2017 RT

[Dingo55]

Looking at (not in the flesh yet) a 2017 r1200rt

Coming from an 1999 R1100RT

Any problems that have surfaced since that year build 

What differences good/bad will be noticeable 

Cheers

Mark

[Bernie]

The transition from a R1100RT to a R1200RT-LC will be like moving from a lawn tractor to a SL500. A very refined machine in my personal opinion.

The biggest problems with the WetHead RT's are excessive tire consumptions and low 40's MPG, compared to a R11RT.

Test ride it only if you willing to write the check. 

[Dingo55]

Hi Bernie 

Thanks for that

I know what a lawn tractor is but no idea what a SL500 is

When you say excessive tyre wear what are we talking

I thought the 1100 was poor in that regard

Is that from extra weight?

Fuel wise I was getting 350 kms from full tank to low fuel light on 

Never worked that out in MPG

I'm probably a bit more concerned regards writing the cheque for servicing and any techno/electronic issues that may eventuate

400 kms from a dealer 

Happy to do the basics but are they much more technical than my old girl?

Any expensive (silly BMW (Break Mark's Wallet ) question) tools required to do servicing?

Cheers

Mark   

[Bernie]

In my case, my tire life from a my  R11RT and my Hexhead R1200RT was cut in half when I switched to the WetHead RT (5-6K miles).

The tank is only good for about 250 miles. But those are my experiences.

Some people get over 350 miles on a tank and somehow convince their tires to last uncounted and undocumented miles.

Routine service is a lot less on a WetHead, then on a OilHead. Change the oil every 6K miles and ride the bike.

The 12K services are a little more involved, but no special tools are needed, unless you need to adjust the valves.

To check the valve clearance no special tools are required. Change spark plugs and air filter and rear drive oil every 12K.

Other wise just brake pads and fluid changes. No special tools needed for that either.

You will need either a GS911WiFi to reset your service reminder or you can try the other option. 

But that is it. No throttle bodies to synch, no gear box oil to change. No cables for clutch or throttle. 

Just go ride.

[TEWKS]

 

2 hours ago, Dingo55 said:

What differences good/bad will be noticeable

Yeah, I’m guessing this is just about right, in the difference department. 
 

[Scott9999]

4 hours ago, TEWKS said:

 

Yeah, I’m guessing this is just about right, in the difference department. 
 

Naw, that's nowhere near accurate, TEWKS. 

 

I've wanted a P51 Mustang since I was about 10 years old, along with the skills to fly that iconic aircraft.  As a US Taxpayer and former military office, I thought terminating the F22 in favor of building a few hundred F35's, which probably couldn't shoot their way out of a dogfight WITH a P51, let alone an F22 with an equal investment in avionics, was nationally suicidal.   I NEVER wanted the F35.  😏

 

But, I'm guessing that's why no one made me a Flag officer or General.  What do I know anyhow.  🤣🤣

 

---------------------

But, yeah, the hexhead was a far superior bike to the oilheads, just a whole jump in engine and transmission technology, and in handling (lower CG).  Improvements and differences between the hexhead, camhead, wethead, and shiftheads, on the other hand, were far more incremental, IMHO.  There were things on early hexhead models like "wizzy brakes" which some hated, but overall, any of those R1200/R1250 series bikes are night and day improvements over an oilhead.  (Every model has it's quirks.)

 

To the OP  (@Dingo55), I'd recommend sticking to a 2017-2018 due to the mid-series Wethead transmission improvements, as well as avoiding some of the early Wethead cam lobe wear problems, which were supposedly resolved in later Wethead models.  A little research will yield plenty of info about all of that, on this site and via general internet search.

[Dingo55]

Thank you all for your replies

Much appreciated

Without the vin is it possible to ascertain the exact manufacture date?

Is it OK to ask owner to provide the vin?

The GS911 WiFi or other option?

What special tools are required to do valve adjustment?

Is that something a backyarder can do?

No gearbox oil to change ?

Is that a sealed for life unit?

Cheers

Mark 

[TEWKS]

Boxflyer can help walk you through the service work.

 

Transmission oil is now the engine oil. 

[Boxflyer]

Hi Dingo55/Mark,

I looked at your profile and don't see where you live.

