Shadetree engineers, woodworkers and handydudes

[Rougarou]

I'm working on my wife's greenhouse.  It's gonna be about 7x12.  I've got glass panels, of which the frames are 49"x79".  The weight is 'bout 80lbs if the glass calculator is correct.  For two or three of the panels, I want them to tilt vertically (bottom out, top in) so that we can keep the summer heat from baking anything inside.  I can't seem to find hardware that would work on this,.......ideas, suggestions.

 

I don't have a design drawn out, it's "in ma hed", kinda thing, so, be fluid with this.

 

Also, it'll be a "lean to" designed thing.  I believe the high side wall is 105" hight (thereabouts)

[Hosstage]

A cup and pin like a tailgate?

Do they even use those anymore with tailgates? Haven't looked a modern truck in a while.

[Rougarou]

This glass

 

Into these franes

 

The frames will have 1x1 cleats to hold the glass in place. I do have a frame built with cleats and the glass fits really well. 

[Rougarou]

This is the area that Im building it on

 

The side to your right will have stationary windows.  The far side and back side is what I'm wanting to put the tilt windows in. 

 

I'm thinking a simple 3/4-1" bolt as the pivot with washers.  Short chains to limit the tilt and something to "hold" the tilt in the wind/breeze.  No need to go all crazy fancy with it, but searching for ideas.

 

The roof will be glass with openings as well, but those should be fairly simple as they are "antique" windows.

[Hosstage]

What is the plan to remove the window if needed? That's why I was thinking a cup and pin, the window could be lifted out. With your bolt idea, is it pivoting on the wood, wear and tear, or some kind of bushing to prevent that?

 

Something like this:

Pivoting hinge

[Rougarou]

20 minutes ago, Hosstage said:

What is the plan to remove the window if needed? That's why I was thinking a cup and pin, the window could be lifted out. With your bolt idea, is it pivoting on the wood, wear and tear, or some kind of bushing to prevent that?

 

Something like this:

Pivoting hinge

 

 

The glass will be held in those white frames with screwed in cleats.  "If" the glass needs to be removed, I would just need to unscrew the cleats and slide the glass out. 

 

I like the tailgate idea.

 

If I went the bolt route, I'd sleeve the hole so the rotation wouldn't be on the wood.

 

Dunno yet.  I may get back out there next weekend or tomorrow if the stupid white stuff doesn't fall too much.

[terryofperry]

Are you installing a Swamp Cooler, fans, sprinkler system and heat?

Terry

[Rougarou]

9 minutes ago, terryofperry said:

Are you installing a Swamp Cooler, fans, sprinkler system and heat?

Terry

 

Fans likely, swamp cooler-nope, water hose is close enough, no need for a sprinkler, may throw in a heat source depending on the coldness and what she's got in there.

 

The main use will be housing her plants over the colder months and for her to start seeds early.  During summa months, it'll be fairly empty.

[terryofperry]

Thanks.

Terry

[Rougarou]

Anybody have this nifty little toy

 

 

https://www.reekon.tools/

 

When I work, I leave a steel tape at the work location and one on the saw location.  I generally don't mark my wood as I lay it out on the miter and line it up with the steel tape and blade, then chop it.  If this works as designed, I'ma thinking it may be worth a small investment.

[LBump]

On 2/12/2022 at 7:28 AM, Rougarou said:

I'm working on my wife's greenhouse.  It's gonna be about 7x12.  I've got glass panels, of which the frames are 49"x79".  The weight is 'bout 80lbs if the glass calculator is correct.  For two or three of the panels, I want them to tilt vertically (bottom out, top in) so that we can keep the summer heat from baking anything inside.  I can't seem to find hardware that would work on this,.......ideas, suggestions.

 

I don't have a design drawn out, it's "in ma hed", kinda thing, so, be fluid with this.

 

Also, it'll be a "lean to" designed thing.  I believe the high side wall is 105" hight (thereabouts)

 

Reads like ya might want hardware for a Casement or Hopper Window.  It would need to be rated for the weight. Are you making the sash for the windows?

