How to Remove Right Foot Peg Hanger - R1200RT

[1200Arty]

Hi Everyone

 

I'm trying to plan the task of lubing the splines (both ends) and waterproof both gaiters.

 

It seems that in order to get to the front gaiter it is necessary to remove the right Hanger.  However, the rear brake master cylinder is bolted to it from the rear.  So my questions are:-

 

1. as the brake line connecting to the master cylinder is metallic, is there sufficient room after removing the Hanger, to remove the 2 screws holding the master cylinder to it with a socket & wrench?

 

2.  If the swingarm is NOT removed, how easy is it to remove/replace the front gaiter? 

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Paul

[dirtrider]

5 minutes ago, 1200Arty said:

Hi Everyone

 

I'm trying to plan the task of lubing the splines (both ends) and waterproof both gaiters.

 

It seems that in order to get to the front gaiter it is necessary to remove the right Hanger.  However, the rear brake master cylinder is bolted to it from the rear.  So my questions are:-

 

1. as the brake line connecting to the master cylinder is metallic, is there sufficient room after removing the Hanger, to remove the 2 screws holding the master cylinder to it with a socket & wrench?

 

2.  If the swingarm is NOT removed, how easy is it to remove/replace the front gaiter? 

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Paul

Afternoon 1200Arty

 

What year 1200RT are you working with?

[1200Arty]

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

What year 1200RT are you working with?

2009

[dirtrider]

52 minutes ago, 1200Arty said:

2009

Afternoon  1200Arty

 

You probably can access those master cylinder bolts from the rear (I haven't ever tried) but do keep in mind the master cylinder bolts are factory lock-tited so require about 100°c (212°f) to properly allow those bolts to break free without tearing the alloy threads out.

I usually just unscrew the brake line (after draining rear system)  then remove the side plate with master cylinder attached. 

 

 

2.  If the swingarm is NOT removed, how easy is it to remove/replace the front gaiter? --- Very difficult as the drive shaft won't come out the rear of the swing arm so it is VERY DIFFICULT to reinstall the shaft on the trans output shaft. 

[1200Arty]

8 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

I usually just unscrew the brake line (after draining rear system)  then remove the side plate with master cylinder attached.

Thanks D.R. - I like that suggestion

 

8 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Very difficult as the drive shaft won't come out the rear of the swing arm so it is VERY DIFFICULT to reinstall the shaft on the trans output shaft. 

I should have mentioned that I do intend to remove the FD Housing so the shaft WILL come out.

[1200Arty]

On 4/8/2022 at 8:20 PM, dirtrider said:

I usually just unscrew the brake line (after draining rear system)  then remove the side plate with master cylinder attached.

Sorry for the delay, DR, in coming back to you again on this point.

 

Although I have bled brakes many times, I have never disconnected the metal brakes lines.  Are there any words of wisdom you can offer me............... e.g. soaking the brake line nuts in penetrating oil before attempting to undo (2009 model), avoiding leaks when reinstalling, torquing (18Nm?) etc or is it quite straight forward?

 

I am surprised that I cannot find any mention of other owners of this model stating how they removed the right hand side plate, on any forums or youtube.  I see that other models e.g. GS  and even the later RTs do not have the same side plates, so it is not an issue.

 

Paul

 

 

[dirtrider]

26 minutes ago, 1200Arty said:

Sorry for the delay, DR, in coming back to you again on this point.

 

Although I have bled brakes many times, I have never disconnected the metal brakes lines.  Are there any words of wisdom you can offer me............... e.g. soaking the brake line nuts in penetrating oil before attempting to undo (2009 model), avoiding leaks when reinstalling, torquing (18Nm?) etc or is it quite straight forward?

 

I am surprised that I cannot find any mention of other owners of this model stating how they removed the right hand side plate, on any forums or youtube.  I see that other models e.g. GS  and even the later RTs do not have the same side plates, so it is not an issue.

 

Paul

 

 

Afternoon Paul

 

Typically not a lot of reason to remove that side plate but at times it needs to come off. 

 

On loosening the brake line nut? I typically don't spray on any sort of lube as you don't want to contaminate the brake fluid with any sort of penetrating oil.  

 

I do strongly suggest that you use a line wrench (looks like a 6 point box end wrench but has a slot cut in it so it can pass over the brake line).  It is somewhat easy to round off or distort that line nut if you don't use a proper line wrench or line crow-foot.

 

Don't force the line nut if it won't come loose as it is then a very difficult repair. If it won't (reasonably) come loose then change directions & see if you can unbolt the master cylinder from the side plate. You might (probably will)  need some heat to loosen those bolts without stripping the alloy threads in the side plate.    

[1200Arty]

Many thanks, DR.  Much appreciated

 

Paul