accessory socket

[steveg]

I read somewhere that if you use the accessory plug for a gerbings heated jacket it causes a fault and had to be reset by the dealer , Has anyone Had experience with this happening. Would like to know before I try it. 2020rt

Thanks

Steve

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, steveg said:

I read somewhere that if you use the accessory plug for a gerbings heated jacket it causes a fault and had to be reset by the dealer , Has anyone Had experience with this happening. Would like to know before I try it. 2020rt

Thanks

Steve

Morning Steve

 

I don't know where you read that but don't read anything more at that web site.

 

The worst that will happen if plug it a Gerbings product that draws to much current will be that the circuit automatically shuts itself down. It will automatically reset itself when the ignition switch is shut off then turned on again. (basically self healing).

 

Typically a simple Gerbings jacket liner does not draw enough current to shut the circuit down but a full heated coat can in some situations. 

[Skywagon]

The two accessory sockets have a combined capacity of 15 amps I believe. I use a gerbings heated jacket all the time in the winter and sometimes add their heated gloves. I’ve only had the circuit go off-line once or twice. That happened when the jacket and pants were on high and I was stuck at idle for a while. My experience has been turn the key off, wait 5 seconds, and it will return to normal. Riding with the jacket only on full blast, I’ve never had an issue. 

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Skywagon said:

The two accessory sockets have a combined capacity of 15 amps I believe. I use a gerbings heated jacket all the time in the winter and sometimes add their heated gloves. I’ve only had the circuit go off-line once or twice. That happened when the jacket and pants were on high and I was stuck at idle for a while. My experience has been turn the key off, wait 5 seconds, and it will return to normal. Riding with the jacket only on full blast, I’ve never had an issue. 

Morning David

 

"I’ve only had the circuit go off-line once or twice. That happened when the jacket and pants were on high and I was stuck at idle for a while"--  That typically only happens on real old resistive controllers. The newer  controllers are pulse width modulated so low vs high doesn't make much difference as they pulse 0/100%, 0/100%, 0/100%  on & off. The heat output is controlled by amount of time (on) vs amount of time (off).  The idle part can figure in a little as the system voltage drops at idle. 

 

The dual controllers can be puzzler, if the jacket & gloves are on different circuits of the controller & the controller is set to a lower setting then they can go along working just fine with the jacket & glove circuits cycling on & off opposed to each other. But sooner or later they will end up cycling on at the same time & that load then trips the accessory outlet circuit protection. 

[DBULL]

I have warm and safe liners (shirt and pants) and custom gloves and insoles (Ken Phenix heated gear)   His recommendation is to connect directly to the battery for the best power to the units.  I use remote controllers.  My wife's heated vest is fine (and really she doesn't like to ride when it's needed) for that to be connected to the acc plug.   For the long days of riding when you need power for all day, I feel better connected with as full power as possible.  I'm not saying other outlets are good, just what I've been told to hook up my gear.  

[Skywagon]

28 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

pulse width modulated

 

My controllers are newer pulse modulated.  I think the circuit dropped twice in my lifetime.  I've used the jacket, pant's and gloves 10's of thousands of miles an probably a couple hundred times.

[dirtrider]

27 minutes ago, DBULL said:

I have warm and safe liners (shirt and pants) and custom gloves and insoles (Ken Phenix heated gear)   His recommendation is to connect directly to the battery for the best power to the units.  I use remote controllers.  My wife's heated vest is fine (and really she doesn't like to ride when it's needed) for that to be connected to the acc plug.   For the long days of riding when you need power for all day, I feel better connected with as full power as possible.  I'm not saying other outlets are good, just what I've been told to hook up my gear.  

Morning DBULL

 

That is definitely the best way as that eliminates most if not all of the potential powering issues. 

 

I typically re-wire my front accessory socket to be battery direct with a 15 amp fuse. That will run about anything I put on that circuit including my 12v air compressor. Plus it allows battery charging through the front accessory socket without using a special battery charger.  

 

I just leave the rear wired as OEM on the ZFE controlled circuit as my wife's small heated jacket draws less than 10 amps. 

 

 

[strataj]

2 hours ago, Skywagon said:

The two accessory sockets have a combined capacity of 15 amps I believe. I use a gerbings heated jacket all the time in the winter and sometimes add their heated gloves. I’ve only had the circuit go off-line once or twice. That happened when the jacket and pants were on high and I was stuck at idle for a while. My experience has been turn the key off, wait 5 seconds, and it will return to normal. Riding with the jacket only on full blast, I’ve never had an issue. 

The accessory sockets have a combined capacity of 10amps.  I'm using an EzCan, one of my leads powers my jacket and cloves, I would recommend this set up or direct to the battery ( I couldn't find a good place for a small fuse box on my 22R1250RT). 

 

Like DR said a direct lead with a pig tail is great I too use this for my battery tender and air bump use.

[Skywagon]

3 minutes ago, strataj said:

The accessory sockets have a combined capacity of 10amps

 

Thanks for clarification.  I wasn't completely sure.

[nh1200c]

1 hour ago, strataj said:

The accessory sockets have a combined capacity of 10amps.  I'm using an EzCan, one of my leads powers my jacket and cloves, I would recommend this set up or direct to the battery ( I couldn't find a good place for a small fuse box on my 22R1250RT). 

 

Like DR said a direct lead with a pig tail is great I too use this for my battery tender and air bump use.

 

I think the best answer is to refer to the manual for your specific bike - like on my 2020 RT the combined capacity is only spec'd at 5 Amps. (Manual page below.)

 

Larry

[strataj]

I see it but... 5amps combined is about useless, the following is from a 21R1250RT:

 

This is from a 17-18R1200RT  It's also the same on a 14R1200RT -  5amps on a 2020, what is BMW thinking?  Just after I got my 2014R1200RT I was on a ride with a few buds, one on a 13R1200GS (first year of the Wethead GS)  needed air.  I gave him my pump, didn't work, blew the can-bus, connected up to my 14R1200RT worked great, we later found it was only 5amps combined.  BMW changed that in 2014 if I call correctly. 

 

[Skywagon]

Wow...if 5 amp total, that is pretty limiting.

 

This is from my 2014 RT. 

 

Electrics
Electrical rating of on-board sockets max 10 A, total for all sockets
Fuse box 15 A, Slot 1: Instrument cluster, alarm system
(DWA), ignition lock, diagnostic socket, topcase
light
7.5 A, Slot 2: Multifunction switch left, tyre pressure
control (RDC), audio system
Battery
Battery type AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery
Battery rated voltage 12 V
Battery rated capacity 16 Ah
Spark plugs
Spark plugs, manufacturer and designation NGK LMAR8D-J
Electrode gap of spark plug 0.8±0.1 mm
10

[steveg]

Thanks guys for the clarification,  didn't want to have a check light come on