Jump to content
IGNORED

Need Steps to Change Brake Pads on 2002 1150RT


SAMSAR

Recommended Posts

I'm trying to find any instructions to take me through a front and back brake pad change for a 2002 11150RT. I've tried every search I can think of but no luck.

 

By the by... With the help of many on this awesome board I've been able to learn and do changes to tires, oil, electrical, and added every toy possible on my own. You've heard it before, but thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge and helping the newbies to learn to fish for themselves.

thumbsup.gif

Paul

Link to comment

Have you bled the system already? If not I would definitely start there.

 

Here's the bleed procedure for the wheels circuits.

 

Here's the bleed procedure for the control circuits.

 

And here's for the clutch while you're at it! grin.gif

 

If you've already bled the system recently then you obviously already have the shop manual from www.motobins.co.uk already. wink.gif A simple pad replacement is pretty straight forward: remove the calipers, remove the circlip and the screw holding the pads in place and the pads will drop out. Notice how the anti-rattle clip is oriented as you remove the old pads and replace it the same way.

 

Remember, you'll need to compress the pistons back into the calipers--all the way--to make room for the new pads. Be aware that when you do this--if you've had the brakes serviced since the pads were new--there will be more fluid in the reservoir under the tank and when you compress the pistons this excess fluid will flow out the vent/drain hose and onto the ground (behind the right footpeg).

 

I usually coordinate the pad swaps with the annual bleed proceedure to eliminate this mess and will even pull a worn set of pads a bit early while I'm bleeding the wheel circuits (EVERY year! tongue.gifgrin.gif ) and then have them to swap out for more worn pads later to buy me time until the next annual service interval (less mess).

Link to comment

Thanks Jamie, the shop manual (Haynes)has taken a while to ship but, is on it's way this week.

 

I'll be looking foward to those additional bleed projects soon. In the meantime, any tricks to getting the caliper pistons push all the way back if I don't want to bleed yet? (There was a major service done in the fall.)

 

Also, while inspecting the front brake pads, three of the four pads are wearing evenly but one (inside front-right)is significantly more worn. Any ideas why or how to correct it?

 

Thanks again!

Link to comment
. . . the shop manual (Haynes) has taken a while to ship but, is on it's way this week.
Well, the Haynes is nice for illustrating and explaining steps more simply yet thoroughly. Certainly it's better than the shop manual there, which assumes you've already been factory trained and they're just reminding you of things you're supposed to already know. But while admitting I haven't seen the Haynes for the 1150, I didn't think they covered the full EVO brake bleed procedure--for that I think you still need the shop manual.

 

. . . any tricks to getting the caliper pistons push all the way back if I don't want to bleed yet? (There was a major service done in the fall.)
I use my set of T-Handled allen wrenches. Remove the calipers and without twisting the hose too much start with the 5mm sliding it in between from the bottom and apply slow, steady lateral pressure. You don't have to push hard, but wait for the fluid to move back up the lines. Gradually move up to the 6mm, 8mm, and (with worn pads) finally the 10mm. Since you're not bleeding the system, just pushing them out enough so that the new pads will clear the rotors for reinstallation, you probably do not need to push them all the way out flush. You don't want to empty the reservoir by pushing any more fluid out the vent than you need to. Remember to plan for catching the fluid that might leak out the vent by the right footpeg. Think of the fluid as being "consumed" by the pistons. After you bed the pads back in the reservoir level will drop slightly (as the pistons fill) and then as the new pads wear the BF level in the reservoir will continue to drop even further. If it drops enough to expose the servo pump intake (especially if you drop the bike on the right side) you will draw air into the system compromising it's efficiency and potentially causing brake problems.

 

Also, while inspecting the front brake pads, three of the four pads are wearing evenly but one (inside front-right) is significantly more worn. Any ideas why or how to correct it?
Hmmmmmm . . . especially since it is only one of the four pads and it is one on the INSIDE, I would at first suspect a slightly bent rotor--like what might happen changing a tire and flexing on the rotor--this could cause a bump towards the inside which might rub slightly on the inside pad shortening its life.

