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R1100rt frame removal


Dimlount

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Greetings fellow oilheads,

Hell i might start a blog series about my rt, cause there are so many questions etc. But lets just start from the frame!

 

So long story short in a couple weeks i will replace the front frame ( the one with the frame tablet). I read through the bmw manual i cant see any pictures of the whole procedure, so i find it kinda hard to fully grasp before attempting.Anyone got a lead ? Pictures of the whole procedure will help a lot!

 

Any help appreciated :)

 

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15 minutes ago, Dimlount said:

Greetings fellow oilheads,

Hell i might start a blog series about my rt, cause there are so many questions etc. But lets just start from the frame!

 

So long story short in a couple weeks i will replace the front frame ( the one with the frame tablet). I read through the bmw manual i cant see any pictures of the whole procedure, so i find it kinda hard to fully grasp before attempting.Anyone got a lead ? Pictures of the whole procedure will help a lot!

 

Any help appreciated :)

 

Afternoon Dimlount

 

What part of the frame are you planning on replacing? Just the front fairing holder? Or the part that includes the upper triple tree?

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Thanks for the quick reply!

 

Actually i will replace both but the part that holds the upper triple tree is the one! The one with the frame number on it :)

Edited by Dimlount
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13 minutes ago, Dimlount said:

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

Actually i will replace both but the part that holds the upper triple tree is the one! The one with the frame number on it :)

Evening  Dimlount

 

The BMW service manual covers the basics  but does assume that the person doing the job knows the basics & is familiar with the BMW 1100  basic sub assemblies. Some pictures but not many & not real detailed but enough to do the job. It does give assembly torques. 

 

You sort of have to start with the service manual on the plastic panels removal,  then fuel tank removal, then the upper front fairing parts, then onto the faring holder, then on to the front sub frame (once you get the fairing holder removed the sub frame part is very easy).

 

If you have to transfer the triple tree & bearings that adds a bit of complexity but the service manual has a guidance list. (you will probably need a heat gun) 

 

I don't know of a full picture layout with a step by step but possibly someone has documented the procedure then posted it on-line (you will have to search to see what is out there).

 

What service manual are you trying to use?  

 

I can't post the BMW service manual pages on this site as it is copyrighted but can probably send you  some individual page info by private message if you need it.  

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Thanks for the replies :)

 

Giving a bit of backstory for the bike:

The bike was crushed and sat for 2 years after insurance coverance and registration delete.

Bought her and i am in the process of bringing it back to life.

 

So fairings are removed, both left right and front. Tank removal will happen anyway since i will replace the pump filter and hoses.

 

From the crash the front frame holder was bend also the joint with the bolt joint on the frame that holds the upper triple tree was broken. Both bought ( the frame has active registration etc) and i am in the process of changing them. 

 

About the manual i think i found the bmw one ( has all the r- models in it).

I kinda make some sense from its instructions ( i am a mechanic myself but on the shop we work on lower cc bikes, mopeds and scooters) but i ask just to be ready for anything that might happen so i have everything at the shop etc.

 

I dont want to be caught unprepared since the procedure will happen on a weekend :)The think the troubles me most is the ball bearing since in the bikes we work the steering works with simple bearings.

 

I read it needs heating on max 120C° to remove, is it reusable after that or shall i buy a new one?

 

Also sorry for my mediocre english i try my best  :P

 

wholeheartedly,

Dim

Edited by Dimlount
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6 hours ago, Dimlount said:

Thanks for the replies :)

 

Giving a bit of backstory for the bike:

The bike was crushed and sat for 2 years after insurance coverance and registration delete.

Bought her and i am in the process of bringing it back to life.

 

So fairings are removed, both left right and front. Tank removal will happen anyway since i will replace the pump filter and hoses.

 

From the crash the front frame holder was bend also the joint with the bolt joint on the frame that holds the upper triple tree was broken. Both bought ( the frame has active registration etc) and i am in the process of changing them. 

