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Is it just me?


Balibeemer

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I've owned various Beemers but for the life of me, I can't get my R1150RT onto it's main stand. I know all about the procedure (both stand feet on the ground, ball of my foot on the main stand, lift up & back etc.) I'm 6'2" and weigh 191lbs. and 70 yrs old. What am I doing wrong?

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not sure what you might be doing but here is how I did it on my 1150 and same on my 1200.

 

Neutral.  right foot on stand, turn bars to the left with left hand, right hand grab the grab handle, put all your weight on the stand while pulling back with both hands.  The only time I really have a problem is when I don't have both rungs of the center stand touching before is start pulling back.  I'm not quite as tall as you but weigh the same.

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Yes, pushing down with your foot while pulling up with your right arm should do it. Is your bike lowered or have any suspension changes or woes?

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8 minutes ago, Rinkydink said:

Yes, pushing down with your foot while pulling up with your right arm should do it. Is your bike lowered or have any suspension changes or woes?

Not to my knowledge. How will suspension changes affect the bike (apart from the obvious) I guess that if the suspension has been lowered, then it's further to lift the bike?

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47 minutes ago, Skywagon said:

The only time I really have a problem is when I don't have both rungs of the center stand touching before is start pulling back. 

Yes, make sure both center stand legs are on the ground. I make sure both legs are on the ground by stepping on the center stand peg relatively lightly and can feel when both legs are on the ground. In fact, you can hold the bike upright with just a little pressure on the stand peg with both legs on the ground and no hands. You'll never get it on the center stand if you only one center stand leg is one the ground. Sometimes I fail to get it onto the stand so let it back down but can then use the momentum help me on the next try. I hold the clutch lever with my left hand and the lift lever with my right.

 

I think BMW could have done a better job making the bike a bit easier to get it on the center stand. Here's a good Chris Harris video showing how to put it on the center stand while on a lift. Its the same technique on the ground. 

 

Best

Miguel

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When you get the bike up on the stand, how high is the rear wheel?  My R1100S is shockingly easy to put on the centerstand, especially compared to the Aprilia Futura I was riding when I got the BMW.  But my bike's geometry & stand barely even reduce the load on the rear tire when I lift it up.  I have to put a board under the centerstand if I want the wheel to spin freely -- and when I do that, the BMW is much tougher to lift, too.

 

Anyway, what I'm saying is, if your centerstand is lifting your rear wheel a few inches (or more!) off the ground, it's gonna be a lot harder to lift.

 

(I don't know whether my bike has had suspension or geometry changes.  It has lowered pegs, and I can flat-foot it easily (I'm 5'6") so maybe it's lowered, or maybe it's just the narrow-ish Sargent seat.)

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Here's a little trick.  Find a small piece of 3/4" or 5/8" or even 1/2" plywood and roll the bike forward so the back tire rests on the plywood and up she goes.

The thicker the plywood the easier it is to place on the center stand.

 

I used to do this with my 2010 FJR which is about maybe 100lbs heavier than your R1150RT then I discovered that in 2013 Yamaha shortened the center stand  on the FJR by 5/8" so for 100 bucks I swapped out the center stand and put my plywood to other uses.

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Balibeemer your RT May have been lowered.  If so it is very difficult to get them up on the stand unless the stand is cut down a little.    As has been said, if your rear wheel is more than 1 to 1.5 inches off the floor when on the stand you can bet it’s been lowered.    IDK about the geometry of cutting the stand down, you must be sure it will clear everything when up.   

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To all of you wonderful people; Thanks I

'll try the plywood trick first and if that doesn't work I'll be looking at the rear suspension.

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7 hours ago, spacewrench said:

When you get the bike up on the stand, how high is the rear wheel?  My R1100S is shockingly easy to put on the centerstand, especially compared to the Aprilia Futura I was riding when I got the BMW.  But my bike's geometry & stand barely even reduce the load on the rear tire when I lift it up.  I have to put a board under the centerstand if I want the wheel to spin freely -- and when I do that, the BMW is much tougher to lift, too.

