Mounting resistors for LED signals

[Dave P]

1996 1100RT. So over the winter I installed LEDs all around, while everything does work, as I suspected the turn signals do the hyperflash. I read that the bike thinks the "bulbs" are burned out cause the LEDs draw such a small amount of power. It sounds like adding a resistor to each of the signals will calm down the hyperflash. Many of you have installed LEDs, (probably with the resistors), where do folks typically mount these? I hear they can get really hot. Also, do resistors on signals get hot? Signals aren't typically on very long, not like a tail light. Oh, on this bike the signals are not set up as running lights, just as signals. I did think about extending the lines of the resistors so I could mount them closer to the engine instead of where its all plastic in the signal housings. Thanks, Dave

[Miguel!]

Dave, you install them in parallel with the bulbs. Each bulb gets its own resister. There's plenty of room for them in the front turn signal housing as well as the rear turn signal house.

 

If you are interested, I have four resistors that are the right value and wattage. You can connect them quickly using clip-on wire connectors. Mine look like these from Amazon. Just pay shipping. 

 

The better approach in my opinion is to replace the OEM turn signal relay with the Kisantech SM-5 SignalMinder, $129!!. It incorporates a number of safety features that I really like and It doesn't require load resistors for LED bulbs (which is what I run). Safety features include converting the turn signals into running lights that flash when the turn signal is engaged; flashes brake light and all turn signals when you apply the brakes to attract attention to other riders and drivers; automatically shuts off the turn signal after a specified time duration unless the brakes are applied (I have mine set to 8 seconds and the count down timer can be reset by tapping the brakes while its flashing), turn signal cancel by hitting the turn signal a second time (the OEM turn signal cancel still works but I don't use it much), four way flasher by simultaneously hitting both turn signals. My turn signal housings never get hot because the LED bulbs are such low power. Its plug and play and really provides good value in my opinion. 

 

BTW, I found using yellow/amber LED bulbs work better than white bulbs which are not too yellow when looking at them thru the lens. The bulbs I use are 1260 lumens which is brighter than the OEM bulbs and only use a few watts or power (the OEM use 20 watts). $19 for 4 bulbs. 

 

Compared to the OEM bulbs, they turn on and off in a blink of an eye. The OEM incandescent bulbs have a short but obvious turn on/off transients (I tried an LED in one side and an incandescent in the other). Some people have said the rapid turn on/off attracts the eye. I don't know. Maybe. 

 

Hope that helps. PM me if you want the resistors.

 

Best

Miguel

[Dave P]

Hi Miguel- Thanks for the info and offer. I did see a set of resistors on ebay for about 10 bucks with free shipping. Would 10 bucks cover shipping of your 4 resistors?

 

Do the resistors on turn signals get hot?  Just wondering where I'd mount those. Maybe on the steel frame under the seat.

 

I think for now I'm just gonna use this setup as is. Been riding the bike long enough that I always cancel the signals. Some folk don't like the early oilhead signals, but I think push left to go left, right to go right makes perfect sense. My bike has the old Hyperlights under the brake lights. Remember those?  Dave

[Warren Dean]

1 hour ago, Miguel! said:

Dave, you install them in parallel with the bulbs. Each bulb gets its own resister. There's plenty of room for them in the front turn signal housing as well as the rear turn signal house.

 

If you are interested, I have four resistors that are the right value and wattage. You can connect them quickly using clip-on wire connectors. Mine look like these from Amazon. Just pay shipping. 

 

The better approach in my opinion is to replace the OEM turn signal relay with the Kisantech SM-5 SignalMinder, $129!!. It incorporates a number of safety features that I really like and It doesn't require load resistors for LED bulbs (which is what I run). Safety features include converting the turn signals into running lights that flash when the turn signal is engaged; flashes brake light and all turn signals when you apply the brakes to attract attention to other riders and drivers; automatically shuts off the turn signal after a specified time duration unless the brakes are applied (I have mine set to 8 seconds and the count down timer can be reset by tapping the brakes while its flashing), turn signal cancel by hitting the turn signal a second time (the OEM turn signal cancel still works but I don't use it much), four way flasher by simultaneously hitting both turn signals. My turn signal housings never get hot because the LED bulbs are such low power. Its plug and play and really provides good value in my opinion. 

 

BTW, I found using yellow/amber LED bulbs work better than white bulbs which are not too yellow when looking at them thru the lens. The bulbs I use are 1260 lumens which is brighter than the OEM bulbs and only use a few watts or power (the OEM use 20 watts). $19 for 4 bulbs. 

 

Compared to the OEM bulbs, they turn on and off in a blink of an eye. The OEM incandescent bulbs have a short but obvious turn on/off transients (I tried an LED in one side and an incandescent in the other). Some people have said the rapid turn on/off attracts the eye. I don't know. Maybe. 

 

Hope that helps. PM me if you want the resistors.

 

Best

Miguel

What he said. 

 

I love my SM-5. Much better visibility and painless to install. May be a bit pricey, but it works very well.

[Miguel!]

1 hour ago, Dave P said:

Hi Miguel- Thanks for the info and offer. I did see a set of resistors on ebay for about 10 bucks with free shipping. Would 10 bucks cover shipping of your 4 resistors?

 

Do the resistors on turn signals get hot?  Just wondering where I'd mount those. Maybe on the steel frame under the seat.

