1997 r1100gs transmission internals

[Avian]

Long story short I rode my overhauled GS1100 too hard broke the transmission. Intermediate shaft and possibly more! haven't Cracked it open yet. Which year and model internals fit? R1150? R1100 RT R? Thank you.

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, Avian said:

Long story short I rode my overhauled GS1100 too hard broke the transmission. Intermediate shaft and possibly more! haven't Cracked it open yet. Which year and model internals fit? R1150? R1100 RT R? Thank you.

Morning  Avian

 

None of the 1150 6 speed transmissions will work.

 

Most of the later 1100RT & R will work but the early 1100 transmissions had "O" ring gear sets with undercut differences. 

 

If you want to swap parts around then match the transmission year as close as you can to what you have now. If you just want to install the entire transmission then the later the better.  

 

A number of parts will swap out between the M93, M94, & the M97 but a large number of parts can't be swapped out between the M93, M94, & the M97.

 

There were basically 3 different transmissions used in the 1100, with 2 different transmission colors (silver or black).

 

The M93 was used on the very early 1100 motorcycles. The M94 was used up into the early 1996 model year. The M97 was used from mid 1996 up to end or production. 

 

If you want to swap parts then match your replacement to your current transmission model.

 

If you want to simply replace then look for the M97 as that had some decent improvements over the  M93 & M94.

 

Before totally tearing your transmission apart you might make sure that your drive shaft didn't fail as there is a rubber joint between the front & rear part of the drive shaft that can fail then you lose forward drive.  

 

 

 

[Jim Moore]

Adding to that, the M97 was introduced in middle of the 1997 model year. To make sure you get an M97 you need to find a transmission from a 98 or 99 bike.

 

Here is my R1100transmission R&R step-by-step. I never remember why I do things in this order, but I know that if I do it differently I normally have to go back and do it again.

 

Oilhead R1100RS Transmission Removal

1.     Strap Front Wheel

2.     Loosen intake tubes and slide into airbox (Done at this time to make it easier to pull fuel lines out)

3.     Remove tank

a.     Disconnect fuel lines

b.     Disconnect vent lines

c.      Unbolt front of tank

d.     Disconnect fuel electronic connector

4.     Remove rear side fairings

5.     Remove battery

6.     Remove battery box bolts

7.     Remove starter.

8.     Disconnect electronics (neutral and gear indicator switches on left, ABS and rear brake light switches on right)

9.     Loosen

a.     Pins (both sides)

b.     Subframe Bolts (8)

c.      Exhaust bolts

d.     Shock bolts

e.     Torque arm bolts

10.Remove rear caliper

11. Remove rear wheel

12. Remove left footrest

13. Remove right footrest (leave it hanging by caliper and ABS assembly)

14.Remove exhaust

15. Remove final drive (Unbolt pins and front of torque arm)

16.Remove swingarm

17. Reinstall right footrest (one bolt)

18. Drain transmission oil

19. Remove right-front seat post

20. Remove rear shock

21. Remove airbox bolts (two in front, one in air filter housing)

22. Strap rear subframe

23. Remove subframe bolts (4)

24. Loosen subframe through-bolt

25. Ensure ABS lines are disconnected from rear subframe

26. Lift subframe

27. Unbolt injectors at throttle bodies

28.Remove airbox

29. Remove right footrest and leave it hanging

30. Unbolt bottom-right and top-left transmission bolts.

31. Install pins

32. Unbolt other transmission bolts

33. Slide transmission back. Use crowbar to hold battery box up so posts clear.

34. Locate clutch pushrod

Installation

35. Insert pushrod

36. Install transmission (22 nm)

37. Reattach ABS lines to transmission

38. Adjust clutch if necessary

39. Install battery box nuts

40. Seat airbox

41. Attach engine breather. It goes BELOW the throttle cable.

42.Install driveshaft.

43.  Lower subframe (watch electrical connectors) and install bolts (47 nm: Right-rear, right-front, left-front, left-rear)

44. Tighten through-bolt. 47 nm.

45. Install airbox bolts

46.Attach injectors

47.Install air filter and airbox lid.

48.Install shock (43 nm top and bottom) Do not tighten.

