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Short story, let the challenge begin


Warrant

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Good day all,

 

It appears the motorcycle gods have made me the saviour of wayward bikes. I do enjoy a challenge so let the games begin. 

 

This R1100RS has been treated poorly, to a certain extent. Certainly a distant beauty queen, as they say 'at fifty feet, fifty miles an hour, it is mint'.

I did not feel the bike was misrepresented in anyway, but it is funny how much can be hiding behind the 'tupperware'. A somewhat dodgy respray to cover front fairing body damage was an indicator of what lied beneath. If you look close you can see the color difference on the fork lowers compared to the fender etc.

 

Mechanically it appears to be in good shape, +37K miles on the clock. Starts up with very little fanfare, runs smooth, no blue smoke, no oil leaks. All the lights work, signals, horn, no tach function.

A quick parking lot spin was all I needed, off I rode to my home 25km away on a twisty lake side road. Aside from the tires needing air, shifting was good, no wobbles, track straight, engine pulled hard and shifted when asked, smiles ahead :classic_biggrin:

 

So here it is with the dodgy front fairing off, the side lowers are intact with no damage (the strange little piece behind the head pipe off the cylinders is burnt, engineers?) The body filler and wood screws gave me a good laugh :rofl:

 

The saving grace is that I live in a desert region (yes in Canada), so hot dry summers and cold dry winters keep rust at bay.

I will be going all in after I move to my new home in a few months, no need to disassemble this bike to have to move it in boxes.....

 

Thanks for reading this far, if you did

I really appreciate the knowledge you all have and share with us new folk.

 

 Cheers and ride safe!

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Warrant said:

Good day all,

 

It appears the motorcycle gods have made me the saviour of wayward bikes. I do enjoy a challenge so let the games begin. 

 

This R1100RS has been treated poorly, to a certain extent. Certainly a distant beauty queen, as they say 'at fifty feet, fifty miles an hour, it is mint'.

I did not feel the bike was misrepresented in anyway, but it is funny how much can be hiding behind the 'tupperware'. A somewhat dodgy respray to cover front fairing body damage was an indicator of what lied beneath. If you look close you can see the color difference on the fork lowers compared to the fender etc.

 

Mechanically it appears to be in good shape, +37K miles on the clock. Starts up with very little fanfare, runs smooth, no blue smoke, no oil leaks. All the lights work, signals, horn, no tach function.

A quick parking lot spin was all I needed, off I rode to my home 25km away on a twisty lake side road. Aside from the tires needing air, shifting was good, no wobbles, track straight, engine pulled hard and shifted when asked, smiles ahead :classic_biggrin:

 

So here it is with the dodgy front fairing off, the side lowers are intact with no damage (the strange little piece behind the head pipe off the cylinders is burnt, engineers?) The body filler and wood screws gave me a good laugh :rofl:

 

The saving grace is that I live in a desert region (yes in Canada), so hot dry summers and cold dry winters keep rust at bay.

I will be going all in after I move to my new home in a few months, no need to disassemble this bike to have to move it in boxes.....

 

Thanks for reading this far, if you did

I really appreciate the knowledge you all have and share with us new folk.

 

 Cheers and ride safe!

 

Afternoon Warrant

 

It doesn't look that bad under the hood (at least from the picture you posted).  

 

That burnt plastic is not that abnormal & usually doesn't indicate anything other than at sometime in it's life it was allowed to fast idle too long sitting still during a warmup. 

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Slowly paying my boxer taxes. I also joined the resurrection club last fall.   Bought a 1999 RT that was owned for a while by someone that shouldn't have owned it.  Previous maintenance history is a mystery.  Discoveries such as bodywork appears to have been replaced.  Punctured tank repaired.  Luggage mount broken.  HES wiring toasted. Looking forward to actually riding it as soon as the snow disappears here in Sussex New Brunswick.  Looking forward to updates on yer machine.

 

Cheers!

