Tps and throttle sync pt2

[revbumps]

Yip my buddy and I done the sync(stop to 240 not 280 as stated)

Thanks to Jim moore and the dirtrider for the input.

Here we go, we are working on the one cable set up(r1100rs pre 96)

Seems quite smooth but slightly hesitant from the off.

I wonder if no free play on the second adjuster as it crosses the bike

Would change anything for the better.

My previous rs had the bowden set up so its kinda new to us.

Once again any advice would be appreciated  thanks. James

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, revbumps said:

Yip my buddy and I done the sync(stop to 240 not 280 as stated)

Thanks to Jim moore and the dirtrider for the input.

Here we go, we are working on the one cable set up(r1100rs pre 96)

Seems quite smooth but slightly hesitant from the off.

I wonder if no free play on the second adjuster as it crosses the bike

Would change anything for the better.

My previous rs had the bowden set up so its kinda new to us.

Once again any advice would be appreciated  thanks. James

Afternoon revbumps

 

On a hot engine you don't want any slack in the crossover cable as that slack causes a R/H side delay on the just-off-idle throttle-up.

 

Think of that crossover cable as solid rod in the pull direction, if the L/H side moves 1° you want the R/H side to also move 1°.  If the L/H side moves 1° before the R/H side starts moving then that slack is causing the R/H side to be delayed or lag when the  throttle is opened.

 

Or put another way, with a hot engine & NO choke used for engine starting you need both side throttle arms to lift off their base idle screws at the exact time. (this is more important than base idle balance)

 

There is a fair amount of compromise on the single cable system so pick your important areas then make your compromise in the non-important areas. One place to give up exactness is at curb idle as you don't ride the bike with the throttle arms on the base idle screws. So within reason don't worry about the hot engine base idle balance.

 

Also, hot engine can effect crossover cable length so do your balance on a hot engine if possible.

 

One very BIG problem on the single cable systems is using the choke (fast idle lever)  to start the engine before doing the balance. Using the choke pulls the main cable & crossover cable in the wrong direction on the L/H throttle body cam so if there is a little (or a lot)  slop in the cable barrels then that allows the L/H side to be out of sync with the R/H side once the twist grip is used again. 

 

If you do use the choke, or the choke was used, then use the twist grip almost full travel a few times before doing the balance as that moves the L/H side cable & crossover cable back to proper position on the L/H side throttle cam. 

 

Added: After you get your balance as best possible & IF you still have that just off-idle flat spot then you might try removing your CCP (in the fuse box) as that will richen the idle & just above idle fueling a noticeable amount. (assuming you have  USA motorcycle). If you have a European  or UK version with no CCP but have an idle trim pot (idle control valve) then you can adjust that to richen the idle & just above idle fueling.