SWB Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 I'm putting together my parts list for a clutch job on my 2001 R1100RT(P). The microfiche (A&S BMW version) lists five different clutch friction plates. Does anyone know what the difference is between them? I checked the four part numbers listed, and it appears that only p/n 21 21 7 670 453 and p/n 21 21 7 670 452 are now valid, and there's about a buck's difference in cost between them. I've heard that RT(P)'s (like my own) have a different, more durable clutch plate, but there's nothing to indicate a difference between the part numbers listed. Also, does anyone happen to have a BMW P/N for a complete clutch kit? Thanks. (Note: Credit to Shaman97 for the image, a shameless rip-off, since it was already available from another thread.) Link to comment
bmweerman Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 When I did this same job I called Bobs BMW and just asked em. They steered me in the right direction. They will, of course try to sell you the outer plates as well but they are usually not needed. Cameron Link to comment
bmwmick Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Scott, There was a change to the friction discs and the one marked KD-SCHEIBE had a tighter clearance on the input shaft splines. The 453 is the tighter one. http://tinyurl.com/m826g Mick Link to comment
Mulepick Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 When in doubt, I go to: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ Their fiche is fine tuned to month/year of production and often removes the spurious options. Bob Link to comment
SWB Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 When in doubt, I go to: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ Their fiche is fine tuned to month/year of production and often removes the spurious options. Bob Very, very good. Actually, a TERRIFIC resource! It should be "stickied" to the top of the oilhead thread. Thx. Link to comment
SWB Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 Also, does anyone happen to have a BMW P/N for a complete clutch kit? I got the P/N from Chicago BMW today: P/N 21 21 2 325 876, at today's quoted price of $392.00 retail, Chicago BMW discounted price of $313.60. This is for a 2001 R1100RT(P), and includes everything on the parts diagram except the clutch housing (i.e. items 2 through 9). Individually priced, the parts would cost $338.80 (discounted), which means that the kit saves about $25.00. By contrast, for those who might be interested: a) Replacing just the friction plate and screws runs $134.00 b) Add a pressure plate to (a): $194.80 c) Add a diaphragm spring to (b): $232.40. d) Add the housing cover and it's $338.80, or $313.60 by kit. I'd feel more comfortable with the repair by replacing the spring and pressure plate, but replacing the housing cover seems like real overkill. Perhaps BMW feels that item becomes annealed and has lost it's temper during overheating by the clutch failure. It's a huge extra chunk of change at $107.00. Opinions, anyone?? Absent obvious damage (i.e. fracture), why would one replace the housing cover on a clutch job?/ Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 but replacing the housing cover seems like real overkill The friction disc is squeezed between the pressure plate and the housing cover, both are subject to the same wear and heat. My guess is that if the pressure place is bad, so is the housing cover, and both should be replaced as a pair. In most cases they will not need to be replaced assuming normal use. Stan Link to comment
SWB Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 but replacing the housing cover seems like real overkill The friction disc is squeezed between the pressure plate and the housing cover, both are subject to the same wear and heat. My guess is that if the pressure place is bad, so is the housing cover, and both should be replaced as a pair. In most cases they will not need to be replaced assuming normal use. Stan Yeah, that was the direction I was going. And, unfortunately, I won't know unless I pull the bike apart. So, my decision is (a) "kick for $180.00 more, have the parts on hand, and be near guaranteed that the job will be problem free", or (b) "don't be a fool and waste the money up front, pull it apart first, examine the pressure plate and housing and if they look shiny and not to wavy, keep them, order the parts, wait a week or so to get them with the bike ripped apart in the garage, and maybe a month later, finish the job". I almost always choose option (b), and hate myself for it. Then again, this IS a former LEO bike with only 55K miles on the clock and (apparently) a bad clutch. Everything in there could be fried. This time I think I'm going for option (a), and finish the job (and a bunch of others) in a weekend. Maybe ..... Link to comment
smiller Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 All anyone can say is that at 55k miles and outside of some kind of catastrophic failure it is very unlikely that the pressure plate/housing will need to be replaced. Personally I think it's unlikely enough that I wouldn't order them... but don't quote me... Link to comment
Boffin Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 All anyone can say is that at 55k miles and outside of some kind of catastrophic failure it is very unlikely that the pressure plate/housing will need to be replaced. Personally I think it's unlikely enough that I wouldn't order them... but don't quote me... Sorry, I had to quote you My clutch was killed in 30K miles by my bad habit of downshifting without matching revs. I only replaced the friction plate but the pressure and cover plates had a fair amount of scorring and should probably have been replaced as well. I suspect the new friction plate will not get great life even though I am working on my downshifts. Andy Link to comment
Mulepick Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 All anyone can say is that at 55k miles and outside of some kind of catastrophic failure it is very unlikely that the pressure plate/housing will need to be replaced. Personally I think it's unlikely enough that I wouldn't order them... but don't quote me... Forgive me as well. I agree. Just because you fry a friction plate made of copper wire, asbestos, graham cracker, and whatever else doesn't mean you're going to mess up some bulky hardened steel plates. Mine were a little colored when I went in but, hey, now they won't rust! I think the whole idea is that the friction plate and spring fail well before the other stuff gets close. Mine's doing fine with just the spring, friction plate, bolts, and lube. Bob Link to comment
Ken H. Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Opinions, anyone?? Absent obvious damage (i.e. fracture), why would one replace the housing cover on a clutch job?/ The vast majority of them need only the friction plate. Save yourself the $ unless you get it apart and prove you need more. Then all you have lost is time. Link to comment
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