stand after the run, allow it to cool off (don't remove hot-engine spark plugs) THEN look at the plugs. Do not start the motorcycle after the high speed run before looking at the plugs as even that one cold start can darken the lower plugs again. 

 

 

[JZ67]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Morning JZ67

 

I wouldn't say that is normal but it is not unusual for the lower plugs on a hexhead that has been started a number of times without any high speed riding, and/or idled a lot,  or just ridden around locally. 

 

Most of what you see is oil that gets past the piston rings at shutdown then migrates to the lowest part of the combustion chamber. Due to the motorcycle leaning left when on the side stand the left side lower spark plug is usually worse than the right side lower plug.  

 

Your 2006 1200RT uses the NGK DCPR8EKC, those devils are expensive but are proper for your motorcycle.

 

Personally I either use the OEM if I have a set available or use the the NGK DCPR8EKP. 

 

The NGK DCPR8EKP are very similar to the stock DCPR8EKC dual electrode plugs only with a bit different (and better according to my NGK rep) electrodes. 

 

Do be a little careful in buying cheaper name brand spark plugs  (notably cheaper than the going price from a reputable source)  as there are a number of Chinese counterfeit spark plugs floating around at a reduced price & definitely at a  reduced quality.   

 

About the only time you can get a good reading on the lower plugs in a 1200 Hexhead is after a long ( hundred mile +) high speed freeway run. Even then, just park the motorcycle on the center stand after the run, allow it to cool off (don't remove hot-engine spark plugs) THEN look at the plugs. Do not start the motorcycle after the high speed run before looking at the plugs as even that one cold start can darken the lower plugs again. 

 

 

Dirtrider, I truly appreciate that you take the time to respond. Thank you so much!  

 

OEM plugs are about $24 each in Toronto, Canada and I'm hoping the local Motorrad dealer has a set in stock today. 

 

 

[Hosstage]

$24. Per spark plug. Wow.

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, JZ67 said:

Dirtrider, I truly appreciate that you take the time to respond. Thank you so much!  

 

OEM plugs are about $24 each in Toronto, Canada and I'm hoping the local Motorrad dealer has a set in stock today. 

 

 

Morning JZ67

 

Will Amazon deliver to Canada? If so the  NGK DCPR8EKP are just a tad over $40.00 (US dollars). You might also see if your local auto parts store can get them for you. 

[Ponch]

I've used Beemer bone yard and o'reillys. Maybe Amazon too. The problem with local stuff is that no one wants to carry a lot of inventory anymore and I might as well order it somewhere off the internet. It's like the oil for my car. Specific 0w-40. My local autoparts don't keep it in stock and it's cheaper on amazon. I don't recall paying nearly that for plugs. 

[JZ67]

50 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning JZ67

 

Will Amazon deliver to Canada? If so the  NGK DCPR8EKP are just a tad over $40.00 (US dollars). You might also see if your local auto parts store can get them for you. 

Thanks dirtrider.  I checked Amazon and the availability is slim. One seller had one unit in stock at over $100.  Others were low $20 and again oy 1 in stock.  The dealer has them and I'll be picking up later. 

[JZ67]

4 hours ago, Ponch said:

I've used Beemer bone yard and o'reillys. Maybe Amazon too. The problem with local stuff is that no one wants to carry a lot of inventory anymore and I might as well order it somewhere off the internet. It's like the oil for my car. Specific 0w-40. My local autoparts don't keep it in stock and it's cheaper on amazon. I don't recall paying nearly that for plugs. 

Beemer Boneyard is showing the OEM plug at $39.50 for a pair. Factoring exchange and shipping, buying from the local dealer makes more sense. 

 

Ebay is far more competitively priced but delivery is 2 - 4 weeks. I really don't feel like putting all the Tupperware back on to remove later although it is a 2 beer job when stretched accordingly...oh well, too late. 

[Ponch]

On 5/12/2023 at 11:02 AM, JZ67 said:

Beemer Boneyard is showing the OEM plug at $39.50 for a pair. Factoring exchange and shipping, buying from the local dealer makes more sense. 

 

Ebay is far more competitively priced but delivery is 2 - 4 weeks. I really don't feel like putting all the Tupperware back on to remove later although it is a 2 beer job when stretched accordingly...oh well, too late. 

That's crazy expensive. I saw the NGK Iridiums were 50 for 4. That's cheaper than the 73 for the platinum for 4 on BBY site. Maybe it's an exchange thing. 

 

I've gotten to the point where I can do the Tupperware blindfolded. 

[JZ67]

On 5/13/2023 at 11:46 PM, Ponch said:

That's crazy expensive. I saw the NGK Iridiums were 50 for 4. That's cheaper than the 73 for the platinum for 4 on BBY site. Maybe it's an exchange thing. 

 

I've gotten to the point where I can do the Tupperware blindfolded. 

All things bike related are more expensive in Canada.  Our market is smaller and our season is much shorter.  

 

The new plugs are in and she seems to like the refresh.  Now I just need to get out more often.  Riding is really limited to weekends when I can get out.  I'll have to make the most of it.  

 

The only thing I am noticing is a bit of a light vibration in the handle bars but that was common on my oilhead and from what I understand it is also common on the hexhead.  

 

One speaker seems to work when it feels like behaving.  I might try to sort that but not sure it's worth it.  

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, JZ67 said:

 

The only thing I am noticing is a bit of a light vibration in the handle bars but that was common on my oilhead and from what I understand it is also common on the hexhead.  

 

Morning JZ67

 

That light vibration (buzz) in the handlebars is normal as the engine only has a single balance shaft.

 

You can't remove the engine buzz but you can lower it's effect somewhat by gripping your handlebar grips with a lighter hold (riders tend to grip the bars tighter on new to them motorcycles). 

 

Ride it for a while as most likely it will not be a big deal after you get more used to the motorcycle.  

 

You can do things like add grip-puppies, remove one attaching bolt on each bar to upper tipple tree the shim the other 3 with thin washers to allow the bars to be more tuned & be less of a problem.