1997 R1100 Flashing ABS and clock resetting

[ush1000]

Hi I have the classic ABS fault, have new battery fitted and have done the reset. Basically both lights on solid with ignition on, then alternate flashing when moving. Bike is new to me, fairly good condition with some service history, spoke with previous owner, he said sometimes ABS didn't start working until his second or 3rd journey. Bike has been idle since start of Covid, March 2020. Is it possible pump needs a few gentle taps with a blunt instrument? Also I notice the clock resets to zero every time I switch the engine off, is this user error? 

Thanks

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, ush1000 said:

Hi I have the classic ABS fault, have new battery fitted and have done the reset. Basically both lights on solid with ignition on, then alternate flashing when moving. Bike is new to me, fairly good condition with some service history, spoke with previous owner, he said sometimes ABS didn't start working until his second or 3rd journey. Bike has been idle since start of Covid, March 2020. Is it possible pump needs a few gentle taps with a blunt instrument? Also I notice the clock resets to zero every time I switch the engine off, is this user error? 

Thanks

Afternoon  ush1000

 

EXACTLY WHEN do the lights go from solid on to alternately flashing????? We need you to narrow that down in more detail than just "moving".

 

Does it default when the engine is started? Or after you start moving? Or some other time?

 

What happens if you stop then shut the engine off, then do a restart after riding a mile or so? Does this make it work correctly (answering this can also help point a finger at the problem) .

[ush1000]

Ah ok yes lights start flashing as soon as engine starts before moving at all. I did try stopping a few times and switching off engine then going through same startup. No change. Which kind of makes me think piston stuck in ABS unit?

 

 

Thanks for reply

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, ush1000 said:

Ah ok yes lights start flashing as soon as engine starts before moving at all. I did try stopping a few times and switching off engine then going through same startup. No change. Which kind of makes me think piston stuck in ABS unit?

 

 

Thanks for reply

Afternoon  ush1000

 

Usually something like a stuck piston doesn't show up until the ABS ride-off check as you roll off  (that is that Ruppppp sound that you hear when they are working OK).

 

An  (at start-up issue)   is typically low voltage, ether from cable connection issues, or battery issues, or even a starter that draws too much current.

 

If you have a voltmeter then put it on the 20v dc scale, then hook it across the battery posts, then do an engine start. If you see below 10.5 volts then find out why that is happening. 

 

If you have, or can find, an old analog (swinging needle) voltmeter in the 12 volt range you can use that on the diagnostic connector to count the needle swings as that can give you an ABS failure code or codes.  

 

You can probably do it with a small 12v LED also. 

[man1nvan]

This helped me diagnose my problems  http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

[ush1000]

Thanks for that handy abs link!!

Right, here is an update, been a bit busy so bike has not been fiddled with for awhile.

Took the bike to an independent BMW specialist who ran a diagnostic and found no fault with ABS. As suggested above during startup the voltage drops below 10.5 v which prevents ABS starting up, hence flashing lights. He suggested looking at starter motor problem (thanks Oracle).

Reckon I have 4 choices, buy a starter repair kit , buy a second hand starter motor, buy a refurbished starter or buy a new starter . Quite a price difference between options. I would like to try the cheapest of course, I do like fiddling. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

I will do a search on here for starter motor threads.

 

Cheers

[dirtrider]

8 minutes ago, ush1000 said:

Thanks for that handy abs link!!

Right, here is an update, been a bit busy so bike has not been fiddled with for awhile.

Took the bike to an independent BMW specialist who ran a diagnostic and found no fault with ABS. As suggested above during startup the voltage drops below 10.5 v which prevents ABS starting up, hence flashing lights. He suggested looking at starter motor problem (thanks Oracle).

Reckon I have 4 choices, buy a starter repair kit , buy a second hand starter motor, buy a refurbished starter or buy a new starter . Quite a price difference between options. I would like to try the cheapest of course, I do like fiddling. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

I will do a search on here for starter motor threads.

 

Cheers

Morning ush1000

 

If you are SURE that your battery is good & that it is rated at enough cranking amps  for your motorcycle then that probably leaves a starter that draws too much current during cranking,  or you have high resistance in your starter cables or starter ground circuit, or something else is causing high starter current draw during engine cranking. 

