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Boxflyer 12 k service Shift Cam Tech Day (FART '21)


wbw6cos

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On Thursday at FART in Sparta, NC, my 2019 1250 RT was used for 12 k service Tech Day on Shift Cam.  A big shout out thanks to all the folks involved in puting together a great gathering!   A special thanks goes to Boxflyer for performing and demonstrating the 12 k service.  The bike had 24 k miles on it.  Oil, filters, plugs were changed along with final drive oil.  The rear splines were stuck with some rust, but the boot was not holy.  The original lube used for sealing the F/D boot in the paralever was dried out enough to allow moisture.   Go figure.   Everything was cleaned and lubed properly.    I ride rain or shine, but no water crossings.  However, the RT was a GS-wannabe when it was ridden on a short  pavement-ends gravel stretch on route 7 NE loop Rocky Mount.  Fun!

 

Rear brakes were inspected, cleaned, and lubed.  Front brakes are subject to recall and not touched for this service.  They are not leaking, so I am in no hurry to get them swapped over to Brembos.  The dealer in Atlanta is a little swamped with work these days, so whenever I get around to it, and they get the parts in, I will set up the appointment to get 'er done.

 

Service minder was reset with GS-911 scan tool.

 

A few people showed up in time later in the day to catch the valve train check in progress.   The cams were slightly out of alignment and corrected.  The right side valve clearances (Clarence) were all within range.  On the left side, only the front intake was tight at 0.11 (tolerance range for intake is 0.10 to 0.17) and that required 2 new shims (inside joke) to be installed so it can be brought within the mid-range target.  The only noticeable difference in performance I can tell is the fuel tank range went from 271 miles to 308.  Some say that the clean mountain air helps, but we shall see.  After a few tanks in the filthy Atlanta air, I will know for sure.   

 

Just in case you are on the fence or a little apprehensive about diving into that Shift Cam motor, don't be.  It seems like a lot to absorb at first, but after spending some time assisting Boxflyer, it becomes a lot clearer and can become routine.  I will probably spend a few months gathering some more tools to better my skills at wrenching on the motor; Brad also has a plethora of novel ideas for tools/tips to be used that you never thought about.  Most can be obtained on a shoe string budget, literally.

 

You can check him out on his youtube channel.   ----> LINKY

 

EDIT:  I would like to point out that at least 3 or 4 screws for the tupperware (body panels) were incorrect - wrong length or without should, or both.  Brad sorted out what he could from his collection, but I will need to order some M5 x 17.5 with shoulder screws to correct a couple of areas.   Also, there were also a few grommets that were worn due to improper assembly.   All the more reason to keep up with the screws during disassembly utilizing the ever-coveted Boxflyer Boards®

 

The bike was last worked on for prior services at an authorized BMW service center; I have not not taken anything apart since before the last 2 services.  Good time to find any small details that may have been missed. 

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Nice write up William! :thumbsup: 
Now, without pictures…:dontknow: No, just kidding I saw some in the FART thread! :classic_biggrin: Brad is a great mechanic and a great teacher. I think we’re lucky to have him interested in our world of motorcycles and travel.

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Looking at that Shift Cam head makes me nervous. I am by no means mechanically inclined, but after I purchased my 07 RT (Hexhead) I was intrigued by the motor.  After attending a couple of Tech days, I learned how to adjust the valves and perform the work necessary to accomplish the 6,000 and 12,000 mile servicing.  Very rarely did I bring it to the dealer, and 141,000 mile later, she is still running nicely.  The Hexhead seems so easy to work on compared to the Shift Cam.  Having purchased a 2020 RT, I look at this engine, and to me, it is speaking a whole new language that I do not understand.  Nice write-up William, and what a great opportunity that I missed not being able to attend the Sparta gathering and observe the valve adjustments on this engine.  Pat is correct.  Having Brad interested in our group  is our good fortune.  

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After watching Brad do his magic on your bike I would travel a good distance just to be a "fly on the handle bar" watching and taking notes an entire week.

