R1100RS Innovate LC-2 installation.

[Ian1100]

I have read though all the threads on the LC-1 installation and have a couple of questions. Thanks to roger 04 rt 

The original Lambda sensor wires, Black to LC-2 analog 1. Do I just tape up the heater wires and the ground?

I've seen some info that says a resistor could be added to the ground or between heater wires?

 

TIA Ian

 

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Ian1100 said:

I have read though all the threads on the LC-1 installation and have a couple of questions. Thanks to roger 04 rt 

The original Lambda sensor wires, Black to LC-2 analog 1. Do I just tape up the heater wires and the ground?

I've seen some info that says a resistor could be added to the ground or between heater wires?

 

TIA Ian

 

 

Morning Lan

 

You should probably PM JamesW  (his PM address below) , he has been running an LC-1 on an 1100RS for a long time now.

 

https://www.bmwsporttouring.com/profile/34805-jamesw/

 

 

[Ian1100]

Many thanks DR

[JamesW]

Hello Ian,

More I think about your message the more I can't figure out what kind of a lash up you have with this Innovate LC-2.  Did you buy the LC-2 new?  If so I can't figure out what you are referring to when you describe taping up black wires.  The LC-2 from Innovate Motor Sports comes with a Wideband O2 sensor already to just plug in to the respective control unit cable connector  There are no black wires to do anything with just plug and play, simple.  If you are trying to connect the original O2 sensor it won't work with the LC-2.

[Ian1100]

Hi James, I have confused myself reading all the different posts on LC-1 installation. Its the wires from the old O2 sensor that I can't work out. I've got the yellow (Analog out 1) to the black O2 sensor wire. Can I power the LC-2 from the white +12v ? The other white wire and the grey (gray) what do I do with them? I seen a somewhere that the grey wire has a resistor installed? 

 

It's a new LC-2 

 

Many thanks

Ian

[JamesW]

OK Ian, did your new LC-2 not come with a ready to install and connectorized wideband O2 sensor?  It should have so all you do is remove the narrow band factory installed sensor, screw in the new sensor and away you go.  No wires to splice into or hook up just plug and play.

[Ian1100]

Yes James it came with the new wideband sensor which just plugs in to the LC-2 but I need to get the analog output back to the motronic ecu. 

This is the Innovate Motosports LC-2 and I also need to get a 12v supply from somewhere and the instructions say to get it from the battery through a relay, but I wondered if it could be supplied from the old O2 heater wire like the LC-1?

 

The Bmw AF-xied is more plug and play but I was unable to get one shipped to the UK.

 

Ian

 

[JamesW]

3 hours ago, Ian1100 said:

Yes James it came with the new wideband sensor which just plugs in to the LC-2 but I need to get the analog output back to the motronic ecu. 

This is the Innovate Motosports LC-2 and I also need to get a 12v supply from somewhere and the instructions say to get it from the battery through a relay, but I wondered if it could be supplied from the old O2 heater wire like the LC-1?

 

The Bmw AF-xied is more plug and play but I was unable to get one shipped to the UK.

 

Ian

 

 

OK, now I see what you are after.  A good place to power up the LC-2 is from pin #1 of the 4 pin connector that plugs into the fuel tank that would be the green/ white wire of the 4 pin connector located at the right rear lower side of the fuel tank.  So, when you start the motorcycle the LC-2 will get +12 volts with no volts with just the key in the on position.  Note, that after start up it will take the LC-2 about 55 seconds to initialize and send a signal to the ECU.  Now the analog output of the LC-2 which is the simulated O2 sensor signal should go to pin #2 of the wiring harness connector where the original O2 sensor connected.  This should be a yellow shielded wire which connected to the black wire (signal) from the original O2 sensor.  The two white wires from the original O2 sensor are heater connections which go to pin #3 & #4 (brown & green/white wires) of the wiring harness connector and are not used with the LC-2. The LC-2 supplies heater voltage to the new wideband O2 sensor. The brown wire of the O2 sensor connector is common.  Anywhere you find a brown wire in the harness it will be common.

 

Hope this is clear for you.  I would suggest you buy a Haynes Service and Repair Manual for your bike.  Much less expensive than the BMW shop manual.  I have both and I most of the time just use Haynes.

 

 

[Ian1100]

Thanks James that helps a lot. I have the the BMW repair manual that I downloaded, I will see if I can get the Haynes one.

Thanks again, Ian

[JamesW]

Morning Ian,

I don't know what year your BMW is but out of curiosity does the bike have a catalytic converter and if so does it have an actual cat code plug (CCP) in the fuse/relay box?  If it has a CCP have you tried removing it and running without it?  In my case I've been using an LC-2 for quite some time and experimented with different AFR ratios with good success having finally settled on an AFR of 13.4:1  Then a week or so ago I cut the CCP jumper and took a ride and found out that I'm much better off to just in affect have no CCP and just ride the bike in open loop with no LC-2 in other words no O2 sensor.  I was always afraid to do this for fear of carbon deposits but after thoroughly investigating what actually takes place with the CCP removed I find that there is virtually no chance to develop carbon deposits and the bike idles perfectly and has more than adequate smooth power delivery at speed.

 

I don't know if this would work for you because your bike may be different being a UK version.  Also, if in the UK you have strict emission control you might not want to do this.  Where I live there is virtually no mandatory emission control enforcement so no worries in that regard.  That said I do have issues with circumventing emission control regulations from a moral standpoint.  However with the O2 sensor out of the picture the AFR ratio with a warm engine running at speed the AFR ratio is actually leaner at 14.0:1 than with the LC-2 set for 13.4:1 so all is not too terrible.  At 14.0:1 there is maybe a slight reduction in top end power delivery which I don't find objectionable at all.  There is also maybe a slight increase in low end torque, I think.  I did have a dyno run performed on my bike in 2012 and I'm thinking about having another dyno run in its present configuration and tune just out of curiosity to compare.  We shall see.

 

As a side note:  I wouldn't recommend anyone with a later R1150 bike remove the CCP as the results will not be the same as on an early R1100 for sure and I speak from experience.