 

About the manual i think i found the bmw one ( has all the r- models in it).

I kinda make some sense from its instructions ( i am a mechanic myself but on the shop we work on lower cc bikes, mopeds and scooters) but i ask just to be ready for anything that might happen so i have everything at the shop etc.

 

I dont want to be caught unprepared since the procedure will happen on a weekend :)The think the troubles me most is the ball bearing since in the bikes we work the steering works with simple bearings.

 

I read it needs heating on max 120C° to remove, is it reusable after that or shall i buy a new one?

 

Also sorry for my mediocre english i try my best  :P

 

wholeheartedly,

Dim

Morning    Dimlount

 

That is LOT to do in a weekend, the work itself is doable but on a crashed motorcycle you are almost sure to find things that you didn't account for. I will be real surprised if you don't run into something that you don't have or still need to get.

 

The heat shouldn't hurt the bearing as long as you don't go any hotter than the manual suggests. But my worry here is if it was crashed hard enough to snap that upper triple tree bolt (that is a very large bolt) that the impact forces also damaged the bearing or other parts in that area.   

 

My one suggestion is to have a backup plan to move/store that partially disassembled motorcycle in case you find things that you are not prepared for. (I have worked on enough of these old BMW's to say that is definitely a BIG possibility)

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Dim, your English is near perfect and we easily understand it. Your profile doesn't say where you live.

 

I admire your courage in attempting to salvage this bike. If you have it, it'd be worthwhile sharing a photo of the crushed bike. My fear is that the main bike frame is bent as well and possibly cracked. When you get the fuel tank off, look closely at frame joints near the front of the bike for signs of cracks and bending. If the frame is bent, the bike will likely not run straight and will pull to one side or the other. 

 

Please let us know how it comes out.

Miguel

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44 minutes ago, Miguel! said:

Dim, your English is near perfect and we easily understand it. Your profile doesn't say where you live.

 

I admire your courage in attempting to salvage this bike. If you have it, it'd be worthwhile sharing a photo of the crushed bike. My fear is that the main bike frame is bent as well and possibly cracked. When you get the fuel tank off, look closely at frame joints near the front of the bike for signs of cracks and bending. If the frame is bent, the bike will likely not run straight and will pull to one side or the other. 

 

Please let us know how it comes out.

Miguel

Afternoon   Miguel

 

He is replacing the front frame so a bent frame or cracked welds go in the trash with the removed frame. Not much to the front frame on a BMW 1100RT as the engine case is the main stressed  structure with the stubby  little front frame bolting to the engine with a large through bolt up front & a couple of structural supports attaching to the front frame then bolting to the engine case farther rearward.  

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Thanks for your replies!

 

Dear Dirtrider,

Its not the bearing bolt thats broken but the holdings that  bolts the front fairing holder into the frame!

 

So its a win win situation since the frame will be removed so the bike has registration with the new one.

 

The crash was as follows:

Car hit the bike from the right ( crashing the fairing , bending the front fairing holder and some other minor things) and fell on the pavement right on the left cylinder head( breaking and bending one of the four bolts ^resulting in broken head thread in that bolt)

 

So far i have purchased:

Frame with registration

Front Fairing Holder

Temp/gas screen ( was missing)

Front fairing

Right fairing

Left head valve cap

Right footpeg plate

 

When i got the bike i changed spark plugs and tried to start the engine in order to see its condition ( bad move since old oil and gas was still in the bike but! Excitement got the best of me ) it started right up so i started the project.

Engine sounded right,transmission works pretty good gearbox is delightful.

 

So far i have changed

Spark plugs

Engine oil( will be changed again soon )

Transmission oil

Gearbox oil

Oil filter

Air filter

Valve clearance checked

Right footpeg plate

Left head valve cap

 

 

 

 

Edited by Dimlount
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Continuing....

