First Time Trailering the RT - Thoughts

[Pocono]

So I prefer not to trailer and just ride; but, sometimes in the spirit of compromise...

I had scanned a couple of posts on this and at least one recommended in the rear to go to the bracket that the pillions foot rest attaches to, but that ultimately leads to the area I chose to go around.  I think for good measure and redundancy I am going to take 2 more leads from the point on top of the shocks straight out to the top of the sides of the trailer.  Figure that will also give me a bit more of the left/right stabilization.   I miss not being able to crank down and forward on the handlebars, 2 straps and done. the dirt days...  

[TEWKS]

Should be good, I think.  I did double up my soft ties and straps up front on my last um, trailer incident.   Sometimes it just makes sense. 

[Hosstage]

After a few miles, pull over to double check the straps, but looks good.

[Pocono]

Yeah I just rigged up this trailer for the trip, here to SE West Virginia about 350 miles and mostly interstate.  The aluminum has some interesting flex over a regular steel trailer and I think 10, 30 then 100 mile interval strap checking will be in order.   Just wish I could have gotten a little higher up front - good thing these boxers have a low COG by design!  

[TEWKS]

I was a second from mentioning that. Another two inches forward would of given you a bit more tongue weight for a more stable ride.

Avoiding this. But, maybe you’re fine. 

 

 

[Pocono]

Hard to tell from the angle of the photos but I am jut weight forward of the axle so hopefully no death wobble, I took it out for a little spin and she seemed to track fine.

[92Merc]

The manual actually shows you where to attach the straps.  Up front, use the Y portion of the front telelever suspension.  That will hold the bike well without potentially causing damage to the suspension tubes/seals.

 

Out back, BMW recommends the passenger peg bracket holes.  You'd have to go to the back of the trailer though.  Straight out isn't as good.

 

But I think the way you have it in the pictures is fine.

[MikeB60]

15 hours ago, Pocono said:

Yeah I just rigged up this trailer for the trip, here to SE West Virginia about 350 miles and mostly interstate.  The aluminum has some interesting flex over a regular steel trailer and I think 10, 30 then 100 mile interval strap checking will be in order.   Just wish I could have gotten a little higher up front - good thing these boxers have a low COG by design!  

I've got the same trailer and just pulled my R1250GS about 650 miles back to the house.  As with any trailer the straps need an initial check after about 50 miles or so.  Never needed to adjust a second time.  It should ride fine with how you have it strapped down.    

 

[randy]

I have trailered literally close to a hundred different bikes around 100,000 miles

1. of course you do not want to hit your painted parts but always put the triple tree straps as wide as possible.  In your picture I think you could go over two more slots, but it might be an optical illusion.

2. never tighten down the suspension, you want the bike to move just like you were riding it.  I think an RT has about 5.5" of travel.  and with a normal person sitting on it, with correct sag I am guessing around 1"-1.5" of travel is used. so when tightening the straps I would not use more than 2" and hopefully just the 1.5" of normal suspension usage.  

3. If possible (I trailer a lot so I have a bigger investment in items) you do not want to tie down the rear portion of the bike.  Instead ideally you would tie down the rear tire.  That way the rear suspension is moving/working as normal.  There are number of specific rear tire tie downs on the market.  If you have ever seen a car being trailered you will see straps on the wheels to tie down the car, it is similar on a bike.
4. NEVER use hooks to connect a bike to a trailer.  IF you follow these rules and hit a large bump or pot hole, the suspension can collapse enough for hooks to come off.  In your picture is looks like you have done it right so, again there is no reason to fully compress the suspension

5. As noted the trailer weight distribution is VERY important.  Follow the vehicles/trailer manufacture's recommendation.  I also have an aluma trailer, but I pull it with a Dodge 2500 diesel.  So my tongue weight will be different than your set up.  I usually do 55% in front of the trailer axel and 45% on and behind the trailer axle.  To me that is a good starting point.  Then as I drive I can notice if the trailer is tracking/moving/swaying and adjust my load as necessary.  It takes a little trial and error, but once I have it down, I just make notes and follow them going forward

I enjoy riding WV on both my dual sport and street bike.  Enjoy your riding and be safe.

[Fast1]

Here is how I secured and trailered my new RT home mid March for a distance of 350 miles. No drama but probably a bit oversecure.

 

 

[Pocono]

Nearly a 1000 miles up and back and she looked nearly perfect.  A tiny bit of slack appeared after about 50 miles and again after a rain shower, nothing that I thought would be a problem but glad I kept checking.  You could see the upper suspension move freely on bigger bounces.... Another thing for anyone else and new this previously from other bike, disable the alarm... South Eastern West Virginia and Virginia adjacent offered plenty of goo riding... the Gov. dedicated the Trail while there, a 300 mile loop of existing roads, 92 & 219 I think...  more  marketing maneuver I reckon...