'19 1250 RT original battery?

[wbw6cos]

The battery that came with the bike,  when new, has seemed to lost its strength.  

 

Not to start an coveted battery thread, but how long should they last on the RT?

 

41,xxx miles.   Daily commute (20 miles) with speeds above 45 mph.  Rides include ARTs and the Un, with a few weekend lunch rides.  I open the top case in the dark garage to use the light, long enough to gear up.  Fire it up and go.

 

I had a few failure-to-start issues with gas stops.  Last night, the bike failed to start. I hit the starter button, half a crank, then nothing.  Second attempt yields nothing.   I power it off wait a few minutes and try again.  No luck.  Four or five times in a row, nothing.  I finally let it sit for about 10 minutes and she fired right up.  I ride home and after that 5 minutes, the bike fired right up after shut it off in the garage.

 

Also, what type of voltage should I be getting when it cranks?

 

I am going to measure using the SAE 2-prong harness which is wired directly to the battery, while still on the bike.  

 

I have a new battery on order and should be here by Thursday.  Until then, I have to drive my square boxy car.  

 

Thanks!

[Boxflyer]

Hi William,

My 2016 RT battery left me stranded at the 2 1/2yr and 45k mark.  Very inconvenient during the first leg of a 5k ride.

Here is an article I wrote on the BMWMOA forum...I liked the fact that my replacement battery was a Group 20 instead of the standard Group 16 battery.

 

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?99497-Replacement-Battery-Info-for-R1200RT-WetHead-R1250RT-ShiftHead&highlight=

 

[strataj]

I went through 2 BMW branded batteries each about the 2 year mark in my 14R1200RT.  I sold the bike with a 4 year old Yuasa YTX20CH-BS.  When they die they go fast, at the first sign of a weak battery I replace.  

[wbw6cos]

Hi Brad, I remember you posting about battery fitment,  but I failed, miserably, to comprehend the part about your battery leaving you stranded.    Probably the reason you posted about specific-sized battery for the Wethead RT. 

 

What about the voltage drop during cranking?

[wbw6cos]

Just an update to the battery voltage readings.

 

24 hours later:

 

Resting:  12.98 v

Ignition on:  12.43 v

Cranking:  (1st try) 10.5 v   Started right up.  Then shut it off to crank again.

Cranking:  (2nd try) saw 9.76 v, then a quick drop to 5.45 v.

 

There was a hesitation on the 2nd attempt, which took two button pushes; it did start, though.

 

New battery is being shipped.

 

 

[9Mary7]

My 2005 R1200ST is on its second BMW battery........first one replaced in 2013 when it was still fine, just 8 years old. Replacement is still in it and my son says it's working fine...........

FWIW the bike is always on a tender when ever it is parked at home.......Always.

[wbw6cos]

I have a PC 680 in my R 1200 C and I usually get 6 - 7 years out of it.   I rotate commuting on both bikes on an every-other-week basis, and use the C-Tek battery maintainer in snowflake mode when the C sits for a while.  The R 12 C does not have all the extra electronics that the RT has.  Old school one week, and modern ride the next.   

[Bill Murray]

William, a timely topic. My '21 R1250GSA has begun having similar starting issues. When the bike fails to start, I get half a turn of the engine, then nothing. Another press of the start button yields nothing. I have to cycle the bike power off, then back on to attempt another start. The second try has aways started. So far...

 

I contacted the dealer (Eurosport Asheville), but without seeing the bike, they could tell me much. They said they can test the battery, and if it is bad and is the original battery (it is) and less than two years old (it is), they can warranty replace it. I hope to get there soon for my 18k service.

 

In the interim, until I can get the battery replaced, I am carrying a Noco branded battery booster, just in case.

 

The bike has been ridden at least every week and kept on a BMW charger (appropriate for AGM type batteries) since I bought the bike. Seems like awfully short battery life to me.

 

[Bernie]

Don’t forget to check all the wire connections. I replaced my battery after 3 years, because of the occasional poor start or the occasional black out during starting procedure. After I replaced the battery, I still have this problem every once in a while. I redid the wire connections on the starter relay and on the starter. This reduced the frequency of the problem.

[wbw6cos]

New battery arrived a day early.   

 

I did find the bolt for Negative side just a tad too loose.   It seemed like it could have been tightened a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.    The technician  who last touched is to blame.  With all the add-ons, such as Darla lights, Billie Brake light, dash cam, and Garmin Trace wires they start to add up.  I will need to revisit wire placement as the top of the battery clearance (Clarence) is a little tight.  What a pain removing/installing the battery retaining cover.  