Now i need to change the frames, fuel filter and pump lines, braking fluid and brake pads, put some fresh rubber on the wheels! Fix mirrors!

All these are minor stuff except the frames thats why i made a thread about it 

 

I cant post photos right now since i got the bike to a friend to fix the head thread that was broken and some minor fixes.

 

I can upload the photos of how it was when i purchased it if you want, and update letter when i get it back

 

So it turns into a blog, i need to update my thread title :)

 

Wholeheartedly,

dim

 

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Hey guys,

 

Quick update, got the bike back from my friend and replaced front brake pads. 

Still waiting for my rear brake pad set and then proceed to bleeding with lines. I went with EBC organic just for testing them out ( hear the hh series activates the abs too early cause of the immense stoppage grip, probably no sense but whatever )

 

In 2-3 weeks time i will be taking the frame out, probably will replace the steering bearing as well( the bike has 116k kms on) just to be sure i never mess with that again  :P Will provide more pics soon!

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  • 1 month later...

Hey all!

 

Small update on my journey.

 

Weeks went by and life interfered with the project, last week i tried to take out the battery to charge it so the bike was ready to get into the shop.

 

Long story short the key broke had no spare went to the locksmith. He couldnt copy the key sadly so i am in the process of taking the locks out.( the horror) 

Removed the handlebar plate today so some progress on the frame made as well. 

 

The steering bearing is rusty and "noisy" so it will be replaced as well. We keep going!

 

 

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Too bad about the key. When I first got my bike, I went to a local locksmith. He knew it was a BMW key from the mid '90s and he had blanks. It's the same key used by BMW cars back then. He charged me $4 each. I put one in each jacket pocket and hid one under the foot peg and rubber after grinding off the key head a bit. Hopefully, you'll be able to find some just as easily as I have.

 

There are a number of people on the site that are experts are removing they key barrels. Tri750 helped me rekey a top case. I was able to FaceTime with him (video phone on the iPhone) and we solved my problem in real-time. Nice man. Perhaps PM to see if he can help you.

 

Miguel

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So far he made a new key for all the locks, but i need to get them to him one by one to "fix" them.

 

Fuel tank lock and seat lock left. Trying to think of a way to "fish" the seat cable. That seat lock was stiff (original key passed away on that lock )

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On 4/7/2021 at 12:48 PM, Dimlount said:

Hey guys,

 

Quick update, got the bike back from my friend and replaced front brake pads. 

Still waiting for my rear brake pad set and then proceed to bleeding with lines. I went with EBC organic just for testing them out ( hear the hh series activates the abs too early cause of the immense stoppage grip, probably no sense but whatever )

 

In 2-3 weeks time i will be taking the frame out, probably will replace the steering bearing as well( the bike has 116k kms on) just to be sure i never mess with that again  :P Will provide more pics soon!

I have used the EBC organics and they work well. Saves a lot of money VS OEM pads.  They do have a tendency to make a slight squeak as your wheel stops rotating, but nothing too irritating.

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Worked some more today ( sadly i work on the bike after work until the shop closes because i dont have tools :( )

 

Removed the fuel tank lock and i just couldnt make the seat lock open!

 

I thought i might do reverse disassembly since i need to do the frame in the weekend, so i removed the tank,wiggled the front seat and got it out.

 

Back seat still latching on! Removed one of the plastic stoppers of the seat the other had a serious seized allen bolt in it. So more wigglying and i am left with the back seat holding only to the lock mechanism!

 

Tommorow i will replace the fuel lines and filter since it was something i wanted to do

 

Again i forgot photos cause i am rushing before our shop closes :(

 

In the next days maybe weekend i will try removing the allen bolts from the mechanism, sadly the space is tight so it needs time :)

 

Hope your eyes dont stink after you read all of that , i just returned from working so... :)

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Small update. Took the pump out replaced filter and fuel lines. To my surprise the vent hoses are beyond saving so i will replace them as well.

