Cruise control microswitch on clutch

[Rainor]

I have a 2007 R1200RT and just this past riding season started having problems with the cruise control disengaging on its own while riding.  I found that by applying very little downward pressure on the clutch lever and held it there the cruise stayed on.

So I purchased a used handlebar clutch assembly just to get the microswitch. What I found was that my microswitch is a "dual microphone" switch and the one I bought is just a single microswitch (I believe the dual microswitch is for the police model).

My question is can I install the single switch in replacement of the dual switch as my bike doesn't have a microphone? Refer to attached pics.

Thanks for any help/advice.

 

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, Rainor said:

I have a 2007 R1200RT and just this past riding season started having problems with the cruise control disengaging on its own while riding.  I found that by applying very little downward pressure on the clutch lever and held it there the cruise stayed on.

So I purchased a used handlebar clutch assembly just to get the microswitch. What I found was that my microswitch is a "dual microphone" switch and the one I bought is just a single microswitchand the one I bought is just a single microswitch (I believe the dual microswitch is for the police model).

My question is can I install the single switch in replacement of the dual switch as my bike doesn't have a microphone? Refer to attached pics.

Thanks for any help/advice.

 

 

 

Morning  Rainor

 

You have run across one of the problems with buying a German motorcycle as the parts manual & service manuals are translated from German to whatever countries language the motorcycle is sold in. As far as I have been able to tell is that "dual microphone" switch referred to in the parts manual is a misprint & meant to say  "dual micro" switch. (has nothing to do with a microphone)-- Why would any motorcycle need a switch on the clutch lever to use a microphone???? 

 

In any case, if your motorcycle has cruise control it needs a dual-reed micro switch as one reed-switch is for the starting inhibit & the other reed-switch is for the cruise control cut-off.

 

If your current switch is working OK with clutch lever held forward a little then usually a little outward bend in the cruise control switch reed (the one that contacts the clutch lever) is all it takes to make it function again. (hold the reed at about the point it contacts the little switch button then bend the tip of the reed out a little)

 

 

[Rainor]

As always Dirtrider thanks for your reply and knowledge! I'll bend the reeds a little to see if that helps. Unfortunately it's winter in Canada so I won't be able to test it out until spring.

So do you know why the microswitch in the used handlebar assembly only has one reed?

Thx again.

Rainor 

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Rainor said:

As always Dirtrider thanks for your reply and knowledge! I'll bend the reeds a little to see if that helps. Unfortunately it's winter in Canada so I won't be able to test it out until spring.

So do you know why the microswitch in the used handlebar assembly only has one reed?

Thx again.

Rainor 

Afternoon Rainor

 

You just might be able to test it using the cruise control test procedure below__ 

 

First)-  With the ignition switch OFF, switch on the cruise control.

Then)- Press and hold the SET button to the SET position, then turn on the ignition switch (SET LIGHT should come on) 

Next)- Release the SET button (LIGHT THEN GOES OFF), move to RESET position (Resume) position (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON) 

Next)- Release the button (LIGHT SHOULD BE OFF) 

Next)- Switch OFF the cruise control switch (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON)

Next)- Switch the cruise control switch back to on (LIGHT SHOULD BE OFF) 

Next)- Close throttle (all the way past normal). (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON), release throttle. (LIGHT GOES OFF)

 

Next)- Pull clutch lever (LIGHT ON), release clutch lever (LIGHT OFF) 

 

Next)- Pull front brake lever (LIGHT ON), release lever (LIGHT OFF) 

Next)- Push foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON), hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF), release foot brake pedal (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON)

Next)- Rotate rear wheel (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF/ON) 

Last)-  Switch off ignition. 

 

 

[wbw6cos]

That's some good stuff right there.   

[Rainor]

Hey Dirtrider,

I was looking at the microswitch reeds and there is a bend right at the spot where they meet the microswitch button. It looks too tricky for me to straighten them out so I purchased a new microswitch (for a mere $150 CAD!!).

Do you know how deep into the bowels of the RT I have to go to connect the switch? I've removed the side panel Tupperware before but haven't gone any deeper. 

Thx in advance.

Rainor 

[dirtrider]

39 minutes ago, Rainor said:

Hey Dirtrider,

I was looking at the microswitch reeds and there is a bend right at the spot where they meet the microswitch button. It looks too tricky for me to straighten them out so I purchased a new microswitch (for a mere $150 CAD!!).

Do you know how deep into the bowels of the RT I have to go to connect the switch? I've removed the side panel Tupperware before but haven't gone any deeper. 

Thx in advance.

Rainor 

 

Afternoon  Rainor

 

You can somewhat tell by how long the switch pigtail is then matching that up to the original switch & wiring. 

 

To do it right you need to remove the tupperware & remove the fuel tank.

 

I have done a couple over the years without removing the tank by cutting/splicing the wires using splice clips, then soldering the connections,   then covering the splices with heat shrink tubing, then covering the entire joint area with larger diameter (thin walled)  heat shrink. (not easy to make a clean splice repair unless you are used to making water tight, very tidy,  wire harness repairs.   

[Rainor]

I like the splicing idea!!

I presume the wires are color coded and easy to match up?

[dirtrider]

15 minutes ago, Rainor said:

I like the splicing idea!!

I presume the wires are color coded and easy to match up?

Evening  Rainor

 

The colors should be the same between switches but I emphasize "should be". In todays Covid era there is just no way to be sure if that switch with pigtail is sourced from the same vendor that originally supplied it. 

 

Obviously the connector pin-out needs to be the same or it wouldn't work so just verify the wire colors at the connector cavities on the new vs old. 

 

In any case, a few minutes with an ohmmeter you should be able to verify. 

[Skywagon]

Splicing is a good option. Before you just cut the wires you can use a clip like this to test If it works. Will only leave a small mark in your wire if the issue isn’t fixed. 

[Rainor]

Ok so I spliced in the new switch and it went surprisingly well (I tend to dig myself into deep holes when I try something like this 😳!!). I ran through the test procedure provided by my favorite member (dirtrider!!) and everything went as expected.  I'm very hopeful this fixed my cruise control  but it's still sub freezing weather here so I won't be able to take it for a ride for a week or so.

I'll try to remember to report back but if I don't thx for all the help!!

Rainor 

[Rainor]

We had some nice weather today (while the snow is still melting!!) so I took the RT out for about a half hour ride.

Hallafrickenluya my cruise control is fixed!!

Again great thanks!!!

Rainor