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Bike quit in the rain today


David_R

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First time it's ever failed me. At least it was close to home.

’99 RT 65k miles. Drove home in the rain yesterday. Then this morning while doing 70 on the highway in a pouring rain, the engine just quit as if the kill switch was thrown. Engine cranks fine, seems to be getting fuel, won't fire.

 

The same thing happened about 3k miles ago (although it wasn’t raining that day but I had been out in the rain the day before). Except that time I was able to restart it.

 

Given the number of times I’ve read HES threads on this board, is the best course to first check the wiring to the hall sensor?

 

Thanks for your suggestions,

David

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First time it's ever failed me. At least it was close to home.

’99 RT 65k miles. Drove home in the rain yesterday. Then this morning while doing 70 on the highway in a pouring rain, the engine just quit as if the kill switch was thrown. Engine cranks fine, seems to be getting fuel, won't fire.

 

The same thing happened about 3k miles ago (although it wasn’t raining that day but I had been out in the rain the day before). Except that time I was able to restart it.

 

Given the number of times I’ve read HES threads on this board, is the best course to first check the wiring to the hall sensor?

 

Thanks for your suggestions,

David

 

David,

Yes, Check the HES wiring first (right under the upper clamp on the HES plate) BUT be ready to leave the bike where it is when you do this 'checking'. What happens, usually, is the insulation on the wires falls away like little hard chips when you disturb them. Either have another HES ready to install or have the bike out of the way. smile.gif

 

Mick

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I am using the /oihead_hall_sensors/ pdf by Dana Hager as a reference. He calls for testing the HES wiring by connecting a LED light to the sensors. Is there any reason why a voltmeter can’t be used instead? The uninterrupted sensors read 13v. Interrupted, the top sensor reads about 10 volts but I can get it down to almost zero by manipulating the wiring harness. The lower sensor reads 2-3 volts but will go up to 10 when the harness is twisted.

 

Am I correct in assuming that the sensors should read 0 volts when interrupted? That they don't indicates a short.

 

/Dave

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I am using the /oihead_hall_sensors/ pdf by Dana Hager as a reference. He calls for testing the HES wiring by connecting a LED light to the sensors. Is there any reason why a voltmeter can’t be used instead? The uninterrupted sensors read 13v. Interrupted, the top sensor reads about 10 volts but I can get it down to almost zero by manipulating the wiring harness. The lower sensor reads 2-3 volts but will go up to 10 when the harness is twisted.

 

Am I correct in assuming that the sensors should read 0 volts when interrupted? That they don't indicates a short.

 

/Dave

 

Dave,

The fact you can change the voltage by 'wiggling' the cable tells me your insulation is 'dust'. smile.gif

 

Mick

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No, hopefully I'll have time to tonight. However, I did check the coil with an ohm meter. The secondary wiring gave a reading of 7k ohms. The specs say it should be 13k. I don't know how to interpret that reading – does it mean the coil is shot? I’m guessing I should replace it.

 

/Dave

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No, hopefully I'll have time to tonight. However, I did check the coil with an ohm meter. The secondary wiring gave a reading of 7k ohms. The specs say it should be 13k. I don't know how to interpret that reading – does it mean the coil is shot? I’m guessing I should replace it.

 

/Dave

 

Nope,

The Primary should measure 0.5 Ohms and the Secondary is 7.5K Ohms. The earlier coils measured 13K Ohms like is called for in the Manual but the coils were 'improved'.

 

Mick

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Mick - Thanks for clearing that up. I opened up the harness on the HES and the insulation is discolored and cracked. I'll email you regarding the rewired one that you have.

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