You might check out this LINK

[Hosstage]

7 hours ago, Rougarou said:

Anybody have this nifty little toy

 

 

https://www.reekon.tools/

 

When I work, I leave a steel tape at the work location and one on the saw location.  I generally don't mark my wood as I lay it out on the miter and line it up with the steel tape and blade, then chop it.  If this works as designed, I'ma thinking it may be worth a small investment.

Nice, but I would have to be cutting a LOT of wood on a mitre to justify it. No other use for it but the mitre saw. Not saying it wouldn't work well, just saying I'm a cheap sob.

[Hosstage]

1 hour ago, LBump said:

 

Reads like ya might want hardware for a Casement or Hopper Window.  It would need to be rated for the weight. Are you making the sash for the windows?

You might check out this LINK

Not really applicable to Roug's design, he's looking for a simple pin on both sides in the middle so the windows can be tilted on the balance point with the bottom out, top in, heavy windows at 80 pounds plus. I'm assuming a simple restraint like a chain to prevent over rotation, and a simple stop and bolt lock of some sort to keep closed.

Edit: I'm thinking the pins need to be favored toward the bottom to keep the top heavier when open to keep from closing or blowing shut.

[Rougarou]

4 hours ago, LBump said:

 

Reads like ya might want hardware for a Casement or Hopper Window.  It would need to be rated for the weight. Are you making the sash for the windows?

You might check out this LINK

 

Zactly what Id be looking for if I was going fancy.  I like the idea of turning a handle and the window tilting open.  Looks easy enough to install too.  I'll keep this in mind if she likes what we finish and wants it "completeder".  Thanks much.

 

3 hours ago, Hosstage said:

Nice, but I would have to be cutting a LOT of wood on a mitre to justify it. No other use for it but the mitre saw. Not saying it wouldn't work well, just saying I'm a cheap sob.

 

But, it's a nice looking toy!!!

 

3 hours ago, Hosstage said:

Not really applicable to Roug's design, he's looking for a simple pin on both sides in the middle so the windows can be tilted on the balance point with the bottom out, top in, heavy windows at 80 pounds plus. I'm assuming a simple restraint like a chain to prevent over rotation, and a simple stop and bolt lock of some sort to keep closed.

Edit: I'm thinking the pins need to be favored toward the bottom to keep the top heavier when open to keep from closing or blowing shut.

 

I think this is the route I'ma be going for now.  Stoopid simple pinhinge thingy (bolt).

[Hosstage]

2 hours ago, Rougarou said:

7 hours ago, LBump said:

Reads like ya might want hardware for a Casement or Hopper Window.  It would need to be rated for the weight. Are you making the sash for the windows?

You might check out this LINK

 

Zactly what Id be looking for if I was going fancy.  I like the idea of turning a handle and the window tilting open.  Looks easy enough to install too.  I'll keep this in mind if she likes what we finish and wants it "completeder".  Thanks much.

 

I just realized that the crank out would work on the bottom as it isn't pushing or pulling any real weight, I had a different idea going in my brain for a while.

 

Quote:

"But, it's a nice looking toy!!!"

 

it is that!

[Rougarou]

Some progress 

 

The old door we got at a dead guy auction a couple of years ago. Two large panes are in on the high side. 
 

 

[Lowndes]

How about a slight variation on the cup and pin??  Just a pair of plain, old fashoned door bolts mounted on the inside, one on each side of the window midway between the top and bottom.  Mount the little "reciever" loop on the wood frame holding the glass and the sliding bolt on the wall.  A variety of sizes are available, weather (rust) resistant versions, and very easy to remove the windows when necessary.  

 

These windows look like they might weigh a bit.  Might consider longer rust resistant (SS??) screws than what comes with the set.  The weight of the window will be offset from the CL of the bolts so the window will "want" to stay closed and sealed when not held open.  

 

Or

 

A thermostatic switch to a vent fan would cool down the hot house when you aren't home to open the windows.  Lowes has a bathroom vent fan for $17.  Mount it to exhaust from the greenhouse and draw makeup air from inside the house to really protect the petunias (and keep the spouse from simmering in the summer sun).