 

I would first clean everything well with brake cleaner, paying special attention to the pistons on the inside with the worn pad. Crud caked on the piston could conceivably keep the pad from retracting enough to aggravate any variation in runout. Then I would put the bike on the center stand, weight the rear (to get the front off the ground) and spin the front wheel checking for rubbing (if the calipers are still in place), or better check runout on the rotor to verify it is not bent.

 

Sorry for the long explanation, but . . . you asked! grin.gif

 

Good luck!

Link to comment
Stan Walker

and then as the new pads wear the BF level in the reservoir will continue to drop even further. If it drops enough to expose the servo pump intake

 

Unlikely to happen in only one year before next brake fluid flush, and even if it did he should get a "low fluid" warning before sucking air, or at least I would hope they designed it to work that way. I haven't tested this myself, so I can't say for sure that the low fluid stuff works.

 

I can say that installing new pads and pushing the excess fluid out the vent and onto the floor works just fine.... smile.gif

 

And it does stop dripping in a few days.

 

Stan

Link to comment
and then as the new pads wear the BF level in the reservoir will continue to drop even further. If it drops enough to expose the servo pump intake

 

Unlikely to happen in only one year before next brake fluid flush, and even if it did he should get a "low fluid" warning before sucking air, or at least I would hope they designed it to work that way. I haven't tested this myself, so I can't say for sure that the low fluid stuff works.

Yes, Stan, true, but as the OP has an '02 RT he has a higher liklihood of sucking air--especially in the dropping the bike scenario. I believe the reservoirs do have a "low fluid" sensor that will report a fault if they sense a low BF level during the initial startup initialization sequence. I believe this is the wire that plugs into the top of the two reservoirs (front wheel and rear wheel) that you can unplug to get the larger wiring connector out of the way to facilitate access to the control circuit bleed screws. You can see them to the left of the reservoir caps in the photo below--the front one plugs into a yellow socket.

879401-L.jpg

 

 

If you look at the front wheel circuit reservoir on the later EVO units (I think all the ones that take the newer model of Mini-Stan with the longer threaded plug) you'll see that BMW has made the front reservoir larger (taller) so that more fluid remains over the servo pump intake as the eight pistons at the two front calipers fill with BF as the pads wear down. Looking at this pic again I need to correct my previous statement: it would be a drop on the LEFT side which would cause the most potential to suck air as the intake is located right below the cap which is on the right hand side of the reservoir tank. Imagine if you have just enough fluid to keep the low BF level sensor happy so you get the normal start-up sequence, yet then manage to drop the bike to the left exposing the pump intake to the airspace in the reservoir.

 

If you pushed the pistons ALL the way in to replace the pads with new ones, as you then bed the pads back in against the now slightly thinner rotors and the fluid drops a bit (remember there are eight pistons to fill if even a small amount), you would already be potentially starting at less than the "max" fill line. People have also reported seeing BF on the ground (draining out the vent line) after dropping their bike (presumably on the right side), and you can see from the pic above how the BF might get into the vent line. Combine this with a warped rotor that causes one pad to wear inordinately fast ("consuming" more BF from the reservoir) and you can see the potential.

 

Now granted, all this seems like the "perfect storm" that's likely never to happen, but I'm a bit anal about our brakes and would rather sleep well knowing my wife is not going to go riding right off a cliff somewhere in Colorado (where they seem to eschew guard rails--especially near 1000 foot drop-offs! eek.gif ) because these fancy EVO brakes failed! tongue.gif

 

I also go so far as to leave some brake fluid showing in the Mini-Stan until I bed the current pads I'm using back in and I've seen as much as 30ccs or more be consumed in this way (again re-using the old pads).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can you tell I'm at the "slow" station today? dopeslap.gifgrin.gif

Link to comment

Thanks for the piston trick and the thought on a potential bent rotor... I'll check that rotor tomorrow once I get the new Conti Road Attacks and EBC brake pads mounted up.

Link to comment

Generally, changing pads is pretty darn obvious and simple. Have you had a close look at them? Usually, you can see how to do it just by looking at how they are constructed.

 

There is no reason to bleed the brakes, as others have suggested. They worked just fine before, so why in heavens name try to bleed them to remove air that isn't there?

 

If you haven't replaced the brake fluid in a couple of years, then that is a different story, and you should do this. But that has nothing at all to do with pad replacement.

 

Bob.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...