 

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I lack a few tools that would make it less complicated, but it is still pretty fresh in my mind.   A few times watching a video, or 6, will set me straight, though.  I am fairly certain that I will have forgotten a lot of info when I do the next 12k service.   Oh, my.

 

I would like to add that I do have the ilium works engine bars and it was discovered that the left one need to be removed in order check the cam alignment.   As you look down from above the tank, you will find the left cylinder head is a slightly forward than the left.   The photo above shows the r/s cams being checked with the engine guard in place; we started on that side.  The way the guards were installed, some of the hardware on the right side had to be loosened for left side removal, too.     I also have the OEM LED auxiliary lights mounted on the bars so they had to be taken off the mounts; there is not enough slack in the wire harness to the lights to allow for moving the bars out of the way.  Allen head wrench and a small wrench was all that was needed for quick removal.

 

Maybe Ron can host a tech day for his service.   :5146:

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The routine service is simpler on the WetHeads then on the HexHeads.

You only have to check the valve clearances every 12K miles. If they are within the spec range, no changes need to be done.

That should be the same on the ShiftCam motors.

Past history tells us that the valves and the cam timing do not need adjusting every 12K miles.

Just go for a ride and enjoy these great bikes.

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12 hours ago, Bernie said:

The routine service is simpler on the WetHeads then on the HexHeads.

You only have to check the valve clearances every 12K miles. If they are within the spec range, no changes need to be done.

That should be the same on the ShiftCam motors.

Past history tells us that the valves and the cam timing do not need adjusting every 12K miles.

Just go for a ride and enjoy these great bikes.

And I am going to do that exact thing....."ride and enjoy these great bikes" next week.  Because I could not join the adventure in Sparta last week, I am heading to Waynesville next Wednesday through Sunday with some folks to make up for it.  

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Shelterwoods

Thank you for the report.

 

I have a R1250RS with what I assume is the same drivetrain. I am concerned that the splines of the drive system were already rusted and stuck with so few miles. I hope that is not a common problem, though over the last 20 years I have heard that the shaft drive systems from BMW are a weak link. I have had mine for a year and a couple months, and with 14,000 miles on it, I'll be taking it in for the 12,000 mile service; would have been sooner save that I took a 3,700 mile ride. I'll ask the shop to check the drive when I take it in.

 

Del

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Boxflyer used Lucas Oil White Lithium Grease NLGI #2 on my F/D boot seal.  The grease that BMW uses dries out and allows moisture to get by.  Checking the splines is not part of the 12 k service and (obviously) mine was not touched since new; there was no maintenance requested on my part that would have required dropping the final drive.  I plan on keeping an eye on the splines every 12 k, as quite a few forum members aleady do.  There was a thread on that issue, which was discussed HERE.  Some of the search returns mentioned that nobody could find any mechanical issues that were specifically related to the rusty splines.  I think it is just piece of mind.  Although, one would like to drop the final drive without pulling out the drive shaft.  Just sayin'

 

Ask the service manager to see if they would get some photos of the condition of your splines.  That would be interesting to see.

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Boxflyer lubed the FD splines on my 2015 GSA, just before FART. My six-year-old bike had 50,000 miles on it, and the splines had been lubed only once before, almost exactly three years ago (at 30,216 miles). The rear rubber boot had no holes, but I had bought a new one regardless, and he installed that. There was no visible moisture, when de dropped the drive.  Here are a few pics. 

EABBDD1D-C6A7-4B42-A822-0C3AE7A79555.jpeg

E6440CB4-8FA5-4D34-BA63-9BC56D1EA102.jpeg

354B0332-8A01-4386-83F5-889254153577.jpeg

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Hey Mark, do you do any water crossings on that GS?  Those look pretty good for for that amount of time between lubing the splines.   The grease seal on the boot must have been pretty good from that prior lube job.  Thanks for showing the pics.

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20 minutes ago, wbw6cos said:

Hey Mark, do you do any water crossings on that GS?  Those look pretty good for for that amount of time between lubing the splines.   The grease seal on the boot must have been pretty good from that prior lube job.  Thanks for showing the pics.

Hah, no water crossings for me.  Strictly a road bike, unless following certain people.

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