 

 

 

[Rougarou]

3 hours ago, Lowndes said:

How about a slight variation on the cup and pin??  Just a pair of plain, old fashoned door bolts mounted on the inside, one on each side of the window midway between the top and bottom.  Mount the little "reciever" loop on the wood frame holding the glass and the sliding bolt on the wall.  A variety of sizes are available, weather (rust) resistant versions, and very easy to remove the windows when necessary.  

 

These windows look like they might weigh a bit.  Might consider longer rust resistant (SS??) screws than what comes with the set.  The weight of the window will be offset from the CL of the bolts so the window will "want" to stay closed and sealed when not held open.  

 

Or

 

A thermostatic switch to a vent fan would cool down the hot house when you aren't home to open the windows.  Lowes has a bathroom vent fan for $17.  Mount it to exhaust from the greenhouse and draw makeup air from inside the house to really protect the petunias (and keep the spouse from simmering in the summer sun).

 

 

 

 

Thanks much,

 

I'ma try the simple bolt through as a pivot hinge.

 

Also, she got a 10" fan with shutters and thermostat from amazon......I think $80ish.

 

We kinda scrapped going with glass as a roof.  Using J-channels, I'd have to put the glass in from the high side, at 80-90lbs a sheet, it'd be a bit awkward on the ladder.  So, we picked up some polycarbonate for the roof.

[Rougarou]

Change two  to change three. Going with the glass and yes its heavy

[Rougarou]

Simple bolt hinge.

 

 

[LBump]

Looks like it will work fine.

Are you concerned about the pivot bolt becoming loose or loosing tension? Do you need access to the bolt? 

You might want to consider a casement stay or two to lock the desired position. Many varieties and finishes out there.

 

  

[Hosstage]

I was also wondering about access to the pivot bolt if needed, hence my cup and pin suggestion earlier. 

[Rougarou]

 

[Rougarou]

Bolts will be accessible 

 

the right bolt, even if the nut loosens, it ain’t coming out, it’s between two studs. Left is easily gotten to if need be. 
 

Ill look at those casement stays, but the friction may be enough to hold. Also the bush behind wont let it do a full 360, i can only spin it half

[Hosstage]

I wouldn't trust them to hold with just friction, eventually that may loosen up, but even if it doesn't, a strong wind could really cause some havoc. I'd want them locked into position.

[Hosstage]

 

Looks nice!

Is there a possibility of clearance issues with the two flip windows next to each other in the corner?

Also, flipping in on the bottom, I see myself launching plants across the floor...

[Rougarou]

47 minutes ago, Hosstage said:

I wouldn't trust them to hold with just friction, eventually that may loosen up, but even if it doesn't, a strong wind could really cause some havoc. I'd want them locked into position.

 

I'ma have some sort of limitation, likely small chains as I have those available or look to the casement brackets, that way the window can be locked down in a specific position.

 

40 minutes ago, Hosstage said:

 

Looks nice!

Is there a possibility of clearance issues with the two flip windows next to each other in the corner?

Also, flipping in on the bottom, I see myself launching plants across the floor...

 

We decided to only have the one window to have mobility.  And it will be flipping bottom out, vice how I showed as bottom in.  One handed, it was easier to pull it than to get it pushed open.  Mah carpentry skilz ain't an exact science and the window does have a bit more friction on the bottom than I'd like to have.  When I positioned for drilling the hinge holes, I put a 1/4" slab across the bottom as a spacer, shoulda went a bit bigger as I didn't anticipate the "settling" once the weight was on the bolts.  I'll likely cut the bottom 2x4 (under the window) out, to allow a more freely moving window.  I'ma also gonna put a couple of barrel latches to hold it in place "fo sho" when closed.

[Hosstage]

Sounds good. I was thinking of some kind of lock to hold it open as well, slamming shut unexpectedly might not be ideal.

[Rougarou]

That bush won't let it slam in either direction.  If the bottom flies outward, it'll hit the bush, if the top flies outward, it'll hit the bush, albeit near horizontally, but will be a soft landing.  Still gonna put limit device on it anyway and a way to lock shut.

[Rougarou]

Not much done. Yesterday was stoopid windy and Im not a fan of working in the wind. 
 

 

[Rougarou]

Todays progress. Only one more wall to wrap with tin then itll be running a little power and silicon/caulking all the seams as well as some finishing trim stuff

[Rougarou]

Today