 

Had to reprogram time correctly.  Service minder light came on.  I think my CanBus opener is still programmed correctly for the Darlas.  Will check Billie Jr. brake light this evening. 

 

I let the battery sit overnight on the Ctek 4.3 maintainer to get some green indication lights on it.

 

Ready for a lunch ride to Yoder's Deutsch Haus on Saturday!    

 

Thanks y'all!

 

 

[MikeB60]

Sounds like I need to bring a battery tester to lunch on Saturday!

[realshelby]

In my 14 RT I have had 4 batteries in it. One did not last a full year, left me stranded on the way to Death Valley.....I now pay a lot of attention to cranking speed. These engines are high compression and take some torque to roll over. If not sounding just right.....I am ready to order another battery. The only battery I have had for an extended period and was still good when I traded the bike was an Odyssey. Not available for the Wetheads......

 

Then there are the original starting batteries in my motorhome. Just checked them again yesterday. With leads unhooked overnight, still show 12.6 and 12.7 volts. Engine cranks over at good speed. These are from late 2013............

 

I think motorcycles are just harder on batteries than other vehicles. So replace if there is any thought that it isn't cranking like it should or if it ever doesn't want to turn over.  

[Hosstage]

Loose connections can be traced to many starting and running issues rather than blaming the battery, but loose connections can also affect battery life. It is prudent to check the terminal connections occasionally. Always one of the first checks when any type of electrical or running issues occur.

[longjohn]

I commuted to work (10mi on 405 freeway) on my pacific coast for about 15 yrs, and the oem battery lasted 11.  It was an amazingly reliable machine. 

[Dann]

On 12/6/2022 at 8:34 AM, wbw6cos said:

The battery that came with the bike,  when new, has seemed to lost its strength.  

 

Not to start an coveted battery thread, but how long should they last on the RT?

 

41,xxx miles.   Daily commute (20 miles) with speeds above 45 mph.  Rides include ARTs and the Un, with a few weekend lunch rides.  I open the top case in the dark garage to use the light, long enough to gear up.  Fire it up and go.

 

I had a few failure-to-start issues with gas stops.  Last night, the bike failed to start. I hit the starter button, half a crank, then nothing.  Second attempt yields nothing.   I power it off wait a few minutes and try again.  No luck.  Four or five times in a row, nothing.  I finally let it sit for about 10 minutes and she fired right up.  I ride home and after that 5 minutes, the bike fired right up after shut it off in the garage.

 

Also, what type of voltage should I be getting when it cranks?

 

I am going to measure using the SAE 2-prong harness which is wired directly to the battery, while still on the bike.  

 

I have a new battery on order and should be here by Thursday.  Until then, I have to drive my square boxy car.  

 

Thanks!

Mine left me stranded after 2 1/2 years ( my bike is always on a tender when it's in my garage). I'm not impressed to say the least and the BMW warranty covers it for only 2 yrs.

On my previous 07 RT I had a generic battery that I paid $40 for in 2013 and was still good when I sold the bike in 2020...

 

[lkraus]

I think being always on a tender actually shortens battery life. At least, I see a lot of reports of batteries being maintained that way and then dying after only two or three years.  

 

Batteries seem to last longest with frequent use. If that's not an option, next best is to top off the charge every three-four weeks and then unplug the tender. I expect about eight years of battery life.

 

Our 2011 Camry has it's original battery, used daily. 

The Kubota is used for mowing about once a week, Apr-Oct. It gets occasional charges Nov to Mar, and clears snow 3-4 times.  Current battery is six years old, the previous one lasted nine years.

Our Sienna minivan only accumulates  about 4k per year, mostly short errands. It goes on the tender for a day if it sits unused for a few weeks. Last battery lasted eight years, this one is six.

The Odyssey in the RT will be ten in January.  After sitting a week it starts a little slow, but is back to normal after riding a few miles.  I've taken to storing the jump pack in the pannier.

[Hosstage]

I agree on removing the tender or charger to let everything "cool off" occasionally.

[longjohn]

2 hours ago, lkraus said:

 

Batteries seem to last longest with frequent use.

This. 

[wbw6cos]

The bike is ridden daily,  at minimum M - F.  Some discussion about this issue involved the length of those daily rides.  The commute is 16 minutes in the morning and about 20 minutes in the afternoon.   Max speed limit is 45 mph, but rest assured, I go above that.  Lots.  

 

I do keep the motor revs between 3 and 4,000 RPMs while on the commute. 

 

Wondering if the regular riding I described is long enough to keep the battery life up.  

 

Thank you for the posts.

