servo brake bleed for 2006 RT

[SK_in_AB]

My RT has 50k km and I have used a dealer for my brake servicing.  Retired now and with more time and less $ I was going to do the circuit bleed this year myself.  I understand the basics of bleeding the separate circuits and I have searched the is forum and found instructions that seem thorough and with great pics. (mama hoons, and the Dana Hager write up.  Both seem to be for 1150s with servo brakes 2002-2004 models.  My question is whether there is any difference in the circuits on my '06 bike.  I know they went non servo in 2008 and I'm assuming the system I have is the same as the late model 1150s.  Can anyone confirm that before I start this job..... or are there instructions out there for '06 models

 

thanks

 

SK

[Hati]

Yes, they are the same brakes, at least as far as the number of circuits and the procedure is concerned. I also have an '06 RT and used the very same document to bleed the brakes. The only additional thing I did was use a GS-911 and run the brake test program with it.

 

Make sure you get lots of brake fluid ready. Down this way they sell 0.5 litre or 4 litre containers, which is what I got. I used well over a litre the first time around (bled an '03 CLC as well) and a bit less on the RT the second time. Some people will say to dump your brake fluid when you finished due to its hygroscopic properties. That is not necessary if you only leave the container open for the few seconds it takes to pour fluid out and then put the cap back on it. That way there is next to no chance for the brake fluid to be exposed long enough to ambient air to suck up some moisture. This is how I use my 4 litre container and there are no issues at all.

 

I had a slight issue with the electrical connection though. I had it disconnected as suggested, otherwise getting to some of the bleed screws is near impossible. When I took the bike out for a ride next, I got brake faults twice, and left with residual breaking until I restarted the bike. I then used cable ties to secure the electrical connector properly and had no more faults since. This was over a year ago now.

 

Bemmer Boneyard stocks the funnel with the adapter on it.

 

Take your time and follow the instruction to the letter, you will be fine.

[SK_in_AB]

Thanks Hati.  Going to collect up the supplies and get started on it while the garage is warm, but before the snow is gone and I want to ride rather than wrench 

[JDJ]

Hati,

 

I also have an '06 RT which I purchased last year, so it is due for a brake bleed/flush.  When in the bleed/flush process did you use the GS-911 brake test program?

 

It seems people are able to correctly bleed/flush the brakes without a GS-911, and I don't have a GS-911 yet, so I'm trying to determine if it's something I should get before doing the bleed/flush.

 

Thanks.

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, JDJ said:

Haiti,

 

I also have an '06 RT which I purchased last year, so it is due for a brake bleed/flush.  When in the bleed/flush process did you use the GS-911 brake test program?

 

It seems people are able to correctly bleed/flush the brakes without a GS-911, and I don't have a GS-911 yet, so I'm trying to determine if it's something I should get before doing the bleed/flush.

 

Thanks.

Morning JDJ

 

You are replying to a 6 month old posting so it might take Haiti a while to find this.

 

Until he finds this old post__ You do not need a GS-911 to do a brake bleed on your 06, for years a large number of 1200RT riders have just bled the brakes (control side & wheel side) on the early 1200 I-ABS brakes  without a GS-911 & without any issues. 

 

 

 

[Skywagon]

Hey DR....question on this.  I don't own an 06 but when you say control side and wheel side...Is that anything like the old whizzy brake procedure or is it more conventional...open, pump, close.  No special pump sequence order?  Just curious.

[TSConver]

1 minute ago, Skywagon said:

Hey DR....question on this.  I don't own an 06 but when you say control side and wheel side...Is that anything like the old whizzy brake procedure or is it more conventional...open, pump, close.  No special pump sequence order?  Just curious.

 

Control side it the bleeder on the master cylinder up at the handlebars.  Then the brake side is at the calipers.  But yeah it is just pump and purge or vacuum bleed.

[Skywagon]

Thanks TS...wasn't sure.  Although my whizzy brakes never gave me any crap, they were a pain in the arse to bleed correctly.

 

Hows the new ride treating you.

[dirtrider]

42 minutes ago, Skywagon said:

Hey DR....question on this.  I don't own an 06 but when you say control side and wheel side...Is that anything like the old whizzy brake procedure or is it more conventional...open, pump, close.  No special pump sequence order?  Just curious.

Afternoon David

 

Yes, basically just like the 1150 I-ABS system.

