I have strayed-- Whip me

[Dingo55]

I must confess

I have been seen looking at other brands of motorcycles and seek redemption

I have been shown the error of my ways and have returned to the fold

In the shape of a 2015 R1200RT Ebony metallic (can't wait to see this color in the flesh) 49l top box, foot peg lowering kit, bar risers, keyless, Nav v, cover, book etc

Seller is 6'4'' ( same as me) retired airline pilot (thought I might have got lucky with an Aussie version of BoxFlyer)   

So very much going to be a steep learning curve coming from a few older ( read simpler) oilheads (1998/99 R1100rtr's) and as I have done in the oilhead section of this forum I will be leaning on the vast array of knowledge in the wethead section (thank you in advance)

I have watched Boxflyers amazing productions ( I'm sure that has been what has swayed my decision somewhat)

Must admit I am petrified of the electronic package on these bikes. Scared of frying something out of ignorance

To that my first question

The bike is to be transported cross country in the next few weeks and lob in a depot 400 kms from where I live until I can arrange to go and pick it up and ride it home

My concern is the battery

We are unsure of the battery's age/condition 

The seller doesn't have it on a charger and there will be a lengthy period (maybe 4weeks) from now until it becomes available for me to pick up

If I end up with a battery issue outside of the depot can I easily access the battery with minimal tools? ( where is the battery actually located?) and perhaps jump start it with one of these small battery pack products? (I don't currently own one but willing to purchase and take with me) Suggestion appreciated

If it is ok battery wise and I'm able to ride home what other things will I need to get my head around (features and settings) before setting of through city traffic heading home? 

Sorry for the ramble but as always appreciate any and all advice

Cheers

Mark  

 

[wbw6cos]

You should be able to get a peak at the owner's manual H E R E.  Just select your model and read up on your bike before it arrives..

 

The battery is accessible on the right side, behind the knee panel.  Torx 25 bit driver to removal panel (3 screws,) which should be located under the seat.  I remember @Boxflyer showing  a video how the battery is held in place and how to remove/install it, but I cannot find it at the moment.   A web search yields different returns on videos concerning the removal of the battery.   Perhaps Brad will chime in on the tip for access to that part of the bike.

 

 

Cheers,

 

[Skywagon]

Dingo55....well congratulations.  The learning curve is really small.  You will have it down in no time.  The battery.  It's pretty easy to get to.  There is a plastic panel on the right hand side that just pulls off and the battery is right there.  It's a tight fit. I think it needs T25 Torx.  Take some with you.  There is a bracket that holds it on.  As you begin to slide it out, you may need to disconnect the terminals to get it out.  No special tools...just the wrench to loosen the battery terminals.  Putting it back in can be troublesome if you haven't done it before.  It's about getting that bracket on.  Boxflyer has a video that will show you how to reinstall.  You should be able to get it out and back in under 5 minutes.

 

Now for the battery.  You should just order a new one and be ready.  So much of these bikes depends on a good battery and if yours is from 2015 it is time to replace it.  If it won't start the bike, and you jump it, it may not stay running.  That is why I say get a battery ready now and just not have that issue.

[Skywagon]

William gave me an idea about the manual.  Mine is a 2014.  It's probably about 90% the same as yours.  Here is a copy of my manual you can study up on...

R_0A03_RM_0813_R1200RT_01.pdf

[Scott9999]

5 hours ago, Dingo55 said:

Must admit I am petrified of the electronic package on these bikes. Scared of frying something out of ignorance

 

The electronic gizmo's are a serious, and dangerous distraction.  Everyone is different, but I have found myself looking too long at the computer screen while trying to turn off (or on) the freakin' heated grips, the heated seat, or other stuff that used to be a simple handlebar switch on older bikes.   One MUST discipline himself and pull over, everything you do anything with the wizzy wheel until you can do it almost blindfolded in your garage.  There's simply nothing going on, on your motorcycle dash that's more important than the 80 feet ahead of you, or a mile and a half down the road. NOTHING!  (Not even the speedo or GPS).  

 

I'm not afraid of frying something, and I'm not afraid of dying.  Injury is a real concern, but most of all, I don't want to kill myself (and maybe others) doing something entirely stupid like playing with the radio or suspension or windshield elevation or cruise control .... etc., and etc..   (And, my middle name is "Stupid" all too often.)

