What to look for on a Hexhead

[Tpoppa]

I've owned a few boxers over the years including a R1200R wet head that I'll probably never part with.

 

I've not owned a Hex head but am considering picking up an RT.  Currently looking at a few including an '05 RT with around 50k that appears to be well maintained.

 

I'm sure it's been asked before...can someone point me to a list of things to check for on a used Hex head?

 

 

Thanks...  

[Rotor]

Tpoppa,

Sorry others haven't chimed-in sooner.

I’ve been away from this model for a bit and I’m relearning many things I’ve forgotten from years past.  However, I just picked up a 2005 RT and I can only tell you the things that were of concern to me.

Check the final drive unit.  Place your hands at 5 and 11 on the wheel, wiggle back and forth and see if you can feel any play in the final drive.  Try it again at 3 and 9.  If no play, drive is likely alright.

Look to where the rear of the engine mates to the transmission.  It’s hard to see but try to look in the area just above the catalytic converter.  It should be dry.  If it appears wet and/or you see evidence of oil in that area it could be the balancer shaft or other seals leaking.  I consider that an expensive repair.

Lastly, regarding bikes between the years of 2005 and 2013 I tried to avoid any with more than 25,000 miles.  Dry clutch is the reason.  Many riders have no idea how to operate a dry clutch bike.  It’s just my personal opinion; but I figure if you find an older bike with less than 25,000 miles on it the clutch should be good enough to warrant the purchase (if it hasn’t been towing a trailer).

I’m sure others will chime in with more information – maybe even to counter what I’ve said.  Honestly, I can't believe you had to wait 9 hours just to hear from me...

[wbw6cos]

I am not a Hexhead owner, but I have read about a few of them H E R E .   I am not sure if it is possible for you to inspect those during a test ride, but it is food for thought.

[Rougarou]

My '06 has 145k on it.  Only had a few issues.  Tranny rebuilt, then ended up replacing.  All I talked to said that it was extremely rare that the tranny would go bad.  This happened at around the 70k mark.

 

Other than that, it's been small things (stick coil, front shock, a fuel thingy), but those would be expected for the amount of miles the bike gets. 

 

I got the bike when it had 5800 on it in 2010 and have been riding it like I stole it since.

 

Can't really tell you any specific thing to look for as I've nary a complaint about my bike.  Currently, the only thing that actually doesn't work is the little red light indicating the cruise control is active.  She's ugly, but I'm also a function over form kinda guy.  Also, I've never test ridden any bike I bought (and very few cars/trucks)

 

Good luck

[9Mary7]

Later hex heads do not have the whizzy brakes like the 05-06's..... and fuel gauge strip was a problem until 08 IIRC.

 

I loved my 05 R1200ST but it was a unicorn in that it did not have ABS so the brakes were wonderfully crisp and had great feel.

[aggieengineer]

I've owned two, an '06 and '08. The later has been by far the more reliable. Personally I would stay away from the earlier models just because of the potential expense of keeping them in operation. I have to wonder what it would cost to get into the servo brake system for example. If memory serves, a bearing change in the final drive took place around the 2007 timeframe, My first bike had a failure, the '08 has been fine for 52K miles. I would factor in cost to replace the throttle cams. Mine were both cracked.

The Hexhead has been my favorite road bike, and it will likely never be sold....at least by me. If you don't mind doing a bit of wrenching on occasion (and they are very easy to work on), I find them to be a very desirable machine.

 

[dirtrider]

On 6/3/2022 at 8:41 AM, Tpoppa said:

I've owned a few boxers over the years including a R1200R wet head that I'll probably never part with.

 

I've not owned a Hex head but am considering picking up an RT.  Currently looking at a few including an '05 RT with around 50k that appears to be well maintained.

 

I'm sure it's been asked before...can someone point me to a list of things to check for on a used Hex head?

 

 

Thanks...  

Morning  Tpoppa

 

The 2005 hexhead isn't a bad motorcycle, but the later the better when it comes to the hexhead line. 

 

The 2005 had some (possible) issues like oil seeps or small oil leaks (the balance shaft & front engine cover was changed on later hexheads to reduce or eliminate oil leaks.

 

The 2005 hexhead  final drives also had the early smaller pinion bearing so there were some failures with those.

 

The  2005 hexhead had the smaller (more prone to failure drive shaft) later hexheads had a more robust driveshaft.

 

The early hexheads also came with the more failure prone low-fin FPC (Fuel Pump Controller), when those failed it was usually a walk home deal. Fortunately, on most early 1200 bikes most of the FPC's have been replaced with the later high-fin black FPC's. (just something to look into)

 

The early 2005/2006 I-ABS brake system was based on the older wizzy braking system, the later 1200 hexheads had the non-wizzy  I-ABS gen2 brake system (more conventional braking but they still had a few problems). The difference is that the later I-ABS gen2  was usually repairable as it just involved stuck ABS motor brushes. 

 

As mentioned above possible cracked throttle body cams but I have actually found fewer cracked 2005 hexhead cams than on the later hexhead motorcycles. 

 

The early hexheads came with sealed for life final drives (no drain plug on the bottom) but after some early failures the final drive service was reinstated so the drive link needs to be unbolted then the drive shaft pulled loose at the rear to tip-down & drain the final drive (a pain in the a$$), then the drive could be re-filled through the ABS wheel sensor hole. BUT, look at the drive on the motorcycle that you intend to buy as a number of those early final drives were replaced under warranty by the later serviceable final drives.

 

If you really want a hexhead motorcycle then the 2007 & up is probably a slightly better motorcycle with the 2008 & 2009 being even better yet. (not much difference between the late 2008 & the 2009). 

 

The 2008-2009 hexhead still had the possible cracking TB cams, possible sticking ABS motor brush issues, a brake line to ABS module leak recall, a rear wheel flange recall, a few final drive sealed crown bearing failures, an occasional TB stepper failure, etc but for the most part a pretty decent motorcycle (plus the few problems that they had were repairable) .

 

They ALL (all hexhead RT's)  had a high number or fuel gauge fuel strip failures, BMW did extend the warranty on those but by now most of those extended fuel strip warranties have run out. 

 

 

 

 

[Tpoppa]

I appreciate the insight.

The RT is on my short list for a 2 up bike.  The wife prefers the new Gold Wing, but I'm not ready to drop 30k on one :)

[aggieengineer]

The pertinent question is, is your wife ok with you buying a new Gold Wing? Happy wife, happy life. I'd certainly consider a later boxer for two-up travel, but the hexhead would not be my first choice.

[Ponch]

Unless you and your wife are lightweights, a Goldwing would be a much better choice. So would a K1600 and even the big twin tourers or BMWs R18. One up touring, the RT is great. 

[MikeB60]

No better two up sport touring machine than a K1600GT from my perspective. You can find a low mileage 2013 to 2016 for less than 14000.  They are heavy but once it's moving you really don't notice it.  Gold Wings are ok but not even in the same league performance wise.