 

You probably have a 365 mm torque arm from a GS instead of the stock 385 mm arm. Guys do that to shorten the wheelbase on the S to make it turn in quicker. The short torque arm makes it super-easy to get on the centerstand.

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2 hours ago, Jim Moore said:

You probably have a 365 mm torque arm from a GS instead of the stock 385 mm arm. Guys do that to shorten the wheelbase on the S to make it turn in quicker. The short torque arm makes it super-easy to get on the centerstand.

Even with the stock length arm, I think the S is the easiest bike I’ve ever had to get on the stand - I didn’t find my 1100RT difficult, but certainly not as easy as the S. My GSA when loaded and having no lift handle is another story...

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I owned an '04RT and I agree with the OP.  It was hardest for me to balance the bike when going off the center stand.  Wasn't too bad going onto the stand at least for me but could have been easier for sure.  I always thought the R1150RT was a bit top heavy.  I can see why with stuff like that windshield height adjust heavy as an automotive starting motor mounted up high under the front plastic.  

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No, it's not you.  When I lowered my 2014 Wethead, there was no way I could get it up on the centerstand unless I raised the bike as high as it would go (Hard, Luggage, Two-Up) and had some help .  I ended up getting both the sidestand and centerstand shortened.  Plywood under the rear wheel is a great suggestion...wish I'd thought of that.

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4 hours ago, JamesW said:

I owned an '04RT and I agree with the OP.  It was hardest for me to balance the bike when going off the center stand.  Wasn't too bad going onto the stand at least for me but could have been easier for sure.  I always thought the R1150RT was a bit top heavy.  I can see why with stuff like that windshield height adjust heavy as an automotive starting motor mounted up high under the front plastic.  

The trick I use when coming off the center stand is...

 

Hands on both grips while covering the front brake. When coming off the stand turn ever so slightly to the right forcing the bike to lean towards you and stop bike with front brake. This removes the fear of bike falling away from you. Just be ready for the bike’s weight to shift towards you.
 

Practice with a spotter if you are that uneasy. 

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4 hours ago, JamesW said:

I owned an '04RT and I agree with the OP.  It was hardest for me to balance the bike when going off the center stand.  Wasn't too bad going onto the stand at least for me but could have been easier for sure.  I always thought the R1150RT was a bit top heavy.  I can see why with stuff like that windshield height adjust heavy as an automotive starting motor mounted up high under the front plastic.  

Afternoon James 

 

I usually just stand straddling, or sit on those, 1150RT's then just one good  forward rock using my weight & legs then off the stand they snap. This way I have total control of the motorcycle.

 

If the engine is running & in gear (clutch lever held in) then I just ride away as I rock it off the center stand.

 

If I am not on the bike I usually use the same method as Rinkydink & turn it slightly to the right as is comes off the center stand to counter the bike falling away from me as most  1150RT's are slightly weight biased to the right.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Rinkydink said:

The trick I use when coming off the center stand is...

 

Hands on both grips while covering the front brake. When coming off the stand turn ever so slightly to the right forcing the bike to lean towards you and stop bike with front brake. This removes the fear of bike falling away from you. Just be ready for the bike’s weight to shift towards you.
 

Practice with a spotter if you are that uneasy. 

My 'spotter 'is all of 80 lbs soaking wet! If it fell on her it would probably squash her like a bug. Indonesians are not known for their physical robustness! But I'm betting some good advice here, Thanks!

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Others have been giving the trick of being sure both feet of the stand are on the ground and putting weight on the foot tab.  I would only emphasize that I really load the foot tab with all my weight while pulling up and back on the lift arm. I literally step up on the foot tab and then you won't need to try to lift the bike with your right arm as much as guide it up and back.

