Rescue bike rebuild

[Shane J.]

I finally have some time to do the rebuild on this 1150rt. It is a "simple" new clutch and transmission swap. Most of the parts are/were in boxes and bags so I may need some help getting to completion. Right now I am having a challenge getting the driveshaft and that end of the swingarm to slide together. I get the splines lined up I think, but it doesn't want to slide together. Any tips?

[dirtrider]

3 hours ago, Shane J. said:

I finally have some time to do the rebuild on this 1150rt. It is a "simple" new clutch and transmission swap. Most of the parts are/were in boxes and bags so I may need some help getting to completion. Right now I am having a challenge getting the driveshaft and that end of the swingarm to slide together. I get the splines lined up I think, but it doesn't want to slide together. Any tips?

 

 

Afternoon Shane J.

 

You not only need to get the front & rear parts of the drive shaft to slide together but you need to get the front & rear parts in the correct phasing.  

 

You might want to remove the rear part from the final drive, then slide them together (you can see in there to correctly phase it) then hook it to the final drive as you install that. 

 

[Shane J.]

Thanks D.R., So the drive shaft is two pieces? It was in the box looking like you show. I installed the whole thing into the final drive and was then trying to couple it to the swingarm.

 

[dirtrider]

26 minutes ago, Shane J. said:

Thanks D.R., So the drive shaft is two pieces? It was in the box looking like you show. I installed the whole thing into the final drive and was then trying to couple it to the swingarm.

 

Evening Shane J.

 

Will the drive shaft even fit though your swing arm? On the 1150RT the shaft usually won't fit through the swing arm from the rear (shaft has to attach the transmission first then the swing arm slides over it) on most 1150 GS it will slide through from the rear. 

[Shane J.]

I have the driveshaft installed onto the transmission and the swingarm over and attached. It's the piece on the final drive that I am having trouble getting into the driveshaft. How do I remove the final drive piece from the final drive? I tried pulling it out by hand but didn't want to use more force without knowing it's ok.

1 hour ago, Shane J. said:

It was in the box looking like you show.

I just realized this is an incorrect statement. The front part of the driveshaft was in a box, the back piece was already attached to the final drive.

 

[King Herald]

I had my drive shaft out a few months back, to replace the bevel box bushings. I'm sure I heard the two halves were bonded together with rubber so I never even thought about seperating them.  Maybe the 1150rt is different from the 1100r?

 

 Anyway, I had the devils own job of getting it back together, lining up splines when you can't even see them. The front UJ I wrapped some masking tape around to keep it in line while I aligned it and pushed it in.

 

The rear one, I found on the internet about packing some rag underneath it, to hold it central in the swing arm, then the bevel box can be slid in and the spline engaged, and the rag pulled out while there is still a gap. 

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Shane J. said:

I have the driveshaft installed onto the transmission and the swingarm over and attached. It's the piece on the final drive that I am having trouble getting into the driveshaft. How do I remove the final drive piece from the final drive? I tried pulling it out by hand but didn't want to use more force without knowing it's ok.

I just realized this is an incorrect statement. The front part of the driveshaft was in a box, the back piece was already attached to the final drive.

 

Morning  Shane J.

 

If it isn't seized on the splines from corrosion then you can usually just pry the rear U joint part off the final drive pinion splines with a couple of large screwdrivers. 

 

 

 

[Shane J.]

Okay, I had thought about trying that but didn't know if it was correct.

[Shane J.]

5 hours ago, King Herald said:

I had my drive shaft out a few months back, to replace the bevel box bushings. I'm sure I heard the two halves were bonded together with rubber so I never even thought about seperating them.  Maybe the 1150rt is different from the 1100r?

 

 Anyway, I had the devils own job of getting it back together, lining up splines when you can't even see them. The front UJ I wrapped some masking tape around to keep it in line while I aligned it and pushed it in.

 

The rear one, I found on the internet about packing some rag underneath it, to hold it central in the swing arm, then the bevel box can be slid in and the spline engaged, and the rag pulled out while there is still a gap. 

Yes, I have the added difficulty of having the bike on the floor so I have to lay down to see inside the swingarm, and then there is the whole bifocals issue... . I like the rag idea.

[Shane J.]

9 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning  Shane J.

 

If it isn't seized on the splines from corrosion then you can usually just pry the rear U joint part off the final drive pinion splines with a couple of large screwdrivers. 

