fuel injector testing

[dirtrider]

16 minutes ago, OnyxWalker said:

Evening,

 

That's exactly what I have, only I had to add the solid brown myself.

Evening  OnyxWalker

 

Maybe I'm missing something here, do you now have ONLY that brown/tan wire hooked to the TB bolt or do have both the brown/tan AND an added brown ground wire hooked to that TB bolt?

 

Unfortunately,  I won't be back to view this thread until tomorrow. 

[OnyxWalker]

Hi Dr,

I have exactly what you are describing, :) I added a Brown wire .

 

Also ,my oil temp sensor had a dedicated plug which came with the harness so I'm pretty confident I got him right. The 02 is pretty straightforward and the air sensor is yet to be determined. 

Is there any good software out there for these bikes, I would imagine you would get an error code if you had a sensor issue?

 

Have a great evening!

 

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, OnyxWalker said:

Hi Dr,

I have exactly what you are describing, :) I added a Brown wire .

 

Also ,my oil temp sensor had a dedicated plug which came with the harness so I'm pretty confident I got him right. The 02 is pretty straightforward and the air sensor is yet to be determined. 

Is there any good software out there for these bikes, I would imagine you would get an error code if you had a sensor issue?

 

Have a great evening!

 

Evening  OnyxWalker

 

Actually I'm still here as I needed to finish a work paper.

 

OK, it is now making some sense to me.

 

You are using that ADDED external ground to circumvent that Motronic internal  low (sort of a ground)  for that  #4 circuit.

 

So I do believe that you have a problem at the Motronic with  (what terminal)  that #4 (brown/tan) wire attaches to,  or that #4 wire is open between the TPS & the Motronic, or you are missing one of the Motronic external ground wires or ground terminations. 

 

That engine should start & run with no external ground to the TB so for some reason that added external ground is replacing the low (ground)  that the Motronic should be doing.   

 

Basically that TPS #4 circuit should be getting it's low (ground) directly from the Motronic not from a remote added ground at the the throttle body.  

 

It will probably run the way you have it now but there is probably enough "potential" difference between the Motronic end of that #4 brown/tan wire & the end you now have it grounded on to effect sensor string input (how much I can't say).   

 

 

[OnyxWalker]

Hi Dr

 

ok I get what your saying.

I'm going to source out the remaining brown wires from the ECU and see if I cant pin point the one that grounds pin 4 on the TPS.

My diagram says pin 22 on the motronic. A Brown-tan wire, 0.5  I only have 2. I'll disconnect the TPS ground and try either of those.

 

Thanks!

 

[dirtrider]

7 hours ago, OnyxWalker said:

Hi Dr

 

ok I get what your saying.

I'm going to source out the remaining brown wires from the ECU and see if I cant pin point the one that grounds pin 4 on the TPS.

My diagram says pin 22 on the motronic. A Brown-tan wire, 0.5  I only have 2. I'll disconnect the TPS ground and try either of those.

 

Thanks!

 

Morning  OnyxWalker

 

Yes, pin 22 on the Motronic.

 

All my wire schematics show a brown/grey wire between the TPS #4 terminal &  Motronic #22 terminal. Color doesn't matter but continuity between pin 4 on the TPS & pin 22 on the Motronic does so make darn sure the same wire leaving the TPS #4 ends up at the Motronic #22.  (double/triple check this)

 

Both the oil temp & air temp sensor can effect the resistance measurement on that brown/grey wire so unplug both sensors before doing any resistance measurements. 

 

Also, identify all the brown ground wires leaving the Motronic & make sure they all see engine case ground then on to battery negative post ground.  

 

 

[OnyxWalker]

Hi,

 

crazy week.. ok so I got it all figured out,

in my case there's two  .035 brown - tan wires coming from the ECU Plug-Harness, they have to be grounded in order for the motor to run without grounding the TB .

Do you see those 2 brown - tan wires on any of your diagrams ? because I dont see them on the Haynes. Just want to be 100% sure.

 

I'm also missing the metal retaining clip for 1 injector electrical plug and the oil temp sensor plug . I thought at one point the dealer sold them but I cant seem to find a number, any idea where I could find these?

 

Thanks.

 

 

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, OnyxWalker said:

Hi,

 

crazy week.. ok so I got it all figured out,

in my case there's two  .035 brown - tan wires coming from the ECU Plug-Harness, they have to be grounded in order for the motor to run without grounding the TB .

Do you see those 2 brown - tan wires on any of your diagrams ? because I dont see them on the Haynes. Just want to be 100% sure.

 

I'm also missing the metal retaining clip for 1 injector electrical plug and the oil temp sensor plug . I thought at one point the dealer sold them but I cant seem to find a number, any idea where I could find these?

Morning  OnyxWalker

 

The injector connector clip & oil temp connector clip are not serviced separately but they are common Bosch 2 pin connectors so  you should be able to buy replacement connectors (with retaining clips)  on-line, or from a local auto parts store (at least in the U.S). A lot of automobiles use the very same Bosch connector with retaining clip.

