"Brake Failure" light

[Mark Fritsvold]

I have a R1200RT 2007 model and the "Brake Failure" light started coming on and staying on while the brakes seem to work ok. I'm not sure if the bike is ridable when the light stays on? Anyone else experience this and know if the bike is safe to ride? I am planning on going to Sturgis next week! Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

[DJDixon]

A GS-911 would help to pin this down.  Check to make sure your brake lights work, a stuck front or rear brake switch will give you this fault.  Does the brake failure light appear to be flashing at a faster than normal rate?  This indicates a failure found in the startup test, make sure you don't apply the brakes when you first turn the key on until the tests are completed.

 

I had this on my '06, the GS-911 indicated a bad front switch.  I replaced that switch (the actuator arm was very bent - metal fatigue) and then I got an error on the rear switch, some contact cleaner and some WD-40 freed that up.  Haven't had the issue since, though I'll probably replace the rear switch for peace of mind.  On the '06 with the servo assist brakes it wasn't safe to ride with this error, as it cut off power to the servos both front and rear!

[BMWED]

Most likely a stuck abs motor brush. Common for that year. Just repaired my 07. You can test for that without a gs911.

You can still ride the bike, you just won't have abs or linked braking. I did for over a year.

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, DJDixon said:

A GS-911 would help to pin this down.  Check to make sure your brake lights work, a stuck front or rear brake switch will give you this fault.  Does the brake failure light appear to be flashing at a faster than normal rate?  This indicates a failure found in the startup test, make sure you don't apply the brakes when you first turn the key on until the tests are completed.

 

I had this on my '06, the GS-911 indicated a bad front switch.  I replaced that switch (the actuator arm was very bent - metal fatigue) and then I got an error on the rear switch, some contact cleaner and some WD-40 freed that up.  Haven't had the issue since, though I'll probably replace the rear switch for peace of mind.  On the '06 with the servo assist brakes it wasn't safe to ride with this error, as it cut off power to the servos both front and rear!

Morning  DJDixon

 

You need to verify the model year on these 1200RT hexhead bikes,  your 2006 had the older version I-ABS  wizzy brakes & those used external  brake light switches.

Mark's 2007 has the later IABS Gen2 brakes & those do not have external brake light switches. The gen2 systems use pressure switches inside the ABS module.

 

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Mark Fritsvold said:

I have a R1200RT 2007 model and the "Brake Failure" light started coming on and staying on while the brakes seem to work ok. I'm not sure if the bike is ridable when the light stays on? Anyone else experience this and know if the bike is safe to ride? I am planning on going to Sturgis next week! Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

Morning Mark

 

As for it being safe to ride depends on why the brake warning light is on but in most cases they are perfectly ridable, you just won't have linked brakes or ABS available.

 

 

I agree with BMWED, you should read the brake fault code or codes (a GS-911 or dealer computer is needed) but a Motoscan will give you some brake fault codes. I also agree that there is high possibility that you have a stuck ABS servo motor brush. 

 

In any case you can do a quick test to see if the ABS servo pump motor is working.

 

To do that--  first put motorcycle on center stand,    then turn ignition key to ON (do not start engine), then spin the rear wheel with your foot or have someone else spin  it. 

 

Then simply pull the front brake lever,

 

If the servo pump motor is working (no stuck brush) then the rear wheel will instantly lock up when you pull the front brake lever. If the rear wheel doesn't quickly stop, or lock up, then a good possibility that the ABS servo motor is not working (typically a stuck brush).

 

If you suspect a stuck motor brush you can try using a cut-off broom handle & hammer, or something hard but not damaging, or even a rawhide or plastic mallet to reach in & rap on the sides & top of the ABS module. In s-o-m-e cases that can free up a stuck motor brush.  I have even got a few working again (at least for a while) by riding briskly down a dirt or gravel road with heavy chatter bumps that shake the entire motorcycle like a paint shaker. 

 

The stuck brush is sort of repairable at home (for some anyhow) but it sure isn't easy, or something someone not familiar with drilling out hidden retainers and also with a good understanding of intricate not-made-to-be-disassembled ABS modules. 

 

If you determine that it is a stuck brush then give ModuleMaster a call  (1-208-892-0764)  as they can repair the ABS module at a MUCH lower cost than buying a new one (but I'm not sure about their current repair time frame) 

 

 

[GordonB]

Also check the wiring from the front wheel sensor. There have been cases of the wire shifting then rubbing and cutting against the brake rotor.

[dduelin]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Mark

 

As for it being safe to ride depends on why the brake warning light is on but in most cases they are perfectly ridable, you just won't have linked brakes or ABS available.

 

 

I agree with BMWED, you should read the brake fault code or codes (a GS-911 or dealer computer is needed) but a Motoscan will give you some brake fault codes. I also agree that there is high possibility that you have a stuck ABS servo motor brush. 

 

In any case you can do a quick test to see if the ABS servo pump motor is working.

 

To do that--  first put motorcycle on center stand,    then turn ignition key to ON (do not start engine), then spin the rear wheel with your foot or have someone else spin  it. 

 

Then simply pull the front brake lever,

 

If the servo pump motor is working (no stuck brush) then the rear wheel will instantly lock up when you pull the front brake lever. If the rear wheel doesn't quickly stop, or lock up, then a good possibility that the ABS servo motor is not working (typically a stuck brush).

 

If you suspect a stuck motor brush you can try using a cut-off broom handle & hammer, or something hard but not damaging, or even a rawhide or plastic mallet to reach in & rap on the sides & top of the ABS module. In s-o-m-e cases that can free up a stuck motor brush.  I have even got a few working again (at least for a while) by riding briskly down a dirt or gravel road with heavy chatter bumps that shake the entire motorcycle like a paint shaker. 

 

The stuck brush is sort of repairable at home (for some anyhow) but it sure isn't easy, or something someone not familiar with drilling out hidden retainers and also with a good understanding of intricate not-made-to-be-disassembled ABS modules. 

 

If you determine that it is a stuck brush then give ModuleMaster a call  (1-208-892-0764)  as they can repair the ABS module at a MUCH lower cost than buying a new one (but I'm not sure about their current repair time frame) 

 

 

DR,

 

Thanks for the steps to perform an operational test of the integrated (linked) brakes. I have had mechanically linked brakes on Hondas and check their systems out at service time but I did not know before this thread of a way to check the 2007-2013 RT's electronically linked system.

 

Is it possible for you to describe how or if the Gen2 ABS varies the pressure sent to the rear caliper under different braking situations? Could the front brake remain linked to the rear brake if the ABS was inoperative for instance and if so is there a proportioning device in the module that would vary the amount of pressure to the rear brake if ABS was inoperative? It seems that if the ABS was inoperative and the brakes remain linked the opportunity to lock up the rear wheel with moderate pressure on the lever would be a dangerous situation.

 

Thanks,

 

 

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, dduelin said:

Is it possible for you to describe how or if the Gen2 ABS varies the pressure sent to the rear caliper under different braking situations? Would the front brake remain linked to the rear brake if the ABS was inoperative for instance and if so is there a proportioning device in the module that would vary the amount of pressure to the rear brake if ABS was inoperative? It seems that if the ABS was inoperative and the brakes remain linked the opportunity to lock up the rear wheel with moderate pressure on the lever would be a dangerous situation.

Afternoon Dave

 

I can do that but not in this thread as that would be hijacking Mark's thread about (his) motorcycle. So if you want to start a new thread with your question we can address the operation ,function,  & modulation of the linked I-ABS-gen2 system.