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I learned something today


Red

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To set the stage, my keyless fob started malfunctioning this spring (May).  Went to the local store and got a pack of two replacements.  Installed one and kept the other.  While the bike operated fine, I always had to hit the arrow button so that the bike ignition sequence would come up.  I thought, OK I'll just have that fixed at my next service.  It was a PITA all summer but no problems.

I always try to run down my fuel tank as near empty as I dare in the fall, then add premium no corn gas and a wee bit of stabilizer.  Today I was down to 3 fuel bars and the dash warning symbol and a do not find key symbol came on.  Had time to contemplate my course of action and decided I'll just fuel while running.  Then over the winter I'd get a battery from my dealer and hope it was better than radio shack.

Pulled up to the pump and talked the attendant into letting me fuel while running.  Put the bike in neutral.  Made darn sure I kept my foot off the side stand.   Dismounted.  Put the bike on the center stand and prepared to fuel.  NOT happening.  Don't know if it was because the fob was malfunctioning or BMW has a safety thing going on, but I could not open the fuel cap while the engine was running.  I apologized to the attendant for wasting their time and drove home.  Put the second of two batteries in the fob.  Bike fired up and I completed my end of season fueling.

I'm not liking this feature one damn bit.  What if I was a couple hundred miles from home, at night, in the rain, low on fuel, no dealer within 400 miles, and I can't get the stinking fuel cap open?  This sucks boys and girls.

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I always keep a spare Duracell batt on my bike with me and change my fob battery every Spring. I also have a hidden plastic key on the bike at all times too. Other than that I don't know what else you could do except for carry the tools necessary to take the fuel cap apart. 

Having said that I have never had the problem you describe 

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On my '19 RT, the fuel cap will NOT open with the ignition on, whether the engine is running or not.   When I fuel, I sometimes stop the motor with the kill switch and forget to turn off the ignition as I am listening to some music.  

 

Can you place the plastic key in place to see if the gas cap will release?

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My 2018 gas will only unlock for a minute or so after I turn bike off, makes sense to me it's an automatic feature otherwise they would have added a feature in the menu using the wonder wheel to lock or unlock, being old and forgetful I prefer it automatic.

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I’m really not sure why motorcycle gas caps need to be locked in the first place. It’s not like someone is going to steal 3 gallons or put something in the tank. I would like to have them like my car. There is a small door to open without a key, but no gas cap. Having it tied to a key fob is just asking for trouble 

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22 minutes ago, Skywagon said:

I’m really not sure why motorcycle gas caps need to be locked in the first place. It’s not like someone is going to steal 3 gallons or put something in the tank. I would like to have them like my car. There is a small door to open without a key, but no gas cap. Having it tied to a key fob is just asking for trouble 

 

I'd just like to have the 2019 converted back to a standard key:dontknow:

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2 hours ago, Skywagon said:

There is a small door to ope, but no gas cap. 

Morning David

 

There is a small door to open, but no gas cap.-- That is something I have no use for and in fact it causes me issues. 

 

I live off of a long dirt road that can get pretty dusty at times, that dust & dirt finds it's way into the compartment behind the closed gas door & ends up in the inlet to the gasoline filler neck just above the outer sealing flap.    If I don't go in there & manually clear/clean that area then inserting the pump filler nozzle pushes some of that dust & dirt into the filler neck then down into the gas tank with in-flow of gasoline.  (convenient for some & a pain for others)

 

I now slip a rubber cap over the filler tube end to keep the dirt from accumulating in that area.  

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I think your key fob will still work with a dead battery.  It becomes a passive key like the plastic spare.  You would have to position it between the seats to get it to work.  I haven't tried this myself.

 

But yeah, I would like to be able to open the gas cap...at least with the motor off and ignition still on.

 

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On a recent trip, my gas cap central locking feature failed.  I could move the lever, but it would not unlatch.  So, I used a T-25 bit to remove the two screws at the front of the gas cap retaining ring, and opened the fuel tank that way.  When fueling was complete, I spun the screws back finger tight, and put the T-25 bit in my jacket pocket.  Kind of a pain during a week-long trip, but very easy.

