Tips for clutch change on R1100s

[Tim Stammers]

Moderator: I’ve written this post in an attempt to pay forward all the great help I’ve had from this and other forums. I'm hoping you'll OK it.

 

This post is not a procedure for changing the R1100s clutch. It is a handful of things I learnt when I recently did the job my 2001 R1100s.  I didn’t see any of these points mentioned on the web when I spent several hours Googling the topic before I started the job.  I would have  liked to have known them.  I hope they help somebody else.  I’ve also listed some links I found useful for  the overall procedure.

 

 Assessing spline wear without taking off the gearbox is misleading, IMHO.  Here's the method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDjEvDgZlWU&ab_channel=DmitrySlootskin.

It needs much more feel than I have. Doing it three times I convinced myself there was ~6mm play at the clutch plate outer edge (a lot.) After I took the gearbox off the bike, I put the gearbox on the bench and put the same clutch plate back on the splines. There was actually only ~1mm play. 

 

Dried  out or migrated grease. The splines on my R1100s (28,000 miles) were worn only about 5% but there was so little grease on them  that in a camera flash pic, they looked  bright orange rusty. I presume this  lack of grease was already causing a rapid increase in the spline wear-rate. About fifteen years ago I found the same lack of grease on the clutch splines of a 1980s airhead that had only 17,000 miles on it. That bike was about twenty-five years old, and had completely stripped the splines, leaving me stranded by the roadside. Grease drying out with age on both bikes?

 

You don’t have to remove the rear exhaust cans. You only need to remove the cat/collector box, which is fairly easy. Putting it back on is also pretty easy. But take more care than I did. I caught the 02 sensor on the back  of the  gear box/sump while putting the box back on, which damaged the  sensor and resulted in weird running -  see posting on this forum: https://www.bmwsporttouring.com/topic/104487-r1100s-starts-fine-but-soon-after-runs-awfully/

 

Beware seized nut on exhaust cans. The cat box up-pipe connects to the exhaust cans under the seat via an axial strap, as well as a regular circumferential clamp. One end of the axial strap is attached to the pipe from the cans by a stud welded to that pipe. This is easy to see when you look up from underneath. When I tried to remove the nut on that stud, I inadvertently wrung off the stud at its base, because the nut was seized.  Welding on a new stud would have meant removing the cans from the bike, and they had already refused to budge. So I re-assembled without the stud, leaving the strap attached only at one end. So far so good – no apparent exhaust leaks. But I don’t know if I’m heading for other problems and I wish I’d heated and soaked that nut before trying to take it off.

 

If you need to remove the Motronic cable, it's easy once  you know how:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8WvXXjdCXQ&t=377s&ab_channel=YegerEli.

 

When you remove or move the rear subframe, watch exactly where the shims came from. I didn’t and when it came to reassembly I had to spend time working out where they belonged. I religiously followed the tightening procedure in BMW repair manual for the subframe bolts and shimming, because apparently if you don’t, you risk the subframe cracking in service.

 

Links that I found useful:

 

Paralever Removal and Replacement, Chris Harris: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI"w.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI. (In case you want to try it that way)

 

Clutch Slave Cylinder, and access to clutch with entire gearbox, drive shaft and rear wheel removed as one assy, Chris Harris: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PdVvxMwz_A 

 

Dana in Philadelphia’s thread complete teardown and rebuild thread:  https://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/953597-2000-r1100s-driveline-issue-11.html

 

Getting the box off with rear as huge assembly, and comments on condition of clutch pack:  http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/199637-dr-splinelube-how-i-stopped-worrying-learn-love-bike.html

 

RBMann’s tail-up gearbox removal and photos of clutch pack:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/401556-clutch-replaced.html

 

That's  it. Best of luck!

 

 

 

[Lowndes]

Very good writeup and reference links!!

 

I would add that you should drill a weep hole in the clutch slave cyl housing while you have it apart. 

 

And replace the slave cyl with a new one.

 

That is unless you prefer to do this same process again at some point in the future, usually at the worst possible time for you. 

 

The throwout bearing is in the piston of the slave cyl and that tiny bearing turns with EVERY revolution of the crankshaft, in/out of gear, clutch in or out.  It does have more load on it with the clutch lever pulled.  That tiny bearing WILL fail at some point, when it does, it spins the slave cyl piston which fails shortly thereafter releasing the hydraulic fluid (DOT4 usually).  That fluid has no place to go except down the clutch rod hole (thru the trans input shaft) directly to the clutch which immediately starts slipping badly requiring replacement. 