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2 hours ago, Uncle Brad said:

Slowly paying my boxer taxes. I also joined the resurrection club last fall.   Bought a 1999 RT that was owned for a while by someone that shouldn't have owned it.  Previous maintenance history is a mystery.  Discoveries such as bodywork appears to have been replaced.  Punctured tank repaired.  Luggage mount broken.  HES wiring toasted. Looking forward to actually riding it as soon as the snow disappears here in Sussex New Brunswick.  Looking forward to updates on yer machine.

 

Cheers!

 

Visited the East Coast in September, did a road trip from Halifax NS, and got as far as Cape Breton, then Hurricane Fiona showed up! Good times!

 

I do agree with working my way up the food chain on different moto brands. Like anything mechanical, knowing how it is put together (properly) is all the fun. Boxers have always been of interest, just gun shy of all the stories you hear the interwebs.

 

Will be exposing and posting in the near future, almost feels gentlemen like to be working on a machine with such pedigree. 

 

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I loved the performance of my R1100RT (P), not so much the repairs I had to do, but that's luck of the draw with motorcycles to some extent.  However, the handling and all around performance of my first R1200RT (2005 Hexhead) made me forget everything I liked about the old RTP.   Just a WAY better machine.  I understand folks falling in love with the older equipment, but if I were to spend the time (and money) to resurrect an old BMW, it would have to be at least a 2005 R1200, RT or GS. 

 

But, the old girls are beautiful, too.  I'd probably appreciate the earlier (R1100/R1150) generation more if I'd come up riding older BMW's, e.g. R100 types.  

 

Good luck to you folks on your rebuilds.  Have bunch of fun with both the fixing and the riding. 🍻

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That looks properly clean! Mine looks like the back of the cupboard under the stairs once you get the plastic off!!  Why is a cheap old bike so much more fun than a new one?  Enjoy it oilheads are easy to fix too

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And then we have........ With only 13.5K miles, all put on by me, in absolutely pristine condition and never once even been rained on.  Disgusting!

 

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2 minutes ago, JamesW said:

And then we have........ With only 13.5K miles, all put on by me, in absolutely pristine condition and never once even been rained on.  Disgusting!

 

Well now I feel somewhat accepted to the cheap seats :stir:

That is what they call unobtainium, clearly a respectable owner of a slightly used museum bike.

 

Thank you!

 

 

 

 

 

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Actually, I kind of like your front fender color.  I had the head pipes ceramic coated because it supposedly reduces heat radiation which as you know can scorch the lower part of the side panels and it kind of looks good and wasn't too expensive only about $135.  The Dominator muffler eliminated the catalytic converter then cutting the code plug jumper caused the computer to ignore inputs from the O2 sensor all of which resulted in a perfect running machine.  This all worked on my bike which is a 1993 version.  Not sure if the results would be the same on a later bike.  Getting rid of the original muffler/cat converter shaved about 22 pounds off.  About all I do is maintain it and do all preventive maintenance myself which is easy to do pretty much.  Kind of airhead like.

 

If anything ever goes wrong with the original M93 transmission I'm out of luck because BMW does not support the 5 speed transmissions on these R1100 bikes in any way and the only transmissions you will find are well used hunks of junk, imo.  BMW, imo, doesn't win many prizes when it comes to trans reliability.  This kind of irritates me a bit but when it comes to BMW there are many things that cause me grief but that's a story for another day and probably better to not go there come to think of it. lol..lol.. As in been there done that.

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Warrant, if you are in BMW's, you're not in the cheap seats!!  Sorry. When you start buying parts this will become very clear.

 

But, Welcome to The Neighborhood!!  LOTS of experience and knowledge here on the oilheads.  And the others, too.  The 2000 era oilheads are at the nadir of purchase price of BMW's and some of the best values in motorcycles, I think.  The insurance and taxes are waaay less than the newer ones, too.  The R11RT's are among the most beautiful bikes ever made, IMHO.  LOTS of info, spare parts, and help are available, too.  I have two old oilheads and a K bike from the vintage.