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On 12/22/2020 at 12:14 PM, spacewrench said:

When you get the bike up on the stand, how high is the rear wheel?  My R1100S is shockingly easy to put on the centerstand, especially compared to the Aprilia Futura I was riding when I got the BMW.  But my bike's geometry & stand barely even reduce the load on the rear tire when I lift it up.  I have to put a board under the centerstand if I want the wheel to spin freely -- and when I do that, the BMW is much tougher to lift, too.

 

Anyway, what I'm saying is, if your centerstand is lifting your rear wheel a few inches (or more!) off the ground, it's gonna be a lot harder to lift.

 

(I don't know whether my bike has had suspension or geometry changes.  It has lowered pegs, and I can flat-foot it easily (I'm 5'6") so maybe it's lowered, or maybe it's just the narrow-ish Sargent seat.)

I just measured the height from the ground to the back wheel - it’s 3”.

Now the question is, how do I lower the wheel? 

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44 minutes ago, Balibeemer said:

I just measured the height from the ground to the back wheel - it’s 3”.

Now the question is, how do I lower the wheel? 

Morning  Balibeemer

 

You either install a longer rear shock or cut a little off of the center stand legs then re-weld the feet back on. 

 

You should probably start by verifying what is causing the high rear wheel,  even a lower front shock can raise the rear wheel.

 

Rear wheel being 3" off the ground isn't a problem in itself, it's how high the motorcycle is when sitting on it's wheels as that controls the center stand working angle as it first touches the ground. The more severe that angle then the  harder it is to get the motorcycle up on the center stand. 

 

If you are happy with how the motorcycle sits & rides now then leave the suspension alone & use the plywood mentioned above.

 

You need (even-height) plywood under both the front & rear wheels, start with 3/4" thick under both front & rear wheels (nothing under the center stand). THEN see if you can get it on the center stand (also see how high the rear wheel is THEN off of the rear plywood).

 

If you still have the rear wheel above the plywood then add another 1/4" to the front & rear 3/4" plywood & try again.

 

Keep adding EQUAL plywood layers at front & rear  until the rear wheel is about 1" above the  rear plywood stack  when on the center stand. 

 

You should find that the thicker the plywood gets the easier it is to get the motorcycle up on the center stand. 

 

You could go as far as having the rear wheel just come up far enough to clear the rear plywood stack but that is getting into iffy territory as then using the center stand on an uneven surface could allow the rear wheel to be ON the ground & THAT allows the rear spring to take weight off of the center stand therefore allowing a strong side wind to actually blow the motorcycle over. If you make it too low now then new of different brand tires could allow the rear wheel to be on the ground  while on center stand. 

 

Once you get the perfect plywood stack worked out you can measure that plywood stack height then take the center stand off & take it to a welder & have the center stand cut down that much. 

 

 

 

 

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Hmmmm, plywood under both wheels?  That would work but I had no issue with just plywood under the rear wheel.  Kind of funny but my neighbor bought a generation 3 FJR (2015) after I found my 2010 gen2 and he couldn't get his bike on the center stand at all so he would call me and ask if I could come over and place his bike on the CS.  First time I did this for him I couldn't believe how easy it was just no comparison.  Finally I just had to figure out what the difference was so I went over to his house with tape measure in hand and figured out the CS was 5/8" shorter.  Then I consulted the FJR parts list on, I think, Revzilla and noted two different part numbers so I ordered one for the gen3 and my troubles with my bike were over.  I doubt if you would be so lucky with your BMW but who knows.  I do know my '93 R1100RSL is far easier to place on the CS than was my (departed) '04 R1150RT but probably other differences between the two like weight.  Anyway the key to solving your issue is the height of the CS.  Me, I would just go with a piece of plywood under the rear wheel, keep it simple.  Oh, and if you tried shortening the CS you might create other issues when you retract to stow the CS.  Plywood is your friend. You could even stash a piece somewhere on the bike and take it with you to use at say a motel when traveling for example.

