04 R1150RT Integral brake control wiring?

[seh750]

Does anyone have the pin-out designations for the ABS/Power Brakes/Integral brake box in my 2004 R1150RT or know where I can get my hands on that information?

 

Thanks!

[Stan Walker]

It should be in the electrical diagrams for your bike available from BMW. Probably the same as my '02 but I'm at work and they are at home. Do you have a specific question?

 

Stan

[seh750]

It should be in the electrical diagrams for your bike available from BMW. Probably the same as my '02 but I'm at work and they are at home. Do you have a specific question?

 

Stan

 

I ordered an electrical diagram and am waiting for it. But if you have the info handy, that'd be great. Specifically, I'm looking for the pins involved in powering and brake light and tail light and the signal to turn on the brake light.

 

I've bypassed the integral brakes and converted the bike to standard-style separate brakes, entirely hydraulic, but it appears that the power and signal for the brake and tail light go through the wiring for the integral brake control (didn't expect that) so I want to make a jumper for those connections.

 

Thanks!

[John in NC]

Just curious as to why you did this? Also how? I don't care for the power assist either.

[Stan Walker]

Specifically, I'm looking for the pins involved in powering and brake light and tail light and the signal to turn on the brake light.

 

Tail light - pin 6 - GRWS

Brake light - pin 4 - GRGE

Front brake switch out - pin 40 - white w/ blue stripe (WSBL)

Front brake switch in - pin 39 - white w/ yellow stripe (WSGE)

Rear brake switch out - pin 41 - yellow w/ green stripe (GEGN)

Rear brake switch in - pin 7 - yellow w/ black stripe (GESW)

 

Hope this helps.

 

Stan

[Ken H.]

Yeah, I suspect he is going to have other issues beyond just bypassing pins to make the lights work off of the switches. For example the switches are not designed to carry the current of the bulbs, just to send a signal to the controller. At the very least some relays are called for.

[Ken H.]

Just out of curiosity, have you considered the fact that the master cylinders are not designed to develop enough pressure to actually drive the pistons? Only to send a control pressure to the ABS/power boost unit.

[powerman]

does this help. see a couple of post down on this thread items 7 and 8

[Laffo IBA#34115]

I too am curious as to why you are doing this. Bypassing (disabling) the servos, ABS, linked brake circuit seems odd. I can't imagine stopping this bike without these systems working. Just backing it out of my garage without the engine on is difficult. I'm not trying to be rude but can I ask what you are gaining? These brake are the main reason I ride this same bike.

[seh750]

Before I started this project I compared the master cylinder piston diameter and the brake caliper pistons arrangement and diameters with those of an R1100RT which does not have the power pump. The master cylinder on the R1150RT is 1mm smaller in diameter but still larger than the typical Japanese standard machine. In other words it seemed plenty big enough to drive the brake calipers directly.

 

I figured the direct connection to the caliper and steel braided lines would make up for the slightly smaller master cylinder piston.

 

I've already done the hydraulic part of this project and the results were better than I expected.

[seh750]

I too am curious as to why you are doing this. Bypassing (disabling) the servos, ABS, linked brake circuit seems odd. I can't imagine stopping this bike without these systems working. Just backing it out of my garage without the engine on is difficult. I'm not trying to be rude but can I ask what you are gaining? These brake are the main reason I ride this same bike.

 

You're not being rude at all, I figured I would get lots of questions after bringing up this mod. I wasn't going to mention it at all but was hoping for help with the wiring diagram.

 

The integral brakes without the pumps going (engine off or pumps failed due to low voltage or whatever) have significantly less braking force than the master cylinder is capable of providing...I would guess without an scientific evidence probably only 10% of potential braking force is possible with the servos off but the plumbing through the integral box.

 

I'm doing this for two reasons. 1: Reliability. Hydraulic only systems are much less likely to fail than the electrical system involved in the integral brakes. I have had problems with the integral brakes. 2: Feel. The integral brakes, in my opinion, do not provide a consistent braking feel and I find myself often adjusting braking pressure to compensate not for road speed but for the actions of the servos. Simply put...I don't like the way the servos work.

[seh750]

Specifically, I'm looking for the pins involved in powering and brake light and tail light and the signal to turn on the brake light.

 

Tail light - pin 6 - GRWS

Brake light - pin 4 - GRGE

Front brake switch out - pin 40 - white w/ blue stripe (WSBL)

Front brake switch in - pin 39 - white w/ yellow stripe (WSGE)

Rear brake switch out - pin 41 - yellow w/ green stripe (GEGN)

Rear brake switch in - pin 7 - yellow w/ black stripe (GESW)

 

Hope this helps.

 

Stan

 

This is very helpful, thank you.

[seh750]

does this help. see a couple of post down on this thread items 7 and 8

 

Also good information. I'll have to digest a little more tomorrow when I'm more awake. Thanks for the link, that looks like what I was looking for.

[270]

Stephen,

 

I say good for you for undertaking this project! I think it's been tried before by at least one member here and I think another over at ADVRider. I like my integrated brakes, but when the warranty is gone and an expensive part of the system fails, I can assure you that I'll be doing the same-It can't be that hard. I've plumbed cars before with complete brake systems from master cylinder to wheel circuits. I've got to believe that fitting a standard hydraulic system can't be that tough.

 

I'd hate losing abs, but what did we all do before abs?

 

Would you mind posting the rough outline of what you did/how you did it and the results? If you'd prefer not to, I understand.

 

Good on ya for jumping into it!

[seh750]

Stephen,

 

I say good for you for undertaking this project! I think it's been tried before by at least one member here and I think another over at ADVRider. I like my integrated brakes, but when the warranty is gone and an expensive part of the system fails, I can assure you that I'll be doing the same-It can't be that hard. I've plumbed cars before with complete brake systems from master cylinder to wheel circuits. I've got to believe that fitting a standard hydraulic system can't be that tough.

 

I'd hate losing abs, but what did we all do before abs?

 

Would you mind posting the rough outline of what you did/how you did it and the results? If you'd prefer not to, I understand.

 

Good on ya for jumping into it!

 

 

I did a short outline of the hydraulic part in an early post. Once I get the wiring sorted and can do a full-speed test run I post more about the process and the results. So far I've only done a quick run, less than a mile, in the neighborhood since I don't have brake lights.

[seh750]

With the help of members of this board and the wiring diagram that appeared via FedEx today, I've basically figured out the wiring. I was a little surprised to learn, however, that the switches at the brake lever and pedal return 12V when not activated and 0V when activated. I thought they would be the other way around. I know how to use a SPDT relay to make the relay "turn on" when the signal is off, but I haven't done multiple trigger sources. I'm thinking I basically wire two SPDT relays in parallel...same power source, but one triggered by the brake pedal switch and the other by the brake lever switch...and combine the power outlet leads to power the brake light. Oh electrical geniuses on the board, am I forgetting something?

 

The tail light was a snap as there is already switched power present at the integral brake plug.

 

Any thoughts on the brake light wiring?

 

Thanks!

[Boffin]

The switches probably connect the wires to ground - this is common practice - and so the wire to the switch will float up to battery voltage when the switch is open na dbe pulled down to ground when closed. To drive a relay from the switch take battery + to one side of the coil and connect the other to the wire to both of the switches. When either is opperated the relay will trip.

 

Andy