49. Install swingarm. (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

50. Tighten shock (43 nm)

51. Install final drive (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

52. Install torque arm (43 nm)

53.Install Starter

54. Install foot rests (22 nm)

55. Install Exhaust (20 ft-lb in back. 50 nm at the joint)

56. Reconnect electronics

57.Install rear wheel (77 ft-lb)

58. Install rear caliper (40 nm)

59.  Install battery

60. Install fuel tank

61. Install panels

[Avian]

9 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning  Avian

 

None of the 1150 6 speed transmissions will work.

 

Most of the later 1100RT & R will work but the early 1100 transmissions had "O" ring gear sets with undercut differences. 

 

If you want to swap parts around then match the transmission year as close as you can to what you have now. If you just want to install the entire transmission then the later the better.  

 

A number of parts will swap out between the M93, M94, & the M97 but a large number of parts can't be swapped out between the M93, M94, & the M97.

 

There were basically 3 different transmissions used in the 1100, with 2 different transmission colors (silver or black).

 

The M93 was used on the very early 1100 motorcycles. The M94 was used up into the early 1996 model year. The M97 was used from mid 1996 up to end or production. 

 

If you want to swap parts then match your replacement to your current transmission model.

 

If you want to simply replace then look for the M97 as that had some decent improvements over the  M93 & M94.

 

Before totally tearing your transmission apart you might make sure that your drive shaft didn't fail as there is a rubber joint between the front & rear part of the drive shaft that can fail then you lose forward drive.  

 

 

 

Hi thank you. Mine is 97 so I think its m97. Drive shaft is new. It's 100% the transmission intermediate shaft.

[Avian]

8 hours ago, Jim Moore said:

Adding to that, the M97 was introduced in middle of the 1997 model year. To make sure you get an M97 you need to find a transmission from a 98 or 99 bike.

 

Here is my R1100transmission R&R step-by-step. I never remember why I do things in this order, but I know that if I do it differently I normally have to go back and do it again.

 

Oilhead R1100RS Transmission Removal

1.     Strap Front Wheel

2.     Loosen intake tubes and slide into airbox (Done at this time to make it easier to pull fuel lines out)

3.     Remove tank

a.     Disconnect fuel lines

b.     Disconnect vent lines

c.      Unbolt front of tank

d.     Disconnect fuel electronic connector

4.     Remove rear side fairings

5.     Remove battery

6.     Remove battery box bolts

7.     Remove starter.

8.     Disconnect electronics (neutral and gear indicator switches on left, ABS and rear brake light switches on right)

9.     Loosen

a.     Pins (both sides)

b.     Subframe Bolts (8)

c.      Exhaust bolts

d.     Shock bolts

e.     Torque arm bolts

10.Remove rear caliper

11. Remove rear wheel

12. Remove left footrest

13. Remove right footrest (leave it hanging by caliper and ABS assembly)

14.Remove exhaust

15. Remove final drive (Unbolt pins and front of torque arm)

16.Remove swingarm

17. Reinstall right footrest (one bolt)

18. Drain transmission oil

19. Remove right-front seat post

20. Remove rear shock

21. Remove airbox bolts (two in front, one in air filter housing)

22. Strap rear subframe

23. Remove subframe bolts (4)

24. Loosen subframe through-bolt

25. Ensure ABS lines are disconnected from rear subframe

26. Lift subframe

27. Unbolt injectors at throttle bodies

28.Remove airbox

29. Remove right footrest and leave it hanging

30. Unbolt bottom-right and top-left transmission bolts.

31. Install pins

32. Unbolt other transmission bolts

33. Slide transmission back. Use crowbar to hold battery box up so posts clear.

34. Locate clutch pushrod

Installation

35. Insert pushrod

36. Install transmission (22 nm)

37. Reattach ABS lines to transmission

38. Adjust clutch if necessary

39. Install battery box nuts

40. Seat airbox

41. Attach engine breather. It goes BELOW the throttle cable.

42.Install driveshaft.

43.  Lower subframe (watch electrical connectors) and install bolts (47 nm: Right-rear, right-front, left-front, left-rear)

44. Tighten through-bolt. 47 nm.

45. Install airbox bolts

46.Attach injectors

47.Install air filter and airbox lid.

48.Install shock (43 nm top and bottom) Do not tighten.

