Warning Light

[Rinkydink]

2022 R1250RT

Riding from Rawlins WY to Cody WY. Warning on dash comes up…

 

“Distance Control Failed-Onward Journey Possible.”

 

Had new tires installed in Sandy UT. Ridden three days since in rain and snow. I checked ABS wires connection and all looked good. Restarted bike and fault is gone. No dealer until we reach Spearfish SD. A little unsettling in a rural setting. 

[reg26]

Sounds like it has something to do with Adaptive Cruise Control ?

[Skywagon]

RinkyDink....would have dealer check...and not really related, but on my car if the front camera gets too dirty and I have the Adaptive turned on, I will get a very similar warning.  Since you've been in slush, might just check camera visibility.

[wbw6cos]

Falling rain will also affect the radar portion of the cruise control.  

[Rinkydink]

1 hour ago, reg26 said:

Sounds like it has something to do with Adaptive Cruise Control ?

Duh, that makes sense. The two Wyoming State patrolmen that gave us a warning for doing 77 in a 70 didn’t have a clue either!!😳

 

Warning light has cleared again. I was thinking maybe stopping distance but there is no ABS fault.  I’ll still have the dealer in Sturgis look at it. 
Thanks guys. 
 

And I am still thinking I have a Wethead. 

[Rinkydink]

So, I stopped into Sturgis Motorsports this morning and the service tech told me the warning was related to the speedometer/odometer losing sync with each other. A computer reflash is supposed to fix it. They were booked solid so I will try to get it done on the way home. No more warnings coming up so far. That’s progress I guess. 

[Skywagon]

I wonder if you disconnected the battery for 15 minutes or so if it would reset. Let us know final outcome. Interesting.

[Yuro]

Distance Control is about Active Cruise and it's definitely camera related, either camera alignment or just something obstructing the camera....maybe a big bug?    

 

I don't believe the dealer in this case.    

 

Welcome to the wonderful and mysterious world of Active Cruise Control.    I've had it on 2 cars now and I will go out of my way to avoid it from now on.  

 

It's more trouble than it's worth on a multi-lane highway.    I found it was the most useful for just following traffic on my 2-lane drive to work.    Speed limit 45, I'd set it for 55 and leave it.   On the big roads, someone pulls in front of you...as is pretty normal in Chicago expressway traffic, and the thing mashes the brakes creating a rear-end hazard.  That's not fun!!!!    

 

 

It also brakes too much approaching a slower car.  Interval between vehicles shouldn't be a static distance, it should flex in favor of smooth, safe operation and good fuel economy.  So, I'm always tricking the system, turning it on and off at the right times to create the right amount of coasting and the smooth speed and distance control I desire.   Standard Cruise is easier to use and less of a maintenance headache.  

 

One of the reasons I got a GSA this time instead of an RT was because the GSA big option pack doesn't come with Active Cruise Control.   I don't want cameras and sensors on my bike.  

 

I also want real GPS so I can find my way where there's no cell service.  That's where I need it the most.   I got my Nav VI replaced for the 2nd time recently.  Garmin has finally updated them and I think this one will finally work well for me.   They had a touch screen grid that wasn't up to the task before.  I think it's finally sorted.   Hope so.