 

When I got home, I ordered a replacement locking gas cap assembly.  There are two part numbers, and one is a lot cheaper.  Of course, I ordered the cheap one, which turns out to be the wrong one for central locking. :4607:
 

But I discovered that I could remove the lock crossbar and the spring loaded pin from my existing gas cap assembly, and voila, I have a perfectly functioning non-locking gas cap.  Highly recommended.

 

And if someone needs a brand new key-locking gas cap for a wethead, send me a PM.  All you need is to swap your key cylinder.

 

cap

866A33EA-88BB-4172-A4FA-EBC5F9BB9951.jpeg

2C3FD869-5E2B-41E5-A25C-DAD01412267A.jpeg

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If a plastic emergency key came with the bike, I've lost it.  If my Nissan auto key fob goes teats up, it will start if you place the fob next to the start button.  I dunno if the Nissan locking gas fill cover will operate?  Might be worth a call to my Nissan dealer. 

The original BMW battery lasted 3.5 years.  Maybe the solution is to replace the battery every two years.  Although I think I've read elsewhere on this site that aftermarket batteries often are past their prime or simply a POS from the get go.  Probably what happened to me.  Out of the package in May and dead by September.  Next spring I'm going to break down and go to my dealer, get a new batt from them for the fob and one extra to carry all the thyme as Reg26 suggests.  This ASSUMES the batteries at my dealer are better/fresher than at my local hardware store.  :5146:

  BMW had their head up their back side when they designed this feature.  :mad:

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I got the key fob switcheroo process down pretty well now.  I need a battery that hasn't been sitting on the shelf for 5 years.  I'm hoping BMW shop is better than local radio shack.

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Just buy a duracel battery from a local busy store or I buy mine off amazon. Never had a problem and they have a date right on the package. Good luck!

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On 10/31/2022 at 6:05 PM, Cap said:

On a recent trip, my gas cap central locking feature failed.  I could move the lever, but it would not unlatch.  So, I used a T-25 bit to remove the two screws at the front of the gas cap retaining ring, and opened the fuel tank that way.  When fueling was complete, I spun the screws back finger tight, and put the T-25 bit in my jacket pocket.  Kind of a pain during a week-long trip, but very easy.

 

When I got home, I ordered a replacement locking gas cap assembly.  There are two part numbers, and one is a lot cheaper.  Of course, I ordered the cheap one, which turns out to be the wrong one for central locking. :4607:
 

But I discovered that I could remove the lock crossbar and the spring loaded pin from my existing gas cap assembly, and voila, I have a perfectly functioning non-locking gas cap.  Highly recommended.

 

And if someone needs a brand new key-locking gas cap for a wethead, send me a PM.  All you need is to swap your key cylinder.

 

cap

866A33EA-88BB-4172-A4FA-EBC5F9BB9951.jpeg

2C3FD869-5E2B-41E5-A25C-DAD01412267A.jpeg

 

 

Soooooo, you just take out those bits and pieces and the cap still latches down but just doesn't lock?

 

If so, I'ma do this hack.

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4 hours ago, Rougarou said:

, you just take out those bits and pieces and the cap still latches down but just doesn't lock?


yes, and the only trick is that you need to push the large part out the back of the assembly.  If you look at the gas cap assembly, you will see there is a wire going to it to provide power for the locking device.  That wire goes through a small plate that is attached to the gas cap assembly with some spring clips.  I found that I could gently pry off the plate and pull it back along the wire, exposing the back of the locking mechanism.   Then, using a 3/16” punch, I could drive the lock bar out the back of the assembly. After that, the plate clips back onto the assembly and seals it.  And then, the small pin and spring just lift out.  Be very careful not to drop the spring and pin into the gas tank.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.de110a30764cfbaee16669a3928b53f0.jpeg

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