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R1100RT - Which clutch friction plate??


SWB

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I'm putting together my parts list for a clutch job on my 2001 R1100RT(P). The microfiche (A&S BMW version) lists five different clutch friction plates. Does anyone know what the difference is between them? I checked the four part numbers listed, and it appears that only p/n 21 21 7 670 453 and p/n 21 21 7 670 452 are now valid, and there's about a buck's difference in cost between them. I've heard that RT(P)'s (like my own) have a different, more durable clutch plate, but there's nothing to indicate a difference between the part numbers listed.

 

 

11RTClutch.jpg

 

Also, does anyone happen to have a BMW P/N for a complete clutch kit?

 

 

Thanks.

 

(Note: Credit to Shaman97 for the image, a shameless rip-off, since it was already available from another thread.)

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When I did this same job I called Bobs BMW and just asked em. They steered me in the right direction. They will, of course try to sell you the outer plates as well but they are usually not needed.

 

Cameron

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When in doubt, I go to:

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

 

Their fiche is fine tuned to month/year of production and often removes the spurious options.

 

Bob

 

Very, very good. Actually, a TERRIFIC resource! It should be "stickied" to the top of the oilhead thread. Thx.

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Also, does anyone happen to have a BMW P/N for a complete clutch kit?

 

I got the P/N from Chicago BMW today: P/N 21 21 2 325 876, at today's quoted price of $392.00 retail, Chicago BMW discounted price of $313.60. This is for a 2001 R1100RT(P), and includes everything on the parts diagram except the clutch housing (i.e. items 2 through 9). Individually priced, the parts would cost $338.80 (discounted), which means that the kit saves about $25.00.

 

By contrast, for those who might be interested:

 

a) Replacing just the friction plate and screws runs $134.00

b) Add a pressure plate to (a): $194.80

c) Add a diaphragm spring to (b): $232.40.

d) Add the housing cover and it's $338.80, or $313.60 by kit.

 

I'd feel more comfortable with the repair by replacing the spring and pressure plate, but replacing the housing cover seems like real overkill. Perhaps BMW feels that item becomes annealed and has lost it's temper during overheating by the clutch failure. It's a huge extra chunk of change at $107.00.

 

Opinions, anyone?? Absent obvious damage (i.e. fracture), why would one replace the housing cover on a clutch job?/

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Stan Walker

but replacing the housing cover seems like real overkill

 

The friction disc is squeezed between the pressure plate and the housing cover, both are subject to the same wear and heat. My guess is that if the pressure place is bad, so is the housing cover, and both should be replaced as a pair.

 

In most cases they will not need to be replaced assuming normal use.

 

Stan

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but replacing the housing cover seems like real overkill

 

The friction disc is squeezed between the pressure plate and the housing cover, both are subject to the same wear and heat. My guess is that if the pressure place is bad, so is the housing cover, and both should be replaced as a pair.

 

In most cases they will not need to be replaced assuming normal use.

 

Stan

 

Yeah, that was the direction I was going. And, unfortunately, I won't know unless I pull the bike apart. So, my decision is (a) "kick for $180.00 more, have the parts on hand, and be near guaranteed that the job will be problem free", or (b) "don't be a fool and waste the money up front, pull it apart first, examine the pressure plate and housing and if they look shiny and not to wavy, keep them, order the parts, wait a week or so to get them with the bike ripped apart in the garage, and maybe a month later, finish the job".

 

I almost always choose option (b), and hate myself for it. dopeslap.gif

 

Then again, this IS a former LEO bike with only 55K miles on the clock and (apparently) a bad clutch. Everything in there could be fried. eek.gif

 

This time I think I'm going for option (a), and finish the job (and a bunch of others) in a weekend.

 

Maybe ..... crazy.gif

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All anyone can say is that at 55k miles and outside of some kind of catastrophic failure it is very unlikely that the pressure plate/housing will need to be replaced. Personally I think it's unlikely enough that I wouldn't order them... but don't quote me... grin.gif

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All anyone can say is that at 55k miles and outside of some kind of catastrophic failure it is very unlikely that the pressure plate/housing will need to be replaced. Personally I think it's unlikely enough that I wouldn't order them... but don't quote me... grin.gif

 

Sorry, I had to quote you grin.gif

 

My clutch was killed in 30K miles by my bad habit of downshifting without matching revs. I only replaced the friction plate but the pressure and cover plates had a fair amount of scorring and should probably have been replaced as well. I suspect the new friction plate will not get great life even though I am working on my downshifts.

 

Andy thumbsup.gif

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All anyone can say is that at 55k miles and outside of some kind of catastrophic failure it is very unlikely that the pressure plate/housing will need to be replaced. Personally I think it's unlikely enough that I wouldn't order them... but don't quote me... grin.gif

 

Forgive me as well. I agree. Just because you fry a friction plate made of copper wire, asbestos, graham cracker, and whatever else doesn't mean you're going to mess up some bulky hardened steel plates. Mine were a little colored when I went in but, hey, now they won't rust! I think the whole idea is that the friction plate and spring fail well before the other stuff gets close. Mine's doing fine with just the spring, friction plate, bolts, and lube.

 

Bob

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Opinions, anyone?? Absent obvious damage (i.e. fracture), why would one replace the housing cover on a clutch job?/

The vast majority of them need only the friction plate. Save yourself the $ unless you get it apart and prove you need more. Then all you have lost is time.
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