Brake handlebar lever won't return

[Andre1150]

A little background.. I had a clutch failure in LA traffic which wasn't fun, and during the rebuild, I replaced the slave cylinder and fluid. During the rebuild, as I was putting the rear brakes back together, the adjustment arm was loose as I put on the aluminum side footpeg part, and I fiddled with it a bit to get it to pop back on the switch. No problem. I realize that the back brake adjustment is a fiddly thing and any slight misadjustment can cause problems. Indeed, now if I rest my food on the brake pedal (right side) i can hear the ABS whine and the rear light goes on, so I know my adjustment is off. (and I'm not sure how exactly to fix that)  However, it's not there that's the problem, it's farther up the braking system to the integrated hand lever on the handlebars.

When I pull in the handlebar lever, the abs comes one, the front brakes start to catch, and the brake light comes on, but letting go of the lever gives no return. I have to physically push the brake lever back out to stop the brakes from grabbing, which turns off the abs whine, and the brake light goes out.  If I forget to push the lever out when I stop for the day or at a light, the brakes continue to engage, the abs whines, and the brake lights come on. This is ok when riding, but during start up, it causes the self test to fail, and the ABS system to turn off (reset).  you have to drive away without using the brakes to get the red fault/ABS triangle light to turn off (flashing) however, when pulling away the flashing light turns off, but the bottom light remains lit.

How do I get the brake lever to return to off without having to manually push it out with the back of my right hand fingers??

[Doctare]

I recall having this issue once and jamming an spring under the leaver to get it to pop back until I rebuild the master cylinder.

 

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, Andre1150 said:

A little background.. I had a clutch failure in LA traffic which wasn't fun, and during the rebuild, I replaced the slave cylinder and fluid. During the rebuild, as I was putting the rear brakes back together, the adjustment arm was loose as I put on the aluminum side footpeg part, and I fiddled with it a bit to get it to pop back on the switch. No problem. I realize that the back brake adjustment is a fiddly thing and any slight misadjustment can cause problems. Indeed, now if I rest my food on the brake pedal (right side) i can hear the ABS whine and the rear light goes on, so I know my adjustment is off. (and I'm not sure how exactly to fix that)  However, it's not there that's the problem, it's farther up the braking system to the integrated hand lever on the handlebars.

When I pull in the handlebar lever, the abs comes one, the front brakes start to catch, and the brake light comes on, but letting go of the lever gives no return. I have to physically push the brake lever back out to stop the brakes from grabbing, which turns off the abs whine, and the brake light goes out.  If I forget to push the lever out when I stop for the day or at a light, the brakes continue to engage, the abs whines, and the brake lights come on. This is ok when riding, but during start up, it causes the self test to fail, and the ABS system to turn off (reset).  you have to drive away without using the brakes to get the red fault/ABS triangle light to turn off (flashing) however, when pulling away the flashing light turns off, but the bottom light remains lit.

How do I get the brake lever to return to off without having to manually push it out with the back of my right hand fingers??

Morning   Andre1150

 

You sort of need to know what is causing the hang-up to proceed. The two usual causes of what you are seeing is either a sticky lever pivot due to gunk buildup, or lack of lube, or pivot bolt too tight.   (this is the place to start looking).

 

The other place is the master cylinder piston sticking  in it's bore. This could be due to buildup of gunk & dirt in the cylinder bore outboard of the piston, or corrosion in the piston bore, or ???. The repair for this is to disassemble the front master cylinder & either rebuild it or possibly just remove the piston, clean the bore & piston the re-assemble. 

 

Bottom line-- something is sticking so you need to find that area & repair it, or replace what is causing it.

[Andre1150]

Thanks DR, I always appreciate your responses to my posts, even months and months of time between. I'm going to disassemble the brake MC and see if I can determine what's what. I noticed that Beemerboneyard and practically everyone else doesn't sell repair kits for the brake master assembly anymore, do you have any reliable sources for that?

Otherwise, I have a parts bike I'll pull off the MC and swap it. (per the other post, I do have some Euromotoelectrics coils I'll try as well)

 

 

[BrianM]

I have a mc kit I bought for a 97 RT. If it will work for you, you can have it for shipping. It is from BBY.

 

Looked in Realoem, doesn't appear that my part will work in an 1150.

[Andre1150]

4 minutes ago, BrianM said:

I have a mc kit I bought for a 97 RT. If it will work for you, you can have it for shipping. It is from BBY.

 

that might work. I wonder if it's the same part number as a 2004 RT.

 

[BrianM]

23 minutes ago, Andre1150 said:

 

Looked in realoem, looks like the 1100 and 1150 had a different MC.

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Andre1150 said:

Thanks DR, I always appreciate your responses to my posts, even months and months of time between. I'm going to disassemble the brake MC and see if I can determine what's what. I noticed that Beemerboneyard and practically everyone else doesn't sell repair kits for the brake master assembly anymore, do you have any reliable sources for that?

Otherwise, I have a parts bike I'll pull off the MC and swap it. (per the other post, I do have some Euromotoelectrics coils I'll try as well)

 

 

Morning   Andre1150

 

BeemerBoneyard used to sell a M/C kit for the 1150 but it has been out of stock for a while. (maybe give BBY a call & see what they suggest)

 

BMW did service the M/C kit --  P/N -  32727658464     SERVICE KIT, PISTON, ANODIZED - D=16MM. (just under $120.00)

 

You might be able to remove your piston then clean the bore,  piston, & rubber cups then re-install (yours seems to "not be leaking" so possibly just clean up then re-install. 

[Michaelr11]

10 hours ago, BrianM said:

have a mc kit I bought for a 97 RT. If it will work for you, you can have it for shipping. It is

Brian M.  PM sent.