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Problème d’arrêt du moteur quand il est chaud,BMW R1150RT 2003.


Michel Isola

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Michel Isola

Bonjour amis motocyclistes, j'ai un problème d'arrêt de moteur de ma BMW R1150RT 2003, je peux rouler des heures et soudain le moteur arrête et je dois attendre qu'elle refroidisse pour pouvoir la relancer, ça peut prendre une demi-heure et plus. Le moteur à froid démarre comme un charme. Les bougies sont flambant neuves. La batterie est très bonne, la pompe à essence fonctionne, l'huile est au bon niveau, ne manque pas d'essence. Serait-ce un capteur ? pouvez- vous m'aider svp?

Merci d'avance!

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17 minutes ago, Michel Isola said:

Bonjour amis motocyclistes


That’s about as far as I got in French. Oh wait a minute, I never took French! :spittake: I’m sure many would like to help, how’s your English? Welcome to the site! :wave:

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My French is really rusty (and it was Cajun French, so not a real match anyway), so, I found a translator
 
 
Hello motorcycle friends, I have a problem with the engine stop of my BMW R1150RT 2003, I can drive for hours and suddenly the engine stops and I have to wait for it to cool down to be able to restart it, it can take half an hour and more. The cold engine starts like a charm. The candles are brand new. The battery is very good, the fuel pump is working, the oil is at the right level, does not lack gasoline. Could it be a sensor? Can you help me please? Thanks in advance!
 
 
 
 
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15 minutes ago, Rougarou said:

and it was Cajun French


I’d love to hear it in Cajun French! I know there’d be a Boudin Ball in there somewhere! :classic_biggrin:

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6 minutes ago, Michel Isola said:

Thank you very much!


@dirtrider is very good at diagnosing BMW gremlins over the internet… Hopefully he’ll see this and help ya out with his usual helpfulness! :spittake:

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Joe Frickin' Friday
14 hours ago, Rougarou said:

The candles are brand new.

 

Google Translate correctly interprets that it's the spark plugs that are new not the candles. Either that, or the OP's problem is bigger than we thought.

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My WAG (not sure how WAG will translate to French) :spittake: would be a plugged vent line. Have you tried opening the gas cap when the engine stops running? Any pressure difference (noise) when doing so? 

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14 hours ago, Rougarou said:

R1150RT 2003, I can drive for hours and suddenly the engine stops and I have to wait for it to cool down to be able to restart it,

 

4 minutes ago, TEWKS said:

My WAG (not how WAG will translate to French) :spittake: would be a plugged vent line. Have you tried opening the gas cap when the engine stops running? Any pressure difference (noise) when doing so? 


The fact that it can take hours to fail rules out fuel tank vacuum.  
 

My 2003RT failed to start one day & it turned out to be a failed spark plug wire (it had a authority grounded ignition system that went to ground thus no spark).  

The issue is thermally induced so recommend checking for spark & fuel during periods of inoperative operation. 

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Joe Frickin' Friday
2 hours ago, ESokoloff said:

The issue is thermally induced so recommend checking for spark & fuel during periods of inoperative operation. 

 

On the '96-'01 oilheads, the crank position sensor ("Hall effect sensor", or "HES") was often to blame when spark and fuel both went away at the same time, and the problem was very sensitive to heat and moisture.  OP's bike is an '03, and I think the HES wiring was improved for these bikes, but it could still be the source of the problem.  

 

Michel, does this happen more often in hot or wet weather than it does in cool or dry weather?

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19 hours ago, Michel Isola said:

Hello motorcycle friends, I have a problem with the engine stop of my BMW R1150RT 2003, I can drive for hours and suddenly the engine stops and I have to wait for it to cool down to be able to restart it, it can take half an hour and more. The cold engine starts like a charm.

The candles are brand new. The battery is very good, the fuel pump is working, the oil is at the right level, does not lack gasoline. Could it be a sensor? Can- Can you help me please?

Thanks in advance!

After Michael 

 

Do you know for sure that it does not lack gasoline? Are you testing for fuel flow out of the fuel return line when cranking the engine? 

 

If it starts when cold, or after sitting  then you would have fuel flow then. You need to test for fuel flow when the motorcycle is not starting or running. 

 

With that fuel pump running, or during engine cranking, you need to see a pencil sized stream of fuel coming out of the fuel return hose coming from the rear of the motorcycle. On your 1150 you will need to use something to hold the internal check valve open in the return hose quick disconnect to see any fuel flow.

 

If you have low, or no, fuel flow out of the rear fuel return hose then suspect a pin hole or small split in the U shaped high pressure hose inside the gasoline tank. (somewhat common to a problem like you are having)

 

The other possibility, seeing as the problem seems to be heat related, is your ignition coil. Very seldom does an 1150 ignition coil fail but it can happen and is usually heat related. You need to check for a spark as soon as the engine quits. If you wait for it to cool down then the coil could be cold enough to start working again. So carry an extra spark plug with you to quickly use to test for a nice snappy bluish colored spark.

 

Can you tell us what the tachometer is doing just before and during the engine quitting?  If you can tell us this then it might gives us a direction and motorcycle system to look at to be able to troubleshoot the problem. 

 

Sorry about typing this in English but I would mass it up so bad trying to use your language that you are probably better off translating my English version.   

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Michel Isola

Thank’s to take Time!

I will chek the fuel pump if it works good.

I use to try another spark plug to chek the spark,no spark.

The tachometer detect no error,works like normal,no lite like chek engine.

when i turn the key to try ,i heard the fuel pump is working and the tank have gaz but no answer…

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Michel Isola said:

Thank’s to take Time!

I will chek the fuel pump if it works good.

I use to try another spark plug to chek the spark,no spark.

The tachometer detect no error,works like normal,no lite like chek engine.

when i turn the key to try ,i heard the fuel pump is working and the tank have gaz but no answer…

 

 

Afternoon Michel

 

I will check the fuel pump if it works good.-- There is way more to this than the fuel pump working good! The fuel pump can work perfectly but if there is a hole in the internal high pressure U  hose that opens up when the hose gets hot then you can still get an engine quit due to lack of gasoline as the pump can't pump the gasoline out of the fuel tank with enough pressure to run the engine.

You need ENOUGH fuel flow at ENOUGH pressure to keep the engine running.  The way to test for this is with a fuel return hose flow test.

 

I use to try another spark plug to check for spark, or no spark. -- Yes, this is a good quick check.

 

The tachometer detect no error, works like normal, no lite like check engine.-- Good, that tells us that the HES (Hall Effect Sensor) is probably not causing your issue and that your Motronic (Fueling Computer) is not losing power.

On the check engine light,   that yellow light is not really a check engine light as it has very little connection to the Motronic fueling computer. That is more of a general warning light for the brake system & and rear tail/brake light operation.

 

when i turn the key to try ,i heard the fuel pump is working and the tank have gaz but no answer…-- Not only does the fuel pump need to work but it needs to be able to pump fuel all the way to the fuel injectors at 40+ PSI pressure. That fuel pump can run and sound like normal but if it only sends 20 psi to the fuel injectors then the  engine won't start or run.

 

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