 

Do i just take the 1 meter of each and put them inside or is there a problem if they are slack inside the tank?

 

Also i noticed the plastic seating in which the fuel pump is sitting between the pump and pump fuel net is splitting. Shall i remove it as well? Is there a replacement part?  Thanks in advance  :)

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30 minutes ago, Dimlount said:

Small update. Took the pump out replaced filter and fuel lines. To my surprise the vent hoses are beyond saving so i will replace them as well.

 

Do i just take the 1 meter of each and put them inside or is there a problem if they are slack inside the tank?

 

Also i noticed the plastic seating in which the fuel pump is sitting between the pump and pump fuel net is splitting. Shall i remove it as well? Is there a replacement part?  Thanks in advance  :)

Afternoon Dimlount

 

On those smaller hoses, 1 meter for each is too long, 1 meter cut in half is just a bit too short.  

 

I usually just match the new hose length up to the removed hose length.

 

On the pump seat, are you referring to the pump vibration damper under the pump?  If so that is still available from BMW.   It is  P/N-    16141341232 VIBRATION DAMPER, about $26.00 U.S. dollars. 

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Exactly the part i was referring!

 

It was a bummer seeing the vent hoses in that condition and i was totally not expecting that.

 

I guess replacing everything so i wont bother removing the tank again for some time :)

 

Thanks dirtrider

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Its happening guys!

 

Big update

Done with the frame ( actually it was easier than i thought), front fairing holder and pump.

 

Now to put the tank on ,install the new fuel lines and start it again. Then some fixing on the wiring ( tire up the bulk), fix turn signals and try the headlight on with the new fairing.

 

For now i didnt install the windscreen motor, hot air tubes and removed the old speakers. When i get some more funds i will add them too.

 

I still need to remove the back lock for fixing too 20210522_105546.thumb.jpg.3683a54a0bee216f0e64892711ee5d1c.jpg20210522_105514.thumb.jpg.e10eae9643107d94a90b1b94171fde7d.jpg

 

First pictures : vent hoses

 Steering bearing

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  • 4 weeks later...

Fellow bmw fans! We are getting there ! 

Did a little paint touch up on the fairings and put them on! Mirrors next, knee pillows on the fairing and pretty much sums it up for now!

 

I am reluctant to put the windshield on since the holder arms are broke. I tied em with some zips but i dont believe they can hold the windshield on 80km+ 

20210614_195704.jpg

20210614_195648.jpg

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Hey Lowndes,

 

It was the left side one and it was the first thing i replaced in order to test fire the machine!

 

There was a kind of brain fart moment last Sunday, didnt notice i have 2 right mirrors instead of a right and left.. even after i painted both !! So a replacement is in order. ( needs painting too since its red )

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Dim- that bike looks like a case of ridden hard, put away wet, and left to die. So great you are going the extra mile to resurrect her. Blue 1100 RT, looks just like my 96! Dave

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Thanks for your kind words, indeed it was in a bad shape . Was really happy when i discovered that the engine, gearbox and differencial were in very good condition! 

It is the anniversary model as well, had the stickers and everything  :)

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When I bought my 96 back in 13, it had 95k on the clock, ran well, rode well and seemed to be well maintained, but was banged up, slid down the road once. Generally every panel needed repair and paint. I fixed all of the damage and painted the old girl. She now has 125k, still looks good and runs great. Dave

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So! Yesterday the bike passed the MOP test and is ready for the number plate!.

 

Some issues i had yesterday:

Suddenly while riding the fuel line from the injector popped of and didnt stay on the injector when the system had pressure. Had to remove the fairing mid road, put a ziptie and that held it until i was finished. What do ?

 

Engine after running sounds kinda noisy. Its my first BMW so i dont know how much noise is acceptable. I have the rattling on the left cylinder on start up some times so the cam tensioner will be replaced, but i think the main source is the alternator belt? Does the old cam tensioner noise stop after startup? 