 

My '00 K1200RS and '99 R1100S, plus the rear ends of my bro's two airheads and a lawnmower:

image.thumb.png.e33a0d2cd719fbfc25c0b18ed673b1c6.png

 

BTW, another Canuk is not far from you with an R1100S:  "Kiloherts" up in Vernon, BC, area.  And another member, GSAddict, that rewires oilhead HES units is over in Sechelt, BC, not too far away.  Probably many others, too.

 

There are a few well known and sorted "issues" with these bikes, HES, brake lines, fuel hoses in the tank.  Not sure you have the dreaded "spline" problem with that bike, don't think I've seen it mentioned before on here.

 

BEAUTIFUL bike you have there.  KEEP US POSTED on the recovery efforts!!

 

 

Lowndes

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Hi Lowndes,  Beautiful bikes you have there and that K1200RS is artwork on two wheels no doubt about it.  Snort and wet weight is very similar to my FJR but when it comes to a real class act I think your bike wins the race.:18:

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

Well, I had to do a little investigating to see what was going on...soon to be a full strip down, but this will allow me to move it in a couple months

-HES wiring was history, removed and off the local rewire master for some love

-all the fuel lines are the wrong size and all the vent lines are hard plastic now, starting fresh

-can see an oil leak in the clutch area....will be going in there this fall for a full check up

-starting to see the allure of a boxer engine, very simple design 

 

Thanks for looking in on my project!

 

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Howdy Neighbor!!

Nice looking project. I'm riding mine (99 R1100rt) now, I bought it last fall and tore it all apart to check things out.

I never found a whole lot wrong with mine besides a leaky front brake master and a cracked in 2 places center stand that was ready to dump my bike on the floor.

Good luck!!!

 

 

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Roadflyer, that looks nearly identical to my 96 glacier green RT.  I currently ride a 2018 RT.  I have often said, if I could find another new 96 RT, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.  Best MC I ever owned.  I almost found one at the national bmw rally in Billings, MT in 2015.  There was a 96 glacier green in the parking lot with 4,000 miles on the ODO.  Never connected with the owner.   Enjoy your ride!  jc

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While you have all of the bodywork off, check for frayed wires, that come onto the ignition, at the bottom.

some of these have been zip tied too tight, and will be ready to break, due to all of the steering movement. I replaced mine with a partial harness ($$$), but, I understand that it possible to solder the existing wiring in place.

 

mine also developed a cracke in the fairing sub frame, just below the instrument pod. I had it welded and buttressed, and it’s been fine.
 

My RS is the same as yours. Good looking machines in silver.

John

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19 hours ago, Warrant said:

 

Well, I had to do a little investigating to see what was going on...soon to be a full strip down, but this will allow me to move it in a couple months

-HES wiring was history, removed and off the local rewire master for some love

-all the fuel lines are the wrong size and all the vent lines are hard plastic now, starting fresh

-can see an oil leak in the clutch area....will be going in there this fall for a full check up

-starting to see the allure of a boxer engine, very simple design 

 

Thanks for looking in on my project!

 

Warrant - are you familiar with the clutch cylinder weep hole install for these R1100 and R1150 bikes??

 

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On 4/3/2023 at 5:24 AM, Lowndes said:

Warrant - are you familiar with the clutch cylinder weep hole install for these R1100 and R1150 bikes??

 

I have seen 'dirtrider' post some good info on that, it will be one of the items I look at once the transmission is off. 

I have found that most hydraulic slave actuators have a limited leak free life span.

All of my Kawasaki bikes (inline 4 cylinders) would go for a few years before needing attention, however the slave was mounted easily accessible making service a simple task.

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On 4/3/2023 at 5:19 AM, SDCRJohn said:

While you have all of the bodywork off, check for frayed wires, that come onto the ignition, at the bottom.

some of these have been zip tied too tight, and will be ready to break, due to all of the steering movement. I replaced mine with a partial harness ($$$), but, I understand that it possible to solder the existing wiring in place.

 

mine also developed a cracke in the fairing sub frame, just below the instrument pod. I had it welded and buttressed, and it’s been fine.
 

My RS is the same as yours. Good looking machines in silver.