 

 

[lkraus]

When I was still working, that was about the length and speeds of my commute, 7.6 miles, usually five to seven days a week. Took the car if it was raining in the morning, icy, or the roads were salty. Otherwise, I rode. I had no time for longer rides. Never connected a charger unless the bike was unused for at least a couple weeks.

[Skywagon]

This has been a battery year for me. My 2017 car driven 1000 miles a month average just got its 3rd battery. Never on a tender. I suspect the Texas heat is killer. The 2nd car driven 4000 miles a year battery died at 3 years. My bike batteries have been lasting 3 years. 
 

This weekend I changed 5 batteries in the boat. It has 2 starting 12v and 3-12v linked for 36v.   I replaced the staring batteries with regular AGM’s. For 36v, I had replaced with 36v Lithium and on board charger to the tune of $2800. It has a 11 year full replacement non pro-rated warranty. All the boat batteries were almost 4 years old

 

I dunno.. me thinks batteries are not very good these days. 

[Hosstage]

That's a whole 'nother discussion about battery quality. There is theory that recycled lead not as good as virgin lead used in batteries.

[Hive1969]

I have a 2019 R1250RT. Battery is 3 1/2 years old.

 

my bike is always on the tender when not in  use. My bike has not been started since Christmas.  I did not rotate throttle, just ignition on, give the bikes a few seconds to finish its self check.

 

Outside are temperature 10 degC.

Number of cranks to fire approx 2-3.

bike voltage after unplugging bike for 24 hrs=13.4 volts.

on cranking, the minimum voltage I measured was 9.65 volts.

running voltage 14.25 volts?

 

I will be keeping this battery for a while.

 

 

[Dave_in_TX]

My 2020 GS with 92k miles is on it's third battery. I replaced it last Saturday after it failed to crank the bike over on the first attempt at starting after a gas stop. Original battery lasted about as long as the Motobatt replacement. Now have a Duracell made by East Penn in it.

 

Although the first two batteries only lasted a little over a year each, l don't think battery life was that bad considering mileage.

[9Mary7]

Battery in my 2015 Suzuki....still original and on a tender when not being ridden.

2014 Ducati......replaced by original owner two years ago, on tender when not being ridden.

2018 Honda.....replaced by original owner last year prior to sale because he left it parked and unridden for 4 years; now on a tender when not being ridden.

My son's inherited 2005 R1200ST is on its second battery, original replaced in late 2013 just due to age, was still working fine...on a tender when not being ridden.

Second battery gettin the same love, we'll see how far it goes but will replace it before any trips due to age, local rides no worries.

Y'all can see the common theme here...

[TEWKS]

2014 RT, Original Battery. That will not spin the motor next time I hit the button because I bragged about it.   Same though, tender when not in use has extended the life of my batteries. 

[9Mary7]

1 hour ago, TEWKS said:

because I bragged about it

I'm prolly in deep guano then.......

On your other hand, 9 years is excellent!!!

 

[taylor1]

Just went out and cranked it. Like new.  R60/6  Odyssey  pc680. Has been installed since 05/2011. Never on a tender. I think I got a bang for my buck on this one

[MikeB60]

On 2/19/2023 at 10:42 AM, taylor1 said:

Just went out and cranked it. Like new.  R60/6  Odyssey  pc680. Has been installed since 05/2011. Never on a tender. I think I got a bang for my buck on this one

I just pulled a 8 year old PC680 from the K bike.  Still good but CCAs are down a little and didn't want to chance it with through the summer.  Threw it in a lawn tractor which won't leave me stranded on the road. Supposedly based on feedback on the K1600 site the new PC680s aren't as good, guess I'll find out as that's what I put in the K bike.  To bad they don't fit in the newer RTs.

[wbw6cos]

Updating my original post (thanks for reminding me Mike):  I ended up installing the Chrome Pro found on amazon.  It must have been an anomoly as it did not last very long.   Not sure why.   Within a month, that Chrome battery started showing symptoms of my original 3 year old battery.   I installed a battery jump port/ harness for my Noco booster, which ended up being used for the Chrome Pro.  I guess I did not let it sit on the Ctek 4.3 long enough before being put in service.  

 

I replaced the Chrome Pro with a Yuasa.  The Yuasa was shipped in dry.  Once I added the acid, I put it on the charger to get it ready for service.

 

So far, so good.

 

 

[Lowndes]

Anyone ever do the Odyssey recommended "Battery Reconditioning Charge Procedure"??  It seems to work.

 

https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Anyone ever do the Odyssey recommended "Battery Reconditioning Charge Procedure"??  It seems to work.

 

https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf

Morning  Lowndes

 

Yes, I have done a number of Odyssey Reconditioning's, some work OK & others gain very little.  It depends on "what" reduced the battery's storage capacity. If I see a gain in the first reconditioning pass then typically I run a second pass. But It takes a PROPER charger with enough amp output at ENOUGH voltage at the correct timing in the charging process to properly recondition. 

