Mounting your own tires, Dunlop RS4

[Cap]

This is mainly a post about the changes to the Dunlop Roadsmart IV that make it easier for those of us that mount our own tires.  Previously, the Roadsmart rear tires had very stiff sidewalls, and were a challenge to mount.  I think the Bridgestone T31 and T32 GT tires were in the same category -- very stiff.

 

Recently my set of T32 tires wore out with only 3500 miles.  I would typically get more wear out of the previous generation T31, and I was disappointed.  The T32's are great tires for riding the twisties, but I had hoped for longer service.  I looked around for another brand to try, and considered the Continental Road Attack 3's.  But instead I found a sale on Dunlop Roadsmart IV's, buy a set and get a credit for the cost of the front tire.  Net cost for the set was $210 from Chapmoto. 

 

I cringed when I made the order, because I have wrestled with Dunlop Roadsmart rear tires before.  It was not fun.  Reading the new promotional material for the RS4's gave me some hope: there is some marketing mumbo jumbo about new tire bead and sidewall designs.  Well, guess what?  The mumbo jumbo is correct.  These tires are much easier to mount at home.  I set the rear tire in the sun for an hour, applied lubricating paste to the rim, and then prepared myself for battle.  And they spun right on without a fight.  Wow, I am a fan.  Now, we'll see how long they last, and how they handle.

 

Cap

[DakarTimm]

What brand tools are you using to remove and mount the tires ?

[Rougarou]

6 hours ago, Cap said:

This is mainly a post about the changes to the Dunlop Roadsmart IV that make it easier for those of us that mount our own tires.  Previously, the Roadsmart rear tires had very stiff sidewalls, and were a challenge to mount.  I think the Bridgestone T31 and T32 GT tires were in the same category -- very stiff.

 

Recently my set of T32 tires wore out with only 3500 miles.  I would typically get more wear out of the previous generation T31, and I was disappointed.  The T32's are great tires for riding the twisties, but I had hoped for longer service.  I looked around for another brand to try, and considered the Continental Road Attack 3's.  But instead I found a sale on Dunlop Roadsmart IV's, buy a set and get a credit for the cost of the front tire.  Net cost for the set was $210 from Chapmoto. 

 

I cringed when I made the order, because I have wrestled with Dunlop Roadsmart rear tires before.  It was not fun.  Reading the new promotional material for the RS4's gave me some hope: there is some marketing mumbo jumbo about new tire bead and sidewall designs.  Well, guess what?  The mumbo jumbo is correct.  These tires are much easier to mount at home.  I set the rear tire in the sun for an hour, applied lubricating paste to the rim, and then prepared myself for battle.  And they spun right on without a fight.  Wow, I am a fan.  Now, we'll see how long they last, and how they handle.

 

Cap

 

I had to cut a Roadsmart off.  Didn't have much issue putting it on, but coming off wasn't happening.

 

2 hours ago, DakarTimm said:

What brand tools are you using to remove and mount the tires ?

 

 

[Cap]

4 hours ago, DakarTimm said:

What brand tools are you using to remove and mount the tires ?

I have a No-Mar Classic HD with cam-blocks.  I use the No-Mar bar to remove the tires, and a Mojo lever to put them on.  I use a boat strap to keep the wheel from spinning in the machine, which is generally necessary on GT rear tires, but not on front tires.  I have a yellow thing to use during the install.  I use the No-mar paste in a couple of spots on the rim drop center during install, and Ru-Glide on the tire beads.  To help with difficult dismounts, I have a couple of spring loaded rim clamps that help keep the opposite side of the bead in the drop center while I hook the loose bead and pull it over the edge of the rim.

[fatbob]

They are stiff tires yes.    I have not had too much trouble on my 1150 RT wheel but it is a real fight on my K1600 wheel.   Very shallow valley on that rim.   Using No Mar for 20 years.   I will not put another set of RoadSmarts on the K16 for that reason.   Otherwise I like them a lot.   I honestly anticipate having to cut the rear to get it off like Rougarou.   

[Lemans]

On 7/15/2022 at 5:48 PM, Cap said:

I have a No-Mar Classic HD with cam-blocks.  

