Low beam bulb connector access

[Redman]

09 RT

 

Ah, that indication on the display is saying problem with light in front.

Yep, left low beam is out.

 

Hey, that should be a connector body there.

I suppose is not really a problem, just work with the two bare connectors.

 

but the one wire is frayed some with bare conductors exposed. Maybe I should crimp on another connector.

 

what does anyone think I need to do to get better access to work on that?

 

generic H7 bulb, or anything particular?

 

 

 

[Redman]

To clarify:

I don’t think the frayed wire is the cause of the bulb not lighting. (The bulb looks blackened.) is only a couple strands that have disconnected.

i need to replace the bulb (h7, right?)

 

but I do want to implement something of a repair of the wire before it fails more. But barley can get a couple fingers of one hand in there.

[lkraus]

To replace that connector, I'd take off the whole front fairing and headlight shell. I've had mine off a couple times and it is a fair amount of work, but does not require any special tools. It's the only way I'd be able to get my fat mitts close enough to do a proper job.  I'd order up a pair of ceramic H7 sockets with pigtails and replace both sides while I'm in there.

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Redman said:

09 RT

 

Ah, that indication on the display is saying problem with light in front.

Yep, left low beam is out.

 

Hey, that should be a connector body there.

I suppose is not really a problem, just work with the two bare connectors.

 

but the one wire is frayed some with bare conductors exposed. Maybe I should crimp on another connector.

 

what does anyone think I need to do to get better access to work on that?

 

generic H7 bulb, or anything particular?

 

Morning Redman 

 

You can usually just leave the terminals bare as once connected to the bulb they remain isolated.

 

BUT, in your case if you look closely, not only is the yellow (B+) wire frayed but it looks like the terminal is burnt brown (a sure sign of excess resistance then overheating). Once they turn brown the terminal loses it's tension then becomes pretty useless.  You need a new terminal on the yellow wire.

 

A BMW repair pigtail is very expensive & it is still just a plastic connector that will crumble again.

 

As Larry said, a ceramic H-7 connector with pigtail is the best approach .  A lot of decent auto parts stores carry a ceramic H-7 connector with about 6"of pigtail wires  (get a right angle one to retain your close out cover clearance).

 

I have installed new bulb connector/pig tails on those hexhead  bikes without taking it apart  but it is a REAL PAIN to get your hands (actually hand) in there, work in there, & also see what you are doing. You can try it that way but unless you can work sort of blind & one handed you will probably have to remove what you need to gain access. 

 

On the new H-7 bulb, any 55 watt H-7 will work, just make sure that it isn't a cheap knock-off as you need to use a 55 watt H-7 bulb that is UV protected or UV resistant.  (should say UV safe on the package, or have a UV protection logo on the package).

 

If you want to spend the money & hopefully don't want to mess with that bulb again for while then you can look for a 55 watt H-7 LL (Long Life) they typically are expensive though).

 

   

[Redman]

Thanks

 

thanks

 

i suppose the connector getting hot is why the insulation is gone and maybe why the plastic connector body broke.

 

okay. I now see H7 replacement ceramic connectors seem to be readily available for reasonable cost.

will look to see about what’s needed for the high beam also.

 

I need to look into the “UV safe” rating. At the moment I don’t understand if that is relative to the light the bulb puts out, or if is related to how the bulb responds to sun light….. but anyway, thanks for the info, I will look for that symbol on the packaging.

 

I think I could replace the bulb with gettting just fingers of one hand in there and working blind.

But , me anyway, wiring the replacement connectors is gonna need more hands/fingers and tools and seeing ….. so guess I need to figure what/how to take whatever off/apart.

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

32 minutes ago, Redman said:

 

I need to look into the “UV safe” rating. At the moment I don’t understand if that is relative to the light the bulb puts out, or if is related to how the bulb responds to sun light….. but anyway, thanks for the info, I will look for that symbol on the packaging.

 

Afternoon  Redman

 

UV rating has nothing to do with light output or sunlight. It has to do with the plastic light housing parts.  

 

There must be a reason they make & certify UV safe, UV-Resistant,  bulbs.

[Doctor T]

Uv safe bulbs are used to protect the plastic clear lens of a headlamp. Without a UV safe bulb you may find that too much heat will be focused on the lens of the headlamp. The worse without a UV bulb the lens can melt or mist up the internal lens.

London black Taxi had a recall when they swited to plastic headlamp lens and the bulb was melting the plastic. The new replacement was to fit UV safe bulbs.