 

On your ground wires___ 

 

Motronic case ground 1.0mm (just put a small ground wire from the Motronic case to a common ground or battery neg post)-- It will run fine without this but it is used to bleed off any RFI that could effect the internal electronics. A couple of my diagrams also show this ground splitting off &  going to the little ground ring that attaches to the L/H throttle body, so verify that the little wire going to the L/H  TB  ACTUALLY is seeing a ground path when removed form the TB bolt. 

  

Motronic pin 21    .75mm direct ground (this is needed to operate properly)

 

Motronic pin 34    1.5mm direct ground  (this is needed to operate properly)

 

Moronic pin 2     1.5mm  (this is a shared ground with HES sensor pin 3,  HES sensor wire pigtail RFI shielding, & CCP low.

 

I have one more shared Motronic/Sensor ground that I haven't totally identified (all I have is a shared solder joint ID number). 

I need to go into some of my old BMW wire schematics & try to identify this  solder connection & where it terminates (look back here in a day or two as I'm not sure I will get back into my shop today. (I'm not sure how important this shared ground wire is to Motronic operation but we better understand it's importance to fueling & spark control.  

[dirtrider]

Afternoon OnyxWalker

 

OK, I have some conflicting info on the 2004 R wiring.

 

What country (motorcycle originally sold in) did your engine come from? Or at least tell me if a U.S. 1150R engine or other country?

 

I also need to know if your fuse box has a 2nd load relief relay?  

 

The yellow relay shown in the below picture__

 

[OnyxWalker]

Afternoon Dr.

 

I would be 99% sure the bike was purchased in the U.S, I dont have the fuse holder so I cant answer that question, sorry.

 

theres a .035 solid brown which I assumed went right to the diagnostic plug? thats where I stuck it anyway . Not sure if thats the one you speak of.

 

Ya I looked at a few of those plugs and there all a bit different, than you have the scammers selling bent paper clips for six bucks.

I've rigged up something temporary for now, but the thickness of the wire used for the clip is crucial to getting a good fit, if not you dont get contact.

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, OnyxWalker said:

Afternoon Dr.

 

I would be 99% sure the bike was purchased in the U.S, I dont have the fuse holder so I cant answer that question, sorry.

 

theres a .035 solid brown which I assumed went right to the diagnostic plug? thats where I stuck it anyway . Not sure if thats the one you speak of.

 

Ya I looked at a few of those plugs and there all a bit different, than you have the scammers selling bent paper clips for six bucks.

I've rigged up something temporary for now, but the thickness of the wire used for the clip is crucial to getting a good fit, if not you dont get contact.

 

Afternoon OnyxWalker

 

This is going to be more difficult if we don't know what we are working with (just enough difference to be confusing). 

 

How are your powering your upper stick coils? On a lot of 2004 1150 bikes (especially later ones) the upper spark plug coils are powered through that load relief relief 2 relay. 

 

The .5 brown wire going to the diagnostic plug should be a branch tee'd into the ground wire going from engine  ground to the little eye ring going to the L/H throttle body. (at least on most 2004 Ma 2.4 wire diagrams that I have).   

[OnyxWalker]

Hi,

No sweat, ground everything.

Its running surprisingly smooth for crappy spark plugs and shitty injectors, I dont find the vibration bad at all and with new plugs and injectors it will only be better!

I just want to do a few burns and test out the clutch under load, make sure it can handle the torque. After that I'm going to remove the engine and build a stand so I can bring it to a shop to get tuned. Starting to get chilly..

This winter I'll get her wrapped and build the wings, hopefully be ready for early spring :)

I would like to go full synthetic motor oil but for now I just used regular. The plan was to do a c-foam treatment before switching to syn. any thoughts on that  :)

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

29 minutes ago, OnyxWalker said:

Hi,

No sweat, ground everything.

Its running surprisingly smooth for crappy spark plugs and shitty injectors, I dont find the vibration bad at all and with new plugs and injectors it will only be better!

I just want to do a few burns and test out the clutch under load, make sure it can handle the torque. After that I'm going to remove the engine and build a stand so I can bring it to a shop to get tuned. Starting to get chilly..

This winter I'll get her wrapped and build the wings, hopefully be ready for early spring :)

I would like to go full synthetic motor oil but for now I just used regular. The plan was to do a c-foam treatment before switching to syn. any thoughts on that  :)

 

 

 

Evening OnyxWalker

 

I think you will find most of the vibration (more like a higher frequency buzz) will come in around 4000-4500 RPM's under engine load & that pesky buzz has nothing to to do with spark or fueling.

 

The BMW boxer engine is an inherently a primary balanced engine but the the pistons travel in & out together  so the crankshaft needs offset connecting rod journals. THAT is what causes the higher RPM vibration (buzz)  as the offset pistons & rod journals cause a rocking couple & "that" is what  causes the buzzing.

 

The BMW 1150 boxer isn't finicky about oil so unless you plan on not using an oil cooler it will be good with about any up level motor oil. Personally I wouldn't do any treatments as there just isn't enough difference between synthetic & conventional oils in todays up level oil choices. If you see signs oil seepage then probably stay with conventional oil.