Head Light issues

[bulletbill]

[JohnTC]

On my 2010, my low beam lights last maybe 14,000 miles.   Almost like clockwork.  Change 'em out and they're good for several months.  More than that, I don't personally know.

[dirtrider]

7 hours ago, bulletbill said:

Morning   bulletbill

 

As John said, start by installing new (known good) bulbs. 

 

If you have a bulb drawing too much current (filament short)  the bike's computer can shut that circuit down.  That bulb might test OK off motorcycle as the test circuit isn't computer controlled.

 

If new bulbs don't correct the problem then you will have to look for other causes (like shorted wire, burnt bulb connector terminals,  or burnt low (ground) connections. 

 

Is anything else (aftermarket or homemade)  tied into your low beam circuit, like an add on under-seat fuse box or an accessory  power relay?

[bulletbill]

17 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning   bulletbill

 

As John said, start by installing new (known good) bulbs. 

 

If you have a bulb drawing too much current (filament short)  the bike's computer can shut that circuit down.  That bulb might test OK off motorcycle as the test circuit isn't computer controlled.

 

If new bulbs don't correct the problem then you will have to look for other causes (like shorted wire, burnt bulb connector terminals,  or burnt low (ground) connections. 

 

Is anything else (aftermarket or homemade)  tied into your low beam circuit, like an add on under-seat fuse box or an accessory  power relay?

I will have to check where I have the trigger for my fuse block, don't remember off hand don't think it low beam but I will check. the bulb connector don't look real good?? Humm another odd thing is that the right bulb last much longer that the right one? '11 56K maybe it time to redo bulb connector ground, etc maybe any thoughts? 

[bulletbill]

Oh thanks for the reply.

[dirtrider]

7 hours ago, bulletbill said:

I will have to check where I have the trigger for my fuse block, don't remember off hand don't think it low beam but I will check. the bulb connector don't look real good?? Humm another odd thing is that the right bulb last much longer that the right one? '11 56K maybe it time to redo bulb connector ground, etc maybe any thoughts? 

Morning   bulletbill

 

You will eventually need to address the bulb connectors & the terminals inside the connectors if they now fit loosely or are burnt brown or black.  There are BMW supplied repair connectors with terminals & a short pigtail for splicing on  but they are super expensive for what you get. You can usually buy generic  H-7 repair connectors with pigtails at most good auto parts stores.   (just take an old bulb in with you to match up)

 

You also need to find out if ANYTHING "non OEM" is connected to the front headlight circuit, if found then try (temporarily) disconnecting that as a test. 

 

Even so you still could have a bad bulb as those H-7 bulbs have very tightly wound filaments so if the filament gets hot then you hit the right type of bump it  c-o-u-l-d cause a coupe of windings in the filament to short together. 

[bulletbill]

I got her apart and I have new connectors what is the best way to splice the new connectors? uninsulated butt connectors or should I Soldier.

 

I know the LED thing has been beat to death, but I was gifted a set of "HE Headlight Experts H7's", are these units OK??? 

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, bulletbill said:

I got her apart and I have new connectors what is the best way to splice the new connectors? uninsulated butt connectors or should I Soldier.

 

I know the LED thing has been beat to death, but I was gifted a set of "HE Headlight Experts H7's", are these units OK??? 

Morning   bulletbill

 

As for how to install the new connector/pigtails?-- Personally I hate butt connectors (especially unsealed ones) as those not only place an unwanted unnatural nonflexible area in the wires but they usually don't make full even wire contact. Some have & do use them  without issues but I (or the company that I work for) isn't one of those).

 

My personal preference is to use splice clips then solder the splice clips, then cover the splice joint with sealing type heat shrink. A little extra work to begin with but a lot less work & aggravation in the long run. 

 

If you don't have access to splice clips and/or a PROPER clip crimping tool then next best would probably be solder the wire connection with a good quality sealing heat shrink over the solder joint.  

 

I don't have any background with the "HE Headlight Experts H7's" so hopefully someone that has will respond on those. 

 

 

 

 

[bulletbill]

DirtRider, Thank you for all your replies. I have a GL friend that is a Radio Tect he is going to solder the connections for me. Thanks again.

[bulletbill]

Correction!!

I commented "I was gifted a set of "HE Headlight Experts H7's", are these units OK??? "

BUT, THAT WAS ON THE BOX, THE LED'S ARE ACTUAL "HIKARI", anybody have experience with these LED's???

[beemer chuck]

I have used Hikari led bulb on several cam heads with good results. They have a thin heat sink which puts the emitters near the center for a better pattern.