[Redman]

7 hours ago, Doctor T said:

Uv safe bulbs are used to protect the plastic clear lens of a headlamp. Without a UV safe bulb you may find that too much heat will be focused on the lens of the headlamp. The worse without a UV bulb the lens can melt or mist up the internal lens.

London black Taxi had a recall when they swited to plastic headlamp lens and the bulb was melting the plastic. The new replacement was to fit UV safe bulbs.

Thanks. I was not finding any (auto parts big box store)(sylvania mostly) that had any UV logo like DR showed.

 

Also:

the basic H7 were $16 and had a somewhat yellow indication.

The “silver star” had a more white indication on the packaging, and were $26. I got that one since my existing lights seemed quite white not the yellow tint.
the ultra were supposedly brighter and $38.

[Redman]

On 7/23/2022 at 7:04 AM, dirtrider said:

 . . . 

BUT, in your case if you look closely, not only is the yellow (B+) wire frayed but it looks like the terminal is burnt brown (a sure sign of excess resistance then overheating). Once they turn brown the terminal loses it's tension then becomes pretty useless.  You need a new terminal on the yellow wire.

……..

Thanks

after I got better access (more on that later), yah, that connector is discolored from overheating, and was real loose. And the wire was stiff too.
 

I did pinch it to close it up more, and then it fit real tight.

 

yah, does need to be replaced.

after I get a service manaul (expect in a couple days), will figure out how to get even better access so can replace the connectors.

(Expect some of the replacment ceramic connectors in a couple days).

[Redman]

I was able to figure out how to remove the side fairing panel. Just a few easy to find screw. Removing that side fairing panel gave me a little more access, enough to kinda be able to see and get fingers (or needle nose plyers) in there.

 

was enough access to replace the bulb. But not really enough access to replace the connector(s).

[Doctor T]

Really bad design with modern fully faired bikes where you have to all most dismantal the bike just to replace a bulb. I changed mine from beneath, lucky i have a wife with long fingers

[dirtrider]

36 minutes ago, Doctor T said:

Really bad design with modern fully faired bikes where you have to all most dismantal the bike just to replace a bulb. I changed mine from beneath, lucky i have a wife with long fingers

Morning Doctor T

 

But most don't have to dismantle anything to change the 1200RT hexhead  headlight bulb. A decent dealer tec can usually do it in under 2 minutes without dismantling anything other than rolling up their sleeve.  A good many owners/riders  can do it without removing anything except the dust covers. 

 

If a rider can't do it themselves then there are dealer tecs that can do it for them without disassembling anything. 

 

There are a great number of automobiles that require a LOT more parts removal to replace a headlight bulb than the BMW 1200RT does.  

 

Modern vehicles are not designed for do-it-yourself repairs, it can figure into design but that is WAY/WAY down the list of design, build, & functional concerns. 

 

What motorcycle would you buy, one that looks like a farm tractor with good access to light bulbs & other maintenance or repair areas. Or one that is modern & sleek looking with good flowing lines, good arrow for better fuel economy,  electrically adjustable windscreen, flush fitting headlights, integrated faring that looks modern & compact?  

 

Personally I way more question the use of H-7 light bulbs than the access to replace those bulbs.  But if H-7 bulbs are used then I question the way they are initially  powered up on the BMW 1200RT's. They should have come on at initial key on (at a low to mid 12v) to pre warm the bulbs at a lower voltage, then go out during engine cranking (to remove the light draw while cranking) THEN come back on at 14+ volts or so after engine starting. (yes, just like the previous 1150RT did)

 

Personally, I use H-9 bulbs (more robust filament) in an H-7 base in my personal 1200RT hexhead & it goes years without a headlight bulb failure (plus I get a bit more light output).   

 

 

[Doctor T]

D.R.  Do H9 bulbs have the same fitting as a H7?.

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, Doctor T said:

D.R.  Do H9 bulbs have the same fitting as a H7?.

Morning Doctor T

 

No, the filament is not as tightly wound (personally I believe that is what gives it longer life). The problem is in finding the H-9 bulb on an H-7 base as the original Osram H-9 on an H-7 base are no longer available & the replacement for those are extremely expensive. 

 

There is possibly another alternative__ A number of auto manufactures have had short life issues with H-7 bulbs so they requested a few of the light manufactures to come up with an LL (Long-Life) H-7.  The problem is those don't usually put out as much light as the standard H-7 bulbs do.  