 

It won't work if the wrong charger is used, or if the battery is incorrectly depleted to the proper start-of- reconditioning voltage.

 

A number of riders buy that Odyssey for their BMW based on reading about it on-line, then they put it in an older motorcycle that doesn't quite have a high enough charging voltage to fully top it off, or to keep it topped off, so the battery sulfates. Or they use an older battery-charger or battery-minder that is not rated at a high enough amps or high enough voltage so again the battery sulfates (typically these can be reconditioned if not allowed to stay sulfated for too long) 

 

Reconditioning won't restore a failed or extremely sulfated Odyssey battery but can help on newer Odyssey batteries that were incorrectly charged over a period of time, or over trickle charged at too low of a voltage, or continually charged with a charger that doesn't meet the battery's charging volt/amp profile. 

 

The Odyssey is a good battery with typically a very long life span but it can be killed fairly easily if the incorrect charger is used for long periods of storage, or incorrect charger is used every night.  

 

 

 

 

[wbw6cos]

The process is too involved for me to perform this procedure.  I think I will just buy a new battery and go riding instead.   

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, wbw6cos said:

The process is too involved for me to perform this procedure.  I think I will just buy a new battery and go riding instead.   

Morning William

 

 

Actually it isn't as involved as it seems from reading the procedure, the big thing is in using the correct (approved) battery charger. If you don't have a correct battery charger then no use in even trying. 

 

I use the same double H-7 bulb set-up for pull down so I can usually tell (pretty close anyhow) when the battery is getting near the correct pull-down voltage by the glow of the H-7 bulbs. Once it is getting close I put my voltmeter of the circuit to get it down to the correct final voltage. 

[Lowndes]

Odyssey Approved 12v Battery Chargers list:

 

https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-approved-12V-chargers.pdf

 

It looks like it would be simple to make a "Reconditioner" with high and low voltage switches, a correct battery charger, and an old incandescent headlight bulb for William (and me!!)

 

 

[dirtrider]

7 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

Odyssey Approved 12v Battery Chargers list:

 

https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-approved-12V-chargers.pdf

 

It looks like it would be simple to make a "Reconditioner" with high and low voltage switches, a correct battery charger, and an old incandescent headlight bulb for William (and me!!)

 

 

Morning  Lowndes

 

You really don't need voltage switches, once the headlight bulb(s) go from bright to medium dim just monitor the circuit voltage as it goes pretty darn quick from starting to dim/ to proper voltage.  You sort of want to monitor it anyhow as it runs down as you don't want it to sit depleted for very long as that can ruin (or at least take life out of) a good battery. 

[wbw6cos]

I may give it a ty some day, but not on an Odyssey battery.  All I have is the BMW original and that Chrome Pro.  We will see.  Thanks for the input.

[dirtrider]

13 minutes ago, wbw6cos said:

I may give it a ty some day, but not on an Odyssey battery.  All I have is the BMW original and that Chrome Pro.  We will see.  Thanks for the input.

Morning  Lowndes

 

I don't know anything about the Chrome Pro (you probably need to contact them about any type of process) but using the Odyssey procedure will probably kill (or at least possibly hurt) the OEM BMW battery.  

[Lowndes]

39 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning  Lowndes

 

You really don't need voltage switches, once the headlight bulb(s) go from bright to medium dim just monitor the circuit voltage as it goes pretty darn quick from starting to dim/ to proper voltage.  You sort of want to monitor it anyhow as it runs down as you don't want it to sit depleted for very long as that can ruin (or at least take life out of) a good battery. 

 

Dirtrider,

 

I've done it several times with this procedure but my problem is that I get to doing something else, cutting the grass, cleaning gutters, whatever, and before I know it, it's below the 10v, plus it's about as much fun as watching grass grow.  I'd like to be able to plug it in, flip a switch, and come back tomorrow.

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

 

Dirtrider,

 

I've done it several times with this procedure but my problem is that I get to doing something else, cutting the grass, cleaning gutters, whatever, and before I know it, it's below the 10v, plus it's about as much fun as watching grass grow.  I'd like to be able to plug it in, flip a switch, and come back tomorrow.

Morning  Lowndes

 

You really don't want to let it sit that long in a depleted state. 

 

If you are mowing the grass just do it outside where you can see the lights every so many lawn mowing passes, or run a long extension cord out of the garage with the lights hooked to the end of the cord.

 

I typically do the recondition in my shop while I'm working out there as the lights are then in plain sight. 

 

.