Checking valve clearance tools?

[lather]

I have ordered the sparkplug cap removal tool and impatiently waiting for it to arrive. Seems like I could pry the cap off with a big fkat balde screw driver. Or is this too risky?

Also if I need to swap shims is it safe to reuse the clips or should I order new ones.

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, lather said:

I have ordered the sparkplug cap removal tool and impatiently waiting for it to arrive. Seems like I could pry the cap off with a big fkat balde screw driver. Or is this too risky?

Also if I need to swap shims is it safe to reuse the clips or should I order new ones.

Afternoon   lather

 

My personal preference is to use (2) flat blade screwdrivers instead of the removal tool as the removal tool can pop the coil off with a big movement & a jerking type harsh force. The 2 screwdrivers sort of allow it to come off slowly, smoothly, & softly. (just kind of oozes off)

 

Just make sure to put some tape or (I use a cut in half old credit card folded to a right angle) on the valve cover where the screwdrivers  will contact the edge of the spark plug well. 

 

Pry smoothly, evenly, & slowly in the coil slots & the coil should come off nice & easily.

 

If you use a coil removal tool then I suggest that you unplug the wire harness at  the coil first (careful as it is real easy to damage that coil or pigtail connector). If you don't unplug the wire then if the coil pops off with force it can ruin the wire or connector)     

 

If you use the 2 screwdriver method & are careful then you can leave the wire pigtail connected to the coil as the coil should come off the spark plug smoothly. 

 

Also: make sure that you put a little dialectic, or  spark plug boot, silicone grease inside the coil rubber boot before snapping the coil back on the spark plug as that not only seals moisture out but also makes removal next time MUCH easier.

[lather]

Thanks again for your helpful reply!

[lather]

I got the coils off ok. Getting the right valve cover off proved to be a hassle due to the crash bars.Only had to loosen the left side but the right side bars had to come off. And the last bolt holding the bar was blocked by the air intake horn which had to come off. If I have to order shims I might as well order a filter although the one in there looks clean.

[Rogerl]

I had a VERY bad experience with the C clips. I do not know how it happened but not to long after I did a valve inspection the right head started making noise. I took off the valve cover and found one of the C clips had come off and the rod and cam lifter came loose. The lobe of the cam was hitting on the end of the exhaust valve. The cam wore a chamfer on the  end of the exhaust valve. I ended up taking off the head and replacing the exhaust valve.  LOTS of work because of a C clip. I do not know what caused the clip to fail. If it were me I would replace the c clips and make sure that they are fully engaged in the groove. My manual shows a specific orientation for the exhaust valve C Clips as well. From now on I only remove the C-Clips unless it is absolutely necessary. 

 

Below is a link to the thread about the problem I had. Another BIG thank you to Dirt Rider for giving me the confidence and information to change the exhaust valve.

 

Cam Follower Fell Off - Camheads - BMWSportTouring

 

Roger L

[lather]

Thank you for reporting your experience with the  clips. The Haynes manual I am using calls them E-clips. This manual states that  all removed clips must be replaced with new and I had decided to do that. Fortunately all my clearances were in spec and I did not touch a clip. 

 

My clearances:

Left exhaust. 35 mm both
Left intake
Upper .18 mm
Lower. 15 mm

Right exhaust 35 mm both
Right intake upper 20 mm
Right intake lower 22 mm

 

I replaced the air filter with a Mahle and the two upper sparkplugs. Being a dunce I failed to realize there were 4 sparkplugs. But the plugs and air filter I replaced looked perfectly good and the best I can determine only had 14000 miles on them. At any rate the motor sounds and feels quite happy with the attention. Probably my imagination but she feels smoother and peppyier.

 

[6speedTi]

15 hours ago, lather said:

Thank you for reporting your experience with the  clips. The Haynes manual I am using calls them E-clips. This manual states that  all removed clips must be replaced with new and I had decided to do that. Fortunately all my clearances were in spec and I did not touch a clip. 

 

My clearances:

Left exhaust. 35 mm both
Left intake
Upper .18 mm
Lower. 15 mm

Right exhaust 35 mm both
Right intake upper 20 mm
Right intake lower 22 mm

 

I replaced the air filter with a Mahle and the two upper sparkplugs. Being a dunce I failed to realize there were 4 sparkplugs. But the plugs and air filter I replaced looked perfectly good and the best I can determine only had 14000 miles on them. At any rate the motor sounds and feels quite happy with the attention. Probably my imagination but she feels smoother and peppyier.

 

The lower plugs electrodes wear out faster than the upper plugs. Depending how long you had them in you might want to replace the liwer ones.

[Lester V]

9 hours ago, 6speedTi said:

The lower plugs electrodes wear out faster than the upper plugs. Depending how long you had them in you might want to replace the liwer ones.

Please correct me if I am wrong:   I find that the upper plugs wear quicker than the lower.  Over the last 4 years I've swapped the lowers for the uppers to get the most I can during the plug change intervals.

[6speedTi]

12 hours ago, Lester V said:

Please correct me if I am wrong:   I find that the upper plugs wear quicker than the lower.  Over the last 4 years I've swapped the lowers for the uppers to get the most I can during the plug change intervals.

Funny how my plugs wear the opposite. Maybe we live on opposite sides of the equator. 🤣

[lather]

Hmmm. Anyone else want to vote on which plugs wear faster?