Interesting that you use the cam blocks and still need to strap the tire to the wheel. I guess that's another NoMar accessory I can do without. I don't understand how some can rotate a mounted but not seated tire on the rim for optimal balance. Even with four hand working, we're lucky to gain an inch or so to line up the dot with the valve. The Mojo bar is a game-changer for use with the NoMar device. Highly recommended.

BTW...a sawzall will dismount even the stiffest GT grade tire. DAMHIK.

[6speedTi]

I have the No Mar as well but I had to cut the tire off the rim with a high speed grinder. Even my bridgestone tires were a pain. I'm done using the No Mar. I'm going to invest in a tire changer so I can do all my vehicles. Tire changer combos with balancers have come down in price since more manufacturers entered the market for the DIY's. 

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Lemans said:

 I don't understand how some can rotate a mounted but not seated tire on the rim for optimal balance. Even with four hand working, we're lucky to gain an inch or so to line up the dot with the valve. 

Afternoon Lemans

 

Most modern M/C tires are so well balanced as built that rotating usually doesn't gain you much (A number don't even have a light or heavy balancing dot any longer)

 

But if you need to rotate one I just use 3 deep jaw welding clamps at even intervals to squeeze the side walls in a little, that allows pretty easy rotation on the rim. (if careful, large "C" clamps will also work)

 

[Twisties]

I found the RS III's to be fine.  I did have difficulty with one of the earlier models.  Haven't mounted a IV yet.  NoMar works fine for me.  

[Scott9999]

On 7/15/2022 at 9:48 AM, Cap said:

I set the rear tire in the sun for an hour,

Definitely, +1.  Hadn't thought of that before, and it's kind of obvious.   I always thought 250 lbs + (not tellin'!) of bulk pressing down on the tire as I jumped on the rims was the trick.  😏

 

Not afraid to mount my own, and I have a Marc Parnes balancing rig in the motorcycle toolbox, but man-oh-man, do I look for every opportunity to get 'em mounted professionally (if the price is right).  Not fun.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

On 7/15/2022 at 8:48 PM, Cap said:

I use the No-Mar bar to remove the tires, and a Mojo lever to put them on.  I use a boat strap to keep the wheel from spinning in the machine, which is generally necessary on GT rear tires, but not on front tires.  I have a yellow thing to use during the install.  I use the No-mar paste in a couple of spots on the rim drop center during install, and Ru-Glide on the tire beads.  To help with difficult dismounts, I have a couple of spring loaded rim clamps that help keep the opposite side of the bead in the drop center while I hook the loose bead and pull it over the edge of the rim.

 

Hooking the bead on the demount knob and flopping the whole lever down flat against the rim is the moment when the demount knob tip is most likely to bend/break.  You're on the right track with that last sentence, i.e. getting the rest of the bead out of the rim's bead seat and down into the rim's drop-center.  For really stubborn rims, get as much length of that bead down in the drop-center as you can, and have an assistant shove it around the rim to push as much slack as possible toward where your demount tool is.  Also, too much lube is almost enough.

 

Same goes for mounting: get as much of the already-mounted bead down into the drop-center as you can, up to within a few inches of the mount end of your lever.  Any part of the bead that's resting in the rim's bead seat is taking up valuable slack and will make your mounting task more difficult.  

 

[dirtrider]

Quote

For really stubborn rims, get as much length of that bead down in the drop-center as you can, and have an assistant shove it around the rim to push as much slack as possible toward where your demount tool is.  Also, too much lube is almost enough.

Morning Mitch

 

That right there is the key to the whole "mount your own tire" thing.

 

Personally, I use small blocks of hardwood, different sizes with some rectangular instead of square to hold the tire bead down off the rim far enough to stay in the center rim depression. 

 

Once I break the bead loose those blocks go in the bottom bead to keep that from trying to re-seat itself  as I work on the removing the upper bead. 

 

Reinstalling the tire I pretty well seat the first tire bead then use those blocks to hold the lower bead up off the rim flange, then use more wooden blocks  to follow along & keep the top bead down in that rim center recess. 

 

I have tried those plastic thingies to hold the bead away from the rim but personally I like wooden blocks better (maybe I'm just more used to them as I have used wooden blocks since way before those store bought plastic  ones were available). 

 

Once you figure it out then even a mid 1980's GoldWing rear tire is easier, note I didn't say easy, but easier.  Those things can test your endurance &  probably also test your swear-word vocabulary.