 

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Also Balibeemer, you are using the lift handle on your bike when placing it on center stand? I had an 04 1150 and it had one. I don’t know if all 1150s had them. 

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35 minutes ago, Balibeemer said:

Yes, I use it

Good.(I was looking to see if was going to be any mention of that handle that the 1150RT have).

 

Dont just hold onto that, but stand and push down on the centerstand tang AND pull up (and back some) on that handle. 

Think of it as applying a force inbetween the centerstand and that handle.

 

If you are doing it facing the bike, you may find that your knee is bent and back is bent, ... so , also try it facing forward and keeping back straight.

And as others have said, having both feet of the centerstand down is important, I think is important so dont fall over.

 

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12 hours ago, JamesW said:

Hmmmm, plywood under both wheels?  That would work but I had no issue with just plywood under the rear wheel.  Kind of funny but my neighbor bought a generation 3 FJR (2015) after I found my 2010 gen2 and he couldn't get his bike on the center stand at all so he would call me and ask if I could come over and place his bike on the CS.  First time I did this for him I couldn't believe how easy it was just no comparison.  Finally I just had to figure out what the difference was so I went over to his house with tape measure in hand and figured out the CS was 5/8" shorter.  Then I consulted the FJR parts list on, I think, Revzilla and noted two different part numbers so I ordered one for the gen3 and my troubles with my bike were over.  I doubt if you would be so lucky with your BMW but who knows.  I do know my '93 R1100RSL is far easier to place on the CS than was my (departed) '04 R1150RT but probably other differences between the two like weight.  Anyway the key to solving your issue is the height of the CS.  Me, I would just go with a piece of plywood under the rear wheel, keep it simple.  Oh, and if you tried shortening the CS you might create other issues when you retract to stow the CS.  Plywood is your friend. You could even stash a piece somewhere on the bike and take it with you to use at say a motel when traveling for example.

 

Morning James

 

See last sentence in my posting above______  Once you get the perfect plywood stack worked out you can measure that plywood stack height then take the center stand off & take it to a welder & have the center stand cut down that much.  

 

The plywood is needed under both front & rear wheels to simulate even ground under the motorcycle. If plywood is used ONLY under the rear wheel that will give an erroneous center stand height measurement & lead to cutting too much off of the  center stand.  

 

 

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On 12/22/2020 at 12:17 AM, JamesW said:

Here's a little trick.  Find a small piece of 3/4" or 5/8" or even 1/2" plywood and roll the bike forward so the back tire rests on the plywood and up she goes.

The thicker the plywood the easier it is to place on the center stand.

 

My F700GS has low suspension, and heaving it on the center stand requires much more effort than my R1100RT (which weighed about 200 pounds more) ever needed. I used a piece of leftover 5/4 x 6 lumber, tapering one end. Now it just floats up on the centerstand. The biggest problem with a lowered suspension is that the angle of the centerstand is steeper, so you have less leverage for the initial lift.

 

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I guess it's whatever works for you.  Myself, I found just one piece of plywood under the rear wheel did the trick and it was easier to deal with than two pieces in constant use.  That said if your aim is to shorten the center stand itself then yes two pieces would be best to determine exactly how much metal to remove from the stand. I had never intended to go so far as to actually shorten the stand on my departed R1150RT.  As a side note I have now and then kind of missed my RT, kind of.  But not enough to find another one and certainly not a new one not in this lifetime.

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  • 7 months later...

Problem solved! I can use the main stand without the plywood trick. Ichanged the rear shock (Which was aftermarket - no markings) for a Hagen shock. No more farting or making funny faces! The previous owner was obviously vertically challenged.

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Or you could have left the short shock and leave a radio blaring in the garage to cover the fart noise and blamed the contaminated catalytic converter for the funky smell.  On second thought, replacing the shock is the better way to go.

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