 

If it is now cold cranking OK then you might do a voltage drop test on the starter B+ cable (battery B+ post to starter big cable stud)  and a voltage drop test  between battery (-) post and starter housing. 

 

If it cranks & starts OK then there is another option, that is to add a momentary push button  switch in the ABS (ign +) green wire. That can then be pushed to reset the ABS AFTER engine starting so the ABS does it prechecks with engine running & plenty of voltage.  

[ush1000]

Thanks Dirtrider, the guy who ran the diagnostic was happy with my battery. I,m going to firstly have a fiddle with my starter motor and see where that takes me, may be a couple of weeks as struggling for me time!

Cheers

[man1nvan]

i used this from oinkoink as a guide and wired in an on off switch i just turn it on when the engine is running,  or off if i am on gravel . works like a dream and cost nothing.

 

[ush1000]

That's brilliant thankyou!!!! 

 

[ush1000]

On 3/7/2023 at 3:50 PM, dirtrider said:

Morning ush1000

 

If you are SURE that your battery is good & that it is rated at enough cranking amps  for your motorcycle then that probably leaves a starter that draws too much current during cranking,  or you have high resistance in your starter cables or starter ground circuit, or something else is causing high starter current draw during engine cranking. 

 

If it is now cold cranking OK then you might do a voltage drop test on the starter B+ cable (battery B+ post to starter big cable stud)  and a voltage drop test  between battery (-) post and starter housing. 

 

If it cranks & starts OK then there is another option, that is to add a momentary push button  switch in the ABS (ign +) green wire. That can then be pushed to reset the ABS AFTER engine starting so the ABS does it prechecks with engine running & plenty of voltage.  

Hi again,

 

I am intending to add a switch as you suggested in your last paragraph. Am way out of my comfort zone lol but will get this sorted eventually. I am going to buy a used ABS dash switch from ebay which I think will work ok as its just a momentary push button switch and will fit into my dash where the existing unused alarm indicator lives, yes?

Now how do I find the green wire from the ABS? Im struggling to remove the multi pin connector from the ABS unit, its free at the bottom when I release the clip but seems stuck at the top? Or can I trace the green wire from somewhere else?

Thanks

[dirtrider]

On 4/8/2023 at 4:11 AM, ush1000 said:

Hi again,

 

I am intending to add a switch as you suggested in your last paragraph. Am way out of my comfort zone lol but will get this sorted eventually. I am going to buy a used ABS dash switch from ebay which I think will work ok as its just a momentary push button switch and will fit into my dash where the existing unused alarm indicator lives, yes?

Now how do I find the green wire from the ABS? Im struggling to remove the multi pin connector from the ABS unit, its free at the bottom when I release the clip but seems stuck at the top? Or can I trace the green wire from somewhere else?

Thanks

Morning ush1000

 

You need a switch that is normally closed then goes open when pushed, or an off/on switch. You can't use a switch that is normally open then goes closed (makes contact)  when pushed. 

 

That ABS connector, once loose, should tilt to unhook.

 

I'm not near my wire diagrams at the moment but  I believe there should be just 2 green wires going to that connector, one is for a wheel speed sensor & the other is the correct green 12v ignition switch ON wire. If you have a 12v voltmeter, or 12v test light, then just test both green wires while you turn the key on & off. Then one that goes on & off with the key is the correct green wire. (you will probably have to remove the wire cover covering the back of the connector to expose & trace the correct green wire.

[ush1000]

Cool very helpful again, will find an on/off switch and start fiddling with the connector. Whilst muttering under my breath sussen fussen russen rickerack

[ush1000]

Right then, final update! Installed the on/off switch as described above and ta daaaaaa all sorted. If the alternate flashing ABS lights appear when starting the engine, toggle the switch to the off position, one ABS light goes out, one light stays perm on. Flick switch back on and both ABS lights flash together as they should for normal operation. Snick into first gear, pull away and hey presto, you hear the brrrrrrp and the ABS lights go out.

 

So so grateful to you and the forum for helping me with this. All we need now is some decent warm weather so we can enjoy a few rides

 

Thanks again