John

 

Thank you for the heads up on that. I am replacing the front sub-frame so checking all the wiring will be a part of the operation.

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8 hours ago, Warrant said:

 

I have seen 'dirtrider' post some good info on that, it will be one of the items I look at once the transmission is off. 

I have found that most hydraulic slave actuators have a limited leak free life span.

All of my Kawasaki bikes (inline 4 cylinders) would go for a few years before needing attention, however the slave was mounted easily accessible making service a simple task.

 

"slave actuators have a limited leak free life span".  Well said.  It's not IF but WHEN.

 

The "weep hole" will (hopefully) prevent a not-so-simple slave cyl replacement from becoming a bigger slave cyl AND clutch replacement.  

 

There are several types of weep holes discussed in previous postings.  One is simply to cut out a small section of the gasket between the slave cyl and transmission.  The gasket is very thin and I'm not sure it would "weep" enough fluid to prevent an overflow into the clutch.  Any fluid would not be under any pressure as this area is atmospheric pressure and it would only be gravity pulling the fluid thru.

 

Another type is to cut a notch in the face of the transmission mount, very similar to the "gasket gap" above.  

 

I drilled a hole into the bottom of the slave cyl mount directly under the slave cyl piston in the 1/4 inch gap between the mounted cyl and the transmission.  (see pics)  When I do another I'll drill a slightly larger hole and install a short brass nipple and a clear drain tube down to the bottom of the engine.  This will make it much easier to see if there is a problem developing.

 

All pics:  https://photos.google.com/u/1/share/AF1QipML6ITqR378NDxroxQhnU-UEdOe6V3tEZgS_fe_5qC_epdWDdjygqHX7jPsx4Y_uQ?key=OVZXalc1N3hYQmhQOEhzcGNZTlI2R0xGc1gzT25R

 

image.thumb.png.3bdd7104e2daf29a1bc87bf664d5f7c3.png

 

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Lowndes.. I have a comment and a question. I’ve never been in that deep in a bike before. Could you create a Venturi tube that would suck it out versus just a drain, or would a small Venturi suck all the fluid out?

 

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1 hour ago, Skywagon said:

Lowndes.. I have a comment and a question. I’ve never been in that deep in a bike before. Could you create a Venturi tube that would suck it out versus just a drain, or would a small Venturi suck all the fluid out?

 

Morning David

 

That probably wouldn't work as they don't leak ounces or pints, they start by seeping very slowly so the fluid builds up very slowly to a point that it can migrate down the push rod cavity in the center of the input shaft then into the clutch area.

 

It really doesn't take much of a weep hole as all it takes is a little seep type drain off (small hole or even a slot in the lower part of the gasket).  As long as it doesn't plug up then almost anything low enough in the slave cavity will work. The more you add (complexity wise, or length wise, or wicket wise, then the better chance it can plug up with worn clutch material, or grease from a failed slave bearing) 

 

With trans removed then the drain hole is a good option.  With an experience tec that knows the depth & design of the slave cavity in the trans, then with a long drill bit, & a good working angle the hole can be added with the transmission still in the motorcycle. 

 

For most that are not experienced in such things then slotting the gasket is the safest approach as I have seen more than one rider that drilled the hole with the transmission in place & the long drill bit wandered into the input shaft rear seal ruining the transmission.  (easy to miss the correct location & correct angle  with the transmission still in the motorcycle) 

 

The usual tell-tail is black looking clutch fluid, once it starts tuning black then slave failure is in your future, probably sooner than later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good day all,

 

If you have an HES causing issues or haven't looked at your HES wiring connection lately, do it. I was reading a few different forums and they all stated the wiring is the problem not the whole assembly.

 

This is what you get from the infamous RETO ( arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca ) on many of the BMW forums. Great communicator and super fast turn around. Rewired and bench tested for peace of mind.

 

No 'before' pics of mine and the bike was running fine, however the wiring insulation was just crumbling off at every point visible, a break down just waiting to happen.

 

Thank you Reto! 

 

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