49. Install swingarm. (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

50. Tighten shock (43 nm)

51. Install final drive (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

52. Install torque arm (43 nm)

53.Install Starter

54. Install foot rests (22 nm)

55. Install Exhaust (20 ft-lb in back. 50 nm at the joint)

56. Reconnect electronics

57.Install rear wheel (77 ft-lb)

58. Install rear caliper (40 nm)

59.  Install battery

60. Install fuel tank

61. Install panels

Appreciate you. Found a 1998 R1100RT trans for cheap all gears in good shape 👍 

[dirtrider]

21 minutes ago, Avian said:

Hi thank you. Mine is 97 so I think its m97. Drive shaft is new. It's 100% the transmission intermediate shaft.

Afternoon  Avian

 

Yes, your 1997 should have the M 97 as the M97 was phased into production about April or May of 1996 (just slightly before 1997 production began).  

 

The usual problem with the  M97 is the rear bearing to gear contact then resulting wear. (check your PM  messages on this site as I sent your some info on that)

[Avian]

37 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon  Avian

 

Yes, your 1997 should have the M 97 as the M97 was phased into production about April or May of 1996 (just slightly before 1997 production began).  

 

The usual problem with the  M97 is the rear bearing to gear contact then resulting wear. (check your PM  messages on this site as I sent your some info on that)

Thank you sir

9 hours ago, Jim Moore said:

Adding to that, the M97 was introduced in middle of the 1997 model year. To make sure you get an M97 you need to find a transmission from a 98 or 99 bike.

 

Here is my R1100transmission R&R step-by-step. I never remember why I do things in this order, but I know that if I do it differently I normally have to go back and do it again.

 

Oilhead R1100RS Transmission Removal

1.     Strap Front Wheel

2.     Loosen intake tubes and slide into airbox (Done at this time to make it easier to pull fuel lines out)

3.     Remove tank

a.     Disconnect fuel lines

b.     Disconnect vent lines

c.      Unbolt front of tank

d.     Disconnect fuel electronic connector

4.     Remove rear side fairings

5.     Remove battery

6.     Remove battery box bolts

7.     Remove starter.

8.     Disconnect electronics (neutral and gear indicator switches on left, ABS and rear brake light switches on right)

9.     Loosen

a.     Pins (both sides)

b.     Subframe Bolts (8)

c.      Exhaust bolts

d.     Shock bolts

e.     Torque arm bolts

10.Remove rear caliper

11. Remove rear wheel

12. Remove left footrest

13. Remove right footrest (leave it hanging by caliper and ABS assembly)

14.Remove exhaust

15. Remove final drive (Unbolt pins and front of torque arm)

16.Remove swingarm

17. Reinstall right footrest (one bolt)

18. Drain transmission oil

19. Remove right-front seat post

20. Remove rear shock

21. Remove airbox bolts (two in front, one in air filter housing)

22. Strap rear subframe

23. Remove subframe bolts (4)

24. Loosen subframe through-bolt

25. Ensure ABS lines are disconnected from rear subframe

26. Lift subframe

27. Unbolt injectors at throttle bodies

28.Remove airbox

29. Remove right footrest and leave it hanging

30. Unbolt bottom-right and top-left transmission bolts.

31. Install pins

32. Unbolt other transmission bolts

33. Slide transmission back. Use crowbar to hold battery box up so posts clear.

34. Locate clutch pushrod

Installation

35. Insert pushrod

36. Install transmission (22 nm)

37. Reattach ABS lines to transmission

38. Adjust clutch if necessary

39. Install battery box nuts

40. Seat airbox

41. Attach engine breather. It goes BELOW the throttle cable.

42.Install driveshaft.

43.  Lower subframe (watch electrical connectors) and install bolts (47 nm: Right-rear, right-front, left-front, left-rear)

44. Tighten through-bolt. 47 nm.

45. Install airbox bolts

46.Attach injectors

47.Install air filter and airbox lid.

48.Install shock (43 nm top and bottom) Do not tighten.

49. Install swingarm. (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

50. Tighten shock (43 nm)

51. Install final drive (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

52. Install torque arm (43 nm)

53.Install Starter

54. Install foot rests (22 nm)

55. Install Exhaust (20 ft-lb in back. 50 nm at the joint)

56. Reconnect electronics

57.Install rear wheel (77 ft-lb)

58. Install rear caliper (40 nm)

59.  Install battery

60. Install fuel tank

61. Install panels

Appreciate you. Found a 1998 R1100RT trans for cheap all gears in good shape 👍