 

How noisy are these machines??? xD

 

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Morning  Dimlount

 

Dimlount said__ "Some issues i had yesterday:"

 

Suddenly while riding the fuel line from the injector popped of and didnt stay on the injector when the system had pressure. Had to remove the fairing mid road, put a ziptie and that held it until i was finished. What to do ?---    There is a good chance that your injector fuel supply line attachment rubber "O" ring  is swelled up from long-term fuel contact. Try removing the "O" ring then see if the line & clip will fit back on the injector OK. If that helps the fit  then put the "O" ring out in the hot sun for while (this should shrink it a little), then reinstall it using a little silicone grease (or something similar). Then see if the line & clip can be properly re-installed & seated correctly.

 

Engine after running sounds kinda noisy. Its my first BMW so i dont know how much noise is acceptable. I have the rattling on the left cylinder on start up some times so the cam tensioner will be replaced, but i think the main source is the alternator belt? Does the old cam tensioner noise stop after startup?---    The loud cam chain noise due to the old style tensioner usually goes mostly away after the engine is running for a few minutes & the tensioner fills with oil but in some cases the noise won't completely go away if the old tensioner is worn so then leaks enough to not do it's job of tensioning the chain.  

 

How noisy are these machines???---    "THIS" is difficult to answer, it depends on what you compare it to. It is a somewhat large piston, air cooled,  boxer engine with thin alloy castings so they tend to be somewhat noisy.  

 

You can usually hear a lot of subtle engine noises but nothing should stand out as extremely loud, hammering, or  loudly clacking. 

 

With the clutch engaged in neutral there is usually some transmission gear rattling also.

 

You need to listen to another similar BMW engine, or  have someone that owns a similar BMW listen to your motorcycle.   

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Hey thanks for the quick answer!

 

On the fuel line popping issue: i thought that might be it cause i couldnt think of anything else popping out the pin mid-road. Maybe the pin was worn too? Will change both :)

 

I booked to change that chain tensioner and to get a throttle sync in a bmw shop since i dont own the tool yet and i dont know when the bike had its last sync.

 

If the throttle bodies are slightly out of sync it makes the engine a little bit more noisy ?

 

thanks in advance

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey fellow beautiful BMW riders! ,

 

Another quick update, i got and installed the left chain tensioner so the rattle is gone ( had the old tensioner on it ), bought new grips (originals)

 

Tommorow is tyre day! I am going to install the Dunlop roadsmarts II. I was after the battlax t31s but we have a big supply problem here so the Dunlops will do for now  :)

 

In two days the bike will go to the BMW shop for injection adjustment and alternator belt. 

Told the mechanic to do a check on the bike and see what i missed so far , so i can track and fix them. 

 

I have been riding her in town for 2-3 days now except for the old tyres been cr@p i really like the bike. Still getting used to it, i need the learn proper gear change on it.

 

Best Regards,

Dimlount

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Dimlount- sounds like you have already done some pretty involved repairs, an alternator belt change would be a piece of cake. 
 

When I first got my 1100RT, I seemed to have a problem grinding the lower gears when shifting. I was advised to pre-load the gear peg and pop it into the next gear like I really meant it. No lazy shifts. I haven't heard that 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd grind in years. Dave

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  • 4 weeks later...

Greetings again fellow BMW enthusiasts!

Small update before the last post on the thread.

 

The bike is a dream! I am catching myself looking into the future... and its looking BMW xD

 

Anyway, got the tyres on , she rides true and amazing ! I find myself smilling damn it!!

 

Got the last order for the summer on the way.

Coil covers for both cylinders, windshield assembly with motor and left handlebar switches.

 

Will post photos when i get them installed and got the bike proper looking :) Thanks again for all the helpful tips and tricks, your patience and your comments. 

 

#Dave P pre loading worked as a gift! Thank you :)

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