1150RT cat and O2 sensor

[RT1150Ted]

Hi all;

 

tearing bike down on way to clutch slave replacement…and curious about what others have seen and done;

 

1. O2 sensor sheathing is pulled away from wires. Will heat down there damage wires? Should replace O2 sensor? Are they all like that?

 

2. Catalytic converter clamp bolt came off ..I removed  - pleasant surprise - fairly corroded… should replace with new? And would copper antisieze handle the temps down there?

 

thanks all!

[Shane J.]

That's pretty corroded, has the bike been living by the sea?

The O2 sensor on the rescue bike I am working on had the same sheath gap. I was able to work slack down the line from the other end to close the gap before i installed it. I also don't have the line toucing the cat.

[RT1150Ted]

Re: the Cat bolt……Yea eh? It wasn’t just me…. It looks really rough… I was surprised the nut came off.

 

I think I’ll put a new one on. No not stored outside by the sea :)

Everything else in pretty good shape as I dig deeper. But getting access to the clutch slave on this still abs 2004 R1150RT is nuts. There is corrosion on the clutch slave bleeder which is another thing to change.

 

as I looked at euro motor electric site the O2 sensors all have gaps in the sheathing and the sensor. Sorry to post the question.

 

Ted

[dirtrider]

15 hours ago, RT1150Ted said:

Hi all;

 

tearing bike down on way to clutch slave replacement…and curious about what others have seen and done;

 

1. O2 sensor sheathing is pulled away from wires. Will heat down there damage wires? Should replace O2 sensor? Are they all like that?

 

2. Catalytic converter clamp bolt came off ..I removed  - pleasant surprise - fairly corroded… should replace with new? And would copper antisieze handle the temps down there?

 

thanks all!

Morning Ted

 

1. O2 sensor sheathing is pulled away from wires. Will heat down there damage wires? Should replace O2 sensor? Are they all like that?---  That gap is "normal" at least for your BMW 1150 o2 sensor as the wires are sealed where they enter the o2 sensor body. This isn't that case for all o2 sensors though. Your o2 sensor gets it's external reference air down through the actual wire strands so that gap won't allow any road water or other road crud to get pulled into the o2 sensor with the reference air.  But this isn't the case for ALL o2 sensors as there are a few o2 sensor types (mostly wide band) that do get their external reference air down through the wire sheath so on those it needs to be sealed at the o2 sensor body. So that was a good question to ask. 

 

2. Catalytic converter clamp bolt came off ..I removed  - pleasant surprise - fairly corroded… should replace with new? And would copper antisieze handle the temps down there?--- Probably replacing the clamp is the absolute correct way but that darn clamp is about $40.00 from BMW dealer. I have in the past drilled/ground the factory bolt out then used a stainless steel allen head bolt  in it's place.  The allen head is much easier to keep from spinning using a proper fitting allen wrench. The actual clamp band is stainless steel so that is usually OK as typically those don't corrode.    Cooper anti-seize will sure help but the best is using a high temperature Nickel  based anti-seize. 

[RT1150Ted]

Thanks DR and others.

 

This is related (all part of removal issues)… I removed the rear shock…. and the Shock base - swing arm - bolt was stiff but came out…

 

but the inside threads look terrible..

 

the bolt looks fine. Does BMW use locktite on these.. ? There is no way to heat bolt only.

 

 

[dirtrider]

52 minutes ago, RT1150Ted said:

Thanks DR and others.

 

This is related (all part of removal issues)… I removed the rear shock…. and the Shock base - swing arm - bolt was stiff but came out…

 

but the inside threads look terrible..

 

the bolt looks fine. Does BMW use locktite on these.. ? There is no way to heat bolt only.

 

Evening Ted

 

Those threads look OK, not great but OK.

 

On the bolt, the factory bolt uses a NyLock type compound ( kind of a dry type per-installed LockTite). It is basically a one-time usage bolt but some do use Blue LockTite at reassembly & re-use it.

 

Those bolts are known to break as they only hold the shock on one side & the bolt head does float slightly in the swing arm hole.

 

Personally I usually replace that lower strut bolt on older 1150 bikes as I have seen more than few that broke after 2nd usage. 

[RT1150Ted]

Thanks again DR!

 

I assume it’s an OEM bolt.. you’re right it must get a lot of stress.

 

Ted