If it's not too far, I may be able to help you with a quick look at the bike you are talking about.

Also if it's not too far, I'll help you with doing a complete service after you buy a WetHead.

 

Now that I think about it...if you want a completely serviced, well farkled 2017RT, I sell you mine, or my completely serviced 2012 K1600GT!

It's spring and I feel like a change.

 

I also think that the 2017-2018 represent the best of the WetHead models.

[Scott9999]

7 hours ago, Boxflyer said:

Hi Dingo55/Mark,

I looked at your profile and don't see where you live.

If it's not too far, I may be able to help you with a quick look at the bike you are talking about.

Also if it's not too far, I'll help you with doing a complete service after you buy a WetHead.

 

Now that I think about it...if you want a completely serviced, well farkled 2017RT, I sell you mine, or my completely serviced 2012 K1600GT!

It's spring and I feel like a change.

 

I also think that the 2017-2018 represent the best of the WetHead models.

Dang.  I'd buy Brad's 2017 just for the farkles alone!  The fact that it's likely been serviced BETTER than the dealer techs can/would do, due to Brad's engineering attention to detail, is just a bonus.

 

But, I HAD to go get that 2018 last fall.  Pity poor me.  🤣

 

(Edit:  Then again, knowing Brad's reputation, his 2017 probably has 190,000 miles on it already.  😬)

[Geekmaster]

13 hours ago, Dingo55 said:

 

 

 

Is it OK to ask owner to provide the vin?

The GS911 WiFi or other option?

 

Hey Dingo 55 - yes, it's fine to ask the owner to provide the VIN.  Some will, and some won't.  If they think you're serious about the bike and trust you, then they'll usually provide it.  Doesn't hurt to ask, anyway.

 

Regarding the GS911 or "other" option, look at the MotoScan app, available for Android phones.  Even though I use iPhone, it was cheaper for me to buy the following, and it does everything that the GS911 does (for my purposes, anyway).

• Inexpensive Android phone - $39
• MotoScan App with Ultimate registration - $49
• OBDLink LX OBD2 scanner - $89
• Cable - $30

So, the total cost for a GS-911 equivalent was just over $200.  The price for the OBD scanner is now $89, so it's gone up about $20.

[Dingo55]

Hi all

Seriously appreciate all the replies

Always blown away by people's generosity on this site 

Had a lot of help from the Oilhead section over the journey

So a few more questions if I may

What does the GS-911 actually do?

I guess " if it's not too far" is all relative

The bottom end of Western Australia too far?

How switched on ( I'm not) to the computer side of things is it necessary to be?

Trying to ascertain how independent I can be from the BMW dealership(400kms away)

Thanks again

Cheers 

Mark    
 

[Geekmaster]

Hi Mark, (Dingo55)

I guess we should have known with a name like "Dingo55" that you're from "down under"!  Rather than try to explain GS-911 and the competing MotoScan app, let me give you a couple links for "light reading."

 

GS-911 functionality: https://www.hexcode.co.za/products/gs-911

MotoScan app functionality: https://www.motoscan.de/unterstuetzte-bmw-motorraeder/ (make sure to select your language from the upper right, or it will be in German).

 

So, in my opinion, if you're mechanically inclined, I think you can be quite independent from the dealer.  If you're not "switched on" then I think the Motoscan app may be a bit easier.  But even then, you'll mostly need it for resetting the service reminder, and maybe programming new TPMS sensors.  However, to be independent, you'll want to be able to scan trouble codes, etc.

 

Now, combine that with the excellent service videos that Boxflyer has produced (see the link in his signature), and you should be set for 95% of everything you need.  Then another 3-4% will be covered by this forum, and then maybe 1% will require a 400kms visit to your dealer.  Not too bad.  But it really depends on your wrenching ability for the 10/20km services.  And hopefully you have access to a trailer in the event that you need to get your bike to the dealer but can't ride it.

 

Of course, I'm a relatively new RT owner, so I'll let others correct my statements above if they're two optimistic (or pessimistic).

[Scott9999]

A little better link for motoscan:  https://www.motoscan.de/

It's an android based phone app.  Together, with a OBDII device (On Board Diagnostics), you can perform the same scans and checks that the service department does, and you can clear your bike's alert log, and reset your "service reminder" alert after you change your oil.

