Engine Cutting Out Underway

[Brucifer1150]

'02 1150 RT. 70k on the clock.

 

Cut out on the freeway. Pulled over, just cranked with no start. Sat for a bit and tried again. Started and made it home (30 miles).

 

Week or two later, coming back from a 15 mile run, cuts out again. Sat for longer, trying to start from time to time. Fired back up, made it about 3 miles, cut out again. Sit again. Fires up and make it home.

 

Searches point to HES. It's good. Wiggled ignition wiring with no flickering on the RID or anywhere else.

 

Guesses?

[Skywagon]

HES or quick disconnects is my first guess

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Brucifer1150 said:

'02 1150 RT. 70k on the clock.

 

Cut out on the freeway. Pulled over, just cranked with no start. Sat for a bit and tried again. Started and made it home (30 miles).

 

Week or two later, coming back from a 15 mile run, cuts out again. Sat for longer, trying to start from time to time. Fired back up, made it about 3 miles, cut out again. Sit again. Fires up and make it home.

 

Searches point to HES. It's good. Wiggled ignition wiring with no flickering on the RID or anywhere else.

 

Guesses?

Morning Brucifer1150

 

Could be the HES but if it has been dry (dry roads) and the bike not washed in a while then possibly something else, like a split or crack or pin hole in the in-tank high pressure U shaped fuel hose.  

 

Or even something like a plugged fuel filter. 

 

Was your tachometer working OK right up until the engine quitting? An erratic fluctuating tachometer can be a sign that your HES is the issue.  

 

On the 1150 the HES is less likely to fail than on the 1100 motorcycles.  

 

A fuel return hose flow test would probably be a good starting place. But if it is running OK now then that might not show the problem. 

 

 

[Brucifer1150]

3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Brucifer1150

 

Could be the HES but if it has been dry (dry roads) and the bike not washed in a while then possibly something else, like a split or crack or pin hole in the in-tank high pressure U shaped fuel hose.  

 

Or even something like a plugged fuel filter. 

 

Was your tachometer working OK right up until the engine quitting? An erratic fluctuating tachometer can be a sign that your HES is the issue.  

 

On the 1150 the HES is less likely to fail than on the 1100 motorcycles.  

 

A fuel return hose flow test would probably be a good starting place. But if it is running OK now then that might not show the problem. 

 

 

HES has been bench tested and good. Wasn't looking at the tach when it happened. When I got the bike, all fluids had been recently changed and with new lines and hose clamps, I didn't take the tank apart to change anything there. I guess I'll start draining the fuel out to see what is going on inside. I have all the parts, just never tore that far into it.

[dirtrider]

35 minutes ago, Brucifer1150 said:

HES has been bench tested and good. Wasn't looking at the tach when it happened. When I got the bike, all fluids had been recently changed and with new lines and hose clamps, I didn't take the tank apart to change anything there. I guess I'll start draining the fuel out to see what is going on inside. I have all the parts, just never tore that far into it.

Morning Brucifer1150

 

Just keep in mind that an HES can bench test just fine but totally fail when back on the motorcycle & the wiring pigtail gest damp or wet. 

 

Watch the tac as that is typically a good indication that the HES signal is acting strange. 

[Brucifer1150]

3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Brucifer1150

 

Just keep in mind that an HES can bench test just fine but totally fail when back on the motorcycle & the wiring pigtail gest damp or wet. 

 

Watch the tac as that is typically a good indication that the HES signal is acting strange. 

Thanks, DR.

 

Reto said that my HES had the updated wiring and it passed his heat stress testing. He's thinking it could be a coil, but I guess I can replace that easily enough if the tank/filter hardware looks good/replaced.

[Hadabadachada]

I’ll delete this and post it new, gotcha, but hey! 
 

im

rooting for the original poster! Come check my story! Same kinda deal!

[dirtrider]

41 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

I’ll just post here instead of starting a new new one. 
I’ve recently been having more and more of this. 
starts up fine but on the highway, on a backroad, it’s happened all over, bike won’t crank back for a few minutes but then it starts normal and goes normal. 
last night it did it leaving work. And wouldn’t start for 30 minutes then it started made it 70 feet and died again. 
seems to still have power, it’s just like the fuel is cut.

 

current fuel pump and filter have less than 15,000 miles on them, hoses are all new. After last night I got in there and replaced the pressure regulator, but same thing happened out for lunch, luckily it started after 5 minutes. 
 

ive also felt it stutter too, like gas is cut and back, doesn’t quite die, keeps going.

ive noticed it usually only happens in the later side of the warm up time frame, not cold but not fully warm. 
today at lunch and the other day before trying to go fishing, bike had been stopped for about an hour not fully cold but still warm, try to start and it won’t start. Made me wonder if it’s some kinda temp sensor or something, something is faulting.

that night I decided to pull the plugs and test them, all sparked beautifully. 
somethibg to do with the fuel flow and/or electric…
 

HES is maybe 25,000 miles old ive replaced that. It’s gotta be some kinda electrical/computer thing. Or maybe the filter has clogged early, maybe the hose has leak, maybe the new pump is faulting/shorting….who knows.

 

oh yeah; and when it dies and I cycle it off and on, I always hear the fuel pump, so that seems to be working, but maybe not. Shrug

there just doesn’t seem like an easy way to check these thing because it happens randomly and disappears 

Afternoon  Hadabadachada

 

You need to start your OWN thread on your problem. Tying it on here is hijacking "Brucifer1150's" thread.

Plus I believe you have a 2004 S &  Brucifer1150's bike is a 2002 1150rt so the ignition system is different as well as the Motronic is different. 

 

This thread will go all sideways when we start mixing the 2 different motorcycles as far as troubleshooting goes.  

 

When you start your new thread on your motorcycle please tell us if you are still running the af-xied? 

[Randyjaco]

If all else fails, you might try replacing your fuel pump.

[Red]

could it be a plugged vent on your gas cap?  

I had something similar on my 96RT.  I was using cling wrap under my bmw tank bag to prevent scratching the paint.  Occasionally the cling wrap would plug the vent hole and it would either buck and snort for a while or totally quit until it could breath again.

[dirtrider]

21 minutes ago, Red said:

could it be a plugged vent on your gas cap?  

I had something similar on my 96RT.  I was using cling wrap under my bmw tank bag to prevent scratching the paint.  Occasionally the cling wrap would plug the vent hole and it would either buck and snort for a while or totally quit until it could breath again.

Afternoon Red

 

The gas cap (fuel filler cap) on the 1150RT is not vented to atmosphere, the tank venting is through a separate hose. On U.S. 1150 bikes that vent goes to the evaporation canister. On non-US bikes &  converted bikes the tank is just vented to atmosphere through that remote vent hose. 

 

Even so, as a rule, if the tank vent hose or evap canister is plugged then the tank vacuum lowers  the internal tank pressure to below atmospheric pressure so the atmospheric pressure just crushes the plastic tank in & that crushes the fuel gauge sender tube, So with a plugged vent that is run long enough to crush the tank in enough to stop the engine (takes a looong time)  after that the fuel gauge will not work properly)