On 2014 R12RT old style 49 liter top case bottom cracking.

[Bobzilla19]

In the process of taking apart my 2014 R12RT's 49 liter top case (old style) for painting I noticed some serious cracking on the bottom of the case. Since both the top and bottom of the case are double walled, I will need to be able to get to the inside of the outer bottom case to possibly be able to fix the cracks via some plastic welding. The same for the top for painting.
Has anyone out there ever split apart the double walls of either the top or bottom of the 49 liter top case. I've removed all the screws from the top half and have not been able to separate the 2 walls. Due to my experience with the top, I have not yet tried to remove all the screws from the bottom. Anyone out there have any experience splitting apart the double walls of either the top or bottom of old style 49 liter top case? Any insight to the process (if it's even possible) would be greatly appreciated. Thx!

[Cap]

I am posting some screen captures from a YouTube Video

 

First take the top lid off by removing the 4 hinge bolts.  Then, remove all the Torx Screws from the inside of the case.  There are 3 different types: 2 machine screws, and 2 small Torx plastic screws, and several larger Torx plastic screws.  A couple of the larger screws are longer than the others.  Obviously, it will be helpful later if you can remember which ones go in which holes.  There are also some rubber gaskets and some stainless washers that will fall out and get lost.  You have been warned. 

 

You can remove all the interior screws except the upper two on the latch side (rear) of the topcase, and the two machine screws on the left rear wall as you face the interior looking aft.

 

Then, you need to lift the latch and remove the two 8mm nuts and the two torx screws under the latch handle.

 

After you do that, the latch handle will come off.  At that point you can start pulling the case apart.  You need to separate the rear clamshells first, to clear the studs that are sticking through the exterior clamshell.  At that point you can lift the interior starting at the rear and then angle it out.

 

Here are some pics that might help: This one looks under the latch handle, and shows the stud(s) sticking out after the nuts are removed

 

The next one shows the interior clamshell separated with the lock assembly attached.  If you remove the upper rear screws from the inside of the clamshell, and the two machine screws, then the lock assembly will come off.  In your case, you should probably leave it attached. 

 

When you start putting it back together, you need to feed the sliding latch mechanism into its track, while holding the latch handle at the open position.  Until you have everything properly positioned, it won't fit right, and the latch handle won't activate properly.  Easier than it sounds.  

 

I found it useful to have a ratcheting 8mm box end wrench, a small ratcheting T25 bit, an upholstery pry tool, and an electric bit driver.

 

Hope this helps, Cap

[lkraus]

I think the lid is held together with adhesive or possibly a heavy duty double-stick tape. I've not heard of a successful disassembly of the lid.  Just mask it for painting.

[Bobzilla19]

Thx Larry.  The general consensus seems to be that the top does not come apart and that the hinges, etc. will need to be taped off.  Good to know before I broke something!  

Thx to Cap for providing guidance on disassembling the bottom.  It's always nice to know where you're headed with no big surprises in store for you!

 

Bob

2014 R12RT

Santa Cruz, CA