 

 

 

 

That worked DR. Helped finding out that the driveshaft is three pieces. The screwdrivers prying popped that stern piece right off. I got it installed in-phase, just need to attach the final drive now.

[szurszewski]

I was wondering a week or two ago how this project bike was going for you. Glad to see you're getting it sorted :)

 

 

[dirtrider]

16 hours ago, Shane J. said:

That worked DR. Helped finding out that the driveshaft is three pieces. The screwdrivers prying popped that stern piece right off. I got it installed in-phase, just need to attach the final drive now.

Morning  Shane J.

 

I got busy last night so couldn't get back to this thread. 

 

You really should put some high content moly paste (or high moly content anti-seize)  on those sliding splines as well as on the final drive pinion splines before re-assembly. 

 

You might still have problems hooking the final drive to the swing arm while getting spline engagement, if so then turn the assembled shaft until one of the U joint caps on the rear part is straight up, then lock the trans in gear to prevent shaft rotation, then remove the rear part & put on the final drive first, then attempt to attach the final drive while sliding the shaft parts together  (the rag with a sting or wire hooked to it can work to hold front shaft up, or something stiff in through the pivot hole.  

 

 

[Shane J.]

Good advice D.R., I did buy the special lubricating grease along with the new clutch disc and have been applying it as I go along. I am hoping to get back to it tonight.

[JamesW]

Umm...maybe recycle it?  Just kidding...sort of. lol..lol..

[Shane J.]

3 hours ago, JamesW said:

Umm...maybe recycle it?  Just kidding...sort of. lol..lol..

Never!! LOL...  Seriously, the bike only has 27000 miles on it. Once I get it back together it will be a great bike. It's just a challenge because i didn't do the original deconstruction and the parts aren't labeled. I did a transmission swap with a new clutch on this model once before so I know I can do it again.

[Shane J.]

Made some progress on my lunch break. Final drive is connected to the driveshaft, just need to secure the boot. The hardware is kind of labeled in separate baggies. This one has me stumped. It's labeled transmission, but I don't recognize the two headless bolts that have a screwdriver slot. I don't find them in the parts fiche (I use the one at Max BMW). Any guesses? Maybe they are already installed in the new used transmission I put on?

[Shane J.]

Maybe they are #7 & #5 in this diagram? If so, I won't need them.

[RT1150Ted]

Since I am in the process of doing the opposite… tearing my R1150RT down those look the the Transmission alignment bolts used to put transmission on…. So if transmission is on they have done their job.

 

ted

[9Mary7]

IIRC..... the slot is so they can be removed once the trans is on and secured.

[Shane J.]

On 2/21/2023 at 9:44 PM, szurszewski said:

I was wondering a week or two ago how this project bike was going for you. Glad to see you're getting it sorted :)

 

 

Hi Josh- Yes, it has been a busy winter but I got the house permit signed off so I have some time for other projects.

[Shane J.]

14 hours ago, RT1150Ted said:

Since I am in the process of doing the opposite… tearing my R1150RT down those look the the Transmission alignment bolts used to put transmission on…. So if transmission is on they have done their job.

 

ted

That makes sense, I just used some pins I had. Although they look well used. Maybe the PO had a set laying around. Doesn't sound like something the bike would have come from the factory with.

If you Youtube, The BMW Guy has good videos for this.

[Shane J.]

Well I got this bike back together and fired it up with some fresh gas. Started right up and runs great. But after I shut it down I could smell gas, and found a quick disconnect leaking. I found it was cracked, so I have some new metal ones coming. Other than that, I think it will just be put on the body panels and ride once the snow is off the roads.

[Shane J.]

I was able to get out for a test ride yesterday. The bike ran great! I did some country roads, went into town and filled the tank with non-ethanol premium, got on the freeway and ran it up to 80, then came on back home. This bike felt so right that I am tempted to keep it and sell my 1200rt. I had forgotten how nimble the 1150's are, especially with the servo pump removed. I really like the 1200, but it is big and heavy. I also like that I know how to disassemble the 1150 and put it back together. With the new clutch disc and replaced transmission it should be good for 30000 miles even if the splines decide to wear out. What to do, what to do...

[Hosstage]

It is a conundrum!

[szurszewski]

That's a good color too.... 

[Shane J.]

One my favorite colors. And I love the body contours way more than the transformer look. The 1150 body reminds me of the Buell S2 in that it is just drop dead gorgeous.