 

What it DOES NOT do, that an experienced service tech usually CAN DO, is interpret the error messages.  Sometimes they are crystal clear, and other times, clear as mud.  This forum (and others, like bmwlt.com and bmwmoa.com) have both experiences users like Brad (a.k.a. "Boxflyer"), as well as occasionally, actual, experienced (or retired) techs.  I've found just about any question that comes up, someone knows and has experience, and frequently, "just fixed the same problem last week". 

 

OBDII devices are a standard.  See From dongles to diagnostics, here’s all you need to know about OBD/OBD II, for a bit of explanation.  All modern vehicles have an OBDII compatible plug on them, to attach these devices.  Not all are of equal value.  If you scan the forum archives, members have posted their experience and recommendations.  The $20 Amazon specials may or may not give you what you need.   This is one that some have recommended, but I'm gonna try the cheapo I bought for my Ford before I put down money for it.

OBDLINK® LX

 

You don't need to buy the very-expensive GS911.  Nice to have, but (based on what others have reported), you can pretty much get all the info you need with motoscan and a decent quality OBDII device off Amazon.

 

I'm over 250 miles from the nearest BMW dealer, and while that's a consideration, it didn't stop me for a second from buying another BMW RT.    I'm not a natural "wrench", but with a BMW service manual, and some help from this forum, I feel I can probably so most anything needed (which doesn't mean that I will; been there, done that, and would rather ride than wrench).   You can get a copy of the BMW manual for about $30 on eBay, or an OEM official copy for about $120.  Brad's maintenance videos will probably satisfy 90% of what you'll every have to do on your BMW, i.e. routine service.  

 

Oh, one last thing:  The area that WILL probably frustrate you, is securing the BMW specialty tools to do the work.  Brad addresses some alternatives for that, on his video.  However, you're going to spend some serious cash to get what you need, even if you have a well stocked workbench in your garage.   It kind of goes with the territory (e.g. being a BMW owner).

[old_farmer]

I went from a 1999 to a 2017. I found the newer one to handle more easily at low speeds. The CG may be a tad lower. Tire mileage for me on the new one is similar to the old one. The new one also gets better gas mileage for me (I'm a fairly gentle rider; maybe results would be different if I twisted its tail more).

 

I survived my first do-it-yourself 12K service, with the help of Brad's videos and a GS-911.

[Paul De]

The previous comments cover the differences well.  I also went from a ‘99RT to a ‘15RT, and the ‘17RT will shift easier than my ‘15. That said coming off ‘99RT any vintage Wethead will shift like a dream.   The Wethead RT being a clean sheet model design     makes it a completely different motorcycle from the evolutionary approach taken from the Oilhead through Camhead. The Wethead has its own distinct personality which is more performance oriented VS the Oilhead.   I have shared this comparison previously with others coming from an Oilhead RT to a Wethead RT.  My ‘99RT is like a gentleman in a tuxedo and my ‘15RT is like a rogue in a tuxedo.  Either are enjoyable to hang out with, but you’ll have way more fun on boy’s night out with the rogue😎

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 8, 2022 by Paul De
Spelling goof meant to use rogue...not rouge

[Rob Nowell]

3 hours ago, Paul De said:

The previous comments cover the differences well.  I also went from a ‘99RT to a ‘15RT, and the ‘17RT will shift easier than my ‘15. That said coming off ‘99RT any vintage Wethead will shift like a dream.   The Wethead RT being a clean sheet model design     makes it a completely different motorcycle from the evolutionary approach taken from the Oilhead through Camhead. The Wethead has its own distinct personality which is more performance oriented VS the Oilhead.   I have shared this comparison previously with others coming from an Oilhead RT to a Wethead RT.  My ‘99RT is like a gentleman in a tuxedo and my ‘15RT is like a rouge in a tuxedo.  Either are enjoyable to hang out with, but you’ll have way more fun on boy’s night out with the rouge😎

 

 

 

 

 

hmmm....rouge or rogue?  either way, I am still in love with my '16, which replaced my '00

[Paul De]

Haha, typing too fast on my mobile without my readers again! Rogue, as in an appealingly mischievous way!