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$965 for 12K Maintenance is Not Acceptable


MichiganBob

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Good Afternoon.

 

My dealer wants $965 out the door for the 12K maintenance on my 2018 1200RT. Can I pay this much? Fortunately I can. But I mulled it over on a long ride this weekend, and although I am less interested in doing my own work on this bike these days, I'm going to do some of it. I'll change the oil, filter, spark plugs, final drive lube, air cleaner element and bleed front and rear brakes. I've done these things for more than 50 years so it's no big deal. I have a $100 off coupon from BMW for service over $250 so I'll let the dealer check and adjust valves and reset service light. I'm reviewing the many threads and thinking of Liquid Moly for oil, and order BMW oil filter, plugs, air filter and crush washers for oil and rear end from Max who ships for free. Wondering if I really need a filter wrench or can I just hand tighten the filter? Also, do I need a spark plug coil remover or can I do it with a screwdriver. Can you think of anything else I would need re: parts or tools for the procedures above? As always, thanks for your guidance.

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I've always done all my own service.  You will need a filter wrench to get the old filter off.  Doesn't have to be the cap type the pliers type will work, hand tight will work for installation.  You should use the right coil removal tool, they are too easy to damage.  The air filter service takes time but is pretty straight forward. The last two I have removed at 12,000 miles look really good, I may go 24,000 on the next one.

 

I usually order my supplies from Beemerboneyard.com.  Fast service and good prices.

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My dealer charged right around $500 for the 12k maintenance on my 2015.

 

Going forward, I'm extending the valve check, spark plugs, and air filter to 18k, and still have the dealer do it.

I'll do my own oil @ 6k and final drive @ 12k as specified.

 

 

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The other reason for me to do some of the maintenance is that it gets me a little familiar with this bike. I've always thought it was a good idea to at least get a cursory tour of its innards and what makes it tick.

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You should subscribe to Boxflyer's videos on YouTube for RT maintenance.  He covers tools, torque values, lubricants and procedures for the regular service intervals plus some services that aren't even on the service schedule at all - like final drive spline lubing, tires, wheels, etc.  All free.

 

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With those costs actually going up, it doesn't many DYI's to pay for a GS911 and a few tools. I don't understand why more of the local BMW clubs don't put together the basics for their members to use. Some of the meetings should become Tech Days :18:

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I have one other tip, or at least an expectation you may find out.  If you do some or all of the fluid changes yourself and then take your bike into a dealer to have the remainder of the interval services done on the assumption to "protect your warranty", my experience has been that the price of the service doesn't change much, once you make sure to include the prices you paid for the oil, grease, brake fluid, etc. at a local auto shop or mail-order outfit.  Why is that?  I used a very good and respected dealer for years on 3 BMWs I've owned and I've saved thousands of dollars picking up ALL the regular servicing myself because shops charge their independently established hourly shop labor rates (triple digit $$$) against a standardized time expected to perform a service.  So if you take your bike in to have say a 12K service done, they already have a labor price for that, and may just note "customer states he changed oil" on the itemized invoice and receipt, and only reduce the total charges by their price for fluids and perhaps whatever the shop rags and other "disposal fees" would have been for those.

As Randy has said above, invest in a GS-911 or Motoscan (sp?) diagnostic tool to reset service intervals, see if your bike is operating well or needs servicing, and reset fault codes can save a lot on trips to a dealer to learn the same thing.  Invest in some tools to change spark plugs or even do your own valve checks and adjustments on a boxer and you're way ahead.  I see my dealer for recall, warranty and extended warranty issues where BMW or the insurance policy will pay them, and every 2 or 3 years I may take one of the bikes in for a electronic "update" from the motherland and pay for that service if I hear there are worthwhile improvements or fixes. 

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The maintenance is pretty easy.  One thing I strongly encourage you to do is to make a cardboard or other similar material drawing of the Tupperware.  Poke holes in it where the screws are.  Put the screws in those holes as your remove them.  There are several different types of screws, and they get easily mixed up.  

 

What Rainman says about fee reduction when you've done part of the work is very true...very little discount.  I did that once and the bill was so close to full service, I asked them to price some of the items separately.  They were way more separately than the fee reduction.  I don't remember exactly but my fading memory says they charge $135 for an oil change and my fee reduction was $50.  We fought for a while before I paid the bill.  Finally the service manager agreed to take off a few more dollars, but not close to standard fees.

 

P.S.  If I remember correctly the manual says oil filter tighten to 7NM....so calibrate your hand accordingly.  

