Hit a snag on last step to remove timing cover. Please help.

[ELP_JC]

Hi folks. Everything was going as expected, including the destruction of the 3 rotor bolts, but I wasn't expecting to find a CONNECTOR on the oil pressure sensor, rather than a spade terminal, like on the fan switch. Both of these wires need to pass thru the timing cover in order to remove it, and the connector is too big.

Bike is fully dismantled now, and just need to solve this problem to be able to remove the timing cover. Service manual doesn't even mention the wires, so I was going by a procedure (in Adobe) I found either here or i-BMW, but it mentions BOTH wires having spade terminals.

 

What's the cure? Hope don't have to cut the wires; they're too short already, so would have to add some length. It just seems stupid I'd have to do that; hope there's a trick.

Appreciate your comments guys.

 

Oh, and another issue. Noticed the bevel-cut gear attached to the crankcase (after removing crankcase cover) has the left edges a little bit chewed up. The right side of the edges is perfect. This gear is the one that drives 2 other gears: One below it (6 o'clock), which becomes the engine output shaft (connected to the clutch). The other, at 9 o'clock (sitting on the bike), I have no idea what it's for (our motor has NO counterbalancing shaft). This small gear only engages the left 1/3 of the crankcase gear surface, and that's the one that chewed up the edge.

I assume that wear took place right away from new, but could you guys inspect yours whenever you have it exposed? It's not big deal at all, but am curious if all are the same. You have to get pretty close, but you can feel the ragged edges, vs the smooth right ones. Take care, and thanks for your help.

[bmwmick]

JC,

Lube the spade connectors with a little vaseline and then pull the connector THROUGH the rubber boot. It'll fit.

I usually just slip a pair of small needle nose pliers down the boot (wire side) and then expand the jaws enough to grasp the connector and pull it through.

As for the intermediate shaft, you have need to replace the tensioner on the bearing pack. See if the gear will move front-to-rear. If it's excessive, it's a lot more work.

 

Mick

[ELP_JC]

Mick, thanks a lot for pitching in buddy. I was able to pull that spade connector (fan switch) thru the boot (and yes, it was a b*tch), but my problem is the 2nd connector (low oil pressure) is NOT a spade, but one of those big connectors that you push to disconnect; no way it fits thru that space. THAT IS my problem. Apparently this changed from previous bikes. Can't believe BMW screw up like this.

If I get no answers, will remove timing cover and see if there's something I'm missing. Worse case scenario is cutting the darn wires, but hope don't have to do that. Thanks again buddy.

[bmwmick]

If that connector is in a plastic housing, all of them have a locking tab on the connector. If you can slip something like a jewelers screwdriver down the wire side of the housing, you can usually release the tab.

I've never seen a "push to release" connector on the oil pressure sender OR the water temp sender.

On hte K1100's the wires pass BEHIND the timing chain cover and through the Water/Oil pump housing IIRC.

Good luck!

 

Mick

[ELP_JC]

Thanks Mick. This connector is the same as the coil, coolant temperature sensor, and many others.

Some of those small terminals are a bear to remove, and usually cause damage to the housing. Plus under the engine is not the best location to work on that. Will check it out, but will probably end up just splicing the wire (it's just one) and add a suitable connector that passes thru the opening.

Will change the front tire first, then worry about the cover. Will take weeks before I get the parts to put everything back together, so I can relax. Thanks again for your help; have a great weekend.