 

  

 

Drill a tiny (1/16" to 1/8" dia) hole near the front of that housing that enters the inside of the slave cyl hole at the very bottom and as forward as possible.  This will provide an outlet for any leaking hydraulic fluid, AND a leaking rear input shaft seal  The hole will act the same way as the weep hole on your car's water pump.  It will also save your clutch (and your time replacing it).  Maybe it's just me, but I'd rather replace just a slave cyl than a clutch AND a slave cyl.  But, it's your bike, you choose.

 

Inside view:

 

 

Outside view:

 

 

More pics here:  https://goo.gl/photos/QEN3xyQVWXW1jraT6

 

FWIW, I saved about $150 USD by using a Siebenrock standard clutch (NOT the oil proof version) over a Bosch unit.  Six years now, still going strong.

[Bill Cats]

On 9/28/2022 at 6:59 AM, Lowndes said:

Very good writeup and reference links!!

 

I would add that you should drill a weep hole in the clutch slave cyl housing while you have it apart. 

 

And replace the slave cyl with a new one.

 

That is unless you prefer to do this same process again at some point in the future, usually at the worst possible time for you. 

 

The throwout bearing is in the piston of the slave cyl and that tiny bearing turns with EVERY revolution of the crankshaft, in/out of gear, clutch in or out.  It does have more load on it with the clutch lever pulled.  That tiny bearing WILL fail at some point, when it does, it spins the slave cyl piston which fails shortly thereafter releasing the hydraulic fluid (DOT4 usually).  That fluid has no place to go except down the clutch rod hole (thru the trans input shaft) directly to the clutch which immediately starts slipping badly requiring replacement. 

 

  

 

Drill a tiny (1/16" to 1/8" dia) hole near the front of that housing that enters the inside of the slave cyl hole at the very bottom and as forward as possible.  This will provide an outlet for any leaking hydraulic fluid, AND a leaking rear input shaft seal  The hole will act the same way as the weep hole on your car's water pump.  It will also save your clutch (and your time replacing it).  Maybe it's just me, but I'd rather replace just a slave cyl than a clutch AND a slave cyl.  But, it's your bike, you choose.

 

Inside view:

 

 

Outside view:

 

 

More pics here:  https://goo.gl/photos/QEN3xyQVWXW1jraT6

 

FWIW, I saved about $150 USD by using a Siebenrock standard clutch (NOT the oil proof version) over a Bosch unit.  Six years now, still going strong.

im getting ready to do a clutch job on my R1100RSL, do u have a link / source for the parts, all , including the slave cylinder ,,, everything ill need :)

Thanks ,,, 

[dirtrider]

22 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

im getting ready to do a clutch job on my R1100RSL, do u have a link / source for the parts, all , including the slave cylinder ,,, everything ill need :)

Thanks ,,, 

Afternoon Bill 

 

Your 1100RS shouldn't have a slave cylinder as the clutch is cable operated.

 

What year are you working on as the early 1100RS bikes are difficult to figure when it comes to clutch parts. 

[Jim Moore]

Here's a step-by-step on the transmission Removal and replacement. I never remember exactly why I do it in this order, but every time I try to do it in a different order I end up having to go back and do things twice.

 

Oilhead R1100RS Transmission Removal

1.     Strap Front Wheel

2.     Loosen intake tubes and slide into airbox (Done at this time to make it easier to pull fuel lines out)

3.     Remove tank

a.     Disconnect fuel lines

b.     Disconnect vent lines

c.      Unbolt front of tank

d.     Disconnect fuel electronic connector

4.     Remove rear side fairings

5.     Remove battery

6.     Remove battery box bolts

7.     Remove starter.

8.     Disconnect electronics (neutral and gear indicator switches on left, ABS and rear brake light switches on right)

9.     Loosen

a.     Pins (both sides)

b.     Subframe Bolts (8)