[Paul De]

Congrats on the purchase and the Waterhead is a very different experience than an oilhead.  If you could ride it without knowing it was a boxer twin, you might think it wasn't a BMW.  Quicker revving and handling and although some say it does not shift smoothly, coming from a '98/'99 oilhead it will shift like a dream.  My 2015 is still on the original battery and it seems fine, but keep in mind I have kept mine on a tender when it sits for the longer winter lay up period (Upper Midwest states so that is about 4 months)  I have left the bike not on the tender for 3-4 weeks at a time with no ill effects (I will replace it this layup season).   You very likely could be just fine taking the risk, but I wouldn't and there is a chance the battery is the original and/or not shown much love, so in either case it is time for a refresh. As Skywagon suggests,  skip purchasing a booster pack and buy a fresh battery and swap it out at the depot.

[Rob Nowell]

22 hours ago, Dingo55 said:

I must confess

I have been seen looking at other brands of motorcycles and seek redemption

I have been shown the error of my ways and have returned to the fold

In the shape of a 2015 R1200RT Ebony metallic (can't wait to see this color in the flesh) 49l top box, foot peg lowering kit, bar risers, keyless, Nav v, cover, book etc

Seller is 6'4'' ( same as me) retired airline pilot (thought I might have got lucky with an Aussie version of BoxFlyer)   

So very much going to be a steep learning curve coming from a few older ( read simpler) oilheads (1998/99 R1100rtr's) and as I have done in the oilhead section of this forum I will be leaning on the vast array of knowledge in the wethead section (thank you in advance)

I have watched Boxflyers amazing productions ( I'm sure that has been what has swayed my decision somewhat)

Must admit I am petrified of the electronic package on these bikes. Scared of frying something out of ignorance

To that my first question

The bike is to be transported cross country in the next few weeks and lob in a depot 400 kms from where I live until I can arrange to go and pick it up and ride it home

My concern is the battery

We are unsure of the battery's age/condition 

The seller doesn't have it on a charger and there will be a lengthy period (maybe 4weeks) from now until it becomes available for me to pick up

If I end up with a battery issue outside of the depot can I easily access the battery with minimal tools? ( where is the battery actually located?) and perhaps jump start it with one of these small battery pack products? (I don't currently own one but willing to purchase and take with me) Suggestion appreciated

If it is ok battery wise and I'm able to ride home what other things will I need to get my head around (features and settings) before setting of through city traffic heading home? 

Sorry for the ramble but as always appreciate any and all advice

Cheers

Mark  

 

Hey, Mark, relax.  I replaced a 2000 R1100RT with a 2016, and instantly felt a tremendous difference.  I would advise you to accept the difference with love and admiration, because that's how I feel every time I ride my BMW, even after five years.  You have a wealth of information, advice and ideas here, on this site, from knowledgeable and experienced riders.  You're gonna love this bike. 

As for "trading sides," I also own a 2016 Moto Guzzi Eldorado cruiser which I proudly and comfortably ride around town.  It actually turns many more heads than my RT, but is a totally different ride.

Congratulations on your purchase, and enjoy yourself!

[Dingo55]

Hi 

Big thanks to all for your replies

Skywagon your link to the manual wouldn't open

How do I verify my exact model details to pull up the appropriate manual 

I do have the VIN and seem to remember that there is somewhere that you can access your exact bike details

Will certainly be heading home cautiously

I don't use music on motorcycles. Spoils the ride for me. I find it too distracting

I know I'm going to miss the indicator paddle switches from the oilhead ( I love them)

Guess I'll adapt to the new system. Might have difficulty going back and forth from one bike to the other

Looking ahead if I plan to stick with the BMW seat what are my options for a riders backrest?

Thanks again for all your help

Cheers

Mark  

   

 

 

[Hosstage]

When I had to ride a very unfamiliar BMW, l googled the model and hand controls, found some pictures and function notes, so at least I had a rudimentary idea of how most of them worked, including the wonder wheel.

[Paul De]

Hi Dingo55,

 

Here is a PDF of the US spec 2015 R1200RT owners manual.  I downloaded it from the BMW Motorrad USA website some years back (Don't know if they allow that anymore).  I'm sure as far as the general stuff like the battery specification and removal instruction they are likely identical to the Australian spec bike. You should be able to open it with the free version of Adobe Acrobat (the creator of the PDF file format), or a web browser like Google Chrome.   Although, to read the US owners manual you might have to hold your browser upside down being from Australia

 

R_0A13_RM_0815_07.pdf

[Paul De]

7 hours ago, Dingo55 said:

Guess I'll adapt to the new system. Might have difficulty going back and forth from one bike to the other

Looking ahead if I plan to stick with the BMW seat what are my options for a riders backrest?

