Handlebar Conversion on R1100RS

[Ralph1212]

Hi Everyone,

 

In the quest to make my 1994 R1100RS as comfortable as possible for my long torso and 6' 3" frame, I have been using Bar Back risers.  These just barely accomplish the goal.  I ordered the ABM handlebar conversion kit from Spiegler Performance Parts which includes an LSL handlebar.  There are no instructions included with the kit and the literature that is in box is all in German.  (I used Google Translate; it's mostly just reference info.).  SPP was not able to provide me with any instructions from ABM or LSL.

Assuming this project can be done by someone with a Haynes R1100 service manual, the requisite tools, and mechanical know-how, are there any gotchas I need to watch for?

 

Thanks and Best Regards,

Ralph

 

 

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, Ralph1212 said:

Hi Everyone,

 

In the quest to make my 1994 R1100RS as comfortable as possible for my long torso and 6' 3" frame, I have been using Bar Back risers.  These just barely accomplish the goal.  I ordered the ABM handlebar conversion kit from Spiegler Performance Parts which includes an LSL handlebar.  There are no instructions included with the kit and the literature that is in box is all in German.  (I used Google Translate; it's mostly just reference info.).  SPP was not able to provide me with any instructions from ABM or LSL.

Assuming this project can be done by someone with a Haynes R1100 service manual, the requisite tools, and mechanical know-how, are there any gotchas I need to watch for?

 

Thanks and Best Regards,

Ralph

 

Afternoon  Ralph

 

Nothing real complicated but keep in mind that ANY part of that job that is not fully understood, or attempted without full knowledge of disassembly or re-assembly could be a problem.

 

If your motorcycle has heated grips that will complicate it a bit as just getting the wire terminals out of the heated grip pig-tail connectors can be a challenge.

 

Common sense prevails so don't force things. 

 

If you get to something that your don't understand then STOP & ask the appropriate questions on how to proceed. 

[Ralph1212]

Any suggestions for removing the handlebar grips without destroying them in the process?

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, Ralph1212 said:

Any suggestions for removing the handlebar grips without destroying them in the process?

Afternoon  Ralph

 

The R/H twist grip side should slide right off once the switch assembly is partially disassembled and the  weight & cable is removed, or with the entire switch assembly if you go that way. (don't try to remove the heated grip from it's plastic collar).

 

On the L/H side, peel the rubber back just a little (the inner flared end) there should be 2 small screws just under the end of the rubber that hold the grip collar on. 

 

Heated grips will need the connectors removed from the end of the pig-tails before they will pull through.  

 

[Ralph1212]

Hi.  Due to an ongoing list of higher priority tasks,  I ended up putting off this project until I had an offset 21mm box wrench and an Allen key socket wrench for the ball joint stud.  (See photo.) Unfortunately, while counter-holding the stud and attempting to loosen the nut, the Allen key shaft twisted and snapped off.  

 

I was not able to loosen the nut from the stud.  Everything looks and feels OK on the bike.  Do I need to be concerned about the bearing due tothe force I subjected before the tool snapped?

 

 At this point I'm thinking I'll have to bite the bullet and get soaked at a BMW dealer to get the work done.  Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Regards,

Ralph

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Ralph1212 said:

Hi.  Due to an ongoing list of higher priority tasks,  I ended up putting off this project until I had an offset 21mm box wrench and an Allen key socket wrench for the ball joint stud.  (See photo.) Unfortunately, while counter-holding the stud and attempting to loosen the nut, the Allen key shaft twisted and snapped off.  

 

I was not able to loosen the nut from the stud.  Everything looks and feels OK on the bike.  Do I need to be concerned about the bearing due tothe force I subjected before the tool snapped?

 

 At this point I'm thinking I'll have to bite the bullet and get soaked at a BMW dealer to get the work done.  Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Regards,

Ralph

 

Afternoon Ralph1212

 

Did you heat the nut to 120°c (248°f) before trying to remove it? If not then it will probably break those allen key's.

 

I doubt that you hurt anything in trying to remove if the nut didn't move on the stud.  

[Ralph1212]

Hi dirtrider,

 

No, I did not heat the nut.  Did you think a hot air gun would be sufficient to heat it to that temperature or would I need a torch?

 

-R.

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, Ralph1212 said:

Hi dirtrider,

 

No, I did not heat the nut.  Did you think a hot air gun would be sufficient to heat it to that temperature or would I need a torch?

 

-R.

Morning  Ralph1212

 

It depends on the hot air gun, if a commercial version that produces enough concentrated heat to get the nut to 120°c (248°f) then it should work OK. Worth a try as all you need to do is get it hot enough for the thread locker to release.