c.      Exhaust bolts

d.     Shock bolts

e.     Torque arm bolts

10.Remove rear caliper

11. Remove rear wheel

12. Remove left footrest

13. Remove right footrest (leave it hanging by caliper and ABS assembly)

14.Remove exhaust

15. Remove final drive (Unbolt pins and front of torque arm)

16.Remove swingarm

17. Reinstall right footrest (one bolt)

18. Drain transmission oil

19. Remove right-front seat post

20. Remove rear shock

21. Remove airbox bolts (two in front, one in air filter housing)

22. Strap rear subframe

23. Remove subframe bolts (4)

24. Loosen subframe through-bolt

25. Ensure ABS lines are disconnected from rear subframe

26. Lift subframe

27. Unbolt injectors at throttle bodies

28.Remove airbox

29. Remove right footrest and leave it hanging

30. Unbolt bottom-right and top-left transmission bolts.

31. Install pins

32. Unbolt other transmission bolts

33. Slide transmission back. Use crowbar to hold battery box up so posts clear.

34. Locate clutch pushrod

Installation

35. Insert pushrod

36. Install transmission (22 nm)

37. Reattach ABS lines to transmission

38. Adjust clutch if necessary

39. Install battery box nuts

40. Seat airbox

41. Attach engine breather. It goes BELOW the throttle cable.

42.Install driveshaft.

43.  Lower subframe (watch electrical connectors) and install bolts (47 nm: Right-rear, right-front, left-front, left-rear)

44. Tighten through-bolt. 47 nm.

45. Install airbox bolts

46.Attach injectors

47.Install air filter and airbox lid.

48.Install shock (43 nm top and bottom) Do not tighten.

49. Install swingarm. (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

50. Tighten shock (43 nm)

51. Install final drive (Pins are 100 ft-lb) on right side, 12 nm on left side, lock nut is damn tight)

52. Install torque arm (43 nm)

53.Install Starter

54. Install foot rests (22 nm)

55. Install Exhaust (20 ft-lb in back. 50 nm at the joint)

56. Reconnect electronics

57.Install rear wheel (77 ft-lb)

58. Install rear caliper (40 nm)

59.  Install battery

60. Install fuel tank

61. Install panels

[Lowndes]

Bill Cats,

 

All I needed in the clutch area was a friction disc.  Be glad you don't have the hydraulic system.  I shopped for a friction disc and found several options, from DIY pad replacement to OEM and Seibenrock "oil-proof" discs.  Didn't want to do the DIY route but discovered that Seibenrock also has a non oil-proof disc that was literally half the price of everything else on the market.  It's been 5 years or so and it has suffered my abuse and is still going strong.  

 

While the bike was down I did the hoses and filter inside the tank, a couple of the outside accessable seals on the trans shafts, an upgraded voltage regulator for an AGM battery, and quick disconnects on the fuel lines.  You will find things along the way you want to upgrade or replace "while you're there" so unless you're in Sacremento or Key West, just relax and don't try to do it in one day or one weekend.  Also, take plenty of pics, you'll be glad you did.

[Bill Cats]

On 1/2/2023 at 11:40 AM, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Bill 

 

Your 1100RS shouldn't have a slave cylinder as the clutch is cable operated.

 

What year are you working on as the early 1100RS bikes are difficult to figure when it comes to clutch parts. 

aaahhh ur right ,,, its a 94 :)

Thanks yet again !!!

[dirtrider]

30 minutes ago, Bill Cats said:

aaahhh ur right ,,, its a 94 :)

Thanks yet again !!!

Morning Bill 

 

Any idea on when it was made in the 1994 build year (like a build date)? Or just put the last 7 digits of your VIN into the little search box at this web site & it should give you the appx build date  https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx

 

If you have an early 1994 1100RS then you have more to deal with as the early 94 RS bike has that large funnel shaped crankcase ventilation oil separator device with those darn extra hoses to deal with hanging on the rear of the engine. 

 

Or just see if your bike has that large vent oil separator hanging behind the engine.  It will look like this__

 

[Bill Cats]

On 1/5/2023 at 11:21 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning Bill 

 

Any idea on when it was made in the 1994 build year (like a build date)? Or just put the last 7 digits of your VIN into the little search box at this web site & it should give you the appx build date  https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx

 

If you have an early 1994 1100RS then you have more to deal with as the early 94 RS bike has that large funnel shaped crankcase ventilation oil separator device with those darn extra hoses to deal with hanging on the rear of the engine. 

 

Or just see if your bike has that large vent oil separator hanging behind the engine.  It will look like this__

hey,,, sorry was off the mechanics stuff for a while,,, 

the attached picture wont open  :(     ill try to use that nifty web page on that link you sent !

 

[Bill Cats]

WB1041603R0311109 is my VIN.

 

1994 BMW R1100RS/L 

My info on my bike :)