 

The control side is  the input side & that is the front master cylinder or rear pedal master cylinder input INTO the ABS module & those are bled at the bleeder nipples on top of the ABS pump module in a specific order.  (It has nothing to do with the bleeder on the master cylinder up at the handlebars) 

The control circuits are bled using the old pump & open/close the bleeder screws on the ABS module in a specific order.

 

The wheel side is  the power servo (Wizzy) side & those are bled at the calipers,  the fluid supply for the wheel side circuits is in the capped reservoirs inside the ABS  module itself.  The wheel side is bled using the (key-on) power servos & lever or pedal apply with only opening the bleed screws (no pumping the lever or  pedal required for the wheel circuits).   The wheel side is critical to not pumping so much fluid out with the power servos that it drains the internal reservoirs (the internal module reservoirs must be checked & kept full)      

 

[Skywagon]

Thanks DR....The bike is long gone but I still have the documentation and pictures for doing my 1150RT 2005.  Pain in the but versus the wethead.  I still have my old funnel and about 20 stoppers I got from McMasters.

[JDJ]

Skywagon,

 

Do you use a stopper in place of an OEM BMW fluid reservoir cap to seal a funnel on the internal fluid reservoirs?

 

I want to put together the cap/funnel contraption but haven't yet found a stand alone OEM cap online (and beemerboneyard is sold out of their premade cap/funnel item) so I'm looking for alternative ways to get a funnel sealed to the reservoir.

 

 

[Skywagon]

Yes I do. I’ll send a picture and link later tonight. I’m away from home right now

[Skywagon]

I bought a whole sack of them below.  I don't remember the size.  I'll check the garage tomorrow and see if I have the package.  You stuff the plug in the hole, and put the funnel in the center hole of the plug.  I suspect you can find a rubber stopper plug like this at any hardware store and not have to buy a sack full.

 

I don't have the sequence for bleeding a 2006.  It was really important on the 1150 to bleed in accordance with the sequence.  Perhaps someone here can forward you the procedure.  It's not straight forward.

 

stopper plugs | McMaster-Carr

[JDJ]

Thanks Skywagon. 

 

I've got the bleed procedure so I just need to assemble the materials.

[JDJ]

Does anybody know what the I.D. of the internal fluid reservoir fill port is?

[dirtrider]

34 minutes ago, JDJ said:

Does anybody know what the I.D. of the internal fluid reservoir fill port is?

Afternoon JDJ

 

I don't know what the exact inside diameter is but can say a #2  tapered rubber stopper fits perfectly with a tight seal. Just drill a hole in the center of  a  #2 rubber stopper (available from Lowes) then stick your funnel or fluid bottle tightly into that center hole & you are good-to-go.   

 

[JDJ]

Thanks dirtrider!

[JDJ]

Guys,

 

I'm in the process of doing my first brake bleed/flush on my 2006 R1200RT and have hit a snag.   Attached is the procedure I am following.  I am up to step 6 of the rear control circuit part (page 15).  When I press on the foot brake lever and crack open a bleed point, little to no fluid comes out.  I've tried all 3 bleed points and got the same condition will all of them.  The procedure does not say to turn on the ignition so I did the procedure with the ignition off.  Does it need to be on?  Any other thoughts or ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

JDJ

service_abs3.pdf

[dirtrider]

34 minutes ago, JDJ said:

Guys,

 

I'm in the process of doing my first brake bleed/flush on my 2006 R1200RT and have hit a snag.   Attached is the procedure I am following.  I am up to step 6 of the rear control circuit part (page 15).  When I press on the foot brake lever and crack open a bleed point, little to no fluid comes out.  I've tried all 3 bleed points and got the same condition will all of them.  The procedure does not say to turn on the ignition so I did the procedure with the ignition off.  Does it need to be on?  Any other thoughts or ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

JDJ

service_abs3.pdf 1.34 MB · 1 download

Evening JDJ

 

I won't open an unknown attachment so I don't know what sequence you are using but see picture below for rear control circuit sequence. 

 

Key shouldn't be on for the control circuits but should be on for the wheel circuits. 

 

Make sure that you keep the rear master cylinder feed reservoir full of fluid (the reservoirs in the ABS module are ONLY for the wheel circuits).  

 

There is a black rubber bladder type thing under the cover on the rear fluid reservoir, make darn sure that you remove that so the fluid goes under it & not on top of it. (just make sure the actual reservoir has fluid in it)  

 

 

 

 

[JDJ]

dirtrider,

 

Thanks for the response.

 

Your photo shows the bleed ports I was referring to.  The black rubber bladder was attached to the reservoir cap and I had the cap off and the reservoir was full.