Michael Fajans Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 For 18,000 miles I've been starting my RT with the clutch engaged in neutral. No problems (except once at 25 degrees in Ely, Nevada when oil seemed a bit stiff on first start.) Is it important to start with the clutch disengaged? Link to comment
RFW Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 For 18,000 miles I've been starting my RT with the clutch engaged in neutral. No problems (except once at 25 degrees in Ely, Nevada when oil seemed a bit stiff on first start.) Is it important to start with the clutch disengaged? Doesn't matter to me. The bike won't start if it is in gear, unless the clutch is pulled in, so there is no safety issue. Bob. Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 For 18,000 miles I've been starting my RT with the clutch engaged in neutral. No problems (except once at 25 degrees in Ely, Nevada when oil seemed a bit stiff on first start.) Is it important to start with the clutch disengaged? When your battery is not putting out peak power, or when it's cold (i.e. battery is not putting out peak power, AND gearbox is full of molasses), pulling the clutch in while cranking can ease the load on the starter and battery; this can make the difference between a low-voltage ABS fault condition, and a normal startup. Interestingly, my car (an '03 Maxima) has an interlock that prevents you from starting the engine unless the clutch is all the way to the floor, regardless of whether it's in gear or not. Link to comment
leikam Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 I habitually start all bikes with the clutch pulled in. It feels wrong to leave that lever out. Link to comment
DEF Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 When your battery is not putting out peak power, or when it's cold (i.e. battery is not putting out peak power, AND gearbox is full of molasses), pulling the clutch in while cranking can ease the load on the starter and battery; this can make the difference between a low-voltage ABS fault condition, and a normal startup. Interestingly, my car (an '03 Maxima) has an interlock that prevents you from starting the engine unless the clutch is all the way to the floor, regardless of whether it's in gear or not. Sargent Friday is right on...correctomundo! When cold, disengaging the clutch can save 3-4 amps of current draw during a cold start with viscous transmission oil. This means your battery has to work harder, the starter relay has to handle more current, the starter motor has to work harder...on and on and on! Remember, after the engine fires, release the clutch to circulate transmission oil and aid in engaging first gear. Some new transmissions will shift better if 2nd gear is engaged cold then slip down into first gear. Oh, and add moly to your transmission. It relieves friction tremendously both cold and hot! Link to comment
jackflash Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 When your battery is not putting out peak power, or when it's cold (i.e. battery is not putting out peak power, AND gearbox is full of molasses), pulling the clutch in while cranking can ease the load on the starter and battery; this can make the difference between a low-voltage ABS fault condition, and a normal startup. Interestingly, my car (an '03 Maxima) has an interlock that prevents you from starting the engine unless the clutch is all the way to the floor, regardless of whether it's in gear or not. Sargent Friday is right on...correctomundo! When cold, disengaging the clutch can save 3-4 amps of current draw during a cold start with viscous transmission oil. This means your battery has to work harder, the starter relay has to handle more current, the starter motor has to work harder...on and on and on! Remember, after the engine fires, release the clutch to circulate transmission oil and aid in engaging first gear. Some new transmissions will shift better if 2nd gear is engaged cold then slip down into first gear. Oh, and add moly to your transmission. It relieves friction tremendously both cold and hot! What DEF said. Why strain something even slightly in some cases? Link to comment
SWB Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 Are you folks talking about all RT's or just the RT's with the hydrallic clutch (2002 and newer)? Seems like it wouldn't matter as much on a R1100RT model. I start mine in neutral with the clutch disengaged. I do experience a ABS hiccup about once every 15 to 20 starts, and have to shut the bike down and restart to get the ABS system to engage. Link to comment
Haynes Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I never worry about pulling the clutch. If it's in neutral, I hit the button with clutch out. The temperatures are never low enough around here to worry about viscosity drag on the starter. Link to comment
jackflash Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I never worry about pulling the clutch. If it's in neutral, I hit the button with clutch out. The temperatures are never low enough around here to worry about viscosity drag on the starter. There's also less friction on your whole drivetrain because the friction tends to level itself out due to gravity having less affect in the Southern Hemisphere. Thats also why tires last longer down under. My physics teacher said so..... Link to comment
DEF Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I never worry about pulling the clutch. If it's in neutral, I hit the button with clutch out. The temperatures are never low enough around here to worry about viscosity drag on the starter. There's also less friction on your whole drivetrain because the friction tends to level itself out due to gravity having less affect in the Southern Hemisphere. Thats also why tires last longer down under. My physics teacher said so..... That's only if you start your engine backwards or turn the bike upside down.....your physics teacher needs a physic..... Link to comment
SageRider Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I've been riding since before the safety switches, etc. were added to bikes. Neutral and/or starter interlock switches are not always reliable. I always start clutch in, brake on to maximize safety. Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 Are you folks talking about all RT's or just the RT's with the hydrallic clutch (2002 and newer)? Seems like it wouldn't matter as much on a R1100RT model. Why not? Hydraulic versus cable for clutch actuation is not the relevant factor; the issue is that with the clutch out, the starter is spinning not just the engine, but also the input shaft in the gearbox. Link to comment
bmwmick Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 For 18,000 miles I've been starting my RT with the clutch engaged in neutral. No problems (except once at 25 degrees in Ely, Nevada when oil seemed a bit stiff on first start.) Is it important to start with the clutch disengaged? Yes, It's easier on the battery if you start with the clutch disengaged, neutral doesn't matter. Mick Link to comment
ednap Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 For 18,000 miles I've been starting my RT with the clutch engaged in neutral. No problems (except once at 25 degrees in Ely, Nevada when oil seemed a bit stiff on first start.) Is it important to start with the clutch disengaged? I usually start my bike when I'm not on it. I use the time it takes me to put on helmet, gloves etc for the bike to warm up a bit. So for me I never pull the clutch in to start. Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 Is it important? No. Can it help when it is cold out? Yes, in the sense that the starter will not have to turn the transmission internals as well as the engine. So long as the battery is healthy it shouldm't matter at all. I do it on a routine basis but, I am old enough and have been riding long enough to remember when one pulled in the clutch and gave the bike a couple of kicks to free up the clutch plates prior to starting. In addition, I often am forced to park on various slopes and tend to leave the bike in gear when on the side stand. Link to comment
Wild Bill Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 I used to start my bike as you have suggusted... Until one day when I started it and although the Neutral light was on, it was actually in gear and the bike lurched and fell on its right side.. Now I always start and move the bike while straddling it after verifing neutral by rolling/rocking the bike with the clutch engaged.. I don't trust the light... I used to follow this proceeure on my old 650 Triumph because, it did not have a neutral lite or gear indicator and you had to tickle the carbs and kick it through a few times first.. Also on shut down, I always put the side stand down with the bike in first to kill the engine, it verifies the side stand safety switch each time ,but more importantly it makes me park it in gear all the time (for hills).. Those are my habbits... BK Link to comment
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