 

 

[Doctor T]

Makes sence regarding the filament. I have Phillips bulbs at the moment. They seem to give a good light output

[dirtrider]

1 minute ago, Doctor T said:

Makes sence regarding the filament. I have Phillips bulbs at the moment. They seem to give a good light output

Morning Doctor T

 

Before I switched to the H-9 on an H-7 base I was just about to wire in a headlight relay system to allow the H-7's to pre-light at nominal (engine off) mid 12v. Then go to resisted operation for DRL (Day Light Running) lights to operate at a lower  voltage during the day  (like some automobiles run their H-7 bulbs), then come back on at full voltage at night. 

 

The Osram  H-9 on an H-7 base pretty well stopped my headlight 1200RT issues so that is as far as ever it went. 

[Doctor T]

Ive always wondered why the headlamps need to come on before the engine has started. I can't see anything on the subject the EU rules stating they must be lite on turning on the ignition on

[dirtrider]

15 minutes ago, Doctor T said:

Ive always wondered why the headlamps need to come on before the engine has started. I can't see anything on the subject the EU rules stating they must be lite on turning on the ignition on

Morning  Doctor T

 

It usually has to do with the way the headlights are wired & operate in the pre-computer-controlled-headlight era.

 

In the older (say BMW 1100/1150 era) there was no computer module to control headlight operation so the headlights were either wired to be (on) all the time that the key (ign switch) was on (US motorcycles) or to be controlled by an on/off switch (European models).

 

But BMW (correctly) wanted the headlight load (& a few other loads) to be removed during engine cranking so they used a very simple load relief (Load Shed) relay with relay's pull-in coil wired into the starter circuit. Any time the starter was initialized the load relief relay contacts would open & remove power to the headlight. (very simple but very effective circuit)      

[lkraus]

1 hour ago, Doctor T said:

Ive always wondered why the headlamps need to come on before the engine has started. I can't see anything on the subject the EU rules stating they must be lite on turning on the ignition on

The Hexhead low beams don't stay on until the engine is started. The ZFE does check the bulbs when the ignition is turned on but does not turn them on until the engine starts. I did not notice the check with the standard H-7 bulbs, but it causes a very noticeable flash of my HID bulbs. (I switched my low beams to HID after three H-7 bulbs failed in less than a year.) My theory is that the rapid heating/cooling from that check is weakening the H7 filaments and reducing their life.

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, lkraus said:

My theory is that the rapid heating/cooling from that check is weakening the H7 filaments and reducing their life.

Afternoon Larry 

 

That does make some sense but I don't think the ZFE sends enough current with the voltage to heat the H-7 filaments, at least I can't see it even slightly glow in the dark when I key-on in the dark. (but it sounds possible if it puts enough current into the filament long enough to actually heat the filament). 

 

My own personal 800GS (including a number of other 800GS riders that I know) also kind of disproves that as the 800GS has H-7 headlight bulbs, those bikes also don't bring the headlight on until after engine starting.  Plus the 800GS also does a headlight circuit check at initial key-on like the 1200RT does.  (quick low current voltage pulse).

 

I know of very/very few BMW 800GS bikes (including my own)  that regularly fail H-7 bulbs like the 1200RT does. And we beat those 800GS bikes down some very rough trails, large chatter bumps, & (well pretty rough treatment anyhow).  At least I  have not seen any regular occurring, or short time frame failures, like I do on the 1200 motorcycles.

 

The BIG difference between the 1200RT & the 800GS is in the charging systems. The automotive type alternator on the 1200RT is on-line & charging as soon as the engine fires off. On the other side the 800GS uses a much lower output permanent magnet rotor with a fixed output (3 phase) stator (external over-current into heat regulator). The rotor to stator is also running in heavy oil so it takes a short time for the charging output to kick in & ramp up the charging. I have a voltmeter on my 800GS so I can watch the charging voltage slowly ramp up after engine starting with sometimes I am actually moving before it is over 13 volts output. Depending on the temperature that motorcycle usually charges at 14.2-14.4 volts at higher RPM's but does drop off a little at hot-engine curb idle.  

 

On my 1200RT I can actually turn the headlight off by holding the turn signal cancel button down for about 7-8 seconds, then releasing the cancel button,  then simply holding the right turn signal button down for about 7-8 seconds or until the headlight goes out. 

 

Problem is, that unlike the very early 1200RT's on my later 1200RT the headlight will come back on instantly as soon as it sees a wheel speed.