 

I think for now I'm just gonna use this setup as is. Been riding the bike long enough that I always cancel the signals. Some folk don't like the early oilhead signals, but I think push left to go left, right to go right makes perfect sense. My bike has the old Hyperlights under the brake lights. Remember those?  Dave

Dave, I suggest you just get the eBay set (make sure you get 4 resistors). Cost would be about the same for me but I'd have to spend time mailing them. 

 

They do get warm while the turn signal is one but not really too hot since they are on only 50% of the time. They are mimicking the the incandescent bulbs so get about as warm as the incandescent bulbs do. You can zip tie them to something to keep them from rattling around. The PO installed the LEDs and resistors. He just let them float around in the tail assembly. I took them out when I got the SM-5 so now they sit in my R1100RT parts box.

 

I agree with you on the turn signals. I have no problem with them at all. I don't particularly care for the turn signal cancel or horn button tho given I have a bit of arthritis in the thumb joint that hurts when I push up with it while gripping the handlebars. BTW, I was able to reduce the spring tension in the horn button. I posted about it in this forum a couple years ago. I'd guess you could do the same with the cancel button as well. 

 

Best

Miguel

[bigeye135]

I suggest you modify your turn signal relay. Chris Harris has a video on it here. He got his info from this advrider post.

 

Really all you need to do is cut this red line. If the signals only flash once after that, cut this one.

 

I did this on my 98 r1100r no problem. It's reversible with solder if you ever need to, and you don't have to go cutting up the harness and finding places to put large and hot resistors.

[Miguel!]

Excellent Bigeye! This type of info exchange is exactly what forums like this are all about. I'd not seen this video from Chris north advrider post. 

 

Cheers. Miguel

[Dave P]

Big- that's cool, and, like the beer when Flounder and Larry enter the Delta House, "Don't cost nothin" !

[Lowndes]

Mine don't exactly "hyper" flash, they just blink a little quicker.  I like 'em better this way, they "catch the eye" much quicker.

 

There are relays for LED's that you plug in in place of the OEM flasher:

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf12anl-01-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/781/835/

 

https://www.amazon.com/smseace-Flasher-Vehicle-Electronic-JL-02-1pcs/dp/B08JPG2H8T/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3APT3XC57DAVE&dchild=1&keywords=automotive+flasher+for+led+lights&qid=1617762511&sprefix=automotive+flasher%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-8

 

I'm sure most automotive parts shops have similar relays, just pull your relay and take it in to one.  Plug and play, no soldering, cutting, etc.

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Mine don't exactly "hyper" flash, they just blink a little quicker.  I like 'em better this way, they "catch the eye" much quicker.

 

There are relays for LED's that you plug in in place of the OEM flasher:

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf12anl-01-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/781/835/

 

https://www.amazon.com/smseace-Flasher-Vehicle-Electronic-JL-02-1pcs/dp/B08JPG2H8T/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3APT3XC57DAVE&dchild=1&keywords=automotive+flasher+for+led+lights&qid=1617762511&sprefix=automotive+flasher%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-8

 

I'm sure most automotive parts shops have similar relays, just pull your relay and take it in to one.  Plug and play, no soldering, cutting, etc.

Morning  Lowndes

 

Those relays are not for the older BMW motorcycles. The BMW 1100/1150 motorcycles use momentary type contact switches & a combined momentary cancel switch. (totally different switching than those automotive relays require).  

 

It would take a wiring genius to make those automotive turn signal relays work with the OEM BMW 1100/1150 turn signal switches.  If a rider was that smart they wouldn't be here asking about how to install simple parallel resistors.   

 

Below picture is the terminal end of the OEM BMW 1100/1150 turn signal flasher relay.

 

[Lowndes]

THANKS, Dirtrider!!

 

It's a good thing I did'nt even pull my flasher.  I probably wouldn't even be able to put it back.

[Paul De]

On 4/4/2021 at 8:49 PM, Warren Dean said:

What he said. 

 

I love my SM-5. Much better visibility and painless to install. May be a bit pricey, but it works very well.

+1

 

Put this unit on my '99RT many years ago, but didn't know it works with LED bulbs.   Really do like the time out feature and ran an 18 or 22 gauge wire along the frame rail to the rear brake spring binding post for the + side of the brake light to suspend the time out while the brake light is on.  Plug and play, and no splicing into the wire harness. yea!

 

Also put on the Tailblazer which gives a series of brake light pulses before going on solid. It is ingeniously built into the standard bulb bayonet base and used a brighter halogen bulb that is replaceable, but the latest version uses LED

https://kisantech.com/20w-s.html  Pricey but IMO does improves visibility

[King Herald]

On 4/7/2021 at 12:41 PM, Lowndes said:

THANKS, Dirtrider!!

 

It's a good thing I did'nt even pull my flasher.  I probably wouldn't even be able to put it back.

 

Even getting the flasher out is a chore, as it has some weird swinging clamp on the back of the wiring plug, to stop it falling off I assume. 

[Gary E Reynolds]

Don’t do it!!! Resisters generate heat! That defeats the whole purpose of LED lights. 
Fot LED turn signals there is a way to change the flash rate. It involves cutting two circuits on the solid state BMW flash relay. I’ll try to find that link and send it to you!

[Gary E Reynolds]

 Check this out.

 

[Gary E Reynolds]

https://youtu.be/REYFATNRy5Q < this is the best and cheapest way to go!