I too kept my '99R1100RT because my wife still prefers rides on the old boy and at the time we had two homes separated by 5 hours of driving.  Also, I couldn't  do the the trade in because the dealer offer was barely more than the value of the Russell Day Long saddle and the Ohlins shocks alone.   Anyway, the only problems I've had riding both bikes is having to think about the turn signal layout and the once in a while oopsie clutchless shift on the farm tractor '99 transmission.   Now that we are down to one home, the two bikes sit side by side and sadly my '99 is left behind about 90% of the time.  The Waterhead is simply a much better motorcycle.  Even the OEM ESA suspension (Marzocchi?) is nearly as good as the Ohlins that I have on the '99RT.  The '15RT really only comes up short to my '99RT is the "nice bike" comments from the public.  About 4 to 1 better actually.   Something about the smooth curved lines of the oilhead and maybe its Boston Green color gets many more looks and comments VS my San Marzano Blue '15RT.  No matter, my smile is always way bigger when riding the '15RT!

 

Oh yeah, both the '99 and '15 RT  share one quality equally.  They both have OEM saddles that SUCK!.  Both bikes have aftermarket saddles and I didn't wait a year or so on the 2015RT to replace it, it was in the budget on the day I bought it.

[randy]

if it was me, and you trust the seller, I would drop ship a battery to the seller. If he installs it great, if not it is a 30-minute job start to finish, and you are on the road and feeling secure.  

[Dingo55]

Hi All

Appreciate all the feedback and tips

I figured the manual OA13 was probably the correct one

I did wonder what the OA stands for 

Outside America?

Only Australia?

Couldn't imagine Australia being a big enough market to warrant it's own separate publication

But who knows?

Maybe they had to because we speak a different (read better) brand of English

Seem to remember the Oilheads coming into Oz were European spec

Are there significant differences?

Long as I don't have to ride with the rubber side up

Any feedback re Backrest?

Cheers

Mark

 

[Dingo55]

Big apologies to Skywagon

My mistake re link not working

All good

Cheers

Mark 

[Dingo55]

I see on page 134 of the manual not to charge direct to the battery whilst battery is connected to the bike

I was intending to put a charging lead directly to the battery

?

Cheers

Mark 

[RobCO80831]

On 8/15/2022 at 6:08 AM, Dingo55 said:

I see on page 134 of the manual not to charge direct to the battery whilst battery is connected to the bike

I was intending to put a charging lead directly to the battery

?

Cheers

Mark 

That is interesting. I have a 2016 R1200RT and it came prewired with a battery tender connection. I leave it on the battery tender constantly and I haven't had any issues yet. I wonder if they are talking about using a car type charger rather than a trickle charger.

[dirtrider]

On 8/15/2022 at 8:08 AM, Dingo55 said:

I see on page 134 of the manual not to charge direct to the battery whilst battery is connected to the bike

I was intending to put a charging lead directly to the battery

?

Cheers

Mark 

Evening Mark

 

Yes, they have been saying that for a few models now. BMW is worried about the charging voltage going over 15 volts & damaging the electronics. 

 

You can hook directly to the battery ( a LOT of riders do that)  BUT you have to be darn sure that your charger can't go over 15 volts (that is usually due to a desulfation cycle)  so if you do go direct to battery make sure that your charger doesn't ever go into a desulfation cycle. 

[Paul De]

I’m not sure about how other charger-maintainers work with the BMW CANbus electrics. The one I use on my 2015 RT is the Optimate 4 - CANbus Edition which can be set to not use the desulfate function and can be either wired directly to the battery with a harness, or simply plug it into one of the powerlet sockets with the supplied dongle which will wake up the CANbus to open the socket for charging and maintaining.  It seems to do the job well enough to have kept my original OEM battery in good function for 7 years.   I will replace the battery this off season out of an abundance of caution even though it still cranks the bike to life no problem. I am sure other charges are compatible with BMWs electrical systems, so it is worth doing the research to find one in your neck of the woods that does the job at well less than the price of the charger with the rondel logo on its case.

[Dingo55]

Hi all

Thanks for the help

Really appreciated

Still waiting (patiently) for my new toy

 Optima 4 is available nearby but as I already have 3 battery chargers I've been researching the specs on 2 of the more modern of the 3 to see if either of them will do the job safely

Chargers are

1-  Ctek XS 0.8 12V 0.8A

2 - Victron energy IP 65 blue smart charger 12V 5A ( so called because it is smarter than the operator (me) )

 

As far as I can tell No 1 has a desulfation voltage of 14.4 V, Bulk at 14.4V, ABS at 14.4V, Float at 13.6V and pulse at 12.7- 14.4V

No 2 has an ABS voltage of 14.7V, Float voltage of 13.8, and a storage voltage of 13.2 but in a recondition cycle appears it can reach 16.5V

So a couple of questions if I may

Is recondition the same as desulfation?

Can these "smart' chargers take themselves into a recondition/desulfation cycle automatically 

Much to ponder

Cheers

Mark