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Thanks Skywagon. I have used different systems for tupperware screws like a 24 sectioned plastic box but I love the cardboard approach. The 965 is high but worse than that is that I'm not sure behind closed doors that they will do the different procedures as well as I will, especially the brake bleed and the protection of surfaces from brake fluid. They has a 12k maintenance kit from Beemer Boneyard which I purchased, I might spring for the GS-911 or Motorscan. Is one preferred over the other? 

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Here's a link to the Boxflyer Boards for keeping your panel screws organized

Link to RH Boxflyer Board

Link to LH Boxflyer Board

 

Torque for the oil filter is 11Nm...or more easy to mark the edge of the end of the filter and continue tightening 3/4 of a turn after first contacting the gasket.

Quick Reference Torque Sheet for R1200 WetHead

Torque Sheet for R1200 WetHead

 

Quick Reference Torque Sheet for R1250 ShiftHead

Torque Sheet for R1250 ShiftHead

 

 

Boxflyer%20Board%20with%20InLbs%20RH-M.j.    Boxflyer%20Board%20with%20InLbs%20LH-M.j

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Motoscan is cheaper. I think it only works with one of the phone OS’s. My understanding is it doesn’t read as many codes either but I’ve never used one. The GS 911 I prefer but is a lot more expensive. If you have BMW club in you city or near you, they may have one you can borrow. The Houston club does and I’ve used it for free to reset service intervals and check error codes. 

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$965 is a lot for a service, sounds like you got the gold toilet tap service. 
The beauty with the boxer cylinder heads sticking out the sides, makes access easier. 
The valve clearance checks will take about 30 mins per side ( $ $150 per hour ) plus special tools approx $500. So if you are not into servicing or are not confident about pulling cams off, then valve clearance checks are expensive to do plus it will take longer if you are changing shims (micrometer and feeler gauges required) So this part of the servicing is ok to leave to a dealer you like, but the rest of the service is fair game and can easily justify shiny additions to your tool collection.

For most of the other servicing you will require a torque wrench 0 to 60 Nm ($100) . I personally do not cheap out on such tools and as a general rule have my torque wrench checked every couple of years.

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The fact is that almost none of the WetHead or ShiftCam motors require actual Valve Adjustments during the first couple of 12K mile services. A valve clearance check is easy and very simple and it should be done.

I suggest you check the valve clearances, change your spark plugs and oil & oil filter. A brake flush is very important and may very well improve the brake system.

Install a new air filter and drop your rear drive and lube your rear drive shaft spline and change the rear drive oil.

If your valve clearances exceed the limits in either direction, than you can always button it up and take it to your dealer.

The chances are that they will not even bother with the cam timing checks or re-shiming the valves.

 

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I just paid $677 for 12k service to my '21 RT which included a software re-flash. I will typically have shop performed services until my warranty is up, I will then do them all myself. I'm hoping by the time I'm ready to do my own service that BMW service data will be accessible on line for a reasonable fee.

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+1 on the Boxflyer videos. I was getting my 2017 serviced in suburban Chicago, but it was rather spendy (which I understand; they need to keep the lights on). Also, my nearest dealers were over 100 miles away. So, I watched the videos, got the tools needed, and did most of a 12K service over the winter. I say "most" because I didn't need to set valve clearances as they were fine. Payback on the required tools will be quick, and I get the satisfaction of being able to take the time needed to get the job done perfectly.

 

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Okeydokey. Supplies are just about acquired. Reviewed Youtube's including Boxflyer's excellent 6 part series. Ready to change oil, air filter, check coolant, new rear drive oil, clean and lube splines, and check and bleed front and rear brakes. Not yet sure I want to spring for a GS911. Wondering what the dealer will charge for resetting service intervals, running a scan, and checking the valves. I'll ask while sitting down. 

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Did some research and the MotorScan will meet my needs which are pretty basic. Plus I'll let others in the area know I have it if they want to borrow it. License is about $50, ELM 327 Wifi Interface $14 on Amazon and Cable $16 on Amazon. Compared to service costs and inconvenience, this is a good deal. Not seeing any downside. 

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One of the notable differences between my 2018 and my former 02 and 12 is the paralever fastener. The 2018 uses a bolt that you Loctite. The 02 and 12 uses a nut that BMW recommends you replace after each use. I know that there are those who have disregarded this recommendation and "live free or die" but it seems to me to be cheap insurance. Some nuts can change shape and lose their effectiveness. I learned this the hard way on my R75 when I did not change the driveshaft bolts which was